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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V66, Jerkyy Dong Dong Chiang

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davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 24 2014, 10:41 AM)
ada  brows.gif  brows.gif
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Bikin mana? Bape kena? Nak bikin minyak injin cooler boley?
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Dec 24 2014, 10:58 AM)
this is something new to me... laugh.gif
ATF cooler...like those CVT has...between the radiator and the bumper... iinm...
davidke20 remember the time u drove my car and u mentioned to me that my car transmission is smoother if compared to others? i guess this is the reason? my car ada CVT ATF cooler... whistling.gif
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Very similar to old taip Plotong 3AT, where the transmission fluid route back to radiator for water cool nod.gif Extremely smooth transition with minimal shift shock even on hot afternoon nod.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(drfeelgood @ Dec 24 2014, 09:02 AM)
Yes boss. Anyway, in the next month, I have KIV 2 options for my Saga upgrade.

1. Davidke20's 15 inch rim upgrade.  flex.gif

Or

2. 4-2-1 manifold change, after cutting off that damn Catalytic Convertor, Swirl Bullet and S Flow can. Either 1 but most likely number 1.
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QUOTE(calvin_kenni @ Dec 24 2014, 11:28 AM)
drfeelgood after cutting off the CC, i think u can sell to Davidke20, he's looking for that iinm..  biggrin.gif
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Korek. After cut ady throw to me. Tengkiu notworthy.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 24 2014, 11:38 AM)
thisss....

am not sure but...

you can try this.
When you turn your key to ON, can you hear a sound like "teeeeettttt' from the rear seat? is loud or veryyy slow?
How much is your mileage? do you often let your petrol indicator to blink long before you pump petrol?
This can be caused by weak fuel pump or "Sumbat" Fuel filter.

This is my suggestion :
1) before you start, turn your key to ON and leave it for few seconds. and try start. does this makes any difference.
2) Change your car Fuel filter when you service your car. It cost around rm30-50 for parts only
3) If not, a weak fuel pump may be the culprit. RM300 for Proton Original part. ( i know.i just changed it)  cry.gif
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sleep.gif komen plobrem utk kampro, especially IAFM punya. Injektor takleh tutup ketat after long drive/hot weather. Lagipon, itu fuel map lag, sudah mati injin tapi injektor masih lagi dripping minyak petol, mampos sepakberak terbasah doh.gif Tengari pi umah gafren sudah piapiap gafren naek kete mau cabut taim.... WUEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKE xleh idup injin doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif

Also happen on cold start, when drib sekijam trus mati injin. For example rokok sudah habish, drib GaGa pi luar punya warueng Indo belik Gudang Garam, manyak hepi dah dapat, nanti naek kete... WUEKEKKEKEKEKEKEKEKE xleh idup injin agi doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 12:04 PM)
soon i think ... my inspalia nothing to play jo
keeeepisssshhh we also accomplished with totally CEL free jo
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Uih?! Tebucas liao ar?! Ur kar or fren's kar? Soli ar din cek bek Inspaliah tered blush.gif Reli admire yiu gaise lar. Veli da powderful. Got taim decode out ranjiao GaGa mou? Tibai totolag until step on gas pedal, 3 years later baru start to move da kar. At konar, sudah lepas gas pedal, tapi kereta masih sprint like no tomolo doh.gif A live kes, En.TitanRev sardenly bkam libopp obersteer when konaring doh.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 12:25 PM)
[attachmentid=4271703]

4B11T (Ralliart version) ... 343Nm 237bhp .. on stock F5MBB (5MT) .

Quite a lot of work to make it work with the stock gearbox ..
as well as configure the computer to work with manual (Ralliart only available in SST)
then wiring have to be configure to work with manual ..

totally CEL free.

--Edited--
oh ya.. utilize mitsu internal disable lean spool feature as well.. the power delivered was smooth .. cant feel the lag..
and the farking car is totally a sleeper .. u cant even see the intercooler.. fak it.. lolz
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Have a strong urge to demand for expertise to decode our Plotong ECU boley? notworthy.gif How do you charge professional fee? Tengkiu notworthy.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 12:59 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 12:47 PM)
Dude.. I need the car and the tools to and of coz time.. Lolz no car no tool what also cant do. Inspira is becoz i like to play with my own car.. Lolz
Its an inspira 1.8. Stock 172Nm 138bhp 5Mt
Now 2.0 ralliar engine 343Nm 237bhp 5mt

One of our member car . (dun wan disclose the owner name)
Stock sleeper.. brows.gif
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BLM I can drop 1 to you for research purpose(but I don't have an FLX), zhui doh ngo zha MyBi fan gung jek, zhoi hm hai ngo zha LMST wak jeh Ganjil dou duck, wang dim tit ceh darn hai doh sang fui chan. What tools is needed, I personally have little knowledge on EFi, hence have no idea how to crack the coconut. I got enough spannar to dismantle the whole car and break the engine into pieces without plobrem that I know.
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 01:09 PM)
Not that simple bro..
First u need to know weather it is rewriteable on the ecu itself. If not u need to pull out the chip physically. On the dump file only can start to do work.

It takes a lot of time and effort to understand and know what it is within. Example. Lancer ecu comes with two portion. The option embeded and the rom itself.
I took 1 year to find almost all necessary mapping .. Whereelse the option i juz manage to play with turbo ecu lately. Its almost 3 years
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I respect the effort you've putted in, hence never was saying it's easy. I'm in a total nutshell situation know nuts about the nut. Is it safe to ask if I get you the ECU module to let you dissect it, will that help? Time is no important, have been living with the crap car for 3 dad gum years. Sourcing for billion dollar question everywhere, all sort of scam that trying to suck me with their so call ECU remap all kinda bull crap, in the end all useless piece of junk. Some even to an extend the firmware got killed after too many close loop called by the piggyback, as a result ECU gone wonky and stuck with safe mode. doh.gif So to speak, I worship those who can decode GaGa and truly believe this is 1 piece of untapped land and full of thirsty fellas requesting you to dig us a well tuned ECU notworthy.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 24 2014, 01:15 PM)
snip, especially snipping the Fred Flintstone era power figure.
You can't get that sort of torque without forced induction, rule of thumb for a pretty good atmospheric engine is 90 Nm per litre, any higher is very good.
I wish somebody would shoot that horse that is used so often for power figures, in the real world we use a simple unit named after Mr Watt.
The turbo route sounds nice but I don't see my S4PH as a candidate, a new crank etc. would be needed methinks, but any boost may just destroy the CVT, stop dreaming Jimmy.
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user posted image
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 01:25 PM)
Except for the gearbox. Lolz
Hard bro. FYI .. Even TT i seldom go d.. I have two kids now..
And inspira also took me a lot time d (not juz decoding)

Ppl ask for installation of KOS.. ASC.. Full airbags..
And lately the internal security add on module.. Mr nzh promote.. End up 20++ juz prepare the wiring n parts i need to work OT after my kids slept.. If i land my hand on another car, i might need to sleep in my car d. Lol
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Understood geh. Ayam oso father of 2. Anyway thanks for sharing. Do kambek to us when you're a lil free to do so. Our GaGa land forever open(until someone came up with a reflash module that really works). notworthy.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 24 2014, 01:39 PM)
If u can start up with wiring diagrams and ecu pin out. Might as well extract the ecu let me know what chip inside. I see what i can help
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sweat.gif have trouble understand that instruction sweat.gif I'll go dig around see what can I cum up with.
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 24 2014, 01:36 PM)
nvm he will probably SST anyways and can be an upgrade, got TWO clutch instead of one. like dual VVTi  rolleyes.gif

well, i was actually preparing for the route of sleeping in car lol... that one separate discussion for the near/far future lol.
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In Senawang now brows.gif
davidke20
post Dec 24 2014, 05:53 PM

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TT KONVOI DYNO SENAWANG MAG1C

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Date: 27th December, 2014
Assembly: 9am
Location: Seremban R&R kapak infront of KFC
TT Location: If 0 muslim, ASIA LAKSA. Otherwise mamaks nearby MAG
Price: From RM80 up
Free gift: ignition timing adjustment or restoration, fuel regulator dyno tune(if you have it) all based on AFR readings to obtain optimal wheel horse power output. Take note there will be NO adjustment if your reading is already at optimal.
Condition: Test part, cam gear adjustment, custom fuel mapping all subjected to extra charge but will be REASONABLE pricing, and only chargeable upon agreement. Ask questions if you are not sure. Do not simply request for tuning ended up no happy with the bill.

Current attendance:
1) Quazacolt
2) davidke20
3)
4)
5)

See you there.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Dec 24 2014, 05:55 PM
davidke20
post Dec 25 2014, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(ruby1288 @ Dec 25 2014, 12:31 PM)
davidke20 not mistaken MAG can dyno cheebaitee right ?
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Korek!
davidke20
post Dec 25 2014, 06:40 PM

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TT KONVOI DYNO SENAWANG MAG1C

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Date: 27th December, 2014
08:30am: Assembly at davidek20's house
09:30am: If there's other wanna rendezvous, will be in Seremban R&R. Otherwise will skip this and go straight to Senawang
09:45am: Asia Laksa if 0 muslim participant, otherwise Mamaks nearby MAG
10:00am: Wait for boss setup machine and start dyno. Usually morning less people and no Q, so boss got mood to slowly dyno your car kaw kaw, tweak your parameter until squeeze out maximum power on your current hardware setup.
12:00pm: Go home sleep

Free gift: ignition timing adjustment or restoration, fuel regulator dyno tune(if you have it) all based on AFR readings to obtain optimal wheel horse power output. Take note there will be NO adjustment if your reading is already at optimal.
Condition: Test part, cam gear adjustment, custom fuel mapping all subjected to extra charge but will be REASONABLE pricing, and only chargeable upon agreement. Ask questions if you are not sure. Do not simply request for tuning ended up no happy with the bill.

Current attendance:
1) Quazacolt
2) davidke20
3) mengsuan
4) e-lite
5)

See you there.
davidke20
post Dec 26 2014, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Dec 25 2014, 11:57 PM)
Ok, tmr jump start 1st...from what i understand if battery flat, mostly the starter only emit 'click' once or 'wukeekekek' very slowly and u can see the light almost dead during crank, this is what i experienced 2 years ago. unsure.gif
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It's a dual layer double bearing solenoid starter(compatible with Mits Gallant - Perdana). The symptoms as you described got 3 causes.

1) Battery not enough power. To rectify this, change battery. But according to you, volt meter during cranking is 11V++, by right shouldn't have this issue, so it goes to...below
2) Earth(grounding) weakness. Add an extra grounding cable can solve this.
3) If the wuataktaktaktaktak very fast, meaning starter solenoid didn't get actuate out properly. The sign of DYING carbon brush IN the solenoid. Experienced magician will pull an extra power wire from battery positive pole, plonk a relay and use the original kick start wire as trigger. Draw power from battery directly when you switch your key to START. Relay wiring and relay module + labor is about RM40.

Lastly, if the solenoid is totally gone, the carbon brush no longer usable... well you're outta luck. Get a new starter. Still, I think a jump start is necessarily just to test out whether it is really battery KO yawn.gif
davidke20
post Dec 26 2014, 01:23 AM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Dec 26 2014, 12:30 AM)
1. Yup, shouldn't be battery problem. Anyway, tmr jump start 1st.
2. Car adi have aftermarket grounding cable, quite low possibility caused by it.
3. No 'wua', only tak tak tak, not really fast, around 2 times/second, as long as i hold the key, it will 'tak' forever. Anyway, i believe this method is just for temporary right? If the carbon brush is start to die, means it will die eventually right?

Just now quite embarrassing, my house parking is slightly decline, today i reverse without start car 1st becos dun want my baby rouse from sleep, just reverse by released handbrake and start after that, only find out can't start, the car stuck in the middle of the road. Have to ask neighbor to push my car back to home. blush.gif

Hopefully is just battery problem, if not jialat.
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The "temporary" measure of putting relay on a dying starter, lasted me another 3 years(probably until today, another 2 years after car sold to unker choy) whistling.gif So..... yes it's still temporary measure whistling.gif
davidke20
post Dec 26 2014, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 26 2014, 07:29 AM)
what if car alarm suddenly goes off? is it also related to battery problem?
car is locked, all doors/bonnet/boot are closed before
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Check few things:

1) Rear boot lock sensor. If its loosen, it will ground by itself. This happened sometimes overnight when atmosphere become heavy humid, vapor went short circuit the boot sensor. Not applicable for SV as the rear boot sensor is NOT connected.

2) All 4 doors striker plate are in place. Then check the door sensor nipple whether its straight by pressing the nipple & release quickly. Its a common flaw for all GaGa. Usually open up the nipple cover, spray WD40 can resolve the issue.

3) Cabin light, whether the switch is properly set to DOOR/ON/OFF. If given anytime the switch was set between or out of align with any of those toggle, yes it may trigger your alarm even the doors are still locked.

The above all 3 can be diagnosed DURING your alarm set off. Do not unarm your alarm or do anything during inspection. Peek through your driver window look into your dash cluster & see whether the DOOR OPENED indicator lite up. If yes, the above all 3 need to be checked. If not, no.4, 5 & 6 it is:

4) Alarm module short circuit. Open the trunk, on the left side got carpet bind with 3 plastic pin, pull them off & u will see the alarm module there. Give it a few knock in the face in the hope it fixed itself. Otherwise, go back claim warranty if still within 1 year. Or pay some 300++ to get a replacement. Do not attempt to bypass, all GaGa from 2010 hardwired the alarm code to immobilizer, & immobilizer is hardwired with ECU. Changing to aftermarket require extensive knowledge in rewiring the entire security system. Some claim they can bypass the immobilizer by simply take out the transponder from your key & glue it at the steering console, that does the job, but your fuel pump will not set to REST mode. Prepare to change fuel pump every year if you're lucky enough, otherwise lower grade pumps will just give up in few months time due to pressure gets overwhelmed, or worst petrol burst out from fuel line & set your car on fire whilst you're in sweet dreams.

5) Driver's door lock actuator motor gone wonky. The wiring are set to detect when doors are opened the centre locking system is disabled by default. If the module gone faulty, there's a chance it ground itself & sent door opened signal to alarm module & trigger your alarm regardless the lock are actually still intact.

6) Door lock actuator socket loosen. This 1 highly unlikely, if the socket loosen, when humid increase, it ground itself, your door lock opened, but will not set off your alarm until someone go open the door without unarming the alarm.

Good luck in checking. Believe wankel have similar issue.
davidke20
post Dec 26 2014, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 26 2014, 09:33 AM)
lohhh.. u never told me. i can help make your iafm last long mia. blush.gif
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drool.gif got strong urge of TT. PM nombor telipon plis drool.gif
davidke20
post Dec 26 2014, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Dec 26 2014, 10:03 AM)
oopss korektion. i can help show you where to do. brows.gif
mine after second change done the repair until now still works. 2.5 years dy.
with all the full throttle back in my days, the iafm still ok brows.gif

*not bypass ya. Iafm still working. Just make it a bit stronger.
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Ok question. Should do BEFORE koyaked or UPON koyaked?

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