Update: Done quite a bit more mods like HKS GT2 turbo, Greddy cams and boost controller, 850cc injectors and 255lph fuel pump, water/methanol kit, piping kit, downsize to 17x9 lightweight rims, using Amsoil 0w40 oil. On long distance now managed to reach 8.5km/ltr, city still about the same around 6km/ltr.
Hahaha never really measure, as long as I can match or beat AMG CLA/A45 then I am happy enough. Planning to swap to aftermarket ECU (either Link G4 or Haltech plugin) then can retune for more aggressive mapping, maybe ron100 w/ 50% meth ratio @ 1.7 bar, hopefully can reach 390-400whp. Wouldn't go more than that coz still stock internals.
only way to beat amg launch control is more torque & power!!!.... hahaha
your getting to twin charger territory liao... impressive man
I keep seeing ppl who drive saga blm mt get over 13~16km/L. How do you guys achieve that? I drive so lightfoot the most i can get is 9.75km/L I upshift when I am 2k rpm and my speed is always at 80kmh still cannot pump the number over 10 sia
40% city 60% highway
slow n steady... fast upshift at low rev... is wrong method
you are spending lots of time at lowish gears... and engine running at suboptimal conditions... both will cause bad mileage
you want to get to cruising speed asap... so if car 0-100 is 13s, try to do it in say 18-26s...but don't over-rev or red line. small cc engines are designed for higher rev. my 1.5 swift I rev to 3k for gear shifts...
I doubt saga can get 13 to 16km/L. its a farking old tenchnology. if u not believe, go see fuelly website. Its average is like 11km/L. Clearly someone tokok.
btw, u cant really compare exactly the fc. Yes, both of u might drive 100% at city. but one person need to face 10 traffic light, while another person need to face 0 traffic light. yes, both are 100% city drive, and due to this both cars fc will be different.
u already drive very economical. keep it up. nothing u can do anymore. road condition might not on ur side.
we do get ppl here use eco tire pump to 45 psi...lol
It was worst when I am using shell petrol, around 8~8.5km/l I actually bought this car as second hand to have a ride to go university so I have no idea when was the last maintainance made by last owner except engine oil and filter.
Do changing iridium spark plug makes fc better?(milleage now 106k,bought when at 83k) I been planning to change my o2 sensor and spark plug for a long time but i am afraid they are just a waste of money
not just maintenance... sometimes is also equipment manufacturing tolerances usually ±5-10%, can cause quite a bit of difference... if my car is at +10%...your car at -10%... it's now 20% difference between our cars...
case in point... my bff and I bought same batch wira, stay same area, work same office... my mileage was much better than him, we could not understand why... he send his car to few places for checking all came out no problem...
no need iridium unless you wanna keep car for long time...but new plugs do help. no need o2 sensor unless you know got problem... ie can smell petrol after driving a while, or exhaust pipe not clean, etc. simple way to test for good combustion is raining and cold morning, see if exhaust got lots of water vapor coming out...if no vapor most likely too rich
This post has been edited by dwRK: Nov 1 2020, 10:00 AM
I read the sweet spot for most engine is between 2k to 3k rpm. And I always shift gear in that zone. btw, on city really hard to measure fc, sometimes the main culprit is road and traffic which we cannot control.
Frequent brakes and accelerate: fuel wasting.
the sweet spot is actually within the power band...between peak torque and peak power....say 4k to 7k... but we don't usually try to do century run ah from every traffic lights... hahaha
so the comfortable gear change ends up just before or around the peak torque rpm... old engine around 4-5k, modern around 3-4k... except rotary around 7-9k...
I enjoy driving...so I don't worry about fc... but since I know the "secret to good fc" , my fast launching and higher speed don't sap my fc too much... hahaha
I try shift above 3k rpm b4 for my car, the fc shot high up.lol. really depends on car maybe.
btw, I had experience various rpm shift. and Its quiet tiring process. btw, still for my car, its between 2k to 3k rpm.
ah my numbers refer to rpms before the peak torque curves.... modern engines they designed for good low end torque and the curve is very flat... easy driving 1.8-2.5k wanna start changing gears liao... no issue lah
the higher rpm shifts are to get to cruising speed asap... idea being extra fuel burn in the short launch is offset by low fc during the longer drive... so must depends on situation
yeah... all the ideal rpm shifts are car specifics
Shift as early as possible without lugging ur engine..I dont really agree with max efficiency achieve at 3k to 4k rpm. Had u test shift at 2500rpm and it return worse fuel economy than 3-4k rpm?. If u said, just a bit more only, then it is acceptable. If u said, 2500rpm is suck more than 3-4k then I respect ur car.
Its same like argument here b4 where someone said 110kmh is the optimal efficiency of his cars, while majority cars out there optimal efficiency is at 80kmh to 90kmh.
Btw, have a look, demonstration show best fuel efficiency is achieve when changing gear at 1500rpm to 3000rpm
I don't really focus at rpm tbh...I just listen to the car, when it shifts down it isn't struggling
what I can tell is this, if I drive gentle follow crowd my fc is bad...if drive more aggressive my fc is good... example car1, 6.5 vs 6.1, car2, 4.8 vs 4.5... l/100km
each car has different/ideal rpm band...also % savings different... there's no perfect rpm or perfect speed... it all depends on knowing the car... when I get a new car, I always look for the engine curve to give more insights on how best to drive it....
edit: after watching video... he/i not doing/saying anything different... let me explain a bit more... engine works well with about 80% loading, my higher rpm faster gear shift is to give the engine this load, if you shift up too fast, the loading is excessive engine will struggle and use more fuel, if you stay in gear too long, the loading diminishes and you use more fuel, similarly if you over rev, the the loading diminishes as well, and use more fuel, it is this balance to give constant loading to get up to cruising speed where you will find the best fc
This post has been edited by dwRK: Nov 1 2020, 09:21 PM
Tbh, fuel consumption not much difference between speed. Lets say someone cruise 80kmh with someone cruise 100kmh.
The main culprit is acceleration. that is why cannot launch fast fast. Yeah, I met a lot people like u, fast launch then long driver hope the fc will be efficient. its not.
if u got fc reading on dashboard, u try drive 1) 2k rpm, then cruise 100kmh 2) 4krpm, then cruise 80kmh.
I had try above method and Option 1 is more fuel efficient. But option 1 cannot be follow by someone who easily butthurt at traffic light and want to win drag race like what 90% malaysian driver are.
I dunno why, the option 2 just dont work. Maybe too much fuel burning during that short period of times. No need to glance so frequently la bro..sometimes also can..the most important is rights leg is consistent.
fast launch doesn't mean burn rubber lah... aiyoh taken out of context a bit...hahaha... np
i meant fast/steady acceleration to cruising speed... so move through the gears quickly but do so without over rev, without dragging, or lugging when shifting up, is the key. 4k maybe over rev a bit that's why your fc suffer
anyways, most of the time i can meet manufacturers mileage claims...so i know i'm doing it right... also high speed do sap fuel...my cars have fuel meter so i know for sure
Cruising speed is the most efficient phase in any car..We use company car, my kolik drive at middle lane between 100kmh to 120kmh, but when times comes to overtake middle lane, he always rev, overtake then enter into middle lane back.kek. While me drive consistent 140kmh, very minimal rev. Even no use brakes, just let off from throttle if find slow cars.
U guess what, my driving style more economical.lol.
High speed may sap fuel, but its not as damaging as people think. But I do see if people drive fast they like brake hard when approaching slower cars then rev acceleration like mad want to achieve back high speed.
Its like high speed cruise but steady vs high speed but rough, got a lot of difference.
you're complicating the issue.... constant 140 will use more gas than constant 100... for sure
and erratic driving style will hurt fc...as you know
My idea it save fuel for bigger engine where even on 140kmh, rpm stay below 3k rpm
But if it a Viva Elite, at 140kmh the rpm hovering at 4.5k then it drink fuel a lot
correct... high cc engines got enough torque/power to run more efficiently ~1.8k rpm @ 140 kmh than small cars... small cars will need to run at slower speed to be as efficient, if at same speed will drink a lot
This post has been edited by dwRK: Nov 5 2020, 07:49 PM
and back to viva topic, I dont know why so many zoom fast fast flying on highway. its should be for fuel efficiency. but they all drive fast, beat the purpose. small engine drive up to 150kmh.kek. dunno what they trying to prove.
Here's spreadsheet I developed to compare transmission of various car type at redline and 3000rpm. It shows their theoretical top speed if not limited by engine power or electronic.
More powerful engine can afford to have wider overdrive gear ratio thus cruise at lower rpm, it is the transmission.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Gearbox change speed and torque. A 10 to 1 (10:1) speed reduction gear set reduce the speed from driver to driven gear by 10x, it also amplify the torque by 10x. In overdrive, it is the other way round 1:2 ratio double the output speed, but drop the torque by half.
cool... would be interesting to also fix a constant speed, say 120 kmh for the final gear, then work backwards to see engine speed... with this can check where it sits on the torque and power curves
also another good speed to test is 70 kmh... why 70?...because some automatics with 8/9 gears will downshift from overdrive and run on gear 7 or 6... this will burn more fuel compared to lower powered car running on overdrive... lol
This post has been edited by dwRK: Nov 5 2020, 10:11 PM
Car Type : Proton Saga BLM 1.3 (5MT) Driving Condition : Highway 95% + City 5% Petrol Used : Petronas 95 Fuel Consumption (self measured) : 9.5km/L or 10.5L/100km Average Speed : 120km/h Top Cruising speed : 160km/h Mileage : 38X'XXX km Mileage / year : 45'000 km Engine Modification : None, NEW Intake air filter every 5000km. Car Type : VW Passat B8 2.0HL (6DCT) Driving Condition : Highway 80% + City 20% Petrol Used : Petronas 95 Fuel Consumption (self measured) : 9.5km/L or 10.5L/100km Average Speed : 130km/h Top Cruising speed : 170km/h Mileage : 10'XXX km Mileage / year : ????? Engine Modification : None, NEW Intake air filter every 10'000km.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Both same driving style (up to capability of engine) =D
Says a LOT about the fuel economy of large modern turbo engines coupled with DCTs.
it's not as simple as modern turbo + dct... it's all about matching engine power/torque with good gear ratios for the weight+load of the car
I drove a 3.5L NA, normal 6 speed auto, 2000kg 8 seater once, and it does better than your 9.5km/l...
This post has been edited by dwRK: Dec 28 2020, 09:03 PM
Both drive 170kmh, but one accelerate madly from 110kmh to 170kmh, while another accelerate gently from 110kmh to 170kmh. Both will get very different fc reading.
And as always, u will disagree with me. Sometimes its really hard for someone to accept other people opinion rights.lol.
agree on your 1st para
the main point of my reply is on the first para...2nd para was to support that matching engine/gearbox/weight is important...but you make me rethink that maybe is a bit out of context here as comparison...maybe a better example is needed
I've never really been forced (by trafffic confitions) to drive avg 90-110 yet (i travel KL -Terengganu often, time is late night and early morning), but if full highway should be lower 8 to 7 L/100km.
The new passat B8.5 with slightly detuned engine and 7DCT should take it a bit further if full highway =D
But as i mentioned, normally if anyone decided for a car of this caliber, fuel economy is just the icing on the cake (^-^)"
curious which kl-kt road you take...via gua musang or karak?
Oct 31 2020, 03:47 PM
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I upshift when I am 2k rpm and my speed is always at 80kmh still cannot pump the number over 10 sia 
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