Hi there.
I have a question.
I want to buy nex 6..but the guy
That wan to sell to me said he lost the cd inside.
This is my first time buying the nex 6.idk much bout it.
So.does this cd important?..can i still use the camera
and download whateva inside the cd somewhere else?
Thank you

new addition into my collection..

Minolta MD Rokkor-X 50mm F1.7
Minolta MD 24mm F2.8

Tq... will try it...

CD not important... normally they include a driver & pic software...
U can dload latest driver from their web & for software u can replace it with photoshop or lightroom...

Thinking of getting myself a new lens in 3 months time. Hehe. Voigtlander 50mm f/1.4 this time :3

Anyone has this lens and using with a Sony A7 now? Poison me with pictures!

Did you mean the 50mm F1.1 or F1.5? At that price, the Mitakon/ZhongYi Speedmaster 50mm F0.95 Dark Knight Pro is brighter. Only downside is that it's not as small as the Voigtlanders.


So here's something from my A7S and 50mm F0.95, at F0.95, of course.


More F0.95 goodness.

Not sure if the A7S is any different than the A7/A7R in terms of protection, although the A7S has a metal mount while the A7/A7R don't. I have used the A7S in moderate to heavy rain for 20 minutes. After that the rear dial started jumping. (Thus making one shot at 1/1250s when I didn't need it!) 1.5 hours later though it seemed to be okay again. When I returned home I put it in the dry box.

I also brought my A99 out for one time I thought I'd need the 24 megapixels, and even on the street in daylight I was thinking I needed faster shutter speeds (I'm usually on Aperture Priority with Auto ISO 200-6400 on the A99). However on the A7S I can safely be on Manual Exposure, F4.0 1/160s, Auto ISO 200-409600 - 1/160s is fast enough that I'm unlikely to get blown highlights in daylight.)

I guess you could say the A99 is an all-rounder, though just not in the ISO aspect - but then, nobody else is near the A7S. The dual card slot thing is something I have to think hard on how to use. I've copied folders from one card to another, but this doesn't work once your second photographer is using a different system and shooting RAW only. (I didn't check if it would copy anyway even though it saw no pictures.) As for weather sealing - I guess I don't quite enjoy shooting in the rain for too long!

So by far my A7S is still my daily driver - and it will be for event coverage, too - with the A99 only for studio work. (Next time I get caught in the rain, I'll just disable the affected dial and save settings to the 1 or 2 memory settings slot on the mode dial - not memory card slot heh.)

This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 28 2014, 01:58 AM

Dual-card slot is just for safety sake, just in case corruption. Not something critical unless you're doing work that can't be retaken and will affect your delivery.

As for weather seal I think it's more of a concern if you're frequently shooting at open air, perhaps like sports event. In any case, I'm not particularly concerned over weather seal as my EOS 350D had a full cup of orange juice spilled on it before and it's still alive today, I rinsed it with water and warm it up in my computer to remove the residue.

12MP is more than enough for most purpose, for me I only use full 18 - 24 MP on stuff that I find important, usually in RAW. Sometimes in JPG if I don't see the need to edit. Other than that I usually go for medium sized JPG for casual / non-critical photos.

Even for my goldfries site, I just use 8MP JPG for the product photos because my setup was fine tuned to have the photos work SOOC. Minor tuning if need to, upload to web also less than 2MP.

Ah, I see what you mean - writing the same thing to both cards. I have fortunately not had any corruption (but then I go for branded memory cards - not that it is completely riskproof but it's just not happened). I used to shoot weddings with another guy and we both had 2 cameras, 2 flashes (to swap when flash overheats or batteries die), and lenses that nearly overlap so if one lens breaks it is somewhat covered. I'll probably look at [writing to both cards] if I have to do this again, though I don't have any 2 SD cards that are exactly the same size so that bothers me if I want to do this.

How I miss the ultra wide perspective of a UWA lens. For the look and the usability especially when you want to frame everything within a really tight spot!

I'll see if I have change to get either a Rokinon or a Samyang 12mm f/2.0 prime lens. Just about 1mm wider than my previous setup that is a Canon 60D (1.6x crop) with a 10-22

LOL RAMES. KAWAN KU

Btw even at 0.95 you feel hard to focus ke ? Or focus peeking helps a lot already. I still get out of focus shot with my f/1.4 dissapointed.

How much you got it for. Im always seeking for versatility. Want to keep things light for travel and all

This post has been edited by ClericKilla: Dec 28 2014, 08:13 AM

I got mine here for the price stated on the link:
http://famecherry.com/shop-with-us-2/essen...ter-50mm-f0-95/

Nope, not any harder than any F1.4 lens. Focus peaking isn't good enough for F1.4 lenses anyway (coming from my Samyang 35mm and 85mm F1.4 lenses.)

Protip for quick manual focus without relying on focus peaking or magnifying: Quickly turn from close focus to far focus and look for the "thick band of near-focus". Your actual focus point is in the middle of that thick band. (Even as I am writing this, I am testing to see and I'm surprising myself with 100% accuracy wide open! Or maybe it helped that I have just disabled focus peaking, a distraction that doesn't help me.)

Also, Rames approves of this lens!

Notice raw image become darker after imported into lightroom (latest), did some findings found that we need to do some setup in order to match with sony camera settings. Anyone have this experience before and mind share your ideal setup/opinion?

You need to let me test run your A7s someday man

It's been a while since I get to play with your Z anyways

test shot with Minolta MD Rokkor-X 50mm F1.7..

What is min shutter speed to make crowd people "gone" from night landscape pic ?
3 mins bulb ?

I think depends on the situation right. If these people all well lit by the street light I think will be quite hard to take a photo with them disappearing from the photos. Also sometimes people just stand there for no reason

Btw, it's nice to have sort of like phantom walking in your pics



Anyway... For me it's still more like trial and error. When you see a scene you roughly have an idea what is the output you're expecting and thus you can just try to achieve it through trial and error. When one setting isn't working, keep trying. No dead rules in photography The more you try the more eexperience you gain and the next time you try to create a shot, you very much already know roughly what setting you need to use

This post has been edited by IwanAGP: Dec 28 2014, 01:52 PM

Nice! Congrats!
I just bought Rokkor 50mm f1.4 today. I have one problem though and quite a serious one. I do not have a camera for it yet.

I still can't decide between Sony A7 or a Sony A7S. Im planning to use A7/A7S for portrait and indoor/night shooting.

I already have OMD EM1 for everything else.

A7 or A7S?

Like Iwan says, it depends on the lighting condition. Also, do you want them completely gone or do you want "phantoms"? If you want them completely gone, 3 mins bulb should do the trick most of the time, maybe bordering on overkill... heck, even 30 secs is enough already.

Most of my phantoms need nothing more than 2-3 secs anyway. And yes, sometimes you'll have this one guy/girl who decides to stand still thoughout your exposure anyway lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 28 2014, 08:30 PM

Prefer completely gone... Thx for the tips...

Sounds like you need those phones that let you remove object from a scene. Smart removal or something. I think Asus smart phones have it as well as other major brands