Need to reset ECU/recalibrate totobodi

Any CVT related matter, pls deal with Plotong. Be sure to use Plotong fluid also. There are incident that some smartbottoms being so smart uses Hongda CVT fluid in their GaGa and ended up change gearbox to manual

Probably not, need to wipe certain data pulling fuse wouldn't do that. But no harm trying. Usually I've seen SC hard connect certain wire to do the reset. Otherwise, also tried use OBD2 to reset. I haven't came to see a shop to do it for free. If you found 1, pls share. Thanks

Unplug battery/replace fuse of ECU can recalibrate throttlebody?

Open the boot, pull the carpet off from the passenger side rear left brake lamp assy area. You'll see 2 computer boxes over there with wiring harness strapped on. Do remember at this point to double check if your car key is in your pocket, do not leave car key in the car. Unplug the boxes(immobilizer and alarm module). Give it a few minute rest and put them back on. By the time you plug in the wiring harness, your alarm should automatically trigger. Use your key to unlock.

Give it a shot. This is your last resolution. If this doesn't solve, good chance is your alarm module short circuit.

Everytime you remove/plugback the battery terminal, your alarm module will auto trigger and lock all doors. This is a safety measure as prevent thief from reset your alarm by disconnecting battery. Hence, by default alarm module is programmed to trigger and lock all doors when power supplied.

Taking off the wiring harness is good as disconnecting battery to the alarm module. Remove wiring = no current. Connect wiring = power supplied. Then auto trigger and lock all doors.

Could be many things

1) Absorber mounting KO
2) Spring mounting KO
3) Lower arm KO
4) Steering rack bengkoked
5) Anti roll bar dropped link(tulang anjing) koyaked/bengkoked

6) could be nothing, 1 time spring lari from tapak after high impact

Could be any 1 or more of the above that causes it. Send it to reliable tyre shop to diagnostic please.

Abosufuckinglutely normal. Reason for that is to protect your hardware

1) From engine over revving. 1 must understand when engine free from gebox, torque is raw and there's no other equipment to compensate. Can easily rev until redline then engine explode
2) Prevent sohem from rev engine beyond safe torque band to launch the car. For example last time people manyak panai put gear to N, rev until 6krpm then suddenly punch into D. Like this gebox cipat rosak.

Trust the above explains it.

Unless you do not wish to continue woranti. Otherwise, NO must go back Plotong otorais SC

Go for mineral oil than. Make sure it's still Plotong certified Petr6nas oil. It wouldn't kill your engine even if it's mineral. Again, woranti is what you buy - by servicing your car at otorais SC. If you think servicing at plotong is expansive, think again what happened within 3 years woranti period if injin rosaked, there goes 8k. If transmission rosaked, another 12k. Probably enough for u to bai another used SV liao

The 40litre fuel tank if being used effectively, that 35litres of fuel can made up to 600km. The VIN coded as PL1BT series are all made for fuel economy model. PL1(Proton)BT3(BaseTrimModel3)SNR(Sedan) - Plotong GaGa/S16 series
PL1(Proton)BT2(BaseTrimModel2)LNR(Hatchback) - Plotong Shawie/ShawieStyle in UK-OZ
Help yourself here http://vindecoder.eu/proton

The rev limiter is set around that region. I wouldn't be sure what's the exact figure, our old BLM doesn't have that function. As far as I know, most newer automatic transmission vehicle already have the rev limiting function for transmission protection. The 1st time I notice it was a 2003 Hongda Aggord, already got such function when everybody was scratching our head

Flydei da 13

The "BT" I actually do not know what it stands for, neither the local workshop fellas know what the heck it represents, we're just guessing. However, we think it's more likely to be in Malay language BuaTan the meaning of MAKE, similar to MK in other country's VIN. So, if BT2 for Savvy is 2nd model, which makes your is 6th model As for the ST... that part is the trim/model. I don't know what it stands for either, take a wild guess - SUPER TURBO ?

Admit it, you just wanted more bars in the car(be it cheap and useless) to "look" fast and "feel" stable. The rear lower bar of Ular Cacing has a total different function than what 3MAX ARB does. It's a cross member brace that will enforce the chassis rigidity beneath the rear passneger seats. It's not about how cheap the bar can be, it's the functionality

Please bai Ular Cacing rear "STRUT" bar. From the name, 1 can expect the bar supposed to strap on the STRUT, which 3MAX idiotic kind of design conveniently strapped on the seats. What an idiot

p/s: NOT trolling, in addition to the latest incident that involved our TS

This is rather intriguing, didn't know Mahihi can fix a strut on a GaGa PL1BT series chassis

- Very colorful England the bugger speaken If he/she lose a job, I wouldn't be surprise it's mainly caused by his poor command in England

- Buying a Plotong, indeed is all about fixing/repairing. Ever heard of R3?

Race . Rosak . Repair

- Being a Shawie owner, did not lurk around LYN Shawie tered is already losing out. Worst is, he/she owns an AMT Which already well known for the frenchy tofu gebox that even a new car can breakdown just like that without warning. Shawie AMT gebox itself already comprise of 3 main important part that is required regular service/repair as preventive action, which makes the ranjiao AMT box a pain in the butt to maintain due to expansive wear & tear item in the transmission.

- Plotong themselves screwed up 7/10 Shawie's AMT transmission by simply putting normal automatik oil in to it. They think changing the car badge can make the transmission compatible with Petronas OEM Plotong transmission fluid, which makes a frenchy gebox to comply with Marehsia weather.

- Shawie stopped production in 2010. Upon that time, KL plate was running on WTX9999. Obviously, some1 got a big diskaun in 2012 to obtained his/her "showroom/testdrove" unit which probably kena trashed by your's truly during test drive session before I purchased mine

- Having a problem with SC is "after sales service" issue. The proper channel to get things done is, put it up with tribunal pengguna, not a fucking feisbuk. If TP didn't solve your problem, put the TP case on newspaper. I think Plotong immediately absorb his/her Shawie & had it replaced with hIriz :lol

Call me a Plotong fanboi! If owning a Plotong is stupid, I think ayam stupid powered by 10 liao. Other than Plotong dealers/usedcar dealers ayam 1 of the CONSUMER that owned any 1 time the most Plotong in possession person, yet I only managed to send in 1 time to CoSE for regular service, never bother to go back again.

Making poor quality cars = way of survival for Plotong
Being stupid = too much feisbuking, think complain over feisbuk will get Plotong to respond?
Being stupid, bought a poor quality cheap & discounted car, still bark around with poor Engrish at the wrong channel to the wrong person = CRIME

U obviously no sense of humor Did jiu for 1 moment really think that "ayam not trolling" is not a troll?

The rear lower bar, which I have explained it solely braced between the rear member, hence you can't really feel it much as Plotong GaGa chassis rigidity ady way hai, unless jiu go offroad as I did last time, yes it will be significant. If jiu wang sumting that really change your maneuverability and how the car feels, the side lower bars please But then again, you wouldn't be telling me it's expansive than the rear lower bar again right? Prove me wrong, you're not having some extra cash that can afford 1 piece of 100+ bar so you add a bar under the car & call it a day

u look black smoke no up eh