i dunno, try looking around in ur area, go ask for quotation. go to those shops which sells mainly car audio products, they will know wat to do. where do u live btw? if KL, there is KF audio and Lau Stereo but they r a lil expensive. for ur speaker's installation, it does not need hi expertise.

This post has been edited by ckmoy007: Nov 21 2008, 03:05 PM

no la, if workmanship gud, it won't look ugly, they will match it with ur door. it appears to be a bulge of 2 inches at the door. it won't interfere with ur driving. usually they use MDF wood. those more customised ones use carbon fibre panel. just go to the shop and ask how does it look like or any mods need to be done.

bridging is connecting 2 channel making it into 1 single channel for more power. look at the first page of this thread for more info about bridge.

actually speakers can be put in many places, just see if it looks nice there or not onli. i've been banging my door(old car) for years and nothing is wrong so far.

actually the rear no need component set, it's a waste of money. just stock speaker will do.

u mean monster cables, quite expensive right? dunno, but most probably i will go for these brands, stinger, DLS, DAXX and tchernov audio.

wireworld too exp for me. i'm looking for klotz clarity 5000. got an offer for stinger sx17 expert series for rm100 new, oso bought a 1F stinger cap w/o voltmeter for rm70 used 1yr, lol... cheap or not?

in this case, to protect ur HU from power surge esp. when u turn on engine. just like UPS for coms.

haha, a system without bass then. no HU can power a sub, maybe u can have the proc. functions but i really doubt it will give u a clear and nice sound. so the verdict is no... must be with amp.
actually if we think properly, our stock system oso direct from HU to speakers, do we call it active system? i really doubt it.

i assume dat u r going to setup ur system 4 going loud, would recommend u to use the 4 channel for front and rear, and get another monoblock or 2ch amp for ur sub.

no la, it's just about power matching. meaning like a 2ch amp (2x100w rms @ 4ohm, 2x200w @ 2ohm), when bridged might get example, 400w rms @ 4ohm. while a monoblock, take an example, DLS Ultimate A6, it produces ~500w rms@4ohm, 780@2ohm and 1200@1ohm. i think in most cases, a 2ch amp will be cheaper than a monoblock, see the logic there? 2ch to power a single voice coil @ 4 ohm is a cheaper way, not to say monoblock can't do the job. just that monoblock is designed to handle low ohm and more power, so ppl might think it's a waste to use a monoblock @ 4ohm.

sound produced might be different, 2ch is class AB while monoblock are mostly class D, altho some are class AB like DLS A6. some says there are noticeable difference in SQ, provided if u have a gud system, or else u will onli hear bass and no difference. if u r using entry lvl setup, a 2ch will be sufficient for a SVC 4ohm sub.

dun see any problem in that.

Dynaudio lacks of midbass? seems like it's ur amp or installation problem? shud be able to play from 60Hz without any problem.

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Added on April 1, 2009, 5:53 pmmind to tell us who are u getting these stuffs from? cos there are some that alwez sell fake stuffs. just pm me.

This post has been edited by ckmoy007: Apr 1 2009, 05:53 PM

SQ wise, it's not advisable to put a speaker at the rear cos it will disturb the front's imaging. unless u can tune the rear speakers to a level where it's not audible to the front then ok.

my suggestion plan C:
1.the old amp used to push one 10" woofer (one is enough for me the other one take out - change box)
2.1 used comp set around RM500
3.rear leave empty or use HU to power stock speaker. if put 6x9 will cancel off the bass of ur woofer.
4.a used ~RM500 2 channel amp for the front.
5.sell off 1 of the woofer and the 6x9 to get more money for ur project.

last question, wats ur preference? SQ or SPL? and ur total budget is?

SQ = Sound Quality, SPL = Sound Pressure Level.
SQ is u like to listen to nice music while SPL is for everyone to hear, the boom boom style. to make it simple, SQ is Quality, SPL is Quantity.
rm700... u can get that GTO but u won't have spare cash to get an amp for it. for rm700, i think u can ask zennn to help u find a focal access.

why not skip the mariola amp, power using HU first. save up for a gud amp straight. no need to waste money on the cap ayam amp. if u buy it, most prolly after u get ur better amp, it will rust in the store room unless u selling it for rm50 or less, lol. no offense bro. just a piece of advice.

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Added on May 14, 2009, 3:32 amimho, adding an amp will still make difference. for sub selection, in ur case is the power and ohm matching with the amp. if u plan to use the 4ch amp bridged for it, i would suggest a Single Voice Coil(SVC) 4 ohm sub dat rated almost the same as the output of ur amp. e.g. amp(4x50W rms @ 4ohm, 2x200W@ 4ohm bridged), i would suggest a 250W rms or less SVC sub. 10" or 12" depending on ur need and space available in ur boot la.

This post has been edited by ckmoy007: May 14 2009, 03:32 AM

oic, 880 for the comp alone? i think it's a little overpriced. perhaps u can consider my boston acoustics. confirm tak kalah the GTO, at least when i bought it, compared with alpine type R and DLS R6A and i chose this at last. if 880 including the sub and box then it's worth it la. ori or not, of course i can't tell u. if the shop is selling genuine products i.e. authorized dealer, then shud not be a problem.

depends on the quality of the amp and style of listening. i've known ppl using a 2 x 30W rms amp to power a 220W rms tweeter, and it doesn't sound bad. but on the other hand, powering the midbass and sub will need adequate power to perform at its max. so it also depends on ur application. but from my experience, 50W rms is quite enuf for a 70W rms speaker. unless u playing SPL, for normal listening 50W rms is gud enuf d.