damn lol

true also lol...

well already got damn lots of hyper dressing lying around... i'll just finish it before moving on

nice video you shared there bro

good job there bro

search FNF main forum, i have posted that goo gone (orange/citrus power, can find from ace hardware) being very effective in doing this, and cleaning up the petroleum residue is a breeze as well with mere tissue paper

definitely come so long i'm not involved in any "beansprout runs"

my youtube videos should be a give away lol

i've used turtle wax fabric aerosol cleaner, works well and nothing to complaint except the fact i do need a vacuum later to clean up the residue (the drying agents thingy mentioned)

but yes, it dries very fast and is good for fabric as explained by sifu Krismas earlier

geng wo lolz!

sorry went to eat beansprouts.

if anyone want videos i'll link here later la; Else keeping to inspira thread only

https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/j9Gt8oHBrpT Took leave on Friday, and spent the entire noon/evening/night cleaning my mom's Nissan Sentra engine bay.

i didn't directly spray degreaser on to the alternator, the brush i use would have excess and i just brush over it. if not enough, i just spray more on the brush and continue brushing.

after i am done i just spray some lithium grease to moving parts such as the alternator, throttle cable (the sentra is not DBW) and the throttle movement mechanism

and yes my megs SD is running on 1:10, may need to buy another gallon soon as i do use it fairly frequently considering how i work on cars a lot and in a sense also can consider DIY workshop already

and yes my bad on not taking photo while the engine is dry and dirty, however considering the pictures on the engine block with all the previously leaked oil, added with dirt/grime/carbon etc, you could probably get the idea on how dirty the engine bay is.
to further describe, most of the "regular maintenance items" such as the brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant reservoirs are all covered in thick layer of dirt that a wipe is a must else you won't be able to easily see the fluid levels.
the dip stick are all covered in dirt as well so it gets my hands REALLY dirt after doing engine oil/ATF inspections.

well not purposefully (needed to clear leaves), but since i do have a bit of spare time, and there's the engine cover sitting in the living room forever since the previous valve cover gasket replacement, i'd figure it's high time i clean the engine bay up, and install the cover back to where it belongs.
and yes i did show her and she was quite delighted

as for the brush and gloves, i think i gotten all of them (the 2 painting brush, a pair of rubber gloves) for like rm10 or so. just really cheap stuffs since it's not like i want to prevent scratching or something on the engine.
heck, in fact the brushes are actually too soft for certain parts and i'm considering things like toilet scrub if it weren't for their usually bigger sizes for harder to reach places.

i only hyper dress on the logo, so chances are, it won't be having that much dust and not to mention i have bsd to sorta "dilute it" (since it has a bit of cleaning ability as it's a very mild QD) so it doesn't feel that oily at all.
maybe i can take a picture in a week or 2 time (hopefully i remember haha)

it able to blow water i guess? lol.

nothing comparable to a proper blower, it's just happen i have one so i may pump tires and what not that's it lol.

go find out the oem

https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/CyKB5ydmFS8 Did engine bay cleaning for the Iswara late evening during Malaysia day public holiday; Completed a lot faster this time around 

didn't bother covering anything this time lol

if it is serious, can consider ultimate compound. however do follow proper steps and cleaning prior to any detailing/correction work.

if you're going to proceed with compound, do perform ultimate polish after it to further smoothen any hazing that may be caused by ultimate compound.

also if you're using hand, please use light even pressure, else you may be getting some horrible "finger marks"

swirls from new car straight from dealership is not surprising especially if they're going to wash it down "clean" for you.

it's just how stainless steel are after going through extreme heat cycles; Certain parts you'll see pretty rainbow color, while the rest is ugly brown rusty looking colors.
If i maintain my car between 4-5k rev or more, you can see it glowing red
and during my active days on the iswara, it's seen redlines on a VERY frequent basis.

i didn't cover anything because the intake's stuck all the way to the fender, no way water's getting in.
and even if it did, it'll just drip out of that hot air vent thingy that's operated on engine vacuum or something.
the distributor is a typical point to cover, however it has layers of rubbers and seals, while the socket is just a +/- socket that's rather straight forward and not that water will stagnate on it anyways.

the rest are very simple mechanical/electrical items that wouldn't break even if a short circuit does happen.
old carbie, no ECU, very simple old car

- it'll heat up and blow or something if you operate over 10-15 minutes

- instant

- yea no problem.

eh didn't know he got website lol!
and selling posh piles now, damn i'm tempted!

btw his LYN ID: SupremeCareForYou

well...