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Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids
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outpace
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Aug 27 2015, 08:53 PM
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Guys, after service, would the engine turn to black really fast, I mean real fast like less than 100KM after oil change. SC told me that it's normal. Googled a bit on web, it's very common for diesel engine, but petrol turbo engine? This was after the first oil change at 15,000KM, for the Volkswagon 1.4TSI engine.  On the right is the new oil from the bottle ( Castrol Edge Fully Synthetic), the dark oil on the left side of paper was from the engine, 1 day after the oil change. Normal? » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «    Any one can enlighten me why it turn black very quick? Cause it's different from my previous experience of changing engine oil, translucent for at least few days / week. residual oil in turbo ? oil stick on the cylinder? the oil from SC's drum are normally darker?
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outpace
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Jan 1 2016, 11:45 AM
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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Dec 31 2015, 11:04 AM) it's 2 litres bottle, so RM160 for 4 litres
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outpace
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Jan 3 2016, 10:20 AM
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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 1 2016, 08:45 PM) No la. It's rm80 a lit. [attachmentid=5675731] Sorry and thanks. Need to see what's good about ester based oil. I'm non technical person looking around in you guys' technical discussion. lol esters: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester#List_of_ester_odorantsCan't really understand the fruit thingy. This post has been edited by outpace: Jan 3 2016, 10:28 AM
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outpace
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Jan 20 2016, 09:30 PM
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The mechanic's advice is not untrue, to certain extent. I bought a used car, about 7 years old, the flywheel oil seal came off after 1st or 2nd use of fully synthetic oil.
I guess the oil mUST have washed the sludge that hold the harden oil seal, and it detached. ( that oil was Repco if recalled correctly, I used the Petronas/ mobil semi or less well known fully)
Of course, after I replaced the flywheel oil seal, all the time fully oil and semi oil. treat your car nice, it will reward you with peace of mind.
This post has been edited by outpace: Jan 20 2016, 09:33 PM
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outpace
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Apr 25 2016, 08:35 PM
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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Apr 25 2016, 04:12 PM) Found something interesting from other forums : I am an engine engineer from Detroit with about 30 years of experience, so let me list a few truths:
1. An oil filter will never actually fill-up with contaminants, dirt, etc. unless someone sabotages your engine. There is a lot of capacity in a typical filter cartridge and engines don't really generate that much filterable soot and dirt. Most of the soot is too small to be filtered by anything but a special bypass filter. The real reason we change filters, is that the paper and glue that holds the insides together will not last forever; years, but not forever, and also to get that old oil out of the filter. Use a good quality filter that has a very high efficiency rating in the ASTM spec test. I like the Pure-1 or Bosch filters. 2. Really hard street driving is still a walk-in-the-park compared to the manufacturers standard General Durability tests, where the engine is cycled continuously between peak power and peak torque for hundreds of hours. One exception would be road-racing if you don't have a good oil-cooler and you let the oil temp get above 250F. The real severe-duty as far as oil is concerned is lots of idling and short trips. When you idle, your combustion quality is poorest, so you have extra fuel-dilution. Also in extended idling, your oil temperature rarely get above 150F which is what is needed to drive off fuel and water vapor from the oil. Whenever an engine is running, blowby gasses get past the rings and enter the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. These blowby gasses are exhaust gas, which means it contains a lot of water vapor which when it hits the cold crankcase, condenses into liquid water. The faster you can warm-up your engine (by driving not idling), the sooner you can start to boil-off the water (and fuel) in your crankcase. 3. The main reason why oil turns dark is that the hottest spots in the engine (top of cylinder liners, pistons, exhaust side of head, etc.) slowly "cook" the oil through oxidation. Think of putting cooking oil in a fry pan and overheating it, it will darken. There are other chemical processes that degrade the oil as it mixes with Nitric Oxides in the crankcase. In GDI engines there is also a bit of soot from combustion that gets picked-up by the oil and suspended in solution by the detergents. The soot particles are typically in the sub-micron size, so they just pass-through the filter and are also small enough to not hurt the bearings and other wear surfaces in the engine. Synthetic oil has a lot higher temperature resistance than conventional mineral oils and so it cooks more slowly. 4. The net effect of oil dilution by water and fuel, effects of time at high temperature, and other chemical reactions in the crankcase, mean that eventually the oil will get out-of spec regarding its viscosity and its ability to keep the inside of the engine clean; as the detergent, anti-corrosion, anti-sludge, and anti-foam additive packages wear-out. The quality or age of the oil filter can't change this. If you just follow the manufacturers recommended change interval (or the maintenance computer) you should be on the safe and conservative side.
Dave Got it from here : http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-20...sumption-3.htmlGood share Not sure about the idea of putting magnet at the filter
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outpace
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Apr 25 2016, 08:37 PM
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QUOTE(hjh87 @ Apr 24 2016, 10:33 AM) Guy, Is there any Caltex Station which with the Car Workshop?? Would like to try out their engine oil, can't just buy the engine oil and went to the workshop cause they don't entertain people who get their own engine oil. Hope you guy can share the location if any, around Selangor or KL. Thanks. If you bring your own oil, they will just charge service fee, no?
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outpace
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Apr 27 2016, 01:03 PM
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QUOTE(hjh87 @ Apr 27 2016, 08:40 AM) I've tried few workshop, but all not willing to do it. wa, bringing oil and filter to workshop no longer accepted? The few shops you went really teruk, but of course they have their right. Try until you get someone to do loh. Normally RM15
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outpace
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Apr 28 2016, 09:31 AM
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QUOTE(hjh87 @ Apr 27 2016, 02:12 PM) Can't really blame them, if they allow one customers another might follow. How about anyone here know any workshop at bukit tinggi area or PJ do carry Caltex Havoline engine oil? what's the difference of earning on self bring and on shelf? Ya, not blaming, It's their call for the 20 minutes thing. Even they say RM30 to RM50 we also have to pay if it's their equipment and labour. Too many fake oil around, so I only get oil from a trusted source. A bit difficult if no one willing to do leh, try other if turned down by one, until we get one loh.
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outpace
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Sep 5 2016, 08:04 PM
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QUOTE(munlok30 @ Sep 3 2016, 11:55 AM) morning , just want to ask a question , is motor oil and engine oil is SAME >> ?? i got many extra motor oil but my car engine oil just 3 litre which i think is not enough for me when i change it , so can i add on motor oil > > ???? Some high end motorbike engine oil in the bike workshop cost a lot more per litre than my car engine oil.
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outpace
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Nov 9 2016, 08:04 PM
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Used the Lexus fully synthetic oil, brought from Sparepart shop for very cheap price, skeptical about it, can't really recall the performance at that time.
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outpace
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Nov 25 2016, 08:43 PM
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QUOTE(delsoo @ Nov 24 2016, 06:31 AM) Your car's problem, fuel injector, software to your petrol tank. Leave your innocent engine oil alone...
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outpace
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Nov 29 2016, 07:25 PM
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QUOTE(delsoo @ Nov 26 2016, 11:21 AM) Old saga gt fuel injector ? Sorry, my bad. To me, the millage you having looks just too drastic to be the fault of 15W40 or 20W50. unless I can rule out all other possibilities, I would not blame engine oil first.
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outpace
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Aug 14 2017, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE(Thrust @ Aug 12 2017, 02:09 AM) Volkswagen good??  VW prodict is fine, especially when you always floor the pedal, maybe because they fake their emission so they able to punches carry more pounds per displacement? It was their SC that suck big time
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outpace
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Jun 27 2018, 01:37 PM
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QUOTE(lowya @ Jun 25 2018, 12:46 PM) which has better cold start viscosity generally speaking, full syn, or semi syn? you can say most of the EO that provide wider range of protection at cold and running heat are full syn, but strictly speaking cold start viscosity got nothing to do with full syn / semi syn / mineral. Full syn is generally more "stable" or slower to degrade/breakdown from its original condition when it was new. lower number perform better during cold start.
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outpace
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Jul 6 2018, 07:28 AM
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It's a funny world, so many of us wanna try cap ayam brands from mystery companies, but there is someone doesn't trust a winning F1 team partner's oil picked from the shelf.
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outpace
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Jul 6 2018, 11:42 AM
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QUOTE(voscar @ Jul 6 2018, 10:35 AM) lol, and gaining a few hp on "party-mode" which burning oil-fuel mixture?  It's always interesting to guess what are they doing with the steering wheel when they turn / press here and there for their party mode / high tea mode / in-lap mode / race finishing mode.. See these teams are comfortable to use Petronas with their 800HP ++ Mercedes F1 engine ? http://www.f1i.com/news/296324-wolff-red-b...l-supplier.html Using Petronas oil is time when you can be patriotic and be cool at the same time, different from the "proud" monent when I drove my old P1 on the road. Petronas F1 marketting at its best hahaha
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outpace
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Jul 12 2018, 10:38 PM
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QUOTE(CAL V @ Jul 12 2018, 01:40 AM) Erm, you sure the eo used by the team is anything close to what they offer on the shelf? Just my 2cent, there's almost nothing on the car that are off the shelf. You are right, that's why I ended wih "F1 marketing at its best". I simply want to say I don't see any reason to trust petronas less than any other big brands.
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outpace
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Jul 12 2018, 10:45 PM
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QUOTE(jamespaul @ Jul 12 2018, 01:28 PM) Wait there is Group 2 oil masquerading as Synthetics?? Which one??? I need to avoid that. From my understanding is only Group 3 promoted to be synthetics (as their performance have improved tremendously). But, if you are right, then API and ACEA should do something about it Interested to know too. Bought a 15W50 Petronas Syntium 1000 Fully Synthetic (old stock) for my 1.5 engine that use 0W30 all the while, any comment sifu? beside saying it's an overkill for the 9 years old car This post has been edited by outpace: Jul 12 2018, 10:47 PM
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outpace
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Jul 14 2018, 03:32 PM
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QUOTE(e-lite @ Jul 13 2018, 04:25 PM) Want to introduce you guys to a proper "Racing Oil" gem I found:- Mobil Super 20W-50 / Mobil Special 4T Grade SAE 20W-50 Viscosity, ASTM D445 cSt @ 40 ºC 166 cSt @ 100 ºC 18.7 Sulphated ashes, weight %, ASTM D 874 0.9 Pour point, °C, ASTM D97 -24 Flash point, ºC, ASTM D92 266
Density @ 15,6 ºC g/ml, ASTM D4052 0.8875 Total base number mg KOH/g, ASTM 2896 8.1 Zinc ASTM D4951 wt% 0.14Source: https://www.mobil.com/English-MY/Passenger-...l-Special-20W50https://www.mobil.com/English-MY/Passenger-...pecial-4T-20W50There is a lot of formulation under the same name so keep up to date with the latest ones with correct specifications Sold in MR DIY for RM12 ++ per liter I will be running this for my KTM 390 motorcycle good price compare to engine oil in motorbike workshop
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outpace
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Nov 5 2018, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE(delsoo @ Nov 3 2018, 08:14 AM) why the engine oil doesnt turn black after 3000km ? My car is persona iafm , odo 60k, the colour of the EO still the same as day 1 I pour in the oil . EO is liqui moly 10w40 semi synthetic. Could it be fake oil ? was it because it is not hydro carbon based hence no residual of carbon dissolved in your Liqui Moly? viscosity and fuel usage remain the same? look forward for enlightenment
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