QUOTE(llaw @ Dec 10 2014, 10:46 PM)
LOL!LYN Proton INSPIRA Owners and Fans Thread V66!, Source of low traffic: goo.gl/ZRQcSd
LYN Proton INSPIRA Owners and Fans Thread V66!, Source of low traffic: goo.gl/ZRQcSd
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Dec 10 2014, 10:52 PM
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#41
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Dec 10 2014, 11:29 PM
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#42
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Dec 12 2014, 10:36 AM
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#43
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Dec 12 2014, 11:32 AM
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#44
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QUOTE(ffrulz @ Dec 12 2014, 10:59 AM) 6 months. Used car, mileage currently 114k. And this model year has the most problems with the concentric slave cylinder bearing giving up. MY2011. ah i see thanks for the info.Symptoms now is full biting point is higher than before and you can feel there's significantly lesser bite from the clutch when you fully release it. Checked master cylinder reservoir and fluid still max and no leaks. Haven't tested the 3rd gear slowly let out until it stalls trick to diagnose cause takut later do this the whole pad give up the ghost. But generally 100k is when the clutch has to be changed for preventive maintenance I believe. Just that wanted to save up a bit first before spending 1k+ on the clutch + pressure plate + csc + slave cylinder replacement. btw i thought the going pricing is near to or ~2k+ lol |
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Dec 12 2014, 01:55 PM
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#45
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Dec 12 2014, 02:12 PM
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#46
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Dec 12 2014, 02:25 PM
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#47
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QUOTE(woe.com @ Dec 12 2014, 02:22 PM) last time learn undang undang time tat who who teach us how change tyre, put coolant dun put water, engine oil, brake oil, gear oil, he also got mentioned clutch lifespan is 80-100k? not meh? if wrong i need re-take undang undang jor i give back teacher liao lo... so N years ago lol... |
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Dec 12 2014, 04:37 PM
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#48
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QUOTE(mytmnet @ Dec 12 2014, 04:34 PM) My Savvy under my use, change clutch kit at 140K KM. 70k km vs 140k km lol...My Savvy under my sister son use, need to change at 210K KM I am hitting 70K km now well i do drive under traffic jam a LOT, and tend to feather the clutch a bit especially on 1st/2nd gear to reduce jerking |
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Dec 12 2014, 06:08 PM
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#49
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Dec 12 2014, 06:21 PM
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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Dec 12 2014, 06:18 PM) i think so inilah dia:as for y it test at 400c, i think is to accelerate the aging process of the engine oil instead of normal engine working temperature <140c QUOTE According to my friend, a motoring journalist in Singapore who did a report on engine lubricant oils, the reason for the particles in the oil is the addition of detergent solutions which can't take the high heat. So it's a trade off if you want more durable oils in your engine but without the detergent cleaning effects. for EO to last longer, high detergent is required. and from the tests, the ones that are clean are loaded with detergent for high drain intervals. journalist nvm about 1k+ km my UOA will come out also better than burning EO at 400c which our engine won't ever go anyways =edit= on your edit, that's probably the objective, however i don't think it's a feasible approach as different additives does react differently towards various temperatures as opposed to "aging properly" (be it long intervals, carbon and what not) or maybe i'm just defensive because 300v turned to shit This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 12 2014, 06:23 PM |
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Dec 12 2014, 07:13 PM
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Dec 14 2014, 09:20 PM
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#52
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Dec 14 2014, 09:21 PM
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#53
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Dec 15 2014, 09:17 AM
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#54
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QUOTE(archonixm @ Dec 15 2014, 09:15 AM) Change to 4b12, use same fd and 1st gear ratio...then full throttle, then gear drive patah? can happen? still need to ask, you very hopeless |
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Dec 15 2014, 10:19 AM
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#55
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Dec 15 2014, 10:19 AM
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Dec 15 2014, 02:23 PM
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Dec 15 2014, 02:24 PM
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Dec 15 2014, 05:17 PM
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Dec 16 2014, 11:09 AM
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