You need to check and calculate properly the total load of the wire (if you decided to pull from one of plug point) that do not exceed the maximum ability of the wire.

This is ill advice.

Inverter at full blown (when start operate time), it consume the same amount with non-inverter, just ability to run at partial load in operation afterwards (when the room is cool enough), that result in saving in electricity and draw less current.

Inverter is not using less current by default.
At 100% running, inverter still consume high current.

Despite many time explanation, seems like still not getting the right understanding of inverter.

1) possible
2) Plaster ceiling can be "re-patched" after the job done, not much an issue.
3) No contract will want/dare to drill through a beam, so you need to round it.

You need to check properly in term of load capability of wire and your total loop of the wire, from the point that wish to pull/loop for the air-cond if decided not using directly from the DB.

As even you see is just a plug point, sometimes there is plenty of loop sharing the same supply behind that you do not see.

And also, the rating of the wire pulled original that can carry how much load (A).

Easy way to check, is off the Circuit breaker in the DB, see how many point do not have current, then already know how many loop has been applied on the single pull of wire.

I shake head with the reply.

In term of wire consideration, you considered the maximum current draw by the appliances, as it is a very dangerous to let cable to run over its rated capacity whereby wire can get hot and burn.

Please don't spread false understanding that inverter draw less current hence can loop the wire easily as compared to non-inverter. It is an ill and dangerous advice which could cost life!

They both draw the same amount of current at full blown.

Panasonic non-inverter 1 HP CU-C9QKH
https://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/home-...r/cs-c9qkh.html
Running current = 3.6A
Powerinput = 790W

Panasonic inverter 1HP (CU-S10PKH) https://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/home-.../cs-s10pkh.html
Running current = 3.6A
Power input = 225-920W

York YWM10L 1HP non inverter
Total current 4.38A

York Y5WMY10JF 1HP inverter http://www.scribd.com/doc/142020182/York-Inverter-Catalog

Total current 1.63~5.06A

The inverter at full blown can draw more than non-inverter.
As you need AC need to convert to DC for inverter motor to run, there may be conversion loss as well in between.

Not to recommend, just share experience.

My office just replaced an old air-cond Pana (with plasma) that already a decade old with basic non-inverter 1.5HP Pana at about Rm1230.
Installation fee I guess was about RM180.

Surprisingly, it is quiet and cool (not the like someone said non-inverter is noisy and not cool).

The cooling effect is better than the old air-cond (also 1.5HP) with plasma one.

May be the plasma feature that installed at the cooling fin affect the air-flow a bit, I don't know, as I saw a rectangular plastic plate at sit in front of the cooling fin.

You don't measure the compressor casing dimension as a gauge whether the compressor is more powerful or not.

It is just a casing dimension. Dimension can be made smaller by a more compact design.

One should look at the compressor rated power as the indicator, not casing dimension.

It is nothing to do with whatever brand of air-cond or air-cond issue, it is your surrounding.
Quite common if nearby got construction work going on whereby lot of dirt flying around.

You may "choke" or clog the air-cond air flow faster by putting extra layer of filter, aka reduce air-flow significantly, and drive up the electricity consumption.

You put up extra layer of filter, the extra layer of filter also will be clogged after 3 weeks, which I don't see any much different with standard set up, except you may have a "cleaner" blower inside but at the expense of reduced air-flow.

There is a reason why the filter given by manufacturer is not "thick" and "dense", as it may significantly affect the air-flow.

Timer problem, gas leaking that resulted auto-cut off to protect the compressor, PCB faulty etc problem are the possibility.

Get the technician to check.

There was a similar topic before.
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1897941/all

You can't test wiring issue by simple this method and it is not advisable to be done on someone do not know about electricity.

This is ill advice statement to start with.

You need to ask developer, why pre-installed concealed piping that cater for R22.
Owner has little choice except installing R22 air-cond, otherwise, hacking can be a major and costly rework.

We need legislation to insist developer to pre-installed R410 cater piping, by then there will be more and more people using inverter.

WARNING

Please do not do so, this is ill advice by saying just change the socket and plug that already can become 15A.

It is about wire size that dictate how much current can be carried along the wire.
You change the socket and plug, won't instantly the wire can carry the load of 15A, so does changing the fuse won't able the wire to carry above its rated ampere as well.

You will overheat the wire by overloading the wire above its rated ampere that it can carry and could cause spark or fire as well.

A 1.0/1.5HP aircond doesn't consume more than 10A

Every size of wire got its own rating.

Your statement could cause people house caught fire, possible casualty which is serious issue.

If do not know, please do not post ill advice, Ty.

From DB to the socket, if the wire size installed is 13A rated, then you only can use 13A, changing the fuse at DB and socket/plug won't enable the wire to carry 15A.

Changing fuse and socket will enable you to use 15A (as you change bigger size fuse and socket, it won't trip), but current pass through the wire doesn't have "eye", it still pass through the 13A wire, but the wire get hot and potential caught fire.

You need to look for the incoming wire size and rated before it can be tapped.

If the installed wire size is 20A then tapping for a 15A, no issue.
But the the installed wire size is 13A one, tapping for a 15A socket/usage is overloading the wire already.

You need to calculate the load of the wire before tapping, not simply looping/tapping without knowing, this is very dangerous.

Tripping has its reason,
if the circuit breaker is tripping due to overload, it is good sign the circuit breaker is working properly.

Every DB, fuse, circuit breaker (CB) is designed and calculated its load already, if C16 is pre-installed on one of the line, it means they install the wire size to match its load. Do not install oversize CB, it defy the purpose of having circuit breaker.

Just like fuse, if it keep on burned out, it means something is wrong between the wire. Don't try to bypass it with a copper wire (similar to oversize fuse).

Diameter of copper wire inside the wire.
Sometime, there is printing on the wire itself.

Generally, little put oversize wire one, as copper wire is costly, so if the socket is intended for 13A, mostly, they will install a 13A rated wire size, and circuit breaker size accordingly.

PS: Engage with professional wireman for any intended change of usage of a socket. As it is not something should be taken lightly.

One needs to understand the difference between inverter and non-inverter.

Compressor basically work the same and if proper installed and no defect in the manufacturer, all shouldn't be too noisy, according to the manufacturer's noise db published.

The difference can come from that inverter compressor has the ability to run at partial load when achieve desired condition, running at partial load or rpm, the quieter the compressor can be, as well as less wear and tear on the bearing etc.
Noise can be come from wear bearing sometimes.


It depends on the condition, inverter will run partial loan when achieving the pre-set temperature, if your room has low heat loss aka better insulation, no sun light, window leaking air, then the inverter need not to run at full load most of the time.

Inverter basically work the same with non-inverter when running full load time, particularly when the air-cond starting time that running at full load.

The saving of inverter come from ability to run at partial load, instead of non-inverter that running 100% or 0%.
Inverter doesn't automatically save your electricity, it is about how it is operating.
Compressor of inverter and non-inverter consume same amount of Watts (in fact inverter may be a little higher than non-inverter), so in full load time, there is no saving.
The saving come from the partial load period.

It is condensate (the piping is cold with warm humid air out there, just like a glass of ice water, you have water outside of the glass), not something 'leaking".

Improper insulation of copper pipe during installation also can cause this problem, (the cold copper being exposed too much).

But rust normally happened after sometimes, which depended on the steel plate paints/coating material.

1HP already overkill for a 6x6 size.