Just curious if any of your TMO been acting up recently? As in are there any problems encountered?

Magnetic clutch replacement might cost you around RM300-RM400.

Just did my brake job yesterday which include:

i) Replace front and rear pads with Akebono brake pads (lubricate the brake slots with a bit of rubber grease to eliminate possible squeaks);
ii) Replace the front brake shims;
iii) Relube the front and rear caliper pins with rubber grease; &
iv) Replace the brake fluid with DOT 4 (Bendix fluid).

Now my brakes are whisper quiet.

I stop going back to SC knowing they charge very expensive on brake job and they don't do it well. My mileage is about 113,000KM

I bought the parts myself and brought it to a mechanic to do the replacement. Parts all in cost around RM340. Labour is RM120. Total around RM460.

Still much cheaper than SC considering I replaced the both front and rear pads, serviced / lubricate the caliper pins and replaced brake fluid. The job took around 2 hours

After driving the car for 1 day, I can say Akebono pads is a good replacement as it is very quiet. Stopping power, I would say the same as original Honda pads.

My mechanic says Akebono pads are good and produce low brake dust. Bendix is good but it creates a lot of brake dust.

Yes. I bought the grease on Shopee via My Webpage

Read online saying cannot simply use petroleum base grease as it will corrode the rubber that protects the caliper pin from dust and water. Thus, I use the brand above.

Regarding about the shim, I think no need to replace also can. You can get the mechanic to remove the old shim and clean it. The shims are not cheap and it cost me around RM100 to replace both the front wheels only. If you really want to get the shims, usually all spare parts shop will sell them but need to order. I got mine from Asli Auto at Old Klang Road near Pearl Point.

When reinstalling the brake pads, you can use the grease and apply a bit on the edge of the pads where it sit and slide on the shim. Apply a bit also behind the pads where it touches the caliper to ensure smooth and quiet braking.

Overall, the mechanic spent around 2 hours doing the above brake job. He is a 1 man show uncle running his own workshop. I manage to chat and observe while he was performing the job and I would say the workmanship met my expectation.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 26 2019, 05:08 PM

I didn't use original Honda parts. Just other OEM part which is Akebono brake pads.

I bought the brake pads from Asli Auto near Pearl Point at Old Klang Road. They are the importer for Akebono brake pads. Not many workshops and spare parts shop carry this brand. Many sells Nissin, Bendix, Mintye, Brembo (avoid kaokao) and etc.

You can try asking other spare parts dealer. Sometimes they do carry Akebono pads.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 27 2019, 06:38 AM

The workshop runs at the back of Sunshine Motor. The front does manual wheel alignment operated by another owner. The back is the mechanic. His son also owns a TMO so he is quite well verse with our car. Address as below:

30, Jalan PJS 1/28, Taman Petaling Utama, 46000 Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Actually, if you drive normally and not spirited driving, CC6 is a good option. Soft, quiet and comfy. However, don't drive fast when its raining on the CC6.

I am using CC6 also but I would suggest you to try Goodyear Assurance Triple Max 2. Many said this is a good all round tyre.

I had use the last generation of XM2 tyre. Though handling is good, these tyres are hard as a rock and noisy. I will steer clear from XM2 and even XM2+ (given the fact that these are just enhancement tyre over the previous generation).

Not to mention Michelin tyres are pricier due to their extensive marketing cost incurred. Thus, I would still recommend you to try Goodyear ATM2.

I changed few years back. My radiator cap spoiled because I always press and open it quite often until the rubber around the cap was worn. Coolant vapor starts sipping out and can't hold pressure.

Changed to a Denso Toyota 1.1 bar cap (yellow) now. Works the same as Honda radiator cap.

Alignment issue. Go do alignment.

Recently encountered my rear driver side wheel had a brake lock-up. The wheel was unable to spin and was locked tight due to caliper pin jammed.

I've just serviced and re-grease the caliper pin last month. Thus, I feel weird this happened.

Have any of you guys encountered caliper locked up before and the reason for the lock up?

That's really bad. For normal mixture of city + highway drive, TMO can easily achieve around 320 - 350 km range with 30 liters of fuel.

If you're not serviced and replace these parts, below are my suggestion:

1) Air filter;
2) Spark plugs (Get the NGK Iridium model: IZFR6K13 which are means for Honda City TMO);
3) Fuel strainer @ fuel strainer;
4) Use lighter weight oil such as 0W20 or 0W30, 5W30.
5) Clean the MAF and MAP sensors;
6) Clean the throttle body;

Try these methods first and report back here. Replacing the O2 sensors will help too although it is quite pricey.

I suggest you to try 1, 3 5 & 6.

By the way. does your car idle smoothly? Sometimes a faulty coil pack will affect fuel consumption too.

Do update us after you've serviced your car whether there's improvement in fuel consumption.

To me, if a car part is going faulty, it is best to replace them before it affect other components. In your case, it will eventually affect your alternator and water pump bearing if the tensioner is not inducing the right amount of tension.

I would like to provide an update on the above. Previously I've sent my car to 2 workshops to repair the stuck caliper. The following is the chronology.

i) Went to workshop No.1 (DT_X). Inform them of the problem and without even performing troubleshooting and proper inspection, they disassemble the caliper and just re-lube the pins. I was charged RM60 for a service which did not resolve my problem.

ii) Next day, went to workshop No.2 (W_i Car Care Network) near PJ Oldtown. This time, I purposely informed them to remove and rebuilt the caliper as I know it is sticking. Eventually, they said they had serviced the caliper and everything was fine but I know it wasn't as 1 wheel is still tighter than the other side (Have more resistance due to brake sticking). Told them this and they said it is normal. Drove for 15km and brake started overheating again. Brought the car back and was told it was due to the warped rotor and brake pads. Unable to do much unless I replace these parts. I was charged RM150 for yet another service which did not fix my car problem.

iii) Finally, went to another workshop at Sri Damansara with my car limping with overheating rear brake due to stuck caliper. Initially, they release the pressure and the wheel can spin again. But I informed them this will not solve the problem as the right rear wheel is still tighter and have more resistance than the other side which they agreed. So they disassemble the caliper, inspected it and found the piston to be slightly pitted which look something like below:



They said the piston condition wasn't that bad but enough to get it stuck. Thus, they did an overhaul on the rear caliper and it seems to be working pretty well now. No more overheating brakes. Best of all, the charges was very reasonable. Much cheaper than workshop No. 1 and No.2.

If you guys face another headache problems on your GM2 / TMO, highly recommend to visit this workshop. They specializes in servicing / repairing Hondas. PM me for information if you need their assistance.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Feb 1 2020, 03:19 PM

How much you bought the 3 piece of mounting?

It could be your transmission inner bearing.

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