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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Zot
post Jun 29 2015, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(ywkwy @ Jun 26 2015, 04:42 PM)
I'm planning to implement home automation using z-wave protocol, probably using vera edge as the controller. Not much device using Malaysia Z-wave frequency, so probably using EU frequency. What I plan to do:
1. security: integrate with NAS, IP camera and Alarm system. Compatibility is important for the communications of the devices. Thus, I'm getting Asustor NAS and Hikvision IP camera(with motion detect, alarm IO and audio IO) which is compatible with the Asustor ADM. Asustor will send email and SMS(need subscription) once motion detected from IP camera. eg: motion detected on the window area (before someone go near the window even before he touch the window). Alarm IO of the IP camera will connect the Z-wave binary sensor which connected to the Vera Edge. Then, Vera Edge trigger the outdoor flood light to deter the potential burglar. In second stage when he insist to break in from the window, alarm came in when trigger the sensor on the window. Of course all these will be under monitor remotely, looking through ip camera from mobile phone once the first stage triggered (received email & sms). PIR sensors will be installed indoor too, including the attic in case the first line of defend breached.

2. Automation: Since the alarm is connected to Vera Edge, PIR from the alarm can be used to automate the switching on or off the lighting during the alarm disarmed/armed stay mode. (eg: walk to kitchen, movement detected, switch light on. After no motion of period of time, switch off light to save energy.)
Another thing I plan to get is the z-wave smoke detector so I will be notified when something is burning in the house. Not sure if there is smoke detector + air quality monitor that include detection of gas leakage, if there is such product is even better can alert when gas leak from kitchen.

Besides the above, normal stuff like lighting switch and some wall plug switch will be z-wave enabled too. Zwave IR remote is a nice touch up to control gadget that is IR controlled too. As for the lock, I will use the traditional lock. Because I'm kind of a paranoid just in case the system is being hacked or breached  tongue.gif Therefore, any remotely accessed content such as IP cam feed will be tunnel through VPN from remote to home. No port will open/forward, just the VPN. Guest WiFi will be VLAN separated so visitor will not have direct contact with the system.

All the above will be  DIY including the alarm because need to use compatible alarm system but still need to figure out where to get all the components tongue.gif
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I suggest you use something more readily available here for home automation.

You can use Orvibo and it allied with Zigbee technology. Many device can be bought here from http://www.m3shoppe.my/goods/goods_toDetai...tml?goodId=2903 and from other local suppliers also.

The program to control is freely available on Google Play. If you are programmer as well, there is website on reverse engineering the control software to make it less proprietary https://stikonas.eu/wordpress/2015/02/24/re...ibo-s20-socket/

Zot
post Sep 4 2015, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(N73 @ Sep 3 2015, 07:29 PM)
Since there are plenty of different brand of wireless Smart Home system in the market such as Orvibo, LifeSmart, Broadlink and etc. Which brand is the most popular, reliable, more functioning and future expansion?
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I dunno which is more popular. Hard to predict what will happen. Just like the Betamax and VHS tape. Even though the Betamax was small and more compact and gave same recording length, it was VHS that prevailed.

As long as it is using standard technology, I would say it is good already. It means anyone can make the product, just like USB. The Orvibo is using Zigbee, while LifeSmart and Broadlink is using WiFi. So, all on standard platform. Maybe the control signal is different from one brand to another just like TV remote control. All use IR but Sony remote control cannot be used on Panasonic laugh.gif

I guess just go for brand that is easily available in Malaysia wink.gif
Zot
post Feb 7 2017, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Feb 7 2017, 12:21 PM)
Next is pairing it with the EWeLink App. Press the Pairing button on the Sonoff.
You select the Sonoff to pair with

Go to your smartphone's WIFI setting and select the ITEADS......device

Then it will start pairing -

Btw ozak, I connected it to my Wifi Guest Network which has limited excess (can only go to Internet) and it works.  nod.gif

You can control the Sonoff device in three ways - Countdown Timer, Timer Schedule, and Scene
Countdown timer - you set how many days, hours or minutes and it will countdown to either On or Off your device

Timer Schedule - this one you set it to go On or Off and certain dates, days  and time - yes you can skip certain days

Scene - you can set either a Smart Scene or Non-Smart Scene. Smart Scene is like you got a temperature sensor and you can set the sensor to send a signal to the Sonoff. Non-Smart Scene - I think it uses IFTTT commands - I am not sure, I havent try this out yet
One con - I cant control a group of things - For example I have two Sonoff and it allows me to group this two devices but I cant control it like one click to turn On or Off this entire group of devices.
As you can see here, you can only toggle one device not a group

Overall I am happy with it, anyway its darn cheap at only $5 each, what more can you expect?
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For $5, it is damn cheap. thumbup.gif
Zot
post Jun 29 2017, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 29 2017, 08:47 AM)
My IT expert friend told me, consumer type modem router are not stable. You need to reset once a while.

You want good wan will cost RM20k. Which is for industrial use.
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Well not true. Even commercial grade WAP router also do hung up once in a while. Even cellphone transmission tower also auto-reboot on heavy load. My cheap router from TM, I can never recall when I need to reboot it.

The expensive wireless router and home router use the same wireless chipset. The expensive one normally have more RAM and faster processor. What makes it more different is mostly the software side. More configurations and settings. It is more flexible because it is needed for different environment.
Zot
post Aug 16 2017, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(alucard89 @ Aug 15 2017, 11:28 PM)
I'm not sure since I also just plug in neutral wire (the capacitor is included with switch)
So far all the wifi requires neutral for installation, and that capacitor probably acts as some kind bridge I guess from neutral to live wire. I'm no electrician so I assumed that anyway

For any RF switch, they normally just require live wire connection.
Wifi switch is still the better option though, you get on/off status and can also be controlled with voice assistant like alexa/google assistant. That's what sonoff t1 special since it offers both, I don't see any other brand yet doing this.
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Do you know the value of the capacitor they used to bypass at the light socket there?
Zot
post Aug 16 2017, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(alucard89 @ Aug 16 2017, 11:07 AM)
I'll check that again once I'm home.
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The capacitor acts like a bypass wire. So, the current flows through it depends on the capacitor value. The current is just enough to power the touch switch circuitry in this case. In the US the neutral wire is looped at the wall switch but in Malaysia, it neutral wire is lopped on the ceiling at the lamp socket sad.gif

I heard that the problem with the touch switch, though they said require no neutral, is not 100% guaranteed will work. It may work intermittently ff there is too much leakage current. I've never installed one though. Did you hear anyone having problem with the touch switch not functioning properly after installation?
Zot
post Dec 20 2017, 02:44 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 20 2017, 11:57 AM)
Ok thanks 🙏🏻
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Just came across this Smartthings Hub. This is the way I understand it.

The hub can communicate with devices using many kind of protocol such as zigbee, z-wave, IP, and other wireless protocol. Note zigbee, z-wave, etc are different in communication protocol though operate in same frequency, thus cannot talk to each other.

So, if you have devices controlled by a mix of these protocols, you can use the Smartthings Hub to control. Just need to used the Smartthings Hub apps to control them.

The z-wave and zigbee is using the ISM band which is basically the 900MHz, 2.4GHz and 5GHz. These are the Industrial, Scientific and Medical bands recognized worldwide. These band actually under utilized. So, they make it as open bands that require no license to operate but must adhere to certain regulation based on each country.

However, few country like China use 784 MHz for its zigbee. So, beware that it might not compatible with zigbee device that does not operate at this frequency.
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Dec 28 2017, 09:25 AM)
Any reference how to use capacitor?
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The capacitor is connected between the L and N at the location where your load is (i.e. at lamp location for example). It is to provide power to the switch electronics since in off position, there suppose to be no power to the switch.
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Dec 28 2017, 09:43 AM)
Im using broadlink TC2 but very troublesome...thinking to switch to another brand like xiaomi aquara
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I've seen many Broadlink problems mentioned in YouTube but what is yours?
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Dec 28 2017, 09:48 AM)
Any reference to the capacitor type/value? limitation?
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I thought it is provided with the switch? So, depends on switch brand I suppose, though probably not much different.

Most of the time the switch just work because of voltage leakage in house wiring. So, sometimes the switch just cannot work. That is why the capacitor is provided.

The voltage rating would be at least 400V but not sure about the capacitor value. Probably around 0.47uF to 1uF? Anyone remember on top of one's head?
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(meLi @ Dec 28 2017, 10:21 AM)
Mostly my broadlink all cable become live. So my light intermittent on althought switch turn off. Any suggestion brand ?
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Do you install provided capacitor?
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Dec 28 2017, 09:48 AM)
Any reference to the capacitor type/value? limitation?
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QUOTE(aneip @ Dec 28 2017, 11:11 AM)
I got few capacitor from RF wall switch. That's one not required  Neutral pin. I think it's for use with led bulb. Never needed for me. 1st time  I read can use capacitor to replace Neutral wire. Maybe will try with my sonoff later. Cant decided yet where to put the switch.
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As shown by diagram by alucard89, the capacitor is is 1uF 560V (strange voltage) as I can see from the picture, written as 105 (means 1000000pF)

Yes mentioned for low power bulb 15W and below load needed
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Dec 28 2017, 04:57 PM)
Regarding the capacitor, do we talking about the same thing? I read alucard89 said you can use capacitor instead of neutral wire in the switch that required both Live and neutral wire like Sonoff T1?

But the diagram is showing different thing.. I understand the diagram to allow the use of low wattage bulb. This is not the same thing, replacing neutral wire with capacitor right?

This is sonoff T1.

user posted image
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I switch need N wire, then it needs it. Capacitor is just to leak power through the wire but very low power. Your switch need more power than the capacitor can supply. So, most likely it will not work

Anyway, switches with L and N wires are more reliable and will work in any condition regardless load condition. Unfortunately, unlike in the USA, our wiring do not require the N wire to be loop at switch level but just ceiling sad.gif

This post has been edited by Zot: Dec 28 2017, 05:20 PM
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(ular_king @ Dec 28 2017, 05:31 PM)
After reading thru the thread there seems to be no reliable RF/WiFI Wall switch.  Basically i just wanna have a switch that i can use timer and remote on/off on it . Any recommendations?
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Any switch with L and N wire would be reliable like Sonoff
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(alucard89 @ Dec 28 2017, 05:59 PM)
Is there like tutorial/video on how to properly connect the capacitor?
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Never seen one. Your diagram is clear already. Red is Live wire. Blue is N wire, which is lopped in ceiling. The Yellow wire is just dead wire, It is not connected to L because switch is off and not connected to N directly because it is through bulb (bulb is like a resistor).

So, when the switch is connected, it completes the circuit. However, the current through the switch is very low, just enough to power the switch circuitry, the bulb will not light up. Low power bulb has higher resistance, thus limit the supply to the switch, unable to provide enough power to enable switch circuitry to work properly. This is why the capacitor is connected to bypass the bulb so that will allow more current flow to the switch through the capacitor.

Basically the switch (with no N line) will have load limit down to certain min power to certain max power to work properly. Inductive load like traditional florescent bulb may not work due to inductive ballast nature which will oppose the capacitive nature of the switch (capacitive touch switch). You have to replace with electronic ballast to make it work if the switch doesn't work.
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 06:25 PM

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QUOTE(ular_king @ Dec 28 2017, 06:23 PM)
So have to open up and check? So if I find 3 wires it should have neutral correct?
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Only 3 in socket have Neutral wire. Switches does not have one. If you see many wires it is just because the L wire is looped in the switch + the wire to the bulb (Yellow one in the diagram previously)
Zot
post Dec 28 2017, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(ular_king @ Dec 28 2017, 06:33 PM)
So that means definitely have to ask electrician to add neutral if wanna use switch like sonoff.... damn additional costs again....
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Another option is to use sonoff module installed near the light. Got RF and WiFi type. This way no modification needed. The switch on the wall is normal switch but need to switch on all the time. The module on the ceiling will act like a remote switch

Install something like this on ceiling


Zot
post Dec 29 2017, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(ular_king @ Dec 29 2017, 10:49 AM)
Yeah i've consider this as well, hiding this module inside the plaster ceiling.  Not sure Wifi has any problem reaching it if inside plaster ceiling. Plus if module broken, need to find a way to replace it without breaking the plaster ceiling
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Plaster ceiling will not block signal but no access. Can just camouflage it in decoration or if you have down light, can place it somewhere near
Zot
post Dec 29 2017, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(M & D @ Dec 29 2017, 03:28 PM)
can explain more... don't know how to differentiate, ... blink.gif
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IP can control using internet or phone directly. RF can directly controlled by its dedicated remote only. Else you have to get other device to interface between the normal RF (433 MHz normally) and WiFi (additional cost and less flexibility)

God thing about RF is that it cannot be hacked remotely over Internet biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Zot: Dec 29 2017, 03:33 PM
Zot
post Jan 3 2018, 08:31 AM

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QUOTE(alexander3133 @ Jan 3 2018, 08:27 AM)
Guys, any of the power consumption monitor device that you would recommend?
Prefer socket type, like Sonoff S31, but UK plug, would like to monitor refrigerator power consumption.
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You just google socket power meter and you find many to choose from as low as around RM20

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