Anyone here cleaned their throttle body before?
v9.0 The OFFICIAL 3G/5G Honda City 2011 thread, The new City, where to next?
v9.0 The OFFICIAL 3G/5G Honda City 2011 thread, The new City, where to next?
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Feb 27 2014, 01:43 PM
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#1
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Anyone here cleaned their throttle body before?
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Mar 2 2014, 12:23 PM
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#2
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QUOTE(Lone Wolf X @ Mar 1 2014, 08:09 PM) Why cars nowadays love to equip their cars with "Circus" looking wheels? |
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Mar 2 2014, 03:50 PM
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#3
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I thought HONDA usually have ample stock for their spare parts?
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May 13 2014, 03:40 PM
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#4
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May 18 2014, 09:23 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(whackowilson @ May 18 2014, 05:00 PM) Had a problem with my HC2013 today, arrived at the main gate of my home, my VSA light is on and I couldn't engage into had my gearbox locked from 'P' can't even shift down. Have you changed your car horn before? If you had, chances are your car's horn relay fuse is blown. Just replace it.Had to unlock it manually from the shift-lock compartment. Could not even Turn on nor off for the VSA with the button at the right side as well. Need to send my car in for inspection on the VSA light issue. Apparently, someone said it's the issue with the gearbox or the brakes? Any owners encountered this before? |
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May 19 2014, 09:09 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(whackowilson @ May 19 2014, 07:20 PM) Thrust - Had replaced my fused fuse plug to a higher amp from the standard 10 to 15, as the my new twin horn runs parallel to the VSA system. Actually i would recommend you to stick with 10AMP fuse as manufacturer set that rating due to certain reason. 15AMP fuse allow higher current to flow through which might fry some electronic gizmo.. My VSA is functioning now, the car horn is working and my gearbox is no longer locked. Thank you for the tip! Save my time and money not sending my car in to Honda 3S to inspect & rectify the issue. What twin horn are you using btw? I am using PIAA slender horn without relay. |
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May 20 2014, 02:20 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(whackowilson @ May 19 2014, 11:11 PM) Damn! this sounds scary enough, now I am thinking twice about switching out the 15AMP back to the standard 10AMP, but I am worried that it will fuse it again and having the same problem with the VSA and the gearbox locked. Actually it's best if you can just change to honda accord horn.. The power requirement might be the same as City.. I forgot what's City original horn wattage/AMP.. If u want peace of mind, stick to a horn that is close to the original wattage.I am using this Sports Horn from PIAA. It is very similar to this model. https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDZx6XZ7KhU/T4W9...orn+500.600.jpg I am unsure whether it has the relay or not? What's your ultimate advice, Thrust? Guess I blew it when I pressed the car horn too long day before yesterday...the technician said that the VSA is on the same wiring as the car horn??!? Else, u better install a relay. Btw, what's the wattage of ur PIAA sports horn? This post has been edited by Thrust: May 20 2014, 02:23 AM |
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May 20 2014, 02:51 PM
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#8
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May 31 2014, 04:56 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(whackowilson @ May 31 2014, 03:57 PM) Just a random question, wanting to get some feedback from HC owners. Of course you will feel better acceleration response using the green bottled oil because the weight oil is lighter rated at 20 whereas the fully synthetic red bottled oil is rated at 40.Anyone owners using Honda's Fully Synthetic Engine Lubricant for their car? I just serviced my car today, previously was on SL 5W40 (red); so today I decided to try out 0W-20 (green). I felt the acceleration response is much better on the (green) lubricant than the (red). What y'all think? Thanks! Red bottled oil will give you better protection as it is genuinely a fully synthetic oil (group 4 polyalphaolifin). The green bottled oil, although honda claims it is fully synthetic.. In actual fact it is not. That oil is actually a highly refined oil based from group 3 hydrocracked oil. That is why you can see there's a huge difference in terms of pricing between the red bottle and the green bottle fully synthetic oil. Countries like Japan, Germany and a few others wouldn't allow an oil to be named fully synthetic if their based is from hydrocracked oil. However, the rest of the world don't usually follow this and 99% of the time will mislead consumer into believing that they are using fully synthetic oil. The green honda oil is still a good oil as they are categorized as the best group 3 based oil.. Highly refined and pure.. However, if it is compared to the red bottled PAO oil, the differences is day and night in terms of quality of the oil as well as oil drain interval. If you hardly rev your engine till the 5k-6k rpm band, it is safe to go with the green oil. Else the red oil will be better. Hope my 2cents reply helps. This post has been edited by Thrust: Jun 1 2014, 06:11 PM |
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Jun 4 2014, 07:52 AM
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#10
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Anyone experience any annoying sound from the back of the car which is supposing the rear reclining seat board? It emanates a very irritating sound when you're going through uneven roads (tiktiktik sound).
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Aug 5 2014, 07:01 AM
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#11
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QUOTE(winterwish @ Aug 4 2014, 09:32 PM) Replaced the battery on mine and sometimes still got this same issue. Car seems reluctant to start after a short drive to the petrol pump for example. Mine receive a letter from Honda asking me to replace the starter motor.. They replaced it with a denso unit, added some grounding cable and replaced the car battery. Until now i nvr once experience difficulty to start the car.Rarely happens so pretty hard to ask SC to check. Haih. |
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Aug 9 2014, 12:01 PM
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#12
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Why do you guys take the hassle to change to after market bulbs when the original can last much longer & don't risk the chances of getting a summon
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Aug 9 2014, 01:08 PM
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#13
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Aug 10 2014, 08:30 AM
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#14
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QUOTE(earl-ku @ Aug 10 2014, 04:55 AM) bro if you have to ask this, then you dont need any mod on ur lights at all LOL ... Yalor.. That's why i nvr considered getting aftermarket bulbs. Too much hassle and expensive to replace the bulbs. On top of that.. Maybe have to pay kopi fee once in awhile.+9999 +99999999999999999 exactly ... aihhh next car buy with projector and 5000k and above headlamps ... means have to buy conti edy lo rite hahahaha |
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Aug 14 2014, 09:54 AM
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#15
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Anyone here facing squeeky door panel noise? Its like the plastic door material is soft and squeeky sounds comes out when you press on the plastic door panel.
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Aug 14 2014, 03:19 PM
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#16
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Aug 19 2014, 02:49 PM
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#17
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Could be your radiator cap seal worn out already. Try replacing your radiator cap first & see how it goes.
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Aug 27 2014, 03:09 PM
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#18
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Anyone here replaced their shock absorbers already? I was wondering whether is Koni available for Honda City? If yes.. Where can I get them installed?
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Aug 30 2014, 07:30 AM
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#19
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QUOTE(mytaffeta @ Aug 30 2014, 05:54 AM) how old is your car? am thinking to replace all absorber but not sure if its really necessary.. mine feel a bit soft but still bearable.. mine is 2010 model.. Same as urs.. 2010 model.. It is not necessary but you definitely will feel the ride is harsher now. Once you replaced it, original ride and handling will be restored. |
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Aug 31 2014, 08:10 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(winterwish @ Aug 31 2014, 08:06 PM) The 2012 model is 5 years @ unlimited mileage. They really know how to lock their customer in. My warranty is over as i am driving a 2010 model.. I still service my car at Honda. I will change oil at every 8-10k kilometer but i am using the 5W40 fully synthetic oil. Current mileage only 51k Since yours is out of warranty period, how often did you service (5k, 7k, 10k? or 15k |
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