Funny that, when I was a much younger version of me in my teen years I'd lust for fancy things like an equaliser, then when I finally got one the realisation dawned upon me that what I really want in sound is just a pure amplification of the source, without adjustment. I wonder how many equalisers spend their lives after a quick experiment with all knobs set on the zero position?
A similar example would be the SAT button on the CVT, I tried it when new as an experiment, then realised it was a retrograde setting and introduced a very slight jerkiness that olde style autos have been trying to eliminate for years, so I've shunned it since. In truth there's more reasons for me to avoid the SAT too, one being it doesn't reach as low (or is it high?) a ratio in SAT mode, so more revs on the highway, another is a perception that the 6 steps of the SAT mode may lead to grooving in the sheaves by the belt and cause some niggles in the future.

Just be wary that there's an awful lot of background noise in a car environment, some 70 db or so, so the law of diminishing returns for your money count as much or more than anywhere.
The extra loud doof-doofs I hear so often drive past can defeat the background noise to a mighty degree but will certainly come with a loss of hearing in later years, happily my hearing is fairly OK at 58 y/o but for some reason I don't think I've ever heard frequencies above 10k and gravely doubt that anything but dog whistles use that spectrum, something I was happy to test in my younger days when observing some fellow workers were most displeased.
Any info about connecting our steering control is most welcomed by me but I still favour the double DIN approach with its tidier screen, especially a unit without the now redundant CD that car makers persist with, I've yet to put a CD in my stock unit, why would I when it's far simpler just to copy mp3s onto a USB drive, hundreds of them.

My oath I'd have one if it was as simple as it might be for you, things that are near universal for you can be nearly unobtainable for me, but meanwhile Daisy continues to a lovely and reliable thing to drive in.

Of course you may ask, and we'll all hope some handy feedback will come.
My handbook states that the CFE and IAFM+ (which is my FLX type) aree due at 120,000 km or 96 months whichever comes first.
Other CPS, IAFM, CAMPRO and D4F are due at 90,000 km or 72 months, again whichever comes first.
The brave amongst us will wait until those periods are reached, but I'd love to hear tales of woe in order to have a better knowledge of how brave we can really be.
History is littered with fancy brand engines that struggle to make the scheduled replacement period, and as a result chains have made a return to fashion. Myself I'm a fan of belts but I also find replacing them to be not a difficult DIY job.

That's great info David.
Incredible how many just won't replace the belt, they see the cost and defer it until the inevitable, then belts needlessly get a bad name. I'd sooner change a belt than a chain but in this part of the world even checking the oil level dipstick is considered way too technical and difficult for many, even pulling the bonnet release is an affront to their dignity.

I can only think of affluent nurturing, sheltered from concern, later in life the realiasion comes that money doesn't actually grow on trees but no knowledge of how to exist on a budget has been gained.
A workshop here will charge ~AU$100 an hour, so when folk get a $400+ quote for a timing belt they defer it indefinitely. Worse to be is the upselling that has become a business model for many companies, it's now semi-compulsory to have the water pump replaced whenever a timing belt is done, much as a tyre shop will add on a steering alignment that will more likely ruin what was a good setup than correct an unknown problem. We have a generation or two that are raised solidly in the belief that anything nuclear is automatically evil, people die within days of contacting any product that contains any trace of asbestos (such as a great part of my house), by law a licenced plumber must be called for any job greater than changing a tap washer, goodbye $200 if you want to fit a new tap. Back in the day when we had old style Edison lightbulbs that burned out (now illegal to import under fear of a $100,000 fine) I had noticed a severe inability of the younger folk to undertake the task, certainly not in any workplace but also under the belief it was too dangerous to attempt at home.
I started my motoring on motorbikes so for me it was natural to learn how to do my own tinkering.

Pardon my naivety but where might an interested soul like myself find this little tale?

Thanks squire, I too was surprised by the pressure easing holes in the inner guard but shall avoid doing that due to too many unpaved roads.
A fresh idea I liked was cooling fins on the sump, something for me to ponder.
It also spurred me into inspecting Daisy's throttle body, a surface dressing may be in order.

I'm in no way concerned about throttle response but only wish to inspect the smoothness of the bore, efficiency gains are what I seek to find.
Having a CVT means means power gains are pointless, without forced induction more power would mean higher revs but our engines are purposely detuned by limiting the revs where maximum power is made, due to the CVT having a rev limit.
If forced induction is used then the torque limit of the VT2 would be exceeded with my S4PH, although there's a little bit more headroom there, and S4PE users will likely find that a useful method, providing they limit the revs. Hmm could be a good little market for an aftermarket kit, could even leave the old injectors to limit power.

Sure is.

Yes I don't intend to do anything to the VT2, although if a VT3 suddenly appeared at the right price I'd be tempted to bolt it in due largely to raised gearing.
I went downstairs this morning opened Daisy's bonnet intending to inspect her throttle body, then upon realising how tucked away it is my lazy gene kicked in and I settled for checking the dipstick, some colour in the oil now but still full, then closed her bonnet.
Now my brain is sparking again and I may tackle it again soon by first removing the air cleaner assembly, that should make it a far easier job, as well as giving me a good chance to grab some photos of places not usually seen.

It has me curious as well as a bit dubious. I'm thinking it's possible it may help bottom end at the expense of peak power at the top end, but then my FLX has IAFM+ so I have to think the intake is tweaked to suit the standard setup. Spacing the TB may well have a quite beneficial effect on the earlier non-IAFM intakes due to their known flat spot, but I still find it hard to believe it may help maximum power.

Well put, My guess is ang moh refers to my racial characteristics, in that case I'm even paler than I need be due to some issues with anaemia, caused I suppose from a bit of internal bleeding that seems to be an ongoing issue.
The crank I admire is the Mitsubishi one used in the CFE engine, that bit less stroke would suit plonking into Daisy. Currently I have to be a bit choosy about which fuel to use as most of our petrol is 91 RON jungle juice, something I shouldn't use. What I do use right or wrong is the even cheaper 91 with 10% ethanol blended in, in theory that boosts the RON to 94, which I consider close enough to the 95 indicated for her, but since I pretty well never use more than 50% of the throttle things in my mind should be fine.
For the brave and curious I do post piccies of myself from time to time on my weblog A sad time in that for me was back in October 2012, but happily for me life has reason again.

All I did when Daisy was fairly new was change pads to very cheap Protex Blue ones. The result was a much better bite and feel than the stock pads but as they are meant for casual use daily driving they'd be hopeless on a racetrack, but since I'm an old fuddy duddy that's meaningless to me, my real want was to have pads that will do minimal wear to the rotor, the fact they had much better bite than the stock ones was a pleasant side effect, another nice touch was they're a pretty blue but it may be difficult to find which Chinese company supplies them to the Aussie importer known as Protex.

Be very careful with coolant, don't mix colours, it's a real chemical war zone if you mix different types.
In Australia cunning marketing has what is known as a type b cheaply available in supermarkets, it's a mere 5% glycol mix so is only suitable for cars of Model T vintage or earlier but many are lulled into the labelling charm.
Aim for a glycol concentration between 33 and 50%, myself I prefer to dilute concentrated stuff but use demineralised water meant for steam irons from the supermarket to dilute it.

SAT is there to use once to remind a person why they bought a CVT, to get away from jerky gearchanges, after that bit of fun put it back into D and forget about the SAT button until you feel a need for a nostalgic reminder.

A good fresh one will put out 3.2 V, they're getting a bit tired if only 3 V. Lithium button cells have a pretty long shelf life so it shouldn't be expected but having two fail leads to suspecting it.

I just had a look at my key battery and mine is a CR-2032, the issue could be the CR-2016 can't provide enough current to work reliably even if it's likely to fit and contact the terminals fine. LED lamp makers take advantage of the limited ability of the CR-2016 to make lights very simple, so they must only output 20 mA or so. With the CR-2032 having double the thickness it may output nearly twice that.

A can of worms has been opened.
After reading the posts here I changed my CR-2032 for two CR-2016 (which was rather a chore because the first pack I grabbed was old and stale and only pushed out 0.2 V each, but they were 9 years past BB date) then a newer pack had one out of the first three slightly low, only 2.88 V) and the result is the LED lighting now as its threshold must now be exceeded, and the range vastly extended.
Slightly too early to endorse fully yet but more feedback may suggest all owners check and change to 2 x CR-2016 if no drama occurs.

I did a bit of checking out my remote

The HCS300 is the workhorse and its specs show its Voltage limits between 0.3 and 6.6 Volt but it also shows current drain is much higher at the two cell level than the one cell variant, this would tally up with the noted extra range experienced, but of course the downside will be a much reduced battery life. In my case the shorter battery life may enable to use my house stock before they die from old age.
Anyway I'll continue with my experiment until it fails or I hear from another failure.
The silver EPCOS chip I believe is a filter and with a 1 meg resistor to it I doubt any stress will be caused to it.