I thought market already have ready stock for C21LNR

As per above, if got ready made why not buy outside and install straight away, might wanna consult nestum regarding PU bush for Ishwaga. If really dun hab, ma die die custom make lor. Please go to Shaga Ishwaga tered and start a bulk there 1 piece you want good pricing meh

Welcome to the small family. Fuel pam sudah stat kacau, kasi tukak, itu meter pon akan kembali mia. steering mmg takleh ejes.

If your previous owner got provide service record, please check for last service is when and you shall follow the service record and carry on with the regular service interval. If you don't get any information from previous owner, best is see your odometer how much the car has clocked. As long the number getting closed to 80k or 160k, chances are timing belt may be changed or haven't changed. It's better to send to pomen ask them check on your behalf. Get the timing belt replace if need be. This is standard practice of buying a used car, not only Shawie. Basically if the car has nothing abnormal, that means it's going to be fine.

That's me. Bearing munyik "ngong ngong ngong ngong ngong ngong ngong ngong " bile bawak keatai certain speed. Lagi laju lagi dia ngong. Tapi itu klu bearing rosak la. If not, the spindle will not make noise. By the time you know the spindle kacau, tayar sudah cabut Usually, when your bearing kerap jahanam, that's when the spindle sudah stat haus, that's why the bearing kenot sit still, as a result cipat rosak.

Klu dah jadik amik 14", itu 15" tolong simpan bagi saye. Sile PM saye harga tolak. Tengkiu

Bro, itu meter minyak kat desbod ade main perangai kah? Kejap naik abih, kejap tinggal 1 bar blinking? Klu slalu camtu, mmg fuel pam dah mau kaput

Klu TDC sensor, biasenye cuma takleh stat.

Klu petrol filter sumbat, naj stat balik pon takleh dah.

Itu saye tulis bagi Plotong GaGa mia, bukan Shawie Shawie single cam, lagi starter single stock solenoid, munyik talak macam GaGa.

GaGa = Wuekekeke vroom (WUEK - solenoid sambung starter gear & pusing stroke1, KEK1 - stroke2, KEK2 - stroke3, KEK3 - stroke4, VROOM - injin idup!)

Shawie = CEK CEK CEK CEK Bem (cek1 - stroke1, cek2 - stroke2, cek3 - stroke3. cek4 - stroke4. Bem - injin idup!)

Nape beza? Sebab relay wiring beza, starter beza.
Starter jenis sama dgn Shawie - Semua Produa Mybi, Ganjil, Kebisa, Plotong GaGa/Ishwaga lama jenis kotak mancis, Datsun 120Y, Toyol ke70 & manyak lagi.

Yang same ngan Plotong GaGa berinjin Kampro, kebanyakan Hongda performans lama, Civig EK, EG, yg berinjin B16, D15, B18, B20. Yang signature representative bagi starter jenis nie, pi carik Hongda Agord SV4, tunggu owner datang stat keta & dengarlah muzik die



Shawie ade stat injin trabelshoting guide agak rumit ciket. Bile wa cukup mase nanti buat 1 more proper write up purposely utk Shawie bih baek.

Mungkin kelapa bat3 longgar kot?

Ok con9lan7firm fuel pam dah kacau. Itu "uuuttt" hanya ade bila mase fuel pam masih berfungsi agi. Kalau die tak "uuutt" maka mase tu tiade fungsi. Agipun, "uuutttt" je takpe la. Yg teruk mia macam Plotong GaGa, TEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET sampei mati injin Bile mase beli keta mmg siok dengar munyik tu, macam lah fighter jet ke ape performans mesin yg handal. Skang dah bertahun² dengar munyik tu, mcm lah dudok atas mesin basuh

Ini GaGa aku, yg Shawie tiade gambar. Bukak seat belakang, yg tengah itu menda mcam milo tin mia cover, fuel pam kat sana. Nape? Nak DIY ke? Klu saye tak silap, kalu fuel pam mau bukak belakang torsion beam kena mau kuar, pastu fuel tank kena turun baru boleh bikin Tanya NOX la. Biasenye hor, nape fuel pam asyik rosak? Sebab slalu tangki tak cukup isi. Itu fuel pam mia motor sedup angin deswai lah overheat Lagi pon, ini cuntry mia minyak berkualiti dah smua export pi negara laen, yg sendiri pakei mia smua minyak cap petai + air sabun Nak keta sihat? Susah ciket la. Nasebaek Shawie nie murah nak belik. Klu dah belik keta mewah, takut pulak nak pakei petol RON95, bayar 2.7/litre petol yg jenis LEBIH SABUN. Mungkin lambat ciket rosak kot

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 18 2014, 10:32 AM

Tidak dapat mengerti kamu. Laen kali tolong bikin video, kasi rakam itu munyik bagi aku. Taupon, nanti hang datang TT Jumaat kita sama² trabelshot (malam Sabtu la, I know the day before manyak importen).

Ok I guess we go way too much out with our language. I'm not disagreeing you, but looking at the way you do, everything is in order. All the oldschool way of getting a car started has been done. Even the 1 that NOT supposed to do you also did(pull the car in 3rd gear to charge the alternator). I don't know how by disconnecting battery lug and reconnect back can make the car starts, but now I start to believe that is due to TDC sensor. Other than that, I also like to know can't start as in how can't start?

Wuekekekekekekkekekekekekek - no start?
Wuek... bin bin bin bin - Starter pusing skali, then alarm sound, starter no turn anymore?
Wuk..ke..ke..ke..ke..ke.....kekekekekekek(turn faster when you press gas pedal)...... ke..ke..ke..ke..(slow when you release gas pedal)

Usually a car hard to start after 1st attemp failed, the consequences is combustion chamber flood(petrol overflow).

This 1 is speed sensor izit? Just changed mine last year, RM68 if not mistaken. Forgot ady.

Yup that looked alot like battery lug loosen. It can looked tight and could be still tight, may be bad contact surface nia. U ever seen people car breakdown, they have no idea ape tu rosaked, but still bukak bonnet pusing sini, usik sana pretend like expert. Manatau tiba² dah stat pulak die pon entah ape terjadik

Speed sonsor



TDC sensor

Just a few more days to reach 1 year, my HIFLY upset me with pregnancy Total clocked 26002km so far. Photo later to be added

Fuah! Oteh!!! Wa mau test! Wasn't suspect your vacuum leak also. By now it should yield much better output. Meanwhile, bile hang ade balek Semban? Gua tengah pikir nak arrange bulk dyno run in Semban if you're interested lar

p/s: Btw, bape kena bikin itu plug seal? Cat oren tu bikin skali bile repair plug seal? Saye nak Chilli Red boley?

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 18 2014, 11:44 PM

AMT or MT, the engine/gearbox is entirely same. The only difference is, AMT has a robot sitting there to manipulate your clutch and shifting work, whereas MT only got 1 clutch cable and 2 shift links, which require human intervention. So, TDC sensor will kaput regardless AMT or MT. Mine also kena ady last year

Torsion beam trailing arm PU bush bulk


Reason: To have firmer trailing arm movement, precise weight shifting. Rear end of the car appear to be more neutral. It can prolong rear damper lifespan, as well as stock spring strength. Generally, polyurethane is plastics, can last extremely long compare to organic rubber bushing.
Side effect: For slow car fast driver, tend to over speed their corners due to over confidence. Neutral, meaning easy to turn, also meaning too much weight shifting can result in oversteer. An event of uncontrollable oversteer = lost control = crash. Tight trailing arm also meaning will have squeeking sound if not lubricate well. Lack of trailing arm movement can be annoying when going through rough roads, can crush your balls. Danger replacement part, for the non fainted heart! Use at your own risk.
Vehicle type: All BT2 & BT3 from PL1 family
Price: Unknown yet
Fabricator: e-lite
Quantity: In pair
Dealing method: Cash before fabrication
Bulk start date: TBA(after price negotiation and firming up the minimum numbers)
Bulk end date: 1 week from start date

1. davidke20
2. davidke20
3. NOX
4. li_5997
5. kenjilew
6. r3apers
7. Maxwell6635
8. Mahihi
9. V12kompressor
10. zeone
11. TitanRev
12. ericmaxman
13. ruby1288

Ladies and gentlemen, show me your interest in this. Put down your name so I can start counting. Fill in the number so we can negotiate a good price. Whoever shown interest, and if in the end the number can't make up to the bulk target, I will personally fill up the nearest pricing value. Good stuff I'm not afraid cannot sell later, infact I'm gonna jack up price for those who missed the bulk later.

Dear all, a billion apologize, I have some 1st hand knowledge passed down from foot work expert. I decided to cancel the bulk purchase for everyone's safety. Should you still be interested, may consult e-lite directly to further the deal and firm up with the best price. So, here's some input I shall share with you all incase if you wish to know.

1) There's a reason, for non existence of trailing arm PU bushing in the market
2) Even if there is, it has to be custom make and not too popular among the aftermarket mod society
3) Torsion beam is not quite flexible compare to MacPherson strut on multi link.
4) Torsion beam movement is entirely relying on trailing arm, moving on radial movement
5) Having a solid PU bush on the trailing arm pivot, can greatly reduced the flexibility of radial movement for the trailing arm
6) Lack of radial movement on uneven road = hop = no grip = lose control

Regardless how good your tyre is; Regardless how great damper/spring suspension kit you've installed; Regardless how well you handle your steering wheel, the tail is in the SKY Now I know why LAN ENGINEERING not providing the rear PU bush as standard package unless special request.

The good HIFLY China make, had served me 26k mileage. I must say, for RM125/donut is extremely affordable, given the low rolling restriction(better fuel consumption), silent and soft, with decent wet traction.



By the time it got off from the car, the thread marker still have about 40% left. If it wasn't cause by my reckless driving, believe it can last up to 50k km without issue. Take note on the tyre at the bottom has marked where it's bloated due to steel belt snapped. It was caused by long nail punctured my tyre. I guess I'm just having bad luck, otherwise they will continue to serve me another atleast 10~20k I believe.



New shoes from nestum, so now I have ATR K-Sport on the all 4 corners.



This, has to be done to protect the new shoes.

Since done ady, what to argue? It seems abit pricey though. U sure no touch other thing?