bought new car? what discount you gotten if you don't mind? managed to get proton staff price? (rumor flying on them disposing old inspira stocks which are cheaper than the price i've gotten)

i changed my gear oil at around 1700km because hard to shift also.
no point frustrated over gear shifts that takes away the joy in driving

nice bro got body kit

GL3/4 are compatible among each other, GL5/6 is not (good example of higher number != better) due to EP (extreme pressure) additives that may harm soft/yellow metals (eg: copper/brass) in synchromesh/synchronizer applications.
EP loaded GL5/GL6 are mainly for non synchromesh transmissions, differentials and so on unless otherwise specified on GL4 compatibility.

i personally recommend the viscosity that manufacturer specified unless on exceptional usage such as high speed for prolonged periods or high track/motorsport usage which higher viscosity is preferred.

something to take note: despite my usages, my watery Red Line MTL (75w80) report came out OK.
i've actually compiled a list of 75w80 GL4 gear oils previous which you're free to search up.

to make your life simpler, it'll be either red line MTL or amsoil synchromesh (i still got 2 additional bottles of MTL so i can't switch to amsoil immediately) for full synthetics
motul is semi syn:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1328624012
and very expensive (for being semi anyways)

http://paultan.org/2015/01/27/mitsubishi-m...various-models/

too bad i have no interest in replacing my thunder cat logo

that applies to the logos outside

spec require 75w80 you use double the viscosity AND GL6 with EP additives? good luck to your F5MBB

proton either uses that, or mitsubishi diaqueen (or repacked mitsubishi diaqueen).

tranself is mainly for Savvy

Red Lines? should be in the rm50-60 ish/liter.
i would still highly recommend MTL over the higher viscosity if you're not hard driving your car a lot.

You go dig my previous post la

Zhapalang Kepong sells all the oils I mentioned

I think he's trying to say he's damn fast la.

But he didn't realize there's someone else that uses super thin according to spec viscosity gear oil that reach Singapore from KL in less than 2 hours and sent said oil to USA laboratories for verification which even those guys said the oil is Ok even after being in a very watery state that's hard to shift after heat /hard driving.

So, lol.

Nice pricing. Btw only need 3 bottle, about 2.5 liters or less required.

wa ini bully

60 km/h can mou?

point being, there is absolutely no issue using thin viscosity oil, and there is no reason to go for thicker, non compatible specification oils when the thin viscosity oil will do fine.

i personally changed my fluid out because i was going to enter Sepang back in December and i wouldn't want to risk screwing up my gearbox. The oil lab reports came out end of January as i was waiting for my engine oil as well to save on shipping cost.

tldr: good luck on your F5MBB; higher rating, more expensive may not necessarily be better.

no worries running 100k km too id reckon; and gb won't die, synchros die only
supposedly if you rev match damn awesome, no worries if no synchros

i think you're having some misunderstanding here.
the hard to shift part is only after my KL > Singapore (one time) Singapore > KL (another time)
in which after the oil cooled down, everything returned to normal.

and imho keeping the car over 220km/h for over an hour isn't something one should (or can do) do all the time.
unless you're going to such serious driving (umm, assume you go 220 for 9 minutes at lekas la, that's still not 1 hour ya) you really have no reason to require much thicker viscosity gear oil.

and at the end of the day, i'm trying to point out to you GL6 gear oils are NOT suitable for our F5MBB gear box.
that's the bottom line story thicker or thinner viscosity aside.
Torco themselves have never specifically mentioned their SGO being compatible to soft/yellow metals as well that are friendly for synchronizers.

It's not a matter of lower viscosity or higher viscosity being better or worse.
not even a matter of style or rally or F1.
not even a matter of how fast (or slow) one shifts.
i'm not even a professional driver (i certainly make 0 cents from my track driving) to begin with much less a F1 driver.

It's merely following specifications that Mitsubishi specified . (you know, the guys who spent years/billions in R&D etc and i think they should know their car/parts better than any of us)

another FYI, i'm pretty new in driving manual, and i've sat in low gears oftenly be it lazy or noob to shift, so you can imagine the amount of fuel cuts bouncing off the 7k+ rpm meter point.
Then there's the huge amount of gear grinds i've done to the gearbox and from what the report i've seen, the wear is still surprisingly not as high as expected.

again, higher (or more expensive) does not necessarily mean better.

ask people go your second home play, i give him 5 corners max to see your tail lamp
i think after 2 corner i also cannot see your tail lamp jor

especially when you've tapau'd Evo x like nothing.

how he give way? you so fast in front of him some more 1 lane road cannot overtake laaaaa
straight fast no use la, enter corner only your tail lamp vanish

early preview:
if you don't know how to read, ppm are in microscopic level contained within the oil.
in other words, the wear isn't as high as one may thing:


and really, if can not change anything be it the synchros or actual gears, why not?

just waiting for the day nzh0920 enter Sepang push under 3 minutes where i have failed

ya because i expressed huge concerns over my numerous gear grinds from very noob shifting and the 2 hard shift incidents and the watery gear oil nature.

i've been told that such wear isn't that unusual for harsh usage, being only second oil (i changed out the oil that came with the gearbox at 1700 km)

notice the report ya, only copper is out of the mark, and guess where those are from?
i wouldn't want to imagine using a gear oil with EP additives that would potentially accelerate wear of it

just wondering, do you have part list/price list for the synchros? would be very interested in knowing them.
after all, 80 ppm (not even visible to eye mind you )copper was showed, who knows i'd need to replace them too

from outside see relax lo, driver himself very stress/tension la lol...

at least that's what my kaki all said. since i sweat like pig easily, they always said i too kancheong

good la smooth like butter