Later they tell u run 700km

All car hydraulic power steering itu macam. Vibration need more info. What incident happen and the vibration starts

Rpm reading?
Idle with N or D?

Standard quote... Top speed berapa

lu mia top speed berapa?

what ECU does?

ECU have all the program to control ur engine from spraying fuel to spark plug ignition to mivec controls.

There are a few inputs and outputs to the ECU, mainly the inputs will be.. Throttle position sensor, o2 sensors, crank sensors, cam sensors, air flow sensors, knock sensors and etc.

Output will be throttle body valve servo, mivec adjustment valve, injectors, spark plugs..

basically the ecu has all the reference in the ecu memory itself. At what rpm, what load, whats the air temperature, how much throttle opening.. It will calculate base on the reference (or more commonly known as map) and fire the spark n fuel injector accordingly.

So what is closed loop or open loop?

Closed loop, the ecu will read the feedback from the sensors and make it adjustment accordingly. To make it as close as what is being commanded by the ecu. (the output is not always same as the commanded, example u ask it to do a AFR 13.5, but the output maybe 12.5, so the ecu will reduce the fuel injected to try to get it to 13.5).

Open loop, the ecu does not care the actual output, it will juz fire according to the map. Some ecu can have both state.. At WOT (wide open throttle, it will go open loop, something like that)

Now.. What is Remap? What is piggyback? What is standalone ecu??

Remap, a process to optimize the "reference table" within the map.

why some car can be remap and others cant?
Now, think that the ecu is a computer. The map is stored inside a CD within the computer. Some computer comes with Cd burner some only comes with cD reader. Those with CD reader wont be able to rewrite the content within the CD. And the CD must be a Rewritable type. So what does rechip means? Rechip is replacing the CD with a different CD (altered content)

What is piggyback?
Piggyback is a computer that is plug to alter the infomation send out by the ecu itself. Says the ecu wanted to spray 10ml of fuel so it send the command to the injector, but it is change to something else by the piggyback says 12ml. Layman term the piggy need to work alongside of the original ecu.

Now the problem. Becoz ecu runs in closed loops nowadays, the information alter by the piggyback will cause a diff output. Example AFR will be richer.. But the ecu is expecting it to be leaner.. the feedback recieve by the ecu is diff hence it try to adjust itself to get the correct figures.. Slowly it will offset it back to normal. Worst case is the tune get too much of a diff the ecu cant return it back to normal it will think there is problem with the sensors hence throwing engine error codes..

U break it sure waranty void lo

Why some Shop recommend Piggyback instead of Remap ? Emanage, etc etc

inside the ECU there is 1MB of Hex code, different map ID have different address for ignition timing, mivec controls, afr, throttle control, etc. The 1MB memory also consist of the program of how to run the engine, as well as how to communicated through the OBD2 port.

Messing it up will result in a BRICK ECU. Most Shop does not know how to trace which address for which configuration. They also worry it will mess up the immobilizer and the program. Hence they will offer to use piggyback better.

Piggyback comes with software to install in the computer to alter the setting easily. Thats why most shop prefer this.

It is always good to tackle the problem from the source.. not alter the information once it is churn out. That is why remap is always better.

u dont need 6 months.. but AFAIK there are some piggyback that can tap the return signal to the ECU as well .. to trick the ECU that it is running FINE. But most DONT, they just alter the output from the ECU instead of the Input.

WilliamHoo has experience with BOT last time. They add on piggyback were meant to alter fuel injection and advance timing only. when boost boost boost.. CEL (Check Engine LIght) .. will comes ON .. hooray .. that is because there is a torque limiter mapping within the ecu to control the amount of torque being output from the engine, by BOT you successfully increase the amount of torque over 100% (NA) .. the ecu trying to retard it to get it back below 100% but the piggy just ignore it.. hence ECU says something is not right.. CEL

Put it this way.. the build in map have both the high side and the low side.. on stock .. let says the ignition timing.. let says the min is -10 while the max is +10 at 3000rpm at 100% load (just fix the 3000rpm and the 100% load now.. we want to focus on the -10 to +10 now)..

so let says at that RPM speed the ecu are running +5 which works well with the Ron95. (no knocking) .. if the ecu detects more than 6 knocks in a row, it will drop the timing to +4 .. all the way to -10 if require..

So at +5 .. the ecu send out the signal ..
well , the Piggy does not really give an output as mention, instead it ALTER what was sent out.. says +3 in piggy.. so the ECU +5 out .. halfway piggy pickup .. becomes +5+3 = + 8.. eeehahaaa.. u getting more power.. but actually it started to knock .. so the ecu will bring down the timing .. become +4+3 = +7 ... still knock ... become +3+3 = +6... still knock .. bring down further .. become +2+3 = +5 .. (Congrates you are back to square 1)..

The example above is for NORMAL condition.. says now u BOT with piggyback .. DYNO tune for a few hours.. the ecu try to retard the timing to fit the BOT .. let says the range -10 to +10 .. the ecu have readjust itself to run at -8 to compensate the BOT ... but at piggyback u push says +10 to get the most out of it
-8 + 10 = +2 ..
so when initial it start to run .. not fully boosting no issue.. the ecu will even try to get better timing..
but when full boost comes.. the ecu suppose to run it -8 ... but the piggy keep pushing -8 + 10 = +2
so ecu retard to -9 + 10 = +1 .. still knock ..
retard further .. -10 + 10 = 0 .. still knock .. (at this moment .. the ecu runs to the minimum timing -10 already, it cant go further down anymore.. so it turns on the check engine light .. faulty)



This post has been edited by K3nnYkl82: Jan 30 2015, 12:19 PM

Shop wan cari makan ma.
Takkan tell u dun buy my things no good one..

ngam ngam got ppl ask why remap not piggyback ma..

not that piggyback not good.. not good for CLOSED LOOP systems.. which most car is nowadays .. due to emission standards

I wont be there for tonight. Not sure got tT mou

Rm1.70!!

Fucuk!

Plan to pump my mini altis this morning..
Want stop by caltex.. Run out of MON95! Fark!
Apa pun tala..

Bigger or smaller i wont switch to 97 for sure ..

dont waste ur money la..
it does makes any difference..

the manufacturer tune the car to moderate spec only.
even those like us modded kau kau .. inclusive of 2.0 engines .. will only benefit slightly on high rev.. unless u go for high compression piston..

most the time i drive max 4k ++ .. once a while sprint to 6k .. that is really once a while.. so for me .. pouring in addition RM0.30 per litre .. its not for cheapskates

welcome to malaysia... rumours will make everything worth .. lolz

i heard stuff like MON la...
then got Ron97 cleaner la
got more power la..
this and that..

if you are using shell Ron95 against Shell vpower.. then u might feel the diff.. is not becoz of the Ron .. but the addictive added to the fuel itself.

my 2 cents worth of opinion.. fark it... RM0.30 for 50 litres is .. Rm15.
not to mention no diff on daily drive..

per starbucks per full tank ..

Now Rm1.70 .. my effect cost per km is about RM0.16 ....
i think my mini altis should be RM0.13

u need to average out to get the actual figure.. sometimes less jam.. sometimes more heat .

even ron95 .. i can sometimes get 10km/L .. sometimes 12km/L ..
1km differences i will take tat as a variance.. not enough to convince me the petrol give more milleage..

and there is something i notice.. when i pump 97 .. i tend to look at the meter all the time to justify the milleage as well (myth busting that time) .. i can tell u .. physcologically u try to be light footed a bit .. thats why that time i pump 97 .. i purposely ignore.. and tekan like normal.. and i can tell u .. at most .. 0.5km diff... neglectable

most the time i get the refuel blink at 460-470km .. (KL traffic) ..
when im on 97 that time.. i think 480+ .. does not justify the extra millege at all

u need to consider the evaporation as well..
last time when i drive my putra.. bloody hell when im at proton plant ..(project site.. ) .. FC was farking terrible.. i was wondering why... after the project ended.. fc back to normal.. hell yeah .. very huge difference.. full tank can be 50km diff... HUGE open space.. with car park under HOT SUN all day long..