i found the details in their web and im using it personally.. nobody doing shitty ads here.. and everyone sharing their own experience so do i..

If you want the cert then ill give you the distributor's contact so you can ask them..

They put the API and ACEA in their website. And thats why i give a try for it..  not blindly went and tried it for sake of saving money bro.. even they put the TBN rate too..

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Here is the photos bro.. hope it answered your question bro..

Fosser isn't care aboout API, they do not sell in US market anyway.
As for ACEA, they are. Else they will not be liable to put the sticker on their products. I'm sure you know that the business practice in Europe is different than here.
Malaysia local brands, even though if they have API but the oil that they sell might not be the one that they sent for certification. Well NASA have API, does JTX have API too?
How reliable is API? As they do not audit the plant, which ACEA do.

As for Fosser Premium VS 5w40, we been told they are using Group IV base oil.[COLOR=red]

Another information that actually validate the minimum quality of Fosser by Duran Oil would be the manufacturer certification.
Unless someone doubt Mercedes Benz.

Most of the Fosser oils either MB229.1, MB229.3 or MB229.51 certified.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en.html
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html
* I'm not trying to do advertisement here, that's why I keep my thread in the garage sales. It just someone who tried the product that we imported and share their experience here. Its engine oil discussion anyway. Suddenly someone accused him of shitty advertisement. A non technical person will not know all those ACEA/API or whatever group of base oil being used to produce. Thanks anyway to naveenkalai7

have you read through the first page of this thread bro?

there is JASO for bikes however details for their passenger vehicle lubricant is a bit lacking for now

How is Group IV oil bad?

Group IV is PAO. Mobil 1 0W-40 is PAO. PAO are better than Group II & Group III. GTL Group III is almost as good as PAO.

PAO has very high viscosity index, therefore its viscosity is less affected by temperature compared to Group II. So I'm wondering how can you say Group IV is not good.

If you're assuming that group 5 is the best, then I do not agree to this statement. It all depends on application and for normal driving, group 5 could be harmful to your engine as it is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water. If you race, nevermind as you throw away after a few runs. But on normal driving, with extended change intervals, the benefits are almost negligible at best against PAO. (complete reading the attachment for a crash course on base oils)

There are plenty of brands using group 3 and 2 in the markets and many cars are running fine with that.

http://www.synmaxperformancelubricants.com...resentation.pdf
Finally you're back, starting to machine gun people 

Anyway, something you can consider to pin on front page if it serves the purpose in the knowledge of engine oil analysis.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/06/10...m-oil-analysis/

That's a clean looking engine. I believe if you change oil frequently, the engine internals will be clean no matter what oil you're using.

Yes, you still need to change despite running 2k only.
Some of the better grade fully synthetic oil can last for 1 year in engine, but most products on market have effective lifespan of ~6 months in engine.
Hope it helps.

safest always good to stick with your car manual and/or the oil's recommendation though i would think that the car manual should take precedence.

that said, despite how "advanced" and crazy how amsoil did with their 40k km on the signature series, they only allow the oil to sit in the engine for 1 year.
using that as a baseline/benchmark, i think 6 months is a fairly good decision.

that said, a LOT of european cars do have higher oil capacities and that could be the main factor on them allowing much longer OCI, be it mileage and/or period.

Is their ISOSYN similar to fully synthetic performance? Group 2+ oil?

Synthetic or mineral/conventional oil?
https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f641390cba421...uly_2016.01.pdf
you'd be surprised at the results!

personally i'd say its up to one's own usage la, and of course, the general logic of "you get what you paid for" and you do pay premium for more premium products and whether its worth it or not, that's up to individuals.

if anything, if they can afford more/better protection, or their usage requires it, why not right?
now why would i?

Of course 0w20 will have some fuel savings against 10w30, not because it is fully synthetic but because it is a thinner oil. My diesel workhorse back home also change from xW40 to xW30, i get about 3% additional mileage.