flycam or stabilizer rig.... issue fixed.

FullHD is only 2mp. so imagine the 12mp scale down to 2mp.

i dont know your video style... a lot running movie? or static handheld from where you sit?.... a lot will factor into the shake of the video. there is also post-processing stabilizer (software base)

Full Frame Sony RX2?

http://thenewcamera.com/sony-rx2-new-specification-leaked/

Guys, did you remove your camera's battery say if you don't use it for several days?

Waaaaa~ Just when I'm about to sell my SEL16F28 everyone racun with the fisheye adapter pulak..!

Wanna ask a bit.

SEL35F18 vs SEL50F18.
Which one is better in terms of IQ?
Main concern is overall sharpness and purple fringing.

My first thought, 35mm is better for me as it's more compact and shorter focal length.
Yes it is a bit pricey compare to the 50mm, but the gap is not that big.

But if the 50mm's IQ is better overall, I'll go for the 50.

Your helps much appreciated.
Thank you.

no cost?

i believe this time is limited seat

Eh, you guys did not register for the alpha super workshop?
Someone from Sony called me this morning for confirmation of attendance.

Sony fb page mentioned it is free and the person called me did not ask for payment so I'm pretty sure the workshop is FOC.

before that, mind i ask your purpose? sound very fishy and un-practical your method of photography/videography.

also, the information you gotten/read from online is imcomplete and a little misleaded.

from your information, not sure if u are trying to do IR videography or something weird.

lens filter (the circular filter directly on the lens)
square filter (those Cokin, tianya, Lee, Singh-ray, rosco)
filter holder (use to hold the square filter)
filter(holder) adapter, used to screw on the lens, then used to hold the square holder.

i. before going deeper into ND stuff. lets talk bout the CPL, since ray cant give a proper english explanation that everyone can understand.

the variable ND, is by stacking two cpl, facing each other (meaning the other piece is Flipped) to work, by canceling each other other. by stacking the 3rd piece (flipped opposite of the 2nd flipped piece, noone tested it or no report of this test yet) i assume it will completely block up everything up to crazy amount of stop like 20-30 due to the multiplying effect. or it may has no special effect because the 3rd pieve and 1st piece will work the same as following;

as for putting 3 cpl facing the same side, nothing special will happen, the CPL will work at the highest polarizing effect, meaning it will polarize as much as any One of the highest polarizing angle CPL piece. say the 2nd piece is set at 90degree highest polarization, while the other 2piece is at 20degree and 45 degree, the image will polarized at highest of that 90degree. (i tested it)
but, you still can get stop reduction (light cut off) but its kinda pointless as it cause heavy color lost and u get weird color all over the places.

ii. like william said, stacking too much lens filter, will prologue out the front causing vignetting. even by using step up filter, the stepup filter itself already prologue 2mm outwards from the lens, wide angle lens definitely will catch that filter and cause vignetting. but base on your case, wide open aperture will be even worst vignetting.

iii. lets say you are using some magically technique and solved the vignetting issue. stacking many ND filter will work only if you do more research on the ND filter brand itself. u said ND are expensive, for a reason, they have minor color cast for the branded and expensive... B+W 77mm 10 stops ND costs US$149 in bhphoto, thats still under 500myr!, Lee big stopper rm7xx. if u get those cheapo china tianya, or the cheaper alternative cokins or 3rd party lens filter(circular) you going to have bad time trying to fix the color cast on post processing!

i used to have the b+w 10 stop before(sold it and upgrade to Lee). the biggest issue with the filter is, your camera cant even FOCUS (meaning losing ability to focus), nor your (assuming A7s?) will show bright image over the LCD, it will struggle to light gain it of 10 whopping stop! our sensor feed only manage best at 7-8 stops of light lose... but you can try~ because i myself had not testing it with A7s, but general experience lead me to the idea it will struggle to work...

then u have to unscrew to focus, then screw back to shoot, a very tedious and troublesome method, that why a lot ppl end up buying square filters system as it can take out and put back with ease.

my answer is base on experience where spec sheet will never able to show what outcome you will get. experience will let u know before buying the wrong shit and realized it dont work practically.

v. might i ask why 10/13/16 stops of ND? thats a lotttttt! from what i know, a) i used 50F1.4 with only 3 stop and i dont get any issue shooting under daylight assuming you not getting a 30sec exposure, and im not even sure  b) i would avoid directly sunlight as the harsh shadow is ugly, i will have some assistance holding a 120x80mm white/translucent reflector to cover the sun, giving a diffused light over subject.

vi. this bugged me a while. IR is a deep subject. you can skip the explanation. the short answer, UV and IR has no effect on digital camera. another long explanation how those 720nm IR filter works.

hence the filter you buy, when it doesnt mention IR filter or UV filter, it doesnt matter, its a old marketing way. that why branded filter company like b+W brand their coating as MRC (multi-resistant coating), not MC-UV like -other china company does.

so, IR is not relevant to filters.



But, indirectly, it is relevant for filter trying to cut off more then 4 stops. because color cast is caused by the IR light. cheap filter doesnt filter out IR properly hence it got the red/magenta color cast(IR spectrum)... and sadly, no filter company in the world reveal their chemical for the ND effect that tells you the amount of IR cutoff.

so by getting cheap or wrong ND filter, u end up cutting out normal visible light and becomes more and more like IR image due to the escaped IR light through the filter.

i only could say, only Lee Big Stopper has near complete neutral cutoff.
answer more later, back to work first.

im not familiar with Slog2 system, so, i wouldnt know how to get around it. sorry. at first i had a assumption that you doing IR video, because it has very similar case.

to be honest, you're going to do a lot testing on a lot filter before you get to the right ND filter. i lack of the experience to advise how the filter will react and cause what kind of color shift on high iso video when stacked more then 2 ND filters. iso itself will struggle and might read the wrong color. this doesnt worry me, what really worries me is when the stop are so high, the AF refuse to work (even contrast detect)... and the feed to LCD may turn pitch black too. not sure with A7s, but the last best sensor was the sony 24mp turn black display at 10stop(lee big stopper) facing the sun (sunset shot)
if its on 24mm, i dont know which 24mm its going to be, i assumed its not sony since sony doesnt has any F1.4 24mm. the step up filter doesnt do any good. because each lens is design differently and the requirement of filter clearance are diff. but please do consider square/holder system. There are holder system are design to avoid vignetting for UWA(with few condition too).

other case is, vignetting is a big subject, you might avoided filter vignetting entirely(not sure the correct word to use it), but u cant avoid a very natural soft vignetting that cause by F1.4, even without filter. so, you will required to do some post processing towards it, or, leave it alone since natural vignetting is kinda nice too, it helps to pop the subject in center.

lets Assume you are using 35mm, i will say you are safe from filter vignetting, but the natural F1.4 vignetting will still occur.

*correction, when we/i mention filter vignetting, i'm assuming a hard black mark on 4 side of the image even at F8. meaning the filter used prologue into the filter clearance. not the natural vignetting cause by the barrel itself.
before getting out of hand, lets use the word "screw on filter" circular may lead to diff misunderstanding type of 'effect' filter.
The answer would be simple, some branded holder filter system are designed to work with UWA. hence, its pretty much 'safe' to use. for example, the LEE holder, the adapter ring has 2 type, UWA adapter and standard adapter. the UWA adapter will bring/pull/push/???? the holder backwards, giving more clearance at the front. (try google it)
The crisscross effect happen in UWA and at certain degree of the VND filter (turn-able), usually happens when you overturn till the max at 9 stops. i wouldnt recommend it for your usage, because it will introduce a lot of new possible issue/problems along the way. but if you insist, Do Not Buy ANY Brands of VND.... except, LightCraft Workshop. LCW. dato lee chong wei filter. hehehehe joke aside. it is known as the BEST and mother of VND. very pricey thou. its like buying two B+W KSM CPL MRC Nano filter. close to 1k for the 77mm pro version.  thinking to upgrade my version I to version II for a long long time, but pocket empty... and btw, LCW has came out with a 100mm square VND (design for Lee square CPL holder), and i have totally no idea how it works... i suspect its a linear PL.

sadly to tell you,... the limitation of square holder to work on UWA is maximun of stackable filter are TWO...
color case happen when u stack certain resin filter aka Square type and certain brands... no matter its long or short exposure, the color cast will be there, its the issue of that chemical used, the ability to reduce visible light may be incomplete leaving certain type of light escape through. this you really have to try it out yourself. so you gotta make many photographer friends to see who has the b+w ND1000 and borrow to test it.
btw, there are many terms to ND, some put 10stop or ND1000, or 3.0. you will need to read up a little how they catagories them. the 3.0 actually means 10 stop, they calculate by 0.3 as 1 stop, hence 3.0 is 10 stop. the 1000x also mean 10 stop, but im not sure how they calculate it.

.... now.... come to settle your problem, F1.4@3200 with 1/50 at bright day light. honestly... stacking 2 ND filter isnt such great idea as it will create a lot limitation especially when using more then 10stops. my best advise, may sound very absurd so i apologies first, but, you can use a single 10stop, and not sure if its possible, coz i dont know its a controlled video environment or chasing around actual day wedding shoot with is not within your power to control, you can try choosing the right time/moment of the day when the sun isnt that harsh, eg early morning. but if its uncontrollable then sorry i dont know how to advise you. but i hope my explanation will clear up some doubt and question you had.

btw, it is okay for you to explain what/how slog2 works? maybe we can refine a solution from there.

Actually, for your issue, this is what I believe a variable ND is designed to take care of.

Stacking more filters in front will eventually degrade your final output anyway, no matter how expensive they are.

You just have to work around the limitations in the best possible manner.

so, is it possible to use neutral color profile(reduce contrast, saturation to flat), setting dro to level 3 (to lower contrast even more) and adjust contrast/saturation accordingly? and since at such low iso at 100, it shouldnt be any noise issue by dro gain? i think it might work since if you are doing color grading later, it should cause any big issue since its shot in low iso.

edit: then u wont have issue needing a 12stop filters.... a 10 stop will do just fine? then u might only need a 6 stop ND, then your AF might just work without problems and LCD feed maybe viewable?

this is the part im getting confuse. when u mention native iso3200, it means the highest native is 3200 right? because below that, those 1600 down to 200 is considered native iso too. right? need albert to verify this...

hello guys...i wanted to ask opinion regarding Sony A6000..i planning to try Mitakon 50mm f0.95 on it to making a videography..is it ok?
before the idea came,i was planning to take Canon 70D..can you give me a little idea and advice?thank you