can i ask, how much roughly the air cond radiator fan cost?
the one sucking air frm condenser
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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Mar 4 2015, 08:28 PM
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#1
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can i ask, how much roughly the air cond radiator fan cost?
the one sucking air frm condenser |
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Mar 10 2015, 08:01 PM
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#2
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hi all bro
i jz changed my air cond blower motor to new one...but somehow the blower also not strong enuf to blow till back passenger...hardly feel any aircond air/wind at back even infront the cold air is just sufficient to cool down front seat.... is this normal? need help coz weather is killing my passenger at back |
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Mar 11 2015, 08:32 AM
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#3
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Mar 11 2015, 12:21 PM
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#4
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Aug 1 2015, 09:25 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 30 2015, 07:31 PM) If you want to just inspect the condition of the earthing for the headlamps, bro, iswara 97 meter light not working, i change the bulb also...i think is the wiring..anyway to solve this? change whole set wiring?from the information in Haynes manual, I believe the earth is directly under the respective headlamp, on the bracket for mounting Iswara bumper (LMST bumper is attached differently but the bracket is still there). But if you want to access it for tightening, you need to remove the headlamp. Note that all earth wires are to the chassis only, and the final link to the battery earth is the black/yellow wire which need to be inspected too. |
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Aug 2 2015, 01:19 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Aug 1 2015, 10:22 PM) I have not encountered this problem before, but I think i worry if they modify the wiring like that, later short circuit.my whole car got burn down it is not necessary to replace the whole wiring harness. Probably the mechanic just add in a new wire to tap a nearby source and connect to the socket at the instrument meter cluster, or some other bypass wire, depending on where the problem is. It is necessary to check whether the problem is at the the supply side, or at the return to earth. Best let the mechanic handle this. Are the lights at the radio, lighter, air-cond control also not working? What about the tail lights, the small lights at the headlamp? You said you changed the bulbs, all the 4 black ones as shown below? yes the lights at radio, ligheter aircond all working..tail lights and small lights working too yes as the bulb is changed as shown at the picture |
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Nov 10 2015, 05:26 PM
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any user 4g13 carburetor change to efi(fuel injection)
pls advise if this can be done and how? price? |
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Nov 14 2015, 06:20 PM
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Jan 19 2016, 08:26 PM
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#9
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hi all sifu sifu
this fuel gauge meter problem been long time around and really annoying. Can I know the reason behind the jumping of meter gauge(up and down when car is moving) ? is the fuel gauge meter problem or fuel float problem? if its the fuel gauge design problem then i can swap it with rvr or mirage turbo meter as per research |
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Jan 19 2016, 08:54 PM
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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Jan 19 2016, 08:36 PM) Just swap with a rvr meter , solve the stupid problematic proton meter . but to fit it in require hell alot of work trimming the plastic , and wiring . but worth the effort😊 bro, the wiring cut n sambung only right(same colour wire) ? trying to DIY myself |
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Aug 13 2016, 11:05 PM
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#11
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want to ask
my car very high fuel consumption, previously using ngv. now dekit using back petrol reful 31litre only can run below 210km mixture of city 60; 40 highway drive hard to find honest foreman to tune my carb... i found one on mudah selling vdo efi kit for rm500+installation 350 + fuel tank 150 is it worth the money for change? |
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Aug 14 2016, 12:21 AM
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#12
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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Aug 13 2016, 11:18 PM) Get mmc kit . Vdo can be a pain in the ass if stuff went wrong , and conversion into saga can be a few problem , our meter doesnt have built in speed sensor, vdo will pop out check light and it will drop in to limp mood . And needed a obd port for diagnostic which will be a problem if the check light bounce out . Dont get me wrong , vdo system is superior to mmc , better possessor , boarder mapping . But in our case better stick to simplier mmc . Less hassle lead to lesser headache thanks for input mate..but mmc kit are hard to get plus is much more expensiv any advise for current carburetor? |
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Aug 24 2016, 10:59 AM
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#13
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Aug 24 2016, 09:37 AM) I have not adjusted before, and was also puzzled by the different settings. But hi, i have recently adjusted my air/fuel ratio after much googling it . two turn and half outwards frm the starting point (screw in to the max), the exhaust produce slight water vapour on my hand when its ram the pedal 3-4k rpm.anyway this is a preliminary setting, need to fine tune later with engine running and using CO meter. Logically speaking. should be ok to do it outside and then fit the whole thing back on the carburettor provided this do not change the setting. However I am not sure, you need to experiment. How will you determine the final setting (i.e. CO level etc)? ====update===== looking at the data, the given settings have a +/-0.7mm tolerance, so I think should follow Haynes 4.1mm setting. will test the fuel consumption this week sifu, want to ask...my car early morning after start abit shaky...rpm5-600 rpm and its abit hard to move the car...feels like choking when i step the pedal to move the car....whats wrong with my car? is it auto choke? do you have picture of it? |
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Aug 24 2016, 02:30 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Aug 24 2016, 01:38 PM) At least you have tuned your carb, I have not attempted yet. BTW what tool you take a unused old spark plug...the head of the spark plug got one bended metal tip...use a plier to make it straight...use the straight metal tip now to plug into the air fuel ratio screw...turn in ward or outward accordingly.used to turn the screw ? I read that special tool is required. (BTW I am no sifu, I learned a lot from the members' comments here). From what I know, the idle speed for cold engine should be something like 2,500 rpm (see attached Aisan specs translated from Russian). It is possible your autochoke is faulty, see example attached below for one of the members here. According to Aisan manual the enrichment rod is supposed to move out by 2.9 - 4.1 mm when hot. hmm, that auto choke part seems moulded to the carburetor? can be repair? i got another carburetor at home...but that carburetor got some problem...if this auto choke is removable den i can take it from the carburetor at home... |
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Aug 24 2016, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Aug 24 2016, 04:14 PM) The autochoke (aka compensator) is not moulded to the carburettor, it can be thanks bro, will try do diy replace whole or repaired with repair kits. https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...entry56384094 forum member fishncatz has done his own repairs, see : https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72067883 Mitsubishi manual is also attached below. |
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Sep 19 2016, 10:29 PM
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hi bro
i notice when i driving my iswara towards smoke area..it seems that the outside smoke smell came in my cabin...i wonder whats wrong? like it comes in directly (fully) i see my aircond switch only inside air i suspect outside air directly come in...any sifu can help me |
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Sep 21 2016, 09:43 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 20 2016, 10:00 AM) From what I understand the outside air is never totally shut off. hi bro, thanks for reply...from the pics itself i suspect the fresh/reciculate door spoil..i wonder where is this? inside the blower motor housing? Even if your air-cond is set to "recirculate" position, the air vents are not totally sealed off from outside air. It is designed to let in some air, otherwise the CO2 levels will rise dangerously (and oxygen gets depleted) after some time. The air vents at the C pillar will generate some suction due to the air flow to help remove stale air. According to the book (attached) the partial intake provides positive pressure to ensure exhaust gases are not sucked in. http://www.cartalk.com/content/recirculate...ne-steak-dinner |
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Oct 3 2016, 11:40 AM
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hi all,
yesterday nite jz swap my carb auto choke with one bought from half cut shop...previously was very vibrating in the morning with low rpm 2-3xx and choking to move the car unless i ramm the throttle hard for 1 mins... so this morning i start the car, it is still vibrating 6-7xx rpm...but i got no choking to move the car...i guess i solve the auto choke problem but i think i need help on the rpm tuning.....can i know whats the factory setting? cold start rpm shud be at 1300-1500 rpm? then after warm up 1-2mins rpm drop to 9-1000 rpm? if this correct then i shud adjust the rpm idle screw? if yes during cold start up or during after car warm up? |
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Oct 4 2016, 10:30 AM
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#19
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 3 2016, 06:41 PM) According to the Aisan manual (in Russian, translated see attached) Hi bro, thanks for replyCold idle = 2,700 (+/-200) rpm, Hot idle = 800 (+/-50) rpm. Each is adjusted during the respective cold or hot stage. When engine is cold, the cold fast idle should automatically override the hot idle. The cold fast idle is as attached. Hot idle screw is the one up-side-down at an angle, on the left side of the carburetor. BTW, did you changed the autochoke by yourself? im abit confused, cold idle the rpm shud be at 2700 rpm? and then the hot idle at 800 pm? meaning during morning cold start i need to adjust the idle screw till 2700 rpm? my dad help me changed it it was quite easy to dismantle it, 3 screws only. but u have to make sure the casket is applied with gasket gam before u put it back |
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May 23 2017, 01:20 PM
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#20
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Bro all. How much to replace air cond condenser fan...mine seems weak...hence aircond not cold...been many years din change it...rexommwnd me place as well in kl....dunw cut throat one pls
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