Would it be okay to use 5w50 oil instead of the recommended 20w50? All the 20w50 I find is mineral oil or high end synthetic racing oil, no in between. 5w50 on the other hand I can find Aisin brand with good price.

Should be okay la kan because the hot rating meets the recommendation? But this chart from the proton manual looks a bit different. It's almost like saying that 5w50 is only for cold weather and for hot tropical climate need to use thicker oil.

it's a 2007 Persona with first gen S4PH campro. but i checked the later model for Proton Iriz, they also use the same picture for users to pick which oil suits best for the ambient temperature. probably they never updated their manual .

I just learned about car maintenance this year. the diagram shown in the manual goes against what youtube video teaches me about oil ratings, that's why I ask to confirm.

yeah read that and also watched engineering explained videos. spend some few hours googling if 5w50 really can replace 20w50, can't find any definite answer. it's just the owner's manual that boggles my mind.

This post has been edited by Steponlego: Dec 21 2020, 07:58 PM

I just want to try if there's difference if I use w50 oil compared to more available w40. A bit curious why they recommend w50 oil for the original campro but recommend w30 for IAFM Campro.

Anyhow, can ask about ATF oil here? I got half of a bottle ATF fluid opened back in September last year. Is it still good to use? The color still bright red. I left the bottle outside of the house with the bottle cap on. I want to top up a bit of the transmission fluid because it seems that the fluid is a little bit on the low side after replacing driveshaft few months back. (Watched the whole driveshaft process, saw a bit of ATF got out, but the mechanic didn't topup even when I provide the ATF bottle)

Right now the car gear shifting is a bit erratic since alternator pulley repair yesterday, but I think it's mostly caused by the ECU relearning my driving style after the battery was disconnected for the alternator repair.

This post has been edited by Steponlego: Jan 17 2021, 03:59 PM

okay thanks. poured all at least 500ml of ATF oil into my car. now the oil level is at somewhere between cold and hot level with the engine idle in N gear. i'm afraid that i've been driving around for at least 5000km with low transmission fluid... shit.

no visible leaking anywhere.. probably the workshop only filled 3 bottles of ATF instead of 4...

Mizu ATF SP3 is okay?

Afraid to buy Proton SP3 since so many claim this seller sells fake and whatnot, figured might just buy Mizu.

Also, how long an ATF fluid can last inside the transmission unused? I think I might looked at the service sticker wrongly, 2019 wasn't the last date it was serviced, 2019 was the due date for service. So I'm guessing my transmission fluid might be already some 3 years old.

Thanks for reply. Decided on Aisin AFW+, RM95 for 4 liters plus RM10 cashback because they have proper specification sheet and it clearly printed on the side that it meets Mitsubishi SPIII requirement. It says fully synthetic in shopee mall but in product leaflet says high quality base stock.

There seems to be a cheaper Aisin AFW Dex-III, RM70 for 4 liters. Fully synthetic as per product description. Nothing printed on the side of the oil tin saying its compatible for SPIII, but on website application list it says okay to use for Mitsubishi SPIII. Most autopart seller list it compatible.

I did a bit of googling and it seems like there's even some service center use DexIII for proton which require SPIII. Puzzling.

I didn't know that. Car manufacturer really should list the compatible/interchangeable fluid for their car to make life easier for users.

Well I just poured 4 liters of synthetic ATF + 0.5 liters of fake Proton SP3 inside my Persona 2007. Let's hope for the best...

Or does he meant hard shift gear 1-2 during a cold start? I thought that was normal for most proton with 4 speed auto.

replace affected seal. hope it's just the oil sump or valve cover gasket. if flywheel oil seal, you will need to pay hefty labor fee to get the gearbox out just to replace the oil seal. happened to me back in 2015, drove the car around semenanjung with friends while the engine oil slowly dripping on the road. by the 5th day the oil is almost dry.

the engine is still strong now.

Today I changed to Aisin 5w50 full synthetic for the old campro engine as per manual recommending w50 oil. First impression, the engine is a lot quieter. Acceleration kinda feel a bit heavier, but my city drive fuel consumption is still the same.

Before this I use Petronas Syntium 800 10w40 (which i'm not sure if it's original because i bought a bottle of SP3 ATF from the shopee seller which i'm sure is a fake one). Used the syntium 800 for 6 months @7000km. Engine oil was clear up until it hit past 5000km. Decided to change new oil because I saw the oil level reduced.

Will using a thicker oil makes the engine runs cooler? This is my first time using w50 synthetic oil, and I'm seeing the temperature is a bit lower than most of the time. Or is this caused by new oil?

Used fully synthetic 5w-50 Aisin in February this year. Today I just hit 8000KM.

Should I replace the oil or it's good for another 2000KM?

Guys, I bought Shell Helix 5w40 from Lotus's shopee mall. Price is normal, nothing too cheap.

Surprisingly the oil was API SN Plus, not API SP. Because I'm pretty sure last year I bought from other seller, it already API SP.

So I'm like okay, maybe old stock. Then when I went to workshop to change oil, mechanic noted me that the engine oil does not have the aluminum foil seal under the bottle cap.

Wondering if anyone recently bought shell helix from Lotus having the same peculiarity. I understand that engine oil production might differ from batch to batch, but no seal under bottle cap just feel... weird.

Fasource.

One thing I noticed is that previously API SP Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 now became API SN Plus.

Last year same oil was imported by Shin Hing trading. Saw in Giant.