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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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piju
post May 19 2014, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 01:24 PM)
pijuHere are the steps, in short:
- warm up
- set idle screw to high, RPM ~1.5k to 2k RPM.
- set pilot screw to reach max RPM, open few more minutes.
- set idle screw to normal, RPM ~1k, or engine is running smoothly.

Check:
- off-throttle performance: from idle, pulas the throttle fast and see if engine can follow or not
- steady acceleration at fixed throttle opening
- acceleration with continuous throttle opening

If there is any engine bog or flat response, continue to replicate the condition, and check the plug to tell if rich or lean. Perform tuning, and check again. Until puas.

In the end, your bike will have very low FC, good power across RPM and throttle opening. No semput-semput or misfire here and there, perfect.

Then, if you upgrade parts, may need to go through the whole process again. If lucky, some minor tuning is enough.
*
thanks bro. i followed your steps.

1. off throttle performance good.
2. steady acceleration good.
3. acceleration with continuous throttle opening also good.

heard no misfiring or semput.

i think i'm good to go now.

bytheway bro alexei, i asked 2 friends and they told me that stock setting for mikuni bs25 on yamaha lc v2 version is at 1 and half turns. on 1 and half turns, i wont get maximum RPM. is this true that most bike's carburetor factory setting are on lean mixture ? not tuned to it's maximum performance ?


This post has been edited by piju: May 19 2014, 01:39 PM
piju
post May 23 2014, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 19 2014, 02:39 PM)
pijuI know it's 1 5/8 turn for the VM carb, not sure for BS carb. I'll need to look at its service manual to tell if that is true or not, which I don't have. Do you have its service manual, since you own one? IMO, factory setting is usually richer, so that the bikes produced are more likely to run smoothly.

Keep this page for your reference: http://www.zrxoa.org/webpages/techinfo/carb/carbtuning.html
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bro alexei, i dont have the service manual. only owners manual. there are no topic on adjusting the fuel or air mixture for the carburetor. only idle screw (1300 - 1500 RPM) using a tachometer.

i searched on google, and didnt found any softcopy of new yamaha lc service manual.

perhaps, anybody here could help by telling the fuel screw stock setting for new yamaha lc ?
piju
post May 30 2014, 02:37 PM

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bro alexei,
i have found the manual for MIKUNI BS25 carburetor on NEW YAMAHA 135 LC.
now i am very sure that my previous setup is 100% same as written on the manual. like i said before, i get high RPM on 2 and half turns and i turn it more and my total turns out is 2 and 3/4 turns.

looking to the manual for new yamaha lc v2, it is the same value. i also looked at yamaha lc v1 which is mikuni vm22. it is 1 5/8 turns out for yamaha 135 v1 MIKUNI VM22 and 2 3/4 turns out for yamaha 135 v2 MIKUNI BS25.

user posted image

user posted image

I asked few people from another forum, they said for VM22 you can try to use 2 1/4 turns out or 2 1/2 turns out for optimal setting.

for BS25, you can also try 2 1/2 turns out but the best i have tried is 2 3/4 turns out.

This post has been edited by piju: May 30 2014, 04:29 PM
piju
post May 31 2014, 02:14 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ May 30 2014, 06:32 PM)
pijuGreat. Do you have link to the manual? I'll pin it in first page.
*
it is not exactly the manual for YAMAHA 135 LC, it is manual for SNIPER MX. In my opinion, both of them are using MIKUNI BS25 and i think the pilot screw turns out is applicable to NEW YAMAHA 135 LC or some people call is V2 135 LC.

http://www.2shared.com/document/v66UeVTW/S...l-StreetMo.html

btw bro alexei, as far as i think, some people will satisfied with 2 3/4 turns out and some people will satisfied with 2 1/2 turns. Depending on their living places, Atmospheric pressure, humidity, temperature.

so the best setting with stock air filter is between 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 turns.

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 1 2014, 01:52 AM
piju
post Jun 3 2014, 11:46 PM

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bro alexei

my experiment on MIKUNI BS25.
after day and day trying to get optimum setting for this carburetor, i have found that 3 turns of pilot screw is the best setting for acceleration also cold start.

i have tried 2 1/2, 2 3/4 and 2 5/8 turns out.

throttle response is better than stock setting written on service manual which is 2 and 3/4 turns out.

since the pilot screw for mikuni bs25 is controlling both air and fuel, not controlling the air or fuel only. i think 3 turns out is the optimum setting for it.

my opinion, if anybody wants to get better result on top speed, maybe they need to consider rejetting the carburetor since pilot screw only affecting idle and first step of acceleration. which is not in my mind at the moment. because i think that rejetting the carb only is not an economical wise choice. we need to consider changing the piston and block size, bigger valves, harden valve springs, high lift or high duration camshaft, bigger intake manifold, bigger exhaust, high output ignition coil, sprockets ratio and so on to make them balanced each others since they are related to each others.

to those who wants to make a light modifications for better performance than factory setting to their yamaha lc v2, my suggestion is :-

1. resetting your stock pilot screw setting on your carburetor
2. play around which your sprocket ratio ( this setting is vary from people to people since our body weight is different )
3. change to bigger size exhaust, but not too big. maximum size is +6mm than stock exhaust. 28mm is maximum.
4. change to lighter sprocket and drive chain.
5. change to smaller tyre size.

if you ride less than 100kmh daily, better use 10w 40 semi synthetic. more than 100kmh daily, better use 15w 50.

bro alexei, i once read about using fully synthetic for wet clutch systems is a bad thing to do. could you please clarify this to me ? because now i'm using petronas synthium moto 10w 50 fully sintetik. but sometimes i use belray 15w 50 semi sintetik with additional of STP oil treatment.

thanks



This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 12:03 AM
piju
post Jun 4 2014, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 4 2014, 10:28 AM)
piju
Thanks for your contribution to the thread, and detailed update.
I hope others here will benefit from your guide. Post is pinned.

I think BS25 pilot screw is fuel jet. So, the more you open or turn counter-clockwise, the more fuel will be mixed. In other words, reduce air-fuel ratio, making the pilot circuit richer. The amount of air is constant, based on throttle opening. Don't forget, not to mess with air filter for BS25.

Exhaust tuning is a different animal. The size is just a part of it. The tuning involves measuring the port timing, and deciding the 'tune' for each sections of the pipe. A bad exhaust can over draw fresh air through the intake port to the exhaust, or block exhaust gas from exiting the exhaust port...

Smaller tyre is not a measure of performance, think safety first.
Also, suspension and brakes system.

For EO, I will always point you to first page, for the recommended oil link.
In my personal experience, is not to use a viscosity higher than factory recommendation. Imagine this:
- Higher viscosity oil needs high pressure to flow at the same rate than a lower viscosity oil. Since you're not increasing oil pressure, you may cause oil starve in some areas...
- High viscosity oil is harder to go through small clearance gap.
- High viscosity oil does not necessary have higher film strength for surface protection. Oil quality does.

For synthetic vs semi vs mineral in a wet clutch system, you need to point out the source, as I haven't heard of this.
What I know is there should not be friction modifiers, or things like moly additive, which could cause clutch slip.

As for oil treatment, consider this, 4 stroke bike EO works from the engine head to the gearbox. The mechanical stress to the oil is harsher than car. Should you add a car EO additive to your bike?

As for HDEO, it is designed for diesel engines. Diesel engine is high stress low (<6k) RPM engine. As for bike, they run at relatively higher RPM than diesel engines, up to 8k. Based on their design use case, should you use HDEO in a bike?
*
bro alexei,
for my personal opinion, moped is not designed to be ride for a long and hard journey. moped is designed to be use for short distance. if we use our moped for a long journey daily, i think we need to use higher viscosity oil or higher grade rather than using what is written on service manual. as long as the oil is for bike, not for car or truck.

i once go to hong leong yamaha at sungai buloh near my work place. i asked the mechanic, what is the best oil for yamaha 135 lc ? he said depends on your purposes. what he mean is, if we ride long and far journey daily, better use fully syntethic and higher viscosity.

i am absolutely not going to use any of car oil treatment on my motocycle. i only use STP which is for motocycle. dont get confuse with my earlier post. oil treatment for motocycle has only low value of zinc dialyldithiophosphate to prevent wear on your engine. car oil treatment has higher value which is not good for motocycle since higher value of it can increase wear. like i already said, the keyword is balance. a more of something can be good but the too much of something doesnt mean good.

about the tyre, i dont recommend any of SOTONG tyre. front 80/90, rear 90/80 is already good for normal usage. what i think the best is, front 80/90 and rear 90/90. but it is too hard to find 90/90 tyre.

HDEO is not suitable for motocycle since it has more zinc dialyldithiophosphate. suitable for heavy duty engine like truck or lorry which running on diesel engine and has no catalytic converter.

btw, bro alexei.

since yamaha 135 lc has its own oil filtering medium, i installed uma racing bypass valve replacing my oil tank cap to relieve the pressure inside my engine.

as stated on uma racing website,

"This product has many benefits. Firstly, the UMAbreather valve is used to replace the original motor oil tank cap to relieve pressure in the engine. As known, engine oil goes through the filtering medium, so it is important to ensure that the pressure loss in the filter does not exceed. This is why the bypass valve in place. If the pressure is incorrect, then the valve will open automatically, allowing oil to bypass the filtering system and balancing the oil pressures.

By controlling the engine pressures, the bypass valve can help the engine to run longer and work efficiently. In the long run, it significantly prolongs the engine life. On the other hand, it can speed up the oil heating especially when the engine is cold, and it will cool faster when the engine is off. Therefore, this product will give you steady and better warm-up RPM. Additionally, with good ventilation, the oil will stay cleaner for longer period.

Besides, the breather valve is also efficient in removing small particles and soot through breather hose. It ensures the engine oil will continue to flow even when the filter has clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged. Therefore, the Uma Racing high performance bypass valve not only will greatly reduce the engine pressure, but it allows you to ride with worry-free."

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:34 PM
piju
post Jun 4 2014, 01:51 PM

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i want to share about my yamaha 135 lc headlamp.
stock bulb is stanley 32 watts. after 1 year usage, the bulb is getting darker. i opened the bulb and see that the glass part of the bulb is full of burn deposit.

i went to a shop in pandan indah, and bought new bulb. OSRAM 35 watts. now my headlamp light is brighter than before. better than stanley. maybe you guy can try OSRAM 35 watts. it has different colours too.

i want to change my fog lamp bulbs, anybody tried faito H.I.D. Mini Bulb?

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:55 PM
piju
post Jun 5 2014, 12:01 PM

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if there anyone here who has a 2011 yamaha lc. you can try 3 turns out of pilot screw for your MIKUNI BS25 carburetor and you will feel the different between stock setting.

try it and post your result here.
piju
post Jun 5 2014, 07:28 PM

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QUOTE(thianz @ Jun 5 2014, 04:38 PM)
if 3 turn check ur plug color .....  stock setting below 2 turn ...
*
below 2 ? the service manual said 2 and 3/4.
piju
post Jun 6 2014, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 5 2014, 10:26 PM)
pijuAbout oil viscosity, here's what I found, and you'll have to read through it a little bit, hope it will answer some of your questions or provide new perspective:
Bob is the oil guy
Motorcycle Oil Page

The important thing is the first table and the last column, "high shear viscosity".
- The value of 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 and and xxW-50 are the same at 3.7cP.
- To me, this means that I should be using this grade of xxW-40 EO, for the same level of engine protection of a xxW-50 EO.
- This type of xxW-40 EO, will have the benefit of lower viscosity, hence, better at flowing, removing heat from engine parts, and lower self heat generation, compared to xxW-50 EO.
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bro alexei,

seems like 10w 40 protecting the engine same as 15w 50 but 10w 40 has lower value of Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max.

10w has more advantage on Low-Temp (°C) Cranking Viscosity, cP Max at 3500 @ -20 degrees which is i dont think that we have that temperature here in Malaysia.

but 15w 50 has advantage on Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max ( below our engine's operating temperature ).

both 10w 40 and 15w 50 has the same value for High Shear Viscosity (cP) at 150°C Min which i also dont think that our engine reaches that temperature too.

i prefer more protection below 100 degrees.

referring to the service manual, both 20w 50 and 20w 40 can be use on yamaha 135 lc 2011. the lower "W" value is optional.

user posted image




piju
post Jun 8 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 6 2014, 04:56 PM)
pijuyou're reading the table wrongly.
10W-40 has lower shear force, than 15W-40.
15W-40 has similar shear force requirements to a 15W-50.
Viscosity numbers, the lower the lighter, faster heat transfer, lesser internal  friction and self heat generation.
*
both 50 and 40 can be use with yamaha lc. i wonder why the manual mention 50 first and then 40 next.


piju
post Jul 6 2018, 11:03 PM

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Guys, i am planning to bring BRT CDI and ECU direct from Indonesia.
If anyone interested to order, please talk to me via pm or BBM and my pin is 9M2PJU
piju
post Sep 19 2018, 03:29 PM

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Hello guys,

i am planning to upgrade my old yamaha lc 4speed v2 to 62mm block.

i will use

62mm block and piston set from BRT.
mastercam R9 BRT
cdi i-max 24 step 2 memory BRT
cms T valve spring
BRT spring clutch
uma racing high flow oil pump
faito clutch bush
ashuka and apple gaskets




I need your opinions,

1. what is the best carburetor for my setup?
some people said PE28, some said TZM PE30. in my head there is only one now which is UMA RACING PWK28. i'am attracted to it's power jet system

2. do i need to port and polish the exhaust and intake holes on my cylinder head ?

3. do i need to use bigger valve size ? std is 19/17

4. can i use WAVE125 uma racing clutch plate on my lc clutch ? 4 plates, same size.

5. do i need to "skim tingkat" my new ceramic block ?

6. is it copper head gasket better than normal gasket ?


more questions later.

thanks.

This post has been edited by piju: Sep 20 2018, 10:41 AM
piju
post Sep 20 2018, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(StarprickStarfish @ Sep 20 2018, 10:41 AM)
If got pro foreman for UMA carb setting then go for it. If not better jangan masuk UMA carb. Many people experience horrid compatibility with this carb brand, susah nak setting.
Tapi kalau dapat setting ngam.. Fuh.. U will layan LYN forum dari bulan maah motor sudah laju shoot ke bulan
*
oh, i thought uma racing pwk28 carburetor is well known used brand. need to find a pro foreman ya?

piju
post Dec 28 2018, 08:24 PM

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Hello guys, sorry offtopic

I have used and unused items for sale
If one of you interest on the item
Do PM me ok?

here is the list

Unused

1. uma racing wave125/lc135 clutch plates
2. BRT racing clutch springs (4 springs)
3. BRT mastercam T1 tune-up camshaft
4. BRT Carbon heavy duty valves size 22/19

Used

1. MB performance 5 edition CDI (used only 1 week, still looking new and got no problem)

*i will post photo later


 

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