The purge valve if rosaked will have TOK TOK TOK TOK TOK very loud noise lar. The video shows, once detached the purge valve, can only hear the hissing noise lar. Haiyo

Kudos my friend. Sorry weren't able to be your company off late as KL branch having serious understaff issue now. In the hope soon my new colleague knight rider able to be my relief

Waifu just called, said the car being cashed from behind AGAIN. This time, she got out and negotiated with the fella. The fella paid her RM50, saying the scratch can be easily polished away. As usual, what an easy way to get out of trouble when you crashed into a housewife who know nothing about car. Waifu didn't even collect name/vehicle number/IC number and withness legit driving license/roadtax. No photo being taken at all on the accident scene. When asked upon, she can't even remember what car that crashed into ours.

Seriously, I think I numb ady. I'm not going to repair the car anymore until it comes 1 day the insurance company bear all of it for me. Let a women drive you car, let it be the women's car.

FEAD belt noise. Gates RM55. Temporary solution con yourself, sapu lilin, but won't know when will snap.

What can I say. Fedup ady. This is ady the 2nd time kena crashed very since I pasanged it in December. Ayam not gonna do anything to it anymore.

Its been awhile since I made a lengthy post. So here we go. After 3 years of ownership of a newer model of GaGa BLM B-Line, thins I like & do not like about the car.

LIKED
1) Boot space is amazingly huge consider a small B segmant sedan that based on a hatchback Shawie chassis.
2) 94hp on paper is amazingly good for a 1.3 engine. Powerful & sweatless sprint it performed.
3) Handling is awesome, consider this is a torsion beam setup. How often do u drive a lorry with good handling?!
4) On strick highway cruising below between 80-90kph, fuel consumption is marvelously low, can easily yield about 18km/litre and above.
5) Rear headroom & legroom is sufficient even for a 6footer to occupy.

DISLIKED
1) The boot space is huge enough, but hardly able to fully occupy. The hinges design is outragesly bad, where the boot arm required enormous space to contract. I can fit 1 full size traveling luggage, 1 personal luggage, 1 small luggage, 1 baby stroller, 2 laptops & thatut it. The sides, I can only fit my bowling shoes because it required space to retract the boot arm! Its impossible to fit 3 full size Travelling luggage! I believe that's close to 20% of the boot space is unusable, unless u bore a hole on top of the boot, had it shut & start filling water from the hole, and yes the entire boot can be fully occupy.
2) Despite its rated 94hp, my dyno result shows 78whp. Considering transmission/road resistance & effective weight, 78whp is way better then most 1.3 category engines. However, the torque distribution is horribly wrong at 11kg/mm. Having the IAFM assistant on low end doesn't help much. The car literally can feel the transition when switching over from IAFM to normally aspiration at 4krpm. I wonder why can't they(Plotong) continue to use VIM+CPS on the 1.3 engine?!
3) The good handling was inheritted from Shawie, but somehow Plotong conveniently forgot about excess weight of a sedan. Tail sagging issue persist even on an FLX. The car is so safe to drive, to an extend that it understeer so badly where the car will literally drift outward on any bend. Having said that Plotong finally realized the butt sag issue, a higher bounce rate spring being introduced into the FLX, but the bloody damper remain the same! Hard press + soft push retraction, the result is - UP. We can fly like a dugong!
4) 80% of our road usage is on city/town driving. Fuel consumption yield below 10km/litre. I donanna live in this world anymore! Everytime when I think the engine have enough juice to move, I had to brake for the traffic!
5) Let's talk about resell value. I got my car by struck a good deal 3 years back exactly today. The time the previous owner having financial difficulties, I owned the car by paying 28k, about 25% discount from a new car. Today, the very same 5 year old BLM model is selling at 16k. When I open my eyes & tell a white lie to all Plotong owner how bad a VIOS resell value can be, seriously if u r paying 80k to own the car, after 5 years u sell it at 40k, that wasn't so bad! 40k downpayment, u can easily upgrade to another category. On the other hand, by paying 38k to own a car, after 5 years to sell it at 16k, now that's the worst thing 1 can ever anticipate. That 16k will not get u another better option if u decided to buy a new car! Be stuck with Plotong for the rest of your life!

Enough of rant. Knowing capacilities is 1 thing. If I can afford, could have bought a P42 back then. Practical is another thing. The car has little problem other then the normal "IAFM problem", which virtually don't exist unless 1 is particular about engine noise. I've clocked almost 600km/tank several times when doing full hiway tour. Rides & handling is exceptionally good for its category(until I own a Shawie). Off late the poor car kept on getting crashed from behind. A 3 year ownership, it has suffered bumper change twice. When I newly got the car, parked at Puchong IOI business centre car park, someone banged on my bumper, leave a huge ugly scratch, I use a huge plaster to cover it. A year later, some old car crashed into my bumper again when wife was driving at LDP. Left me no choice but to get the bumper changed. Few months later, at a stop-look-go traffic, the car behind thought my wife is gonna move, conveniently crashed into my new bumper again. This time, I'm happy enough to get my bumper from SiuYi as I've been dreaming to own the SPIN180 bumper for long. Few weeks later, a MyVi cutting queue & scrape its body with my rear bumper. And yesterday, another Hyundai crashed into the same spot - A G A I N. Don't think I'm going to change/repaint it anyways. Its either people choose to bully my wife, or my BLM backside is too attractive for bummers. Believe it or not, if I ever gonna change my rear bumper again, its gonna be no color! Remain black & ugly!!!

Love my BLM

56 durian is plain bullshit, the boot kenot be closed

You have all the rights to decline the acceptance of your vehicle if you can prove they use wrong part number. BUT, since your car already rolled out from the shop, meaning that you've signed the acknowledgement of acceptance. So, what is there left for you to complain? May need grand sifu allenultra to further information.

Don't bother with the front ARB. Strong enough liao even for BLM. Might as well use the money to change to silicone bushing + powderful ejestebel coilovers

You obviously don't give a damn in reading post, rant for the sake of ranting you loss RM750. The car treated you well until the clutch pump is dead, and it doesn't affect many FLX MT owner, could be so happened you get a lemoned clutch pump. If Plotong made this 1 mistake deserve you rant like this, for no reason you also make a post and dis them, then Toyolda should really go close shop and sell nasi lemak ady.

For your information, the reply for the Savvy rant has been made previously.

FYI, like this already rant like an idiot, next time when people try to search for your nickname for business purposes, see this kind of post, where will be your credibility goes? Think about it lar fren. Not that I'm looking for a fight, I too dislike some of the crap Plotong did, but ranting over and over again for the same shit you stepped on isn't bringing you anywhere. Unhappy? Go la tribunal pengguna and sue Plotong use Cina part, see what you get? May be you get a replacement hIriz?

We hear you already. Now, take this battle off LYN and go official. No keep ranting here over and over again. And yes, that's Plotong. Lu tarak suka, lu jgn bili Having said that, I don't even buy a new Plotong at all

Because being repeated too many times, and out of the blue suddenly you came bark again

Do not bring it to performance shop if you truly wanted to restore the car from accident.

1) Send it to reliable tayarshop, ask for drivetrain inspection. Take note on all the bushing/related department that needed to fix/replace. BLM subframe/lower arm are the same. The front ARB can be very effective for BLM because ARB is not supposed to exceed 10% of esoba strength or will send your car to the moon. If you are talking about the sway feeling, take it this way, the new word for SAMPAN is called AGILITY.

2) For the same tayar shop, if they got machine, by right you can test your battery there also. Whilst driving voltage drop is not the battery problem as far as I can tell. I'm more than worried that the workshop did not fix back your charge cable properly.

Get the above 2 solved, before you go for performance shop. It's not that I'm saying performance shop can't use, it's because their FORTE is making your car PERFORM, not restore a junkyard car that supposed to go for totolos.

Got my FEAD belt RM55
Tensioner bearing RM86
Labor included

drfeelgood we've been through saliva battle, knowing your character & espect the fact that u r a straight forward person. I rest my tongue here by giving u my last piece of advise here. You can hate Plotong as much as u do; U can rant about it when opinion sought upon; u can even burn down their factory if u want to. The thing is, we all in LYN know u have recently suffered loss of your clutch pump. We all understand that a Cina make product is consider expansive for that price. The thing is, 1 time bark, I understand your anger. Bark again, I understand your frustration. And yet again, seriously it rather feel annoying. Why not make a small change, put some sarcasm in it. Make it nice to read. Something like, "bai a Plotong, get a Chery klac pam", "paid for Plotong, got an Alardo","a car that never fail to surprise u, with breakdown". And, provided u do it the right time and to the right audience? Whenever someone trying to ask, may I buy a GaGa or MyBi? Then u go answer lar? I'm sure the person would appreciate your friendly warning gesture. What say u? I'm not being over sensitib or what? Just a friendly advice jek.

1st, do your own assessment before send to tayarshop.

1) Draw a dot right at the middle of your hubcap. From the dot measure length to your daun pisang near front door. Do another measurement to the front bumper edge. Finally 1 more measurement to the top of wheelarch. The front/back measurement will tell u the castor is aligned properly. The top to center is the dampening area.

2) Repeat the same to the other side, u will get the idea of how much difference. Use the bigger value substract the smaller value, u will get the castor difference between left/right wheel. Usually difference by mm is acceptable, but if the differences is up to CM, houston we have a plobrem.

A good tayarshop, will use their measurement tool, tell u something similar to your own measurement. They can pin point which joints/arm/bush need to be replaced, rough estimation of part/labour & some extra costing MAY incurred along repairation. If the shop tell u tak tau berapa, meaning that either they have not done this kinda case before(no experience in straightening an exiden car) or they preparing parang to pancung u.

U may just tell the shop got limited budget. Usually the shop will try to fish u by asking how much u got. Do not tell the truth regardless. Tell them probably below 100. The car went through exiden, say unable to claim due to 3rd party insurance. Make a dredfully regretted face, tu la pasal, jimat duit insurans ciket, bile exiden bayar 5 ribu. A good shop will show sympathy and try to work around your budget to repair to the max. If really insufficient, they will die die make the car work, atleast for some time until u have your next RM100, or will tell u how much u should expect the spend for a full repair next time around. Like I said, the good shop will usually tell u how much u shd expect to spend.

Worst case scenario, the shop is an ass, u pay your alignment RM20-25. Walk away from the shop & never go back again. Remember, always ask kalau buat semua, berapa kena, then baru bagitaw bajet RM100 to see how they react.

Our well known tayar guy nestum is in KL. Unless u wanna drive all the way down here. Otherwise suggest u find a local trusted/reliable tayarshop.

Clearly, someone messed up your wiring.

The © in C1555 means ©hassis (P)=Powertrain/Engine, (T)=Transmission.
C1555 = EMPS ECU Malfunction
(Electric Motor Power Steering (EMPS) Electronic Control Unit (ECU))

http://www.obd-data.com/P1793.html

Check your speed sensor and your MAPS whether attached correctly. I got a hunch that your current situation is caused by the alternator low charging that causes the fault code, if the above code was from your car OBD reading.

This 1 hold some weight in it I believe. The rest can be easily explained as excuses, but that 1 is a major factor that causes people lose business intention

You may directly deal with abam nestum, book a time with him. Usually can settle within same day. Even if he can't atleast he will assure you what is needed to be done when you're back to your kampung.

The fault code issue, normal workshop that has a decent equipment, and ofcourse won't be cheap they charge. Can try your local well known shop for the diagnostic/repair if needed. Plotong SC? Unless you know them well enough, and knowing which particular servicer that is qualified to do this kind of thing. Otherwise, usually they'll ask you leave the car there. After 1 week they tell you can't find the issue after reset ECU and tell you off. After certain driving distance, the CEL came back up, you send in again, they ask you for another week. This time, after 1 week they tell you still dunno what's the problem, and probably will ask HQ send qualified ENGINEER over to diagnose your car. By the time you get back your car(and hopefully the problem is solved) probably installment sudah bayar habish

You asked a question, people answering honestly jek

trekdei insurans tarak kaver