Pay me enough, I redo your exhaust then to see the magic Inb4 u check my fuelly

pm me price bro.. haha..

Manyak kasihan mana ini?

Anti Roll Bar pon kata expansive, customize ekzos lagi tak payah ceita dah

Previously use Germain's Liqui Molly 10w30 engine oil can last 7000km but 4 months later only traveled 4000 - 5000km, i guess every 3 months must change regardless of millage clocked.

So, plan to use Idemitsu 10w30 (5000km) for next round, any issue using Japanese oil on Savvy Renault engine?

or suggest alternative oil for low usage. Thanks in advance.

20w50 mineral oil.
tesco choice EO.

Previously use Germain's Liqui Molly 10w30 engine oil can last 7000km but 4 months later only traveled 4000 - 5000km, i guess every 3 months must change regardless of millage clocked.

So, plan to use Idemitsu 10w30 (5000km) for next round, any issue using Japanese oil on Savvy Renault engine?

or suggest alternative oil for low usage. Thanks in advance.

1 year also ok. just get fully syntetic.

1 year also ok. just get fully syntetic.

Engine oil talk

Fubar20 TitanRev

I know you guys have your idea on how motor oil benefit the car. Here's my piece to chip in despite I'm not particular and have very little knowledge on engine oil. I've been driving several years, changing engine oil almost every 3 month, sometimes twice when I hit 3000 miles too soon. Due to cost of motor oil start increasing, I found I'm paying more and more on the vehicle maintenance, so I start to dig more info from magician. Helping to overhaul engine benefit the most in terms of technical knowledge and understand how motor oil affect engine performance.

Rule of thumb, buy engine oil with API stamp. Here's a link, please download and print a copy put inside your car. The next time when you wanna purchase motor oil, make sure you read the ratings whether its SN/SJ/SM/SL.

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoi...2010_120210.pdf

With API ratings, you'll get an idea how these engine oil comply to your power unit. Your motor vehicle rely on the chemical inside the motor oil to survive friction. The viscosity only meant very little, but the API rating worth the most. Hence, when you use cap ayam motor oil, despite they put down 10w60, that does not mean the molecule can stand your car's 10.1:1 compressrion ratio with 400'c extreme heat during the ignition. Be it 10w100, it doesn't make any difference when the oil being channeled into the combustion chamber.

However, don't take my word as a whole. The viscosity does yield it's importance. For instance 10w40 multi-visco simply means 10 comes suffixed with W, meaning WINTER(not weight/watt as claim by others) for cold start viscosity. The 40 after W is hot viscosity. The front winter denote has lower figure, meaning the liquid has lower "beku" point. Sorry ran out of vocabulary. The hot visco higher denote a higher boiling point. You don't want oil to boil, just like your mommy cooking in the kitchen.

I've seen many horrible incident's while helping customer to do engine overhauling. Unsurprisingly, most of them having problem with their motor, they tend to miss their oil change quite often, sometimes up to few years did not change oil at all. Before dismantle an engine for overhaul, as I loosen the oil sum nut, I'll be extremely careful to not let oil spill on my hand. These burnt oil can irritate my skin and cause allergy. However, most of the time after the sum nut being pull off, there aren't any oil drip out. Even if there is, very little and very thick. Got once we unable to drain anything out from the sum, because those oil already turned grease. Can imagine how not to jammed the pistons?





Thinner hot viscosity oil does not mean you have less chance building up sludge, infact it's the opposite. Otften I ask magician why not fully synthetic as those expansive oil usually added cleaning agent, can last up to 6000 miles. The answer is simple, recycle the same oil in the engine can only make those oil turn into sludge. Debris and dirt to have more opportunity to form a bigger object between molecule, hence sludge start to build.



I used to worship 76 racing motor oil 10w40 for NASCAR, until my car start to emit white smoke and finally ended up with a full overhaul. Again, I did the overhaul by myself with assistance of magician to find that not much sludge built up, but the piston ring has been fully grounded off. Lesson learned as magician explain, usually racing motor oil does meant for racing. Those oil wouldn't last more than few thousand miles as it degrade faster than normal oil from the market. The dangerous part is, motor oil should form a film of coating on engine parts, but the degraded oil does not. It will be fully drained to the sump. Believe it or not, your engine life were shorten each time you crank start it, not when you taking it to the redline(provided the redline figure is properly balanced on your crankcase).

From the above little knowledge I gained from magician, I've been practicing frequent oil change. For your information, VTEC oil is rated SAE10w30 have no problem running at 8krpm.

1 year is too long, regardless synthethic or what. Follow the recommended interval which is 6 months. My Inspira change oil every 6 months eventhough i use full synthethic and very low mileage.

Previously use Germain's Liqui Molly 10w30 engine oil can last 7000km but 4 months later only traveled 4000 - 5000km, i guess every 3 months must change regardless of millage clocked.

So, plan to use Idemitsu 10w30 (5000km) for next round, any issue using Japanese oil on Savvy Renault engine?

or suggest alternative oil for low usage. Thanks in advance.

Every 6 months ok lar. No need every 3 months. And yes, change it regardless how many miles you have used.

the workshop pasted a service record decal indicating only 3-4months interval, are u sure every 6 months is recommended for savvy?

so for low usage users here, what engine oil and filter u are most happy about?