Supp guys. Anybody knows what's the problem if the meter display for my Kancil year 2006 850 Auto isn't shown clearly? It's like always bobbing around and not fully showing the gear reading and odo/trip meter.

-Edited-

This post has been edited by Chyan: Mar 7 2016, 10:11 PM

Drive so fast ah everyday?
So far my ED-DE block stock served me well.

My aircon fan motor died last week. Went for check up and replacement. Meanwhile service everything also. Engine oil, coolant, ATF fluid and alignment.

Btw, wanna ask something. When I turn my steering to the right, there's this toktoktoktok sound. What could it be?

Anybody knows what's the price for bug-eye kancil mudflaps?
Also, is it really necessary to change the whole meter box cos the ODO light isn't working ady plus some of the LCD aren't clear anymore. It's a 2004 EZI.

Hmm. That sucks but it's still usable so it's not a major problem.

My air-con compressor finally gave out the other day. It went haywire when I drove. Drastic loss of power and droning when accelerating.
Went to air-con shop, changed to new Denso compressor, Bando belting, Denso expansion valve, oil and full dismantle + cleaning all in all 650.
But now no more hissing sounds. Less rattle. Ticking minimized.

Guys, who changed their mounting?

When I stay in D and hit the breaks during jams it got quite noisy. I suspect the aircon guy kinda made something loose. But I'm not entirely sure.

Usually how much workshop charge for mounting and installation? Have to lift up the engine eh?

Apparently it's my fault also. airbox clip MIA ady. DIYed some clips and fasten it. Black metal paper clip handles.
Some soft material around dashboard helped.

But I have 1 priority to fix la. Whenever slowly turn to the right, there's the toktoktok sound. Bushing, cv joints, boots or drive shaft? Need to prep myself with diagnosis later people simply potong me.

Mine's ED-DE all stock. 20L can go up to 270+KM. I hantam pedal like 70% of the time in short bursts every morning. Kinda degraded also.

I better check it out then. I thought the CV joint is the most likely culprit.

Not sure about that. Engine bay head ok? If mushroom type I'm always wary of the placement. It might suck in hotter air. Your FC I think 660T downgrade might be a wiser choice.


Only auto is available for ED-DE. Kelisa 850cc engine. Mine is the highest spec Kancil with skimmed alloys.

TBH, I think 4AT is more efficient than my zaman kuno 3AT. So I doubt that is the cause. More likely it's your AC compressor. Used Denso or a more powerful aftermarket one?


Been there, done it bro. Except my AC condenser kong ady. RM600 gone.
Changed to recon Denso compressor (380), expansion valve (80), receiver drier (60), Bando aircon-belting (30), cleaning/servicing/flushing systems, refill compressor oil etc (-/+ 60). Thankfully cooling coil is in good condition.

Now cold af. No more loud clicking noises. Car also runs better. More pickup liao.

This post has been edited by Chyan: Jun 21 2016, 09:43 PM

At least you know how much it should actually costs now. Don't kena potong.
http://www.lelong.com.my/perodua-kancil-sd...7-01-Sale-I.htm

Should be right around 150-200.

I also had my radiator motor replaced. Mine is 11 years old now. Needs a lot of taking care as parts are wearing off.

This fellaknows a lot about AC systems, I read the qs and answers before I went to get mine checked.

This post has been edited by Chyan: Jun 21 2016, 10:13 PM

I wouldn't judge the external look of the item. But for me as long as it's not worn out internally, it should be fine. But used item might be a hit or miss. If it's more than my recond Denso price, I suggest you look elsewhere.

This guy did his own and bought a used Mira unit for <200. Check out half-cut workshops for a bargain maybe?

Just make sure your fan works if the engine temperature goes over half. If not, you've got a problem there.

Getting the toktoktok sound when giving slow turns.

Need to replace CV joint or just the rubber boot?
Driver side is still ok.

Should be the long drive shaft instead of the short drive shaft right? Driving 2005 EZI EFI ED-DE if that matters.

This post has been edited by Chyan: Jul 2 2016, 10:48 PM


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I checked around for the prices of the shaft. It's market price I think. Thanks for the input! Need to go to bengkel for diagnostics I guess.

Changing shaft would cause less problems in the long run I think. Probably will hold onto this car for 1/2 years. 2005 EZi Twincam in mint condition now from what I've surveyed is around 10-12K at least. I quite sayang the car although I've owned the car for less than half its age. Polish selected areas and wax 2 months at a time. I'll just rinse and wipe after that.

Yes. It's basically the 850cc Kelisa engine with a smaller bore compared to the 1.0 version. That and the addition of power side mirrors and skimmed alloys made it priced that way. 6% depreciation rate from what I've check 2 years back. Not bad lah.

This post has been edited by Chyan: Jul 7 2016, 04:44 PM

That means ours damn rare. Retro 3 speed auto some more.
I think swapping to a 4 speeder Cuore gearbox also no problem.

Roughly 600-750 if consider everything have to be changed.

Gais. My auto SLK is shaking during D with aircon on. It's unbearable. RM400 for ori mounting ok? ED-DE engine. It's fine without A/C in D.

Can anybody respond?

Same car here. The sound occurred only when slow turning or just normal driving?
Mine is the steering bush rod. I've replaced it on one side + the rubber boot was torn as well. Any service center will do. They will have the parts. Mind you ours Auto DOHC EZi model has a different bushing set as well as diff. engine mounts.