aku sibuk. no time to snap. HAHAHA

i got a 3-4pcs each of red/white and yellow reinforced
hahahahaha

who sez so laa. aku nye ok je.
angle is the keyyz!

ef u. stfu.
aku pakai ok je. xde clip. tape je.
nak clip bagai. banyak songeh plak.
meh beli ori ngan aku meh RM150

This post has been edited by iOnine: Feb 23 2015, 09:16 AM

Previously, I shared my VS Hanging Jaw setup. For damping system, I was using a burger on each side. It was inconsistent. Sometimes it sticks, sometimes it doesnt.
So I swapped the burger out and inserted this combo of 1:1 bowl-cylinder combo and holy cow it jumped higher and further. I think, in this case, momentum is behind it

secret for hanging jaw is:
the mid damper always use cylinder + bowl
let it play around. just put locknut at the top of the screw sahaja.
no need to adjust

the rear is vary. depending on your track.
that, you gotta play around the height of damper.

Thanks bro. Will adjust the locknut. Btw, Block or any dampers will do for rear?

semi speed (not longjump)
preferbly start with cylinder dampers. then up to burger.
if need heavier, go with cylinder + syling damper.
(your rear is single middle or double pole dampers - both edge?)

as for me, i never use block unless its long jump
longjump aku semua depan and tengah. rear mmg no dampers at all

This post has been edited by iOnine: Feb 23 2015, 01:08 PM

I'm using full cowl HG Carbon as front bumper. Not sure the strategy for front damper placement.
As for rear, I'll try and upload it by tonight

My [SIZE=1]not so[SIZE=1] sexy ass

Font fail. Fml

anyone got picture/guide for original AKD front?
planning to do super X AKD project

Found deeeeep in my phone. Nick CDRW's car. AKD sebenar



This post has been edited by AF21: Feb 24 2015, 08:17 AM

Epul's build. another AKD. A well done one

blakang tu hammer damper?
fail la. clean it up skit pls. make it more decent. hahaha

Heyo AF, sent you a PM awhile back with my info, could you let me know? THanks!

Hey guys, I'm back for new questions

1. In a high speed track (with straights and curves and 1 rainbow change lane), my car flies on the rainbow change lane lately (when the same track layout was transferred to another location). Any ideas what to adjust? I was thinking there was a problem with the change lane but Indonesian Mini 4WD's which are super fast did not fly off on the change lane.

2. I bought a 2nd hand 2 lane track for testing. The width between the walls seems to be narrow compared to 3 lane tracks. Is that the standard for two lanes?

3. In addition for 2 lane tracks, did anyone saw a 2 lane track with slopes / jumps?

Rainbow Change Lane:


My Car: (Ultra Dash with 3.5 gear ratio)


This is meant for tracks with no change lane right? Because the rollers will skid on change lanes. Hence, what do people do to lower the rollers on high speed tracks w/ change lanes (rainbow or standard change lane).

This post has been edited by Cim~: Feb 24 2015, 09:15 PM

Tamiya races always have lane changers, either bridge type or rainbow type.
My setup is for speed with rainbow lane changers.

Does the screw / lower roller skid on the slope track or you lower as low as possible while not skidding / braking on the slope of the change lane?

It looks so low in the pic, but in reality it doesn't scrap the track when going up on the banks.
There's actually a few mm clearance when going through the bank

Unlike some people who does not have common sense, they have the screw heads at the bottom so low that their cars scrape tracks like nobody's business.

Got it. I almost thought of attaching skid brake (the stock part that came on AR / MA chassis) to lower the rollers like attaching brake pads in speed tech if lowering rollers is really needed.

Any ideas on my other questions? Plus, on high speeds, do you prefer the roller width to exactly touch the track walls or you put allowance?

This post has been edited by Cim~: Feb 24 2015, 10:31 PM

When I look at your car picture, I mean, I'm not sure how you guys set up the rollers over there, but we here use rollers on its specifically assigned holes.
For example, the most outer hole is for 9mm, the mid one for 13mm, and the most inner one for 19mm. That's the standard followed by everyone, as far as I'm concerned. We don't install rollers by 'feel' lol.

I know Indonesian mini 4wd racer fits roller to the almost exact width of the track lane, but those are not Tamiya race. They're Soda or Nascar stuffs, which have different approach in setup.



With Ultra Dash, try use higher stabilizer at the front. Just double rollers without a tall positioned stabilizer is not enough. Get the stabilizing pole to be at least the same height of the wheel, but not too high.
But since the layout is just using rainbow, you could just skip the double roller and go for 9mm ball bearing, or better, the Tamiya AO 830 ball bearing as roller. They're light, smooth and doesn't rust.

As for your front bumper plates, FRP wont cut it, really. Because it will somehow flexes at high speed cornering, which could make your car fly out, or just reduces your cornering speed. Get at least a 2mm HG carbon plates.
You could use normal FRP if the motor is limited to the lightweight ones like stock motor, torque tuned or atomic. But with more powerful motor, use HG carbon plates, 2mm at least.

You might also want to change the roller hole position. Use your 13mm double roller in the middle hole (the 2nd last hole).



I have no comment regarding 2-lane tracks due to no experience with them.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 24 2015, 10:52 PM

Hi, Who got used pit box for sale? Pls pm me. thanks.