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 [V27] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(justnits @ Apr 27 2015, 12:32 PM)
ahh, you are tactile user.
i'm not too sure about mx clears d, and i didn't use krytox's grease before, so i've no idea about that haha!

i have mx clears on my ergo dox, but i'm not sure if the housing has issue or because i didn't lube the stem, it sometimes can be..."stucky".
i need to find some time to test out different lube on my mx clears.
reason why i didn't lube it is because i want to get maximum tactile from the mx clears.
*
Is it stucky because of the spring not enough force to push it back up? From what I know, the springs have to be a certain weight, can't remember what's the weight . Otherwise the mx clear will have problem rebouncing.
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(justnits @ Apr 27 2015, 05:33 PM)
you are correct about the spring having to be of a certain weight to be able to push the stem and keycaps right back up.
but i used 62g spring for it, the spring force should be able to sprung the stem back up without any issue.
but because the mx clear i have was harvested from an old cherry board, i noticed quite a lot of the switch housing has dents on it, indicating that something heavy has been placed on top of the board. probably the boards are stacked up on each other before it was shipped to me.

i suspect that because of that, the housing might have internal damage to it, as in the "copper leaf" thing inside the switch, might have been bended more than it should, thus affecting the pressing and depressing of the switch.

probably the easiest way is to change housing altogether sweat.gif
*
Oh, then maybe get some spare housing to swap with the problematic housings?

Anyway, is Varmilo brand same company with leopold? I know that varmilo do have keyboards with gateron switch but i can only find them on massdrop, can't find the varmilo with gateron switch on taobao. There's only varmilo with cherry switch. Good thing about this varmilo i guess is that they use pbt keycaps, thats why it cost about rm350-400.
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(cloud8992 @ Apr 27 2015, 06:13 PM)
bro the cost not that high

you can get pcb,stabs,gateron switches for Rm223
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r....ucket=19#detail

than case like poker 2 plastic for rm23
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1...bd-f139b354dd69

plate for rm68
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1...&id=41523448564

since you dont need sticker ,led ,lube
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Wow, thanks alot. I've tried searching in taobao, but guess i don't know the keywords to find what i want. tongue.gif

May I know what is 阳极板套装? and the rm223 is it including leds?
Also, the seller said that it is up to us whether to use a plate or not. Does that mean I can actually use the switch on the PCB straight away? then it's considered as pcb mount?
What's the main difference between pcb mount and plate mount again?I'm assuming that there is a difference in the plate mount being more sturdy compared to pcb mount.

ok, after some googling, i found out that's the case. Solder the switch without plate= pcb mount. Main difference being plate mount is more sturdy.

So is it recommended to go with plate or without plate? Considering that I don't actually bottom out that often.



This post has been edited by ck.chunkeat: Apr 27 2015, 06:47 PM
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(cloud8992 @ Apr 27 2015, 06:39 PM)
it does not comes with led so you have to purchase if you want .
as for plate is very important feels a lot better having them.
*
I actually think it includes led.

QUOTE(joonwei23 @ Apr 27 2015, 06:41 PM)
If you don't bottom out that much, plateless is fine.
tbh, I think using linear switches w/o plate feels better not that I've tried it yet.
and if you're into swapping out switches, pcb mount allows you to swap w/o desoldering, just add sip sockets if you would want to change leds as well.
*
Yea, I notice that the seller mention that he prefer to use cherry mx red with pcb mount as the combination will give a very unique soft feel. An even better setup that he uses for gaming is mx black with mx red as left shift and ctrl pcb mounted.

Ok, So i've just googled and looked at the seller's information.
Correct me if I'm wrong, PCB, stabilizer, gateron switches ,led and the plate =RM223.
PCB,stabilizer ,led and gateron switch, RM160.
PCB+stabilizer, it is RM109.
PCB only, RM102.
Plate only is Rm68

Clone poker 2 case is Rm23, ori poker 2 plastic case is rm45, aluminium case is Rm200.
That is a very interesting price. biggrin.gif


If I were to get without plate, I might be able to get it for less than Rm 200 including case.

Not sure whether it comes with diodes tho, as I don't know what is diode in chinese. tongue.gif
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(cloud8992 @ Apr 27 2015, 06:58 PM)
diode and resistor is build in
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OH! now that you mention, I just noticed that he used surface mount resistors and diodes. No wonder I can't see them, they were so small. sweat.gif
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(cloud8992 @ Apr 27 2015, 07:29 PM)
here is a finish build by dadudeneverabides
https://imgur.com/a/WfmHW
*
Thanks for the link. smile.gif
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(justordinary @ Apr 27 2015, 09:27 PM)
Mmm if you're not gonna lube, sticker etc, i don't see any point in spending way more for a custom board. If i'm on a tight budget i'd get a cheap stock china board with gaterons instead.

*Just saw cloud posted the poker 2 casing alternative. You'll definitely save alot going with that case. But then again, don't forget you need a set of keycaps. Pok3r comes with aluminium casing and pbt keycaps you might want to consider that.
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Yes but I can't really find and don't know how to find cheap stock keyboards with gateron switches.
Yea, the poker 2 that cloud posted will only cost less than rm200. And yes, I have a spare set of keycaps laying around.

pok3r is interesting but it is out of my budget for now as I just want a simple to use mech keyboard which is portable and I can bring it with me when I go elsewhere. I come back home every weekend and it's tiring to keep bringing my keyboard to and fro every week. Not to mention when I want to camp uni whole day to do my coursework, I wouldn't want to bring my tkl there. sweat.gif

Besides, I have the choice to lube/sticker in the future if gateron is really my cup of tea. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by ck.chunkeat: Apr 27 2015, 10:08 PM
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ Apr 27 2015, 10:03 PM)
Poker 2 vs Custom:

- No custom switches.
- Boring LED choices, with normal rounded LEDs too.
- No custom layout.
- If getting better caps (duh!) wasted one set of PBT caps.
- [not for pok3r] Normal plastic case which is bad for MX Blues sound travel.
*
Hmm, a few good points you bring up there, sifu. smile.gif
Custom layout is definitely welcomed, and poker 2 kinda defeats my purpose of trying out gaterons too. tongue.gif

Leds aren't for me. I can live without it.

If i really want to get a alu case, I can always buy it and change it since the plastic case is only rm20+.

Btw, what's your comment about linear switches on pcb mounting? Are there any special feel from it?
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 27 2015, 10:21 PM

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QUOTE(justordinary @ Apr 27 2015, 10:16 PM)
Tried gaterons 35g on pcb mount itself vs on a acrylic plate mount. Couldn't tell the differences in feel or perhaps i didn't go through extensive typing to tell the difference. But i'll definitely get a metal plate for linear switch if i could. The metal plate sound resonance is too good to miss out.  cool.gif
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Hmm, hmm.gif .
Guess I would have to try that out for myself. I don't know how does a metal plate resonance sound sounds like. biggrin.gif

Or maybe there is a difference between acrylic plate and metal plate. Anyway, I don't even know whether my current keyboard uses a metal plate or a plastic plate. sweat.gif
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 28 2015, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(DarkSilver @ Apr 27 2015, 11:39 PM)
A simple test is, Filco MJ2 vs Ducky Shine 3/4.
Filco MJ2 is using a metal plate while Ducky is using a metal plate too but lighter(got mixed with other materials to reduce cost I think).
The Filco MJ2 sounds much louder(Pak pak pak) when the keys are bottoming out compared to Ducky Shine 3/4(puff puff puff).
*
Good example, I will try it out when I get the chance. Then I guess my current keyboard might be the same as the ducky shine as it's also a ducky and the sound is more puff than pak to me. tongue.gif
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 28 2015, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ Apr 27 2015, 11:01 PM)
Some koreans like it, but personally I prefer purity/control over something as finicky as a PCB mount, especially something as light as 35g gaterons.

I personally massively dislike PCB mount as they have less stability IMO, but you can give it a shot if you want...
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yea, I think it is up to individual in the end. Everyone have their preference.
I just searched a few threads on GH and those who like PCB mount generally prefers the not so solid or natural feel. They can't really explain it but after testing the same switches on a poker 2 and a filco. The ones who like pcb mount can't go back to filco, so they say. The flex makes it a very nice experience for them. But I worry about the solder joints though. As solder joints generally don't like flex.

Guess I'll most probably be saving up funds and get the parts without the plate first. If I happen to not like the pcb moutn feel and decide to have the plate for stability later on, I will just have to resolder the switches and buy the plate.
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 28 2015, 02:09 AM

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QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ Apr 28 2015, 12:40 AM)
Don't do retarded stuff. Much harder to desolder and resolder. The "flex" leads to inconsistent keypresses all around and is only suitable for glide typists anyway. Not good for gaming at all.

However, it is your money that you're wasting, so, up to you I guess.
*
Is it retarded to desolder switches? That's new to me. sweat.gif I thought to change a switch or open the housing from a normal plate mounted switch, you have to desolder the switch? or am I missing something here or misunderstood your sentence?

Anyway, I know hard pounding on the key will lead to more flexing therefore the keyboard will probably will not be suitable for gaming, but I have no intention of gaming with it yet. For now the purpose is for normal typing and portability as well as a cheap investment to test out gateron switches. smile.gif

This post has been edited by ck.chunkeat: Apr 28 2015, 02:18 AM
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 28 2015, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(cloud8992 @ Apr 28 2015, 03:03 AM)
retarded as in not using plating. as i said plating is very important most keybaord having at least a plate even cheap keyboard.
its up to you since you are the one paying for it we can only give advice.
*
Thanks for your opinion, appreciate it, will think about whether i want to go with plate or plateless.


QUOTE(CAL V @ Apr 28 2015, 03:39 AM)
I just did a search around, and I couldn't find many results of 60% mass produced keyboard with Gaterons. The closest thing is probably Nano 75, the Noppoo one usually use Cherry and other clones. If you just search "Nano 75 Gaterons", something will pop up in those Chinese forum explaining about it.

Like you said, cheap investment, then don't think aluminum case already, will add a lot more to the cost. I think plate mount is the way to do it now, only very less keyboards are pcb mounted nowadays, except you really want to find it on GH. Just do a basic build with the Gateron switch you want to try, go with plate mount option, plastic case, no LED, and maybe a set of nicer (thicker) key caps and never regret your portable kit. Aluminum case also will make it much heavier, and you might not be happy bringing it around. Just my 2cents, I'm still a noob, just trying to help you make a choice.
*
Thanks for helping to search, will check out the nano 75 gaterons. biggrin.gif and I will probably not get a alu case first. If I decide at a later time that I wanted to go for alu case, then I'll get it at a later date.smile.gif


QUOTE(CAL V @ Apr 28 2015, 03:51 AM)
Please refer the first post for suggestions. If you're more to typing, go with either tactile switches or maybe Topre, linears need some time to get used to, and "generally" more preferred for gaming, not entirely. MX blue is most popular if not mistaken(it's everywhere), but it is an clicky switch(first post explained that), and it's pretty noisy to be used in a quiet environment let's say office.

Then the other option will be MX brown, many prefer this over the blue because it's tactile, not clicky, less noisy, but still have that satisfying bump when pressed down. Topre I haven't try before, just imagine it as a common rubber dome switch on steroids, some user will say Topre > all, but it all comes down to self preference.

Best is go try in a shop that have display unit, I find that a switch tester will not give you the whole image of typing on a keyboard, rather just to show you the difference in feel. Hope some other sifu can give more input.
*
I already have a linear switch board, thats why I wanted to try out a gateron linear. smile.gif


QUOTE(justnits @ Apr 28 2015, 09:08 AM)
i think the retarded stuff he meant was soldering without plate and then desolder and resolder with a plate, because considering that each time you desolder, there's a chance for you to damage the solder pad on the pcb and probably feels that there's a high chance you will desolder them to install plate.
so if you still want to go ahead to do without plate, i suggest that you don't solder in the led first.

but personally, i'd suggest to use plate, even an acrylic ones. i don't like the idea of dust and hair and other particles falling down straight to my pcb. with a plate, at least there's a layer of cover for your pcb. that's just my personal thoughts lah but do take note that i didn't try plateless keyboard before, so my suggestions may be biased towards using plate tongue.gif
*
Good that, thanks for clarifying what he meant. biggrin.gif Advice noted on the led too. biggrin.gif

I personally also feel like using plate, but then since some of the people mentioned that linear switches with pcb mount is good. Ivan from GH seems to like it alot. There are a few others who even wanted to look for pcb mount board to replace their filco. That piqued my interest in it. But then it's very hard to get a pcb mount board nowadays.

QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ Apr 28 2015, 09:31 AM)
Thanks guys for explaining what is retarded.

I was afraid that I have to bring out the kiddies dictionary.

Some people are stubborn, and some people are just stupid. Worse case when both combine.
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To be honest, no offense was taken when you use the word retarded on me. I was curious more than anything.Hence, my reply asking to clarify more. So if I sound offended, please don't think that I am offended cause I am not. biggrin.gif
I purely wanted to learn and know more about mech keyboard. icon_rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(DarkSilver @ Apr 28 2015, 11:48 AM)
Go Taobao and grab yourself a plate, RM 30-60 should able to do it already.
*
Yea, the plate should be around rm50. Will think about it deeply before pulling the trigger.
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 29 2015, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(ragecat @ Apr 29 2015, 09:29 AM)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r....bucket=2#detail

What is satellite axis and G-axis as per google translate?
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QUOTE(justnits @ Apr 29 2015, 09:39 AM)
ragecat, first of all, i haven't ship out your stuff yet, this week is busy week at work for me, couldn't manage to go out to post office to post them  sad.gif

also to answer your question, satellite axis is referring to cherry stabilizers.

g-axis, i'm not so sure d, probably it means gateron switch? need some taobao masters to answer.
*
From my understanding, the G轴 means gateron switch.
ck.chunkeat
post Apr 29 2015, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(faridr @ Apr 29 2015, 12:36 AM)
ck.chunkeat I'm using pcb mount 60%, my advice if you ever decide on using pcb mount, you'll need a proper solid case that can provide support for pcb to prevent flex. Something like in the spoiler below. Original poker 2 case will work too, but sound quite loud as every vibration from bottoming out the keys will be transferred to the plastic case.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Also, when changing keycaps on pcb mount, you have to be really really really really careful, especially for tight keycaps.
*
Thanks for the advice, will take note.
Still havent decide whether to go with pcb mount or plate mount yet. pcb mount cause wana try it out, plate mount cause want that extra stability and prevent flex since I will probably be bringing this in and out.

What's the case that you showed in the spoiler? It looks like an aluminium case to me.

And what is your opinion on pcb mount? Any comment on it compared to plate mount?
ck.chunkeat
post May 4 2015, 01:41 AM

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I know all along that the recommended lube for the switch is krytox, but I just came across this.

http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboard...d_lubes/ceefaxh

Elitekeyboard says that krytox isn't that good for switches. Is he wrong about this?

Any comments?


ck.chunkeat
post May 5 2015, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(joonwei23 @ May 5 2015, 05:55 PM)
I can only afford one set atm  tongue.gif . I've already put some money aside for a B.Face and the GMK Beige which I don't know when will it start. Hopefully not anytime soon. AAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
Hue, i guna ciplak ducky ones then  tongue.gif
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QUOTE
future sets will also get cheaper in the future once some of the initial costs are recouped

They said the future sets will be cheaper. biggrin.gif
ck.chunkeat
post May 6 2015, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(CAL V @ May 5 2015, 11:27 PM)
Well, I have never seen GMK set resurface after the GB is done. That might be possible but I'm not sure, coz I've never seen one. While SP sets are like occasionally will have a massive GB.

I'm also waiting for that classic Beige GB.
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I didn't meant gmk stuff, I meant the new JT keycap. The vendor said future sets will be cheaper.
ck.chunkeat
post May 6 2015, 08:59 PM

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That led case effect.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

ck.chunkeat
post May 7 2015, 10:56 PM

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QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ May 7 2015, 10:01 PM)
Yesterday went to hardware store. Just saw this new graphite lube. It's basically your pencil core all ground up to become dry lube. Very nice, but messy.

For lube, just buy an RM1.50 paintbrush from Popular, get a nice can of high viscosity lube and paint away. Remember to just apply single layer. Tedious, but worthwhile to learn some simple mechanical skills.
*
What high viscosity lube that you recommend other than those expensive krytox that can be bought locally at the hardware shop?

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