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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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coolguy_0925
post Oct 29 2020, 10:52 PM

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Hey everyone

Just done one major surgery for my LMST

- Front absorber + mounting rubber 1 pair
- Lower arm + satay bush 1 pair
- Water pump, timing belt & aircon belt

Damage: RM740 rclxub.gif
coolguy_0925
post Oct 30 2020, 01:40 PM

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A few more things that I need to change for my LMST

- Right drive shaft can see block colour oil leaking, lifespan reached

- Metal pipes for radiator showing rust especially the one for choke, in fact it is already gone case and the mechanic temporarily bypass / sealed the hole for choke pipe

- Aircon fan speed 1 and 2 no respond, only 3 and 4 blowing

Can any sifu enlighten

1. What if the leaking drive shaft is not replaced for a prolonged timeframe, say for 6 months? The leaking oil is from where?

2. What problem could arise if the choke is bypassed? Can't start in the morning?

3. What could be the issue for aircon fan speed 1 and 2 no respond but 3 and 4 blowing? What has to be replaced?

TQVM biggrin.gif
coolguy_0925
post Oct 30 2020, 06:02 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 30 2020, 05:21 PM)
Drive shaft
Is the leak at the wheel side or the gearbox side?
Because the wheel side is the grease leaking from
the rubber boot which is broken, and the CV joint
will start making noises soon. If from gearbox side,
it is gear oil - very serious. Are you sure it is not
brake fluid?
Bypass choke
As I understand the carb choke function, if you
cut off the radiator water flow to the choke,
the choke will never switch to warm position as
the engine warms up. The strong spring will
jam it at the cold position, resulting in rich mixture
and bigger throttle opening.
*
Hi Albert

The drive shaft leak stain can be seen on the lower arm so I assume it is at the wheel side?
coolguy_0925
post Oct 30 2020, 08:01 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 30 2020, 07:45 PM)
Yes it is wheel side. It is most likely
the CV joint boot (rubber cover) is broken,
(which is a common occurrence) and the
grease inside has leaked out. Turn your
steering to the fullest either way and look
inside, do you see the thing as in the
attached photo?

If so, better get your mechanic to repair it;
I am not sure if he will just replace the boot,
or the CV joint, or the whole shaft.

If you don't see it as in the above, it could be
brake fluid hose leak which is dangerous, better
let the mechanic look at it ASAP.
*
Okay will check it out tmr

When the mechanic was replacing the lower arm I asked him about the leak then he told me it was the drive shaft lifespan reached

So I asked him if not replaced dangerous or not

He said no the most the oil will leak finish only rclxub.gif

Can replace later which he told me about RM200+

He was too busy yesterday perhaps
coolguy_0925
post Dec 13 2022, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 11 2015, 03:28 PM)
See photo below.

The plastic socket connector may disintegrate when you unplug it (happened in my case).
*
My LMST radiator fan is not spinning despite radiator is hot and I plan to replace the sensor to see if it is the culprit

Do I just unscrew the old sensor and screw in the new one?

And how do I connect the plastic connector back? Both the connector and the sensor is like a L shape

My bad as I disconnected it and did not take notice before doing it
coolguy_0925
post Dec 14 2022, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 14 2022, 01:15 PM)
1) I think the one you disconnected is the temperature sensor that is located on the intake manifold. That one  is not the one controlling the fan, it is just to show the temperature on the display. The connector is the male type on the sensor, the female is inside the plastic plug, just push it back in, see photo below.

2) The fan control circuit is separate from the display one mentioned above. It consists of the thermo switch at the radiator bottom, relay in the fuse box, and the fan at the radiator, see photos below. Any of these could be the faulty one.
(no fuse is used in the circuit).

3) To troubleshoot, open the fuse box, feel the relay on the top left when the fan is supposed to start. If there is a click (sometimes can be heard), then the sensor and relay are ok, and the fan may be faulty. If there is no click, could be the thermo switch or the relay. You can test the relay by interchanging with the power window relay next to it.
*
Hi Albert

Good to see you back and thanks for your reply

Ya I was worried if I reconnect it back wrongly, not too sure how to put it... 180 degree / upside down the sensor won't work but I guess as long as connected it will work? Since my dashboard is still displaying the temp bars I guess it is biggrin.gif

Today mechanic got an hour to spare for me so I drove my car to his workshop to get it solved

Tested fan motor not working so got it changed to a new APM motor together with thermo switch, and he threw away the thermostat

The fan is spinning fast now

Total damage RM250 sweat.gif

Next to do but need to wait for him to be free

1. Steering column, not sure the whole column or partial because the rubber dropped and the steering will wobble up and down. For now I just pushed the rubber back whenever it wobbles

2. Not sure what is the iron casting part called (the part that the temp sensor for display is screwed into) he said need to be replaced and need time to source since spare part is scarce now
coolguy_0925
post Dec 15 2022, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 14 2022, 10:11 PM)
The connection wiring for the temperature sensor is a single line 12V supply, so it does not matter if the plug is rotated. If the plastic have disintegrated, you can use electrical insulation tape to protect the exposed plug from shorts.

Did the mechanic say why the intake manifold need to be replaced? Is it leaking or some bolt thread was damaged?
*
IINM it is due to rust

When opened up the part to throw thermostat the inside has a layer of mud or rust like color deposit

Radiator also flushed out some when changing the thermo switch

This post has been edited by coolguy_0925: Dec 15 2022, 01:56 PM
coolguy_0925
post Dec 17 2022, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 16 2022, 09:59 PM)
1) The casting for the intake manifold is quite thick, so rust will not likely corrode through. The concern will  be the rust jamming up the radiator etc.

2) Did the mechanic add coolant additive (green) to the water? The original Proton coolant  is quite effective in preventing rust.

3) A replacement manifold will likely be from a used-part supplier, and it is going to cost some $$$, and also the condition of the used parts may be no better than your presently using manifold.
*
1) I recalled when I sent the car for another radiator workshop for leaking he told me some parts that are connecting the radiator rubber hose are corroded and very hard to fix the rubber hose and might not be able to hold the rubber hose if corrosion worsen. Not sure is that part of this intake manifold.

2) I don't think he added coolant as he only filled in pipe water. Guess I better add in myself as I saw Proton ori blue color coolant for 1L is only like RM25 to RM30. Is 1L enough for the car or required more? And should I avoid pipe water and buy those 5L distilled water to mix instead?

3) Not sure where he is gonna source it from but he did tell me have to order and the item excl. labor will be about RM350. He said if can't source then need to weld with aluminium which will be expensive as well.
coolguy_0925
post Dec 19 2022, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 18 2022, 08:23 PM)
1) Below is the location of the possible hose connections that have corrosion problems. The inset photo is hose connection that was uneven at the point where the hose is supposed to grip the metal pipe and was leaking. The mechanic used a conical grinder to smoothen it, and I think he added some filler. Now it is ok. Teh small hoses are for the autochoke, the medium size one is for the cabin heater for cold countries.

2) Yes, you  should add coolant additive for maximum protection, and use distilled (battery water) to eliminate possibility of hard water minerals. Otherwise the corrosion will start all over again.
*
1) I think IINM my car the corrosion also at the insert photo. The radiator workshop told me if further worsen the hose will have no place to grip anymore. My autochoke hose also disconnected due to corrosion and my mechanic sealed the hole with a screw and some special glue temporarily.

2) Can you advise how many litre of coolant should I add?

By the way, is thermostat necessary? (P/S: I don't start my car that often in early morning)

Thank you thumbsup.gif
coolguy_0925
post Dec 20 2022, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 19 2022, 07:13 PM)
1) Looks like the corrosion have eaten the connection piping. When you have replaced the manifold, the autochoke hoses should be restored because it is necessary for the correct air-fuel mixture according to the temperature of the engine.

2) Below are the relevant extracts from the Iswara/LMST manuals. The total coolant in the system is 5 litres, the manual says use 20% concentration i.e. 20% x 5 litres = 1 litre which is 1 bottle of the Proton product.

3) The thermostat helps to quicken the warm up of engine , and also control the operating temperature more accurately .
*
The mechanic did tell me the autochoke hoses will be restored after the manifold replacement

Thanks for your advice on coolant & thermostat
coolguy_0925
post Jul 21 2024, 10:18 PM

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Is fully synthetic engine oil suitable for 2005 Iswara / Saga LMST?

Actually my car just suffered from oil seal leak and it was not even on fully syn (only using semi syn so far) and timing belt was only replaced in around 2022

Read on the net that if using fully syn the seals of old cars might not be able to sustain

 

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