So much junk stuff in my drawer that I don't want to use.

I found some keycaps set and even a bamboo handrest that I no longer gonna use.
Damn I need to get rid off these items.

Plate apa?
1800?
Poker?
or the one you book, ANSI 1.5x?

My picture of the night

Legends use all aluminum keyboard

Easier to just get Taobao PCB fabs to make for you.
Just supply the necesary files.

Printing your own PCB isn't hard especially with UV. Beats the ferric chloride method.
But good luck drilling those holes. You would have to deal with a few drill bit sizes, and alignment might be an issue. It's not your everyday undergraduate electronics project.

Just pay the money and get the China people to do for you.

@faridr
What's your problem with the spec sheet again?
Reading spec sheet I do that a lot. Writing firmwares...maybe not.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 23 2014, 11:53 PM

The rest are just biasing Pins.
Just see what others are doing and straight copy. Like XTAL/RESET etc.

Not sure whether you are using ADC in your firmware. My feel is that you don't use it. In that case, just bias it so that ADC is disabled. That means
AVCC is connected to VCC.
AREF should be left to be floating, or high , or low. Not sure..need to see what others are doing.
XTAL1 & XTAL2 to the crystal
RESET to an external reset circuit, preferably a push button.

Got EE background also no use.
These kind of things, if you don't do it, you don't know.

You can ask many EE, they gonna stare blank if you ask them how to control Leds individually. Myself included.

I'm not sure whether you can do a QFR-I. My advice is to start small. Or you can use Proteus to simulate.

Just take the power from the USB.

You want a through hole Atmega? Just use SMD la. Practice makes perfect. It helps if you have proper equipment as well.
I don't have problem going down to 0402. But if you want to start, 0805 or 0603 is fine. For the pin pitch of the SMD ATMEGA, just get a big and powerful solder iron with a very wide tip, and don't forget tons of flux. It's gonna be very easy. Lainlah if you use RM15 iron.

Just get an atmega breakout board. One of those TQFP to DIP converters. You can even practice your soldering skills on them. The Key is get tons of flux

Taobao Link

For Perf board, i absolutely despise that thing. They are horrible. Get a good quality breadboard and you should be fine.

Teensy is fine for prototyping, but man....it is pricey.
Can buy a lot of Atmega already


Or you know, just get the Arduino clones from Taobao, and flash the AVR bootloader on it and you should be good to go for prototyping.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 25 2014, 10:49 AM

plate mounted win>all

boring pcb mounted

Not cheap. Solder stuff need rm140

Tambah lubing dunno how much d.

My super experienced soldering technician/guru don't even make that much per hour.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 27 2014, 12:06 AM

Long time didn't build keyboard.
Come here to show this

Desolder Blue switch, that comes with stupid build in diode and PCB mount switches.
Pain in the behind to desolder, and to solder back, and to change

Steps:
Desolder Blue switch
Open all, put in clear stem and diode.
Place black sticker.
Solder

10 hours of hard labour


This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 29 2014, 12:41 AM

These are non lubed 62g clears. Build for friend.
62g unlubed is my favourite, as it is very tactile. Pretty much the only custom switch that I would use.

In terms of tactility, unlubed 62g.

Clear 62g for days when i feel like cherry, with mid actuation point. HHKB when i miss the pop and thock. 55g when i want more force. 45g when i get tired.

Though, 55g is what i am using mostly these days.


This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 29 2014, 01:40 AM

Sambil change stem, add diode, sambil watch show la.
10 hours bro.

Your fingers are very weak. You need more workout with the fingers.
If you think that browns are light, you need to consider Topre 30g, or Custom switch with 45g Korean spring.
Red and Brown are not 45g springs. They just actuate at 45g

The koreans have a different way of measuring the compression weight of the springs than what Cherry did with their actuation point method.

It's called the half plate.
Some people think that it is special. I think that it is just some ideas the koreans have that is just poorly executed.

Because it introduces flex on the PCB, making you type like pressing on pillow.
You want a Blue switch keyboard that clicks badly, here's your favourite plate to use.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jul 2 2014, 11:19 PM

Rinse and repeat
Yeah, i learn from youtube as well, but not from WFD.

General video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jpj3tilIaik

video with all the fancy terms (this size is what i usually solder)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jpj3tilIaik

Make sure you use a chisel tip. Not those conical tips for smd resistor soldering.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jul 3 2014, 08:34 AM

Retro is the black on beige color scheme. That is the color scheme you think of when someone tells you they have an old/retro keyboard.

The dsa retro on the other hand, while being a retro scheme, is only well known among these crazy mkb people/collectors because someone decide to organize a well managed group buy.

Missed out on Red Alert 1.0. The one organized by sixty and sourced from Korea. Lagi it was just RM250 for the whole thing
I know, right!!!