Normal, ABS self-test.

Just a single 'TAK'. It was there since I bought the car.

Preve Premium CFE? It is from Bosch. Called Bosch Multimedia Compact. Cannot be changed to Garmin of Papago. Better get a new head unit if you want to change the GPS.

It is also used by Suzuki SX4 Style:




Opel Corsa:


And Nissan, with some UI update:


And you must have heard it, "Please drive onto a digitised road"

It is adequate for me. I can listen to radio, MP3. The sound is decent. I already got a reverse camera connected to it. As for navigation, I'm using Garmin Nuvi 3592. Route calculation is VERY FAST. Map is very good, and free too.

I'm looking for a replacement head unit, but none is available yet that fits my needs.

My requirements:
* 6" or larger screen
* Internet connected
* Able to run waze & google maps
* Can install torque & read bluetooth obdII adapter
* movie playback
* youtube
* DAB (Digital Audio Broadcast) & DVB-T (Digital Video Broadcast-Terrestrial) for future proofing
* GPS with free & timely map updates


Some of the requirements can be met by Kenwood DNN9330BT & Clarion NX702A. Until then, I'm happy with stock head unit & my Garmin Nuvi 3592 (which is android based btw, with google maps & waze)

I have looked into mirror link, even wireless mirror link. It is a stop-gap measure to what I really want, a car computer. The best choice that is available for me right now is a "rooted" kenwood DNN9930BT. But review of a similar product, Kenwood Excellon DNN990HD (in the US), reveal problems of software hanging, haywire USB. Essentially buggy software. So I'm simply in waiting mode, getting the funds ready when the next generation of Android Head Unit comes out and fits my needs.

If all else fails, then that is the way.

This is what I'm looking at currently:


It runs on Android 4

What's missing?
* software still somewhat unstable and buggy (next version should be better I hope)
* locked software, I can't install what I want from Google Play

So that's why I'm just waiting. Version 2 of Kenwood's Android head unit might have what I want.

There's no VGT for petrol engine. The exhaust gas from petrol engines is too hot and make the variable vanes unreliable. A simpler method is to use twin scroll, i.e. 2 exhaust scrolls in the turbine side. That is what BMW, KIA et. al. are using.

T&C Apply. It says RM66K if NCD 55%. You don't know what other terms to get the RM66K. You only know when you enquire in person.

Don't trust the SA, trust the engineers. They wrote the manual. And the recommended API SL 10W30 mineral or better. That means Syntium 3000 5W40 is very good enough for CFE. The engine was developed with help froum Lotus and designed to work with low viscosity engine oils. The turbo is Borg Warner KP39, and used by other car makers such as Ford and VW. VW recommends 5W40 and Ford recommend 5W30.

Don't worry about 5W or 10W, just worry about the last part, i.e W40, W30.

FYI I'm using Syntium 5000 0W30.

For Proton, no online version. But have got for Vauxhall Antara, which uses the same Bosch Multimedia Compact as Preve CFE. Just that it is rebadged as Opel Touch & Connect.

http://www.vauxhall.co.uk/content/dam/Vaux...3_low%20res.pdf

Probably also the effect of the cooler air temperature due to current rainy season. I can feel the car effortlessly accelerating right after a long heavy rain. Though I don't go fast due to slippery road, I can feel the acceleration is smoother.

I have Torque and bluetooth OBD2 adaptor. In clear air, cruising at 80 kph, the Intake Air Temp (IAT) is 40*C. During traffic jams, it goes to 75*C. That seems quite hot, but once you start moving it quickly goes down back to 40*C.

I'm sure it was retarded. I was cruising at 80 kph, steady state, low load, closed loop. I like to know these things so that I know what is normal for the car. That way, I can get advance warning when something is going to go wrong by looking at the data.

75*C was during traffic jam. It is a turbo car, so it is hotter. You a not moving, thus you get heat soak. You are taking in hot air heated by exhaust gasses from cars around you. So yeah, traffic jams are bad.

Is it necessary? I feel the performance is adequate for a family sedan. Even when heat soaked, the cooling system is good enough to keep the temps where they should be, and the performance does not degrade too much.

Or you could just put to "S mode" and let the RPM maintain at peak HP. That's the beauty of CVT

I bought it from garage sales
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...=bluetooth+obd2

I think mine is the old version, the transparent blue one. I leave it in the car, connected to the OBD port.

Does it get disconnected or hang? YES unfortunately. It's cheap, if you need more robust data logging that adapter is not it. HOWEVER, you can set a few settings, such as disable "Faster communication" and enable "Disable ELM327 auto timing adjust (Slow mode)" in Torque. Now I can get 1.5 hours of connection with the ODB. The update rate is a little slow, about 1 per second, but it is OK for me as it is just for observation data.


This is the reading from my OBD today, during jam in Federal Highway. I was creeping along in traffic, and the IAT is quite high:


A few minutes later when traffic clears, I got to 80 kph and the temps quickly goes down. Here I am decelerating (foot off the pedal, that's why the fuel flow is so low and it is deep in vaccuum:


This post has been edited by sanadi: Apr 27 2014, 10:54 PM

That's the result of "Slow mode" option in Torque, for more stable connection with the OBD2 Adapter. I think some sensors are polled differently.

Alignment & balancing is always better to do outside. That is the speciality of tyre shops.