Now I think is time for me to feedback regarding the user experience of Collinite 476s wax.

I first applied the wax at very beginning of January, 2015. I was going to have a training trip in Europe for 3 months, so I wax it for protection. Throughout these 3 months, the car actually sits in garage nicely covered, I cannot say the wax last 3 months.
I started to drive back the car as a daily driver at beginning of April 2015. Until end of June 2015, I polish and re-apply a new coat (as shown in my previous post).
So with just barely 3 months of actual exposure to external environment, what can I feedback to you?

Well I have only used Meguiar's Gold Class and Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, so these are the only two I can compare to.

In term of look, the Collinite 476s actually do not give a very appealing look. I like how my car looks like when I first apply the Meguiar's Gold Class, albeit in just 1 week this good looking feel will be gone due to the weak durability of the wax. So if you are after look, and you own a light color car, Collinite 476s probably not for you.

In term of repelling dust, Collinite 476s just like other natural carnauba wax, has a tendency to be unable to repell dust, in fact I think it attracts dust a bit just like Meguiar's Gold Class.

So it sounds suck. Wait until the weekend wash, when I spray water on it, then I can see that the wax is holding up very strong! The beading strength has never gone weak as fast as the Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. I have a habit of using tar remover in a weekend wash. Once I spot a tar, i quickly spray at that area and wipe clean or rinse with water.
Tar remover is a strong wax remover too. In previous experience, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax will not be able to withstand this habit of cleaning by me. In about 2 or 3 times of wash, the area where I always spray tar remover (like the lower part of the front doors), the water beading is very weak and can see the water film isn't going away easily once the panel is wet.

With Collinite 476s the durability on this "harsh" area is apparently increases. I do not say it stays there forever till end of June 2015, I think some weeks before that I already cannot see any beading. But it definitely withstand much longer than Ultimate Wax.

And on the roof, which is the only panel I never need to use tar remover, up until the week I clean my car for polishing, it is still beading like crazy. I believes if I stop the habit of using tar remover regularly, the wax can really stays as long as the roof panel.

I have got myself a clay cloth, much convenient and forgiving to use than clay bar. I will start to use clay cloth to remove the tar in my weekly wash. I want to see if this change of method will prolong the durability of wax.

As of now, I am very satisfy with Collinite 476s because durability is all that I am going after. I shall see with 6 months full exposure to external environment, until the Christmas of this year, how well it can hold up again. I feedback more that time.



Everything has strength and weakness. Collinite 476s will not be exception. Previously I have stated regarding the look factor is its weakness. The application difficulty is also another weakness.
It is quite challenging to apply the Collinite 476s. Apply too thick, and you risk transforming your arm into Arnold. Apply thin, but wait too long to buff out, your arm still going to be Arnold.
Which is why I apply using machine, my hand application frequent times will end up too thick. The advise I get, which is to apply 2 panels, then immediately go back to the 1st panel to buff out, then buff out the 2nd panel, and repeat the cycle again for the whole car, is indeed the most beneficial way to use Collinite 476s without torturing our arms.

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Jul 7 2015, 03:03 PM

Following the 2nd day polish and wax application (I also apply trim protectant), the 3rd day, I do front wind-shield glass polishing with cerium oxide. This is not going to be a very informative post with photos and videos, I just share what I did in the past week.

The cerium oxide I use is the OSREN glass polishing abrasive. According to OSREN it contains cerium oxide, so it can cut glass, but it did not state its concentration or cutting power. So this is my 1st time of using it and will serve as my guide for future use.

At first I masked up the area.




The product I use:



Nothing fancy, just common stuff.

The strategy is as follow:

1) Clay the wind-shield first with 3M claybar and wipe dry with waffle wave towel. Lubricant I use Optimum No-Rinse mix to a clay lubricant concentration. (left most in the picture)
2) Polish the glass using Flex 3401 Force Rotation Dual Action Polisher, with 4 3/8" backing plate, 5" glass polishing pad with interface attached. Product used OSREN glass polishing abrasive (with cerium oxide).
For corner area, I manually hand polish with glass polishing pad (the square looking thing in the picture).
(middle items in the picture)
3) Clean the glass to be free of polishing residue using Meguiar's Pure Clarity Glass Cleaner, wipe with lint free microfiber towel.
(2nd items from right)
4) Apply RAINX as hydrophobic coating by MF towel. Wait to dry to haze then use damp towel to wipe clean.
(1st item from right)


Because I keep my clay in a container filled with water, and coincidentally I was away from house for 3 months in a row, after I was back and re-use the 3M clay, I found out that the super stiff 3M clay has becomes super soft.
It is so soft to the extend of not usable. I have to sun dries it few days to reduce its moisture. Then now it becomes very soft and easy to use. I remember some members here complain that the 3M clay very stiff, this is one of the method you can use to make it soft.

The watermark on the wind-shield is gone after polishing. I cannot exactly sure it is due to the presence of cerium oxide or a non-cerium oxide polishing will also do the task. But I am satisfy with the product so far. I am not intend to remove any scratch (there is none) on the wind-shield so I cannot comment on the cutting power of the product.

As for the FLEX 3401, first time use it. It takes some effort to control as it constantly "walk" away or into you depending on your angle of holding. As long as it is flat on the surface, then the "walking" effect gone. Not hate it, just sharing a finding. Vibration is slightly lower than traditional DA. I think among all 3 machines I like this one the most.

I do not use traditional DA to polish the glass because I figure that I will need the force rotation power. A rotary should be the best for this task but I do not own one so this Flex comes in handy.

After applying RAINX so many times, I think I should assert that using a towel to apply it is not the best. Even after my glass polishing (glass very smooth), the wiper will still jiggle when wiping after RAINX. I will try to use a hard foam applicator cover with a lint free towel next time, like what you would use to coat your car paint.

Thank you bro KrisMas, and thanks for the suggestion.
I try search for such item. It is first time for me to hear it.

Is it looks like this, usually can see in hospital toilet:

Confess whether you doing this at office or at home

No, still outstation. Sometime too bore at work so surf forum a bit to update on what is going on recently.

Great job on the touch up.

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Aug 5 2015, 07:36 PM