Manual says xw30 mah. I follow lor. Btw, this Mobil-1 also got SAE-20 and SAE-30 Advanced Fuel Economy blah oil.

But the SAE-20 says (For Honda and Toyota). CheepJing car, not on the list.

weren't you the one who mentioned the manual said xw20 also? and then there's the talk about ambient temperatures? like how Malaysia don't get 40 Celsius ambient temperatures.

my EO turned out perfectly fine (again, better than virgin oil) with 0 degradation and it's additives/detergent going strong (again, stronger than virgin oil lol) after 8500 km.

engine wear was a little on the high side, however i was assured by the lab people/other people that it's just engine parts breaking in.

my second report will further confirm on that soon.

No lar bro, manual says 30 to 40 only wor....

Here:



But your engine oil used isn't mobil-1 bro, we don't know if all 0w20 oil will produce the same result as your lab test...better be on safe side...it's not like Lala is fuel efficient car anyway...

wei, your picture there, you don't see 0w-20?
-40 c to 40c ambient temperature range.

some more it was based on OLD API SG specification

in case you keep missing it, look at the chart.

The chart is for reference of the various standard only mah....the text there says use 30 or 40 only.



Does fake lala manual says differently??

here i read again:
quite straight forward, right?

http://www.pqiamerica.com/devilsindisguise.htm
you want to tell me that today's engine oil cannot deal with 40 Celsius non existent atmospheric temperatures that was based on standards set in 1988? (API SG)

I don't want to tell you anything lar bro, i am not the engine oil expert. I am kiasi lala driver only.

Anyway, found some lancer forum comments here to share:

http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-en...ad-0w-20-a.html

This post has been edited by Matrix: Nov 12 2014, 03:22 PM

this post a?

Yah lor...found guinea pig liao...now more confident to use 0W20 next round....but this oil....15k miles...=24k km....
I probably need to drive 2 years to reach that...LOL. But i will probably do oil change in 9 months....

even the amsoil 25k miles (40k km) also tell you to change oil in a year, so... those kinda oils you can pretty much ignore their mileage already.

looking back at proton (if your car still under warranty and provided you give a shit about it), it's 10k km/6 months, so maybe around 11-12k km or 7/8 months go back oil change? I've heard proton seems to be very lenient on their service schedules.

i'll follow the 20k km on my oci for the motul 300v cuz i'm damn curious on my engine wear and the EO's quality (being a racing non API SN certified EO) so want to get it tested out asap (while not doing it too early resulting in huge waste)

Tak abis abis EO. Btw ws2 make engine run quieter. No increase in power according to my butt dyno, fc remains the same.

Eo shell ultra pure plus. Testing done... 3k km. Gonna get rid of this ws2 soon as ws2 will increase corrosion rate according to angmoh military study. :star:

i had ws2 poured in first eo change (with the amsoil, and liqui moly ceratec too)

but with the cost involved... i might as well just whack motul 300v and actually save money from it >.>

btw got link to ws2 corrosion rate study/article? interesting to find out myself.

U can get it from boitg. Hard for me to dig the link out from my hp.

BITOG i assume? you help me find la, i don't really visit BITOG that much, they too crazy jor lol.

as the "joke" goes, using their (bitog members) used oil also better than cap ayam/fake EO outside (especially vastly sold in Malaysian market)

How to know enginr oil fake or ori...no way to tell...sigh..

you sendiri find trouble to yourself.

Where you bought your oil again?

zhapalang kepong

Nah... http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a536171.pdf -source from bitog.

Gonna do more study before feeding anymore more crap on my engine.
anyway moly aka mos2 seems like a ok stuff, some mustang guy do a tear down comparing his cam 70k km(rp oil) with others on mobil1 30k km. Rp with moly seems able to maintain the cam condition like new. Somewhat can conclude that moly would be a better additives for engine.

This post has been edited by nicotine: Nov 12 2014, 04:16 PM