Oh melaka.. Not under my radar..😅😅

What's the reasonable price for y16 in your opinion?
I absolutely won't rush for rm13k. just keep saving money until fair price or probably y16 v2 for new color.

average at 9-13k.
susah nak dapat stok.... baru announced mc0.... adui

Reasonable for Y16zr is around rm12k.
Ingat eh insurans motor ni mahal sebab harga tinggi.

Bertabah lah. Dah tempah kah?



Another option is Rs150. Memang tgh turun harga sebab cukai bawah 150cc dikurangkan

tak dapat surat cross border… kedai motor cuti…… tabar…

Kedai kilang semua jalan macam biasa. So... book je lah.. Nanti dah habis pkp boleh ride di kesas/nkve/plus.
As for me, can't wait to try it from jb to kl.


Based on my online review, Y16zr banyak goodies.
But the price of Rm3k more, well, slightly overkill.




But hey, it's yamaha. Dealer pun Mark up harga. 🤬😡

Hello guys, selamat hari raya

anyway just want to ask what brand of monoshock is good for long term? current sitting at Aji Racing and YSS because i heard KYB and RCB cepat lembut one..my monoshock dan2 bocor after BPR masuk aiya

bike use mostly for work only, around 20km pergi balik

This post has been edited by hollowsxd: May 13 2021, 06:06 PM

Hi, can i check which RCB monoshock cepat lembut? Cos got new models of RCB suspension, looking at the DB2 line... aji racing also have these type and it's so much cheaper though.

Also, how about fork upgrades? Riding a X1R. The stock fork and suspension makes me feel like i'm riding a boat when doing minor cornering.... although bike is a bit old.

First time kup owner here, coming from a dirt bike... so much difference in handling.

RCB - decent internals, some can service.
Fork - upgrade with cartridge internals from YSS.

Thanks man! I'm gg for the RCB DB2 Line.

Any advice regarding the aji racing fork kits? It's a lot more affordable than the YSS one, unless it is a massive difference...

Also, just changed tyres to bridgestone battlax bt39, handles so well

It's not about the kit, it's who can make the adjustments for you. I haven't tried those but I'm sure there are recipe out there. I'd start with a 15wt fork oil.
Battlax is superb, make sure you got the correct speed rating. There are SS and non-SS ones.

Thanks for the advice.

Got front 80/90 SS and rear 90/80 non SS.

Stocks are quite bad in SG for BT39...

Went to my workshop recently to tune/clean up the carb, realised the previous owner of the bike used an open pod air filter... the bike kept bogging previously.

Now after added the stock airbox + filter, it's better but there is still a very big flat spot after the first 1000rpm from moving off... very difficult to ride in city traffic. The power still only comes in very late @ high rpm.

15-41 gear ratio already but the pickup is still so bad.

Going to change to uma plug coil + uma iridium plug, see if that helps.

Any idea what else I should look at? Bike is pretty old, 2009 x1r, which should be same as lc v1.

Suspect the block + piston upsize before too.

Is it still using the stock carb? Did you take note the jet sizes? Pilot jet, main jet. Is the TPS still in use?

Original carb has 'accelerator pump' that launch the bike when pulling the throttle off idle.
Notice the fine stream of fuel jetted into the carb when throttle is pulled.

Non stock carb, using this SP carb that's most likely a copy. It's 28mm one that my mechanic recently bored it slightly.

No idea on jet sizes or TPS... i hope to eventually open up the carburetor myself to service but he has cleaned it thoroughly already.

I also just switched out the stock CDI to the UMA one that is programmable. Left it on stock 12000 rpm redline, map 3 and advanced timing by 1. It seems to run quite a lot better but there's still some slight sputtering at gear 1.

About to go try and switch out the ignition coil + spark plug to the uma ones as well.

Regarding the cams, it's probably changed cos when I took over from the previous owner he gave me a spare cam, no idea if it's stock or anything.

The intake sound on the bike is so bloody loud whenever i open > 1/2 throttle it gets irritating hahahaha, way louder than my GPR exhaust.

Workshop prices are insane to check the head.... I have to pay upwards of 1000rm to get the top part overhauled ie. cleaning the block/piston/head, no idea if valve clearances are checked as well.

Can't wait for the border to open again so I can visit the workshops in JB.....

Too advance can cause sputtering, until a point that is hardly rideable.
Sounds like you're interested in high RPM rides, so definitely some mid range power will be lacking, esp if high performance cam.

High RPM needs to retard. Don't ask me why.

I'm the total opposite man, i like quick pickup!

Not into high speeds, coming from a scrambler...

I see, alright, do let us know how your mods go.

Hi, between y16 and y15 for daily short distance use. Which one is better ?

Actually what's your thoughts? Have you viewed and tested both?
Pick the one that feels right for you.

What is the distance? Is it safe where you park? Do you plan to mod it? Any plans to get big bike later?

Hi, im using LC135 (standard) and now i need to travel about 40km+ to work, do you guys have any suggestion what to do if i want to comfortably cruise at 100-110 km/h?

for now is ok but can hear the rmp high to cruise that speed, i use regina chain 428 15t-39t. Should i change the sprocket to 38t on my next chain or any other suggestion?