Firstly, Megs White Wax is an AIO (polish-clean-protect) utilising abrasives (mechanical) cleaner as oppose to other 'normal' AIOs with chemical cleaners. Defects/swirl removal abilities would be quite mild (minimal) especially by hand application. It would improve the 'shine'/gloss but don't expect it to remove much of the defects/swirls.

Secondly, Collinite 476S and Soft99 Fusso Coat are basically products that performs the same function - to protect the paint. The former is of an 'older' tech formulation and the latter is a more modern formulation. I haven't tried the Soft99 before but, personally, I doubt that it would last much longer than the Colly. You don't really need to do a round of IPA wipedown after using Megs White Wax, but it would help with the durability as waxes/sealants bonds better to a clean surface...much like glue...

My personal suggestion is that, after you've finished with the washing and claying, just go on and do a little bit of paint/deep cleaning with Megs White Wax with EITHER your Megs mf or foam pad (I would suggest the mf pad cuz it is slightly more aggresive) and afterwards just put on a layer of EITHER Colly OR Soft99. If you still want to add on another layer, I would strongly suggest using the same wax as you *might* get incompatibility issues if using a different one. Maybe later on, after a month or two or anytime you decided to re-do, go for another round of Megs White Wax and use the other one. If you're curious on whether the two waxes are compatible with each other and would improve the durability, why don't you do one section (or even half the car) with one wax on top of another and see whether it makes a difference or not in the long run. Comes to think of it, even Megs White Wax *could* have the same issues so why not just straight away put a layer of wax right after claying on a small section....just for comparison sake....hahaha.

What I'm trying to say is, now that you have 3 different products from 3 different brands, it's better if you try a few combinations yourself and see which one you prefer and suits you best. What we can do is just guide you with some basics but it's really up to you to choose which method SUITS YOU THE MOST.

And about the Hex-logic pads, I'm not sure they would make much of a difference if you're working by hand. The stiffer pads would have an advantage if you're trying to remove defects but I'm not too sure Megs White Wax is the proper products to go with that...and again...especially if you're working by hand. Maybe you should look at the stiffer pads and a heavier cutting polish/compound when you've decided that you want to do some heavier defects removal. By that time, I would think you'd also be looking for an entry level machine to help you out...believe me you will after doing a round of light polishing and waxing....

Another thing, BSD is a great topper and so easy to apply and it's also quite durable. Use it after your next wash (after the proper polishing/waxing session) and you might not even consider using the Colly or Soft99 for quite some time.....

Anyway, don't forget to HAVE FUN ya.....

1 bar of Soft99 clay bar (RM20), 1 bottle of car wash shampoo (RM10), Soft99 Meta Clean (RM39), a couple of applicator pad (RM10) and a also couple of microfibre cloth (RM15) (quoting prices from Lazada)....can't think of anything cheaper that I would dare to recommend....

I just qoted the price searched/shown in Lazada...just to indicate estimated pricing/expenditure...

The essentials for maintenance: Shampoo, clay, paint cleaner OR AIO, paint sealant OR wax, spray sealants/wax/detailer. For paint corretions (swirls, scratches, water marks/etchings, etc): compounds and/or polishes. Start with the basics, then move up from there.

Shampoo - If you have the means, go for the normal shampoo. I would reserve the suggestion for 'no-rinse' only if you have limitations/not able to do a normal wash.

Clay - pick one up if your car had never been clayed before.

Sealant/wax - both M21 and Opti Seal have their own pros and cons. For ease of application I'd go for Opti Seal. And Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax comes in the same category so I'd just pick one of the three for protection.

QD - Sonax BSD would be more than good enough. And there's not much application for a quick detailer in our climate or for a daily-drive.

You can use any pads with the Bosch ROB as long as the size is right...between 5.25" ~ 6"...6.5" is max size that I would consider to be effective to be used on the Bosch.

B&D good enough for wax application...that's about all it's good for....

Wash regularly...there's no other way. Even if you slap on the best coating money can buy, you'd still get those stubborn stain, albeit easier to wash off. And if you left it for too long and stain the coating, it's going to be a costly affair....

Dish washing liquid....and remember to rinse thoroughly.

Compounds & polishes are easier to clean. Just mix some dish washing liquid with water inside a sprayer bottle, spray onto the pads, leave it for half an hour or so (just makes sure to keep it damp), massage with hand, rinse under running water while squeezing the residue out. For drying, if you have a rotary polisher you can put the pad on and spin dry it. If you don't have a rotary polisher you can just wring the water out and leave it to dry (under shade). For hand foam applicator pads, the same applies.

Now, waxes and sealants (including glaze & AIO's) will be more stubborn. Best solution I found is to use Dawn Power Dissolver as posted by bro slk, using the same technique as above but with shorter dwelling time...like 15 mins or so. I've tried using All Purpose Cleaner, Degreaser, Dish Washing Liquid, baking soda, distilled vinegar, etc. but nothing was able to do an effective job as DPD. DPD is a bit expensive though, so, best alternative (but not as effective) is to do multiple soaking and cleaning with dish washing liquid.

ACE Hardware outlets should have them.

Small tip for using DPD for cleaning foam pads. Dilute it 1:1 (1 part DPD with 1 part distilled water) in a sprayer bottle. DPD is a little thick/concentrated and quite strong. It's quite effective even at that dilution.

I would strongly suggest, if possible, do use one. Rubber would be fine but nitrile would be ideal. My palm always feels rough and some times even peeling after using it.

Detailing wise...just for cleaning waxes/sealants from FOAM pads (doesn't work as good on microfiber pads). I don't use it for anything else as it's a very harsh and powerful chemical mix.

Non-detailing wise, it's also no 1 on my list for cleaning *very* stubborn grease and those caked-in grease and burnt-on food on BBQ grills, oven, cooktop, bottom of frying pan, etc., better than those foaming oven cleaner

Will tell you if there's any in the future. Where's your location anyway?

For severe water etchings on paints, you'd need at least a mild polish or a compound, of which I haven't found any (decent ones) selling off-the-shelves at any departmental stores accept for Meguiars Ultimate Compound. You can try Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound or any 'rubbing compound' but there are risks involved as these compounds are quite harsh and, if not properly used, could create their own damages. You'd most probably need to follow up with a mild polish to 'refine' the finish. I'm not sure what the soft99 (blue) that you're refering to, but Soft99 Meta Clean would be able to reduce the water etchings by removing most of the mineral deposits. But you'd still need to 'cut' the paint with a compound to remove the etchings (marks).

For glass, just be careful ESPECIALLY the front windscreen. You can try Soft99 Glass Compound Z or an acidic (liquid) cleaner like Tomcat. But if the windscreen/glass is already etched, better let a pro handle it. Glass is so much harder than paint and would require 'special' tools and products for proper 'polishing'.

Regards.

That one is an AIO (All In One) cleaner/polish/wax...very mild...not strong enough to remove even heavy water marks....

We use the word 'compound' for something that is very aggressive and 'polish' for something milder. A good analogy would be like using sandpaper. A compound would be the lower grit sandpaper (very coarse) and a polish would be the higher grit (finer) sandpaper. Under normal circumstances, after using the coarse sandpaper you'd need to follow up with a finer sandpaper if you want to get the surface smooth. Knowing the right method and technique is essential to get a good finish. In actual fact it is not difficult to do. What makes it difficult and, subsequently causing 'damages' is due to not knowing what you're doing. Google around, ask around, get to know how to do and what product can do what, then you're good to go.

Those 'oil stain' (or we call it streaking/clouding) are signs of product drying too fast or not being applied evenly. Need a bit getting used to when applying spray waxes in our climate/weather conditions. Some times leftover products on the mf cloth that could also cause them, and you'd need to chage cloth often. I normally dilute mine with distilled water (by 25% or 1 part water + 3 parts product) and get better results.
Good tip this...

I would bet that those 'promoters' haven't really tested their waxes in our country/region/climate. But, saying that, most waxes would/could last for one year...if the car is parked in a showroom and never driven out...

Thanks for the share. Keep us updated on the durability & performance. I wasn't that impressed with M188 (well...comparing with the other coatings that I've tried) but I might had erred on the applications....

Oh...just my personal opinion...if the price you got is anything like the one on ebay linked by linkin182, I think you can get better coatings....

*Assuming* the price range (product only) is around RM400. You can opt for IGL Coating, 22ple or Osren's (of which I haven't tried yet). If DIY, I would suggest 22ple VX1 or VX3 simply because it's more user friendly and easier learning curve to apply and wipe off. Not sure if they're still available to purchase locally though.... Believe you me, if you think M188 is good, then you'll be blown away with 22ple.....hahahaha....