I had been missing from this forum, obviously busy with my new DIY.

To add a shower screen it also affects the floor tiles, the basin location and re-install mirror.

Here this is how the original bathroom look like:


The other side view: the toilet


Another side view: the rain shower


This is how the floor tiles look like:


From far


This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 19 2014, 02:47 AM

The bathroom is 6x7 feet. 6 feet from door to mirror and 7 feet from toilet side to windows.

Before DIY there was a shower curtain as you can see from the pix below, the shower curtain rod from the door at the rain shower to which it cuts across the basin sink.


The reason to have a glass shower screen was when bathing the whole room floor get wet. And when it was wet using the toilet or sink have to wear shoes or slippers.

There was no other logical choice. The new glass shower screen have to be at the shower curtain rod position. Meaning to replace the rod curtain with the glass shower screen. To have a glass shower screen was to relocate or move the basin and the mirror to the left.

Problem was the basin was too wide (36 inches) to be relocated to the left as the toilet would not be moved. The only choice was to replace with a smaller size one.

Next, for the floor it was either making a curb for the glass to sit on it, with a drain hole across it, as there was only one drain hole on the shower side or re-tile making the "dry" area an inch higher than the shower "wet" side.

Instead of making a curb (which was the easy choice) I decided to tile the dry side one about an inch higher and left the wet side as it was because the tiles had stained and hard to clean with stained lime especially on the white color tiles.

As you may know, tile on tile may not stick so I applied two coats of Sika Top so that the new tile glue/cement could adhere well to the old tiles. And the line was drawn and sika top applied see pix below. From the first coat (the near side) can still see the image of the covered tiles and the 2nd coat (the far side) completely cover the tiles from view:


to be continued....

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 19 2014, 03:10 AM

Tiling.

The new tiles dry area has to be level. This is to accommodate the installation of the shower screen that has to be level flat. Also if I were to choose swing door, a slope floor will not allow swing door to open wide as the bottom will hit the higher slope side of the floor.

Normally for tiling it should start from the middle and cut pieces at the wall so that the cut pieces are not too thin but at least half. But the existing floor sloping from the door side to the other end drain hole. I have to start from the door/high side. The first piece need to fit the door edges. A template was used using paper.

Cutting tile curves to meet the oval shape of the toilet bottom.

Again paper is used to make templates. Here the one of the pieces, at the wall edge.


To cut the tile into half, I do not have tile cutter, I used glass cutter. Score a line and break it like this, a clean nice cut:


Then putting back the template for cutting the curve using angle grinder.



Make a score first on the tile surface


Then cut deeper and then turn over and cut from the back of the tile by using the same template and cut through it.

The finishing tiling


Next installing shower screen glass piece by piece...

Installing shower screen??? Not yet. Got to remove the basin sink and remove the bolts from the wall.


The basin was removed and the expansion bolts 4 pieces could not be pull out. I cut the bolts and push them into the wall and plastered.

Sliding or swing door?

I choose swing door because opening and closing is easier.

Since it is 6 feet long (and 34 inches wide) I chose to have 3 pieces screen with the door at the middle, 24 inches fixed panel, 26 inches door and around 20 inches remaining fixed panel like this.

Side view


Top view


This means the hinges are the glass to glass type. As per diagram above the door opening has to be on the shower side where the hinges are away from the shower head. this is so to keep water seeping to the other side.

I order 2 pieces of 10mm tempered glass first and not 3 pieces at one go. This will allow me to measure accurately the final piece after installing the first 2 pieces.

Fixed panel is RM18 per sq foot, door or anything that need cutting is RM20/sq ft. Since the first piece fixed panel also need to be cut to hang the hinges it is RM20 per sq ft.

Price:

1. 24" (2 feet) x 72" (6 feet) x RM20 = RM240
2. 26" x 6' x RM20 ---> 30" (2 1/2') x 6' x RM20 = RM300. They charge nearer to the next 6 inches or half foot.
3. Door sweep 8 feet = RM25
4. Glass to glass shower hinges with auto shut at 30 degree 2 way opening = RM300. If no auto swing is RM200.
5. Stainless steel L handle = RM120
6. 20 x 20 setting block =RM5.

Total now RM990. Not cheap la. Still got one more panel to order and other things.

Door sweep for the bottom of the door keeping water away


The L handle



This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 20 2014, 02:04 AM

The main reasons I wanted to DIY :

1. I want it frameless. No one who are in this industry agreed and all want me to have U channel. So no choice have to DIY
2. I want a fine job, good workmanship especially on applying silicone on glass. Also things like little or no gaps, equal or near perfect height of all the 3 pieces of glass.

The first piece installed

Amazing sharing!

One question: When you level the dry area floor, do you have a floor trap in the area as well? How does the water flow when you wash that area?

Thanks for appreciating my sharing.

Floor trap? Hmmm... Great question.

There is no floor trap. In modern living other than the shower area everything else is "dry". In fact in the dry area there will be a piece of nice thick carpet on the floor at the sink standing area.

There will be no water or water flow, no need. Imagine our living room, bedroom, etc there is no floor trap. The toilet dry area is just one of these rooms same and the way to clean it is same, not like old fashion toilet. Time has change. In olden days, you could not imagine how could a toilet be built inside a bedroom! what's more many houses their toilets were built outside the houses!!! Today this is made possible by the seat toilet (not the squad type) clean and hygienic and also our sewerage system.

Likewise, the wet market, dirty, wet, wet, wet. Now super market has "wet market" selling fish, meat, vege without the dirty wet floor and so no floor trap. Also a modern houses/ especially apartments need no wet and dry kitchens. One kitchen will do with efficient hood and hob system, electric oven, fridge and cabinet. The hob with gas burner or electric burner, not fire wood or charcoal. With hood, not chimney. And fridge keeps the food odor in or rather preserve the foods and no odor. The cabinets are for keeping plates, pots and pans, etc, not food.

So, I want to go a bit modern and build the shower screen lor.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 20 2014, 04:11 PM

You are good with your hands. I salute you!

Thanks for the reply. The reason I'm asking is because I'm doing something similar to you. No floor trap at the dry area; the only floor trap is at the shower area.

However, I always thought there will be a slope towards the wet area, so that water can flow in that direction. Now that you mention the floor needs to be level, I was thinking if I got this all wrong. Maybe I should check/double confirm with my contractor again.

Perhaps another option is to swing inside the shower area (instead of swinging out)?

stevie8 looking good on the bathroom progress but did you soaked the ceramic/ homogenous tiles first? at least soaking it about 15-60 minutes before setting/ laying it on the floor.

if not better do ...

cheers
izwan

can i ask why none of those in the industry agrees to a frameless screen? what's the reason they give u?

You can do same if you want to. First you got to like doing it yourself. 2nd you got to scarify your free time. No tv, litter internet ( i have not been on facebook since), then some research.

Swing out is important in emergency. Imagine if someone fainted inside and his/body is blocking the door opening???!!! You cannot open the door to safe him/her. You can't climb over the glass and even if you can climb over and if the shower room area is too small to move him/her aside and two of you inside a cram area to open the door. The only way is to break the glass And it is 10mm tempered glass, moreover 4 to 5 times harder than normal glass See mine open both side

Open to the inside


Open outside

Aiyah, the laying of tiles is done. Why need to soak? The original tiles cant seep or suck up water except the grout lines, maybe only the sika top. Anyway I tried to remove one of the semi harden tiles, I could dug up the tile but the cement glue stuck hard to the floor and sika top and I had to hack it.

They do not believe the strength of silicone glue. By just using silicone glue without U channel they think the glass will come off. In their minds they only see that only if screws and/or bolts locked into concrete will it hold. With U channel they will drill holes into the floor and screw the U channel into the floor and wall and then the channel is filled with silicone and glass is place into the channel.

Frameless is elegant and classy just like a one big piece of frameless mirror, compare to a framed mirror with stainless steel frames on two sides and two other side no frame, not nice.

As a diyer before doing the job for the first time we usually do testing and experiment and sometime even prototype. I tested the silicone glue on the left over tiles and acrylic which I would let the shower screen glass sitting on top of it. Here is the result of the test in the pix. I could not pry open the silicone that glued between the acrylic rod and the tile. To force it I would break the acrylic rod. The only way was bending the acrylic rod and using a blade cutting the silicone glue. Unlike acrylic rod, as for the tiles that cannot bend I could not even insert the blade in between them. See pic, hanging them on the tree.


Also, I tested the acid based silicone. It just couldnot stick on to the acrylic. But that is a different story for the neutral based silicone, it stuck as per the experiment.

Acid based that cant glue to acrylic plastic


100% RTV Neutral Silicone Glue that works well with acrylic


Not only that. I also compared and tested the imported GE silicone sealer as in the picture above with this locally made X'traseal. The locally made proved to be better The GE USA made costs RM24 for a small tube. The xtra seal only RM7 a tube.

Here another pic of the silicone test

Again angle grinder was use to cut the bolts that hang the old basin. Picture below show the right side bolts had been cut and push inside. Using tape and newspaper to cover the tiles in case accidentally cut the hit the tiles with the angle grinder.

When the 2 pieces of glass was delivered, the first piece which is the side panel was chipped due to carelessness of worker during transportation. The workers agreed it was badly chipped and said to bring back to factory to polished the chipped part. I was wondering how could they polish a tempered glass. True, the factory people called up said it could not be polished but to make new one for me.

The moral of the story is inspect before you accept delivery. Even for hard tempered glass it chips or scratches.

The fixed panel temper glass was supposed to sit on the setting block which made from rubber or cured silicone and is translucent brownish. I have to cut 2 pieces at the height of 10mm and width not more than 10mm so that it is not wider than the 10mm tempered glass panel and to be seal in silicone glue. The height need to be exact 10mm to accommodate the door bottom as the door sweep is 10mm.

Instead of the setting block which I paid RM5, I decided not to use it, and used acrylic sheet. So I went and bought one piece 10mm 6"x24" and cut two pieces of 10mm width. The reasons for using acrylic instead of the rubber setting block

1. Acrylic is transparent, clear and see thru better than glass. Whereas if i use setting block there would be 10mm of silicon glue at the bottom with two setting blocks. Silicone is not transparent when it is thick like 10mm and it becomes translucent and blur.

2. When it is soft, the setting block if I were to cut 10mm height, with the heavy tempered glass sitting on it it should sink and could be 9mm or 9 1/2mm, too much of trials and errors. Also, the first piece will hang the door and that will sink further and become uneven. This is how heavy the door 26" x 72", 64lbs or 28kg. Imagine you carry a 10kg rice bag. This is 3 times! How woiuld two rubber blocks hold 2 pieces of 2' x 6' temper glass ?


3. It is not a problem for the hard tempered glass to sit on acrylic which is plastic and this acrylic should not disintegrate as early as setting block.

4. Of course it is the look i like.

Will it last? The silicone I applied in the kitchen doesn't last, I have to reapply after few years. Was it due to a bad job? I used it to seal the kitchen sink & the cement top.

Had you thought of painting the tiles? I saw on the internet people just painted over rather than replacing or overlaying. Just curious, cause I am thinking of painting my tiles which are dirty.

Of course it will last many many years. Look at the data sheet here: http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/3559219836TDS%...(Low%20VOC).pdf

The data sheet states 1.2 MPa = 174psi of pressure tensile. Dont know how strong it is but the number look like very strong pressure it can takes so long as the material stick well.

100% silicone glue are used in sealing aquarium, strong and last many years. The kitchen seal you used are coloured ones and paintable, I guess, which likely to be acrylic glue, not silicone that wont last. Do not use acid base silicone for your kitchen. The acid will eat/corrode the concrete surface and make sealing loose. Use the neutral one as shown in my post.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 20 2014, 11:51 PM

How I silicone glued the glass panel standing vertically.

Things required: L brackets or anything square or rectangular 90 degree 8 pieces,double sided tape, 3 feet long ruler, spirit level, silicone glue of course, masking tape, a used credit card and a helper for positioning.

Bracket at the floor


Bracket on the wall


1. Once the acrylic stick is silicone sealed down to the floor and cured over night 4 L bracket were stuck next to the acrylic stick with double sided tape on 4 sides of the acrylic stick. This will provide guide to the glass to sit on the acrylic stick in position.

2. With the 3 feet long ruler using spirit level measure it vertically on the wall and stick another 2 L brackets on the wall about 20mm apart. This will allow the glass panel to be slot in and hold the glass vertically but loosely.

3. Then just lift the glass panel and helper guide you placing the glass panel on the acrylic stick.

4. With the spirit level leveling the glass panel vertically against the wall and stick another 2 L brackets to the wall. This time the 2 L brackets provide a true vertical for the glass panel to slot it correctly vertical. The earlier 2 L brackets can be taken out but no harm leaving it there. Same time make a mark on the floor the glass panel would sits. There should be at least 2mm gap between the wall and glass panel for silicone glue.

5. Take the glass panel away. Stick masking tape along the two sides of the acrylic stick of the floor (so that silicone glue will not stick on the acrylic stick but on the masking tape later) and stick the bottom edge two sides of the glass panel where the it will sit on the acrylic stick.

6. Apply silicone glue to the top of the acrylic stick where the glass panel will sit, then carry the glass panel and again the helper guide the glass panel to the correct position on the acrylic stick. The glass panel will stand vertically and hold by the 2 wall brackets and you can let go your hands. Make adjustment where necessary.

7. Use credit card wipe away the excess silicone glue. Do not use your finger, the glass still could cut you if you press too hard. Then pull away the 4 masking tape one by one.

8. You cannot silicone glue the glass panel to the wall yet because there are 2 brackets holding the glass panel you cannot removed as it will fall. Apply a litter silicone glue to hold the glass panel to the wall allow to cure over night then only you can remove the two wall bracket and apply silicone glue to it. So, do same 4 masking tape on the very top of the glass panel and wall about 4 to 5 inches inches from the top of the glass panel. The 2 masking tapes width on the wall should be less than 10mm about 8mm will do (so that it would be covered by new silicone glue tomorrow). Apply silicone glue to 3 inches between the top of the glass panel and wall not more than the masking tape, wipe away excess silicone glue and pull the masking tapes.

Let it dries over night before applying silicone glue bwteen the wall and glass panel. That is when the silicone is cured overnight you can remove the wall L brackets and apply silicone glue and do not forget to use masking tape.

From the above you can see it takes 3 days to do this one glass panel mainly waiting for silicone to cure. That could be one of the reason why contractors do not want to do frameless shower screen and never have experience in it as no sifu to learn from.

When U channels are used it takes just one day. Measure, drill holes, screw U channels, place setting blocks in U channel, apply silicone to U channel, slot in glass panel, wipe excess silicone glue and done, all go in a day.

No. I have same problem basically lime from water. You can try using rubbing compound buy from hardware shop. It is a hard work. Do not use acid. Acid cannot help instead corrode your grout and then you will have water leak problem at the drain holes which are concrete.

After the silicone cured as expected the panel vibrate goyang but I go ahead hanging the door added 28kg to the goyong vibrate door. Closing and opening the door cause the panel to move and vibrate.

To overcome this problem I silicone a piece of 6mm glass 15" x 9' as shown in the picture and next day when the silicone cured the panel and door are solid, no more vibration. the 6mm glass act as a stabilizer.


Again L brackets were used to hold the 6mm glass and silicone glue it.

The 6mm 15" x 9 1/2" glass panel is a shelf for towels or any other things.

Hanging the door is easy. Remember I bought a piece of 10mm 6" x 24" acrylic sheet and cut out 2 pieces at 10mm. There is a purpose I bought more than required. The balance is to put on the floor at the door to support the door hanging. With that it was easy to hang the door hinges to the door. First install the hinges to the fixed panel and then lift the door to the acrylic sheet, position and screw the plate of the hinges to the door and done.

See pictures here why I want to diy. I saw many sample at shops and all have large gap like 10mm or more. Mine the gap between the panel and door is only 2 ATM card wide = 1.5mm. With 10mm thick glass and a gap of 1.5mm water will not flow or get to the other side even if i spray water at it. Of course not spraying directly.


Alamak mistake made. The 4 screws per hinge supposed to be on the inside shower and not on the outside where the face is smooth without screw heads. See pic. Anyway the screw heads are covered by buttons. Anyway, leave it as it is and change later and not putting in the buttons as yet. With buttons it look nice so decide later if want to change it.




Then I ordered the last panel around 19" wide and while waiting for delivery it was time to hang the new basin and the old mirror.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 21 2014, 08:14 PM

This is where the new smaller basin sink going to be.


Using masking tap, draw a few horizontal lines so that when I hang the sink i know it is level. Then the center were marked and the drill holes were marked too. That shows how useful masking tape is that you can draw on it than drawing on tiles especially dark color tiles.


The first hole were drilled. See a nice hole. Compare with the old holes (the two what patches) so called drilled by profession, basin installer who drill holes and installs basin practically every other day if not everyday!!! Enlarge the picture below you can see the bottom hole drilled by installer the side of the hole were hit few times by the drill bit on my tile surface and scratches too. Just how lousy these people are. Just because it cannot be seen these people just simply dont care.


Job done. The sink drain pipe was fitted with the exiting drain pipe temporary and that is why it slanted. will make it L shape and the bottom of the sink will be covered later. connecting piping hot and cold is easy.


So replacing and hanging sink is not difficult, right?

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 22 2014, 03:03 AM

The Final Piece

With door closed and water strip attached to the door (11mm width of door strip), marked with masking tape where the final glass panel sits.


Cut the length of the acrylic rod from the wall to the mark and silicone glue it to the floor.


Brackets to the wall with double sided tape.


Waited half day for silicone glue to dry. 4 brackets around the acrylic rod with double sided tape. Masking tape to the rod and the glass below. Apply silicone glue to the acrylic rod. Without wasting time lifted the glass panel onto the acrylic rod. Removed the bracket and masking tape around the acrylic rod.


Using spirit level make sure the glass stand vertically. It did not by a little, so little that I had to insert a cutting blade on the inside of the big bracket and wrapped the cutting blade with tissue paper (see pic above) so as not to cut the glass.

Masking tape the wall and glass and ready with silicone gun.

The glass is standing on its own next day


Gameover


The door. Left side 1.5mm, right side 11mm for water strip.


This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 23 2014, 08:52 PM

I always wanted to DIY but lack knowledge and experience. I admired your DIY skills. Great Job.

Stevie8 hardcore DIY. Should learn more from him.

Later many contractor tapau.

Nothing to shout about. Shout a little bit ok la . Actually everyone can and you learn along the way. It is not your hands that do it. It is your brain start thinking and start working. Only if you take the step to "Do It" it added a "yourself"to it and becomes DIY (Do It Yourself).

Here another brain teaser:

After the glass shelf been attached to the fixed panel I applied Rain X on the glass. Remember when I wanted the shelf mainly to stabilized the vibrating fixed panel and door i used L brackets to hold the glass shelf with double sided tape on 3 sides between the walls and the fixed panel. Then only I could apply silicone to the glass shelf. And now I wanted to add another shelf. Of course to hold it is again using the L bracket with double sided tape. But the double sided tape could not stick to the glass panel as before. Why? Because of Rain X. For those who do not know what RAin X is, it is a product, applied to your windscreen rain water will just flow away from your windscreen without you using much of the wipers. Water wont stick on it and so is double sided tape. It was so smooth. Now I can't hold the glass shelf with the bracket on the glass side.

So, the brain start thinking and here the brain provides the solution. Using two stools one on top another and a box see pix. Therefore DIY is all about your thinking brain and not hands


The finished product with a toilet roll so you can see the shelf properly.


This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 24 2014, 09:35 PM

You also DIY and with you and me contractor tapau.

Forgot to show the water strip.

View from inside, the water strip is exactly 11mm after pushing all in into the glass.


View from outside

Brain has to work again.

See these pictures


That was the place the old basin and there were 4 expansion bolts had to be cut and plastered. Two of the plastered holes are visibly inside the shower screen and of course unsightly.

A visit to kiddy store. Bought some stickers. Now you see it now you dont. Plaster holes no more.

How long can Rain X last? Where you got it from?

One application on windscreen can last you 3 years. It gives you a clear view on raining days but will cause your wipers to jump because your wipers cannot hold on to the smooth windscreen to give you a good wipe. You will also realize that your wipers will move faster than before due to reduced friction. On other window glass or real windows it will not get dirty easily.

Also on mirror in bathroom you will get clearer mirror. It is good especially hot shower bathroom with storage and solar water heaters.

Our water certain areas contains lime we have lot of limestone. The hot water makes the lime that dissolved in the water more liquid and as the droplets of water cooled it solidified and as water evaporates it leaves the lime behind and you will find your taps and mirror scaled with white like stains. As such Rain X helps reducing droplets of water stays on its surface and of course the white scales.

I bought it at Brother, the car accessories shop.

Thanks, will definitely get Rain X.

Talk about Rain X. Still got 1 bottle in my storeroom. Been over 10yrs keep. Don't like to use it as it give squeeze sound when wiper wipe the windscreen. Also the wiper jurgle.

Brought from japan this RainX.


This post has been edited by ozak: Feb 27 2014, 01:16 AM

Yes, correct, get one. But as Ozak and my experience it is not good for wipers. Once applied it is hard to get rid of it and you got to suffer a long time. So use it only on all glass areas but windscreen.

Just how you read the instruction when you bought it??? Blindly taruk?

Easy lah. Just go to brother shop. Pick 1 and read. The different is the japan 1 have sponge on top direct apply.

er? I thought what was that funny shape thing. Ohhooo it is a sponge! Creative Japanese.

can we apply rain-X for basin mirror or normal mirror?

Yes. So long it is glass surface.

I went to a bathroom accessory shop in 1 Puchong looking for bi-fold door for bathroom. I saw that they have shower screen door. The shop lady show me samples and styles they have with brochure. I asked how much to make a 6 foot 3 panels shower screen with 10mm tempered frameless like mine here. She said RM1150. I said it was really cheap and could she re-calculate if it is 10mm tempered glass . She confirmed yes RM1150 no mistake and inclusive of installation, the hinges, normal handle, swing door Of course the frameless is not like my frameless but with U stainless steel channels. Those channels look good. And it is inclusive of installation.

That is the cheapest I have ever found. Before the quotations I got were RM1700, RM1900 and framed 6mm RM1200.

the shop provide shower screen? i am looking for someone make a shower screen for me tho.

the shop provide shower screen? i am looking for someone make a shower screen for me tho.

If you want I can Pm you the contact.

Can pm me the shop name in 1 puchong ? Thanks.

Maxim Bath & Kitchen Gallery Sdn bhd
No. 52G Jln OP 1/5
One Puchong Business Park

sure pm me

This is the contact already replied same to gtfan. Here again

Maxim Bath & Kitchen Gallery Sdn bhd
No. 52G Jln OP 1/5
One Puchong Business Park

Other things also cheaper than other shops. I bought tap (hot and cold) and basin drain cheaper than others. Also intend to get toilet doors fr them.

oh sorry i missed that and thank you!

Thanks. Appreciate your help

so excited to see that! Im in kuching I just got a quote of shower screen with NO door. Fixed panel only 3ft * 6ft. guess how much? rm880!

RM880 is a bit high I think.

3x6 =18sq ft x RM18 = RM324 here in peninsular.

RM880-RM324=RM556. You are paying RM556 for installation + some accessories like stainless steel U channel? Anyway U channel is not cheap depending on quality.

Can take a pic after installation?

This post has been edited by stevie8: Mar 18 2014, 07:55 PM

havent done yet, am just collecting quotes.
the quote i got is from a shop that normally sells high. will get more quotes to compare

Really have to salute you Stevie8, shower screen also DIY.

Now going to re-renovate kitchen. But such huge project cannot DIY leh.

Redo cabinet? Or include the floor and wall finishes?

Extend the kitchen area involving wet work, windows, door, tiles, relocate toilet and room, kitchen cabinet, furnishing, etc. Extensive work. Now looking at design and quotations. Headache.

Wow! I'm really impressed! I suppose the reason why most people don't DIY is 1) lack of knowledge 2) not willing to accept the consequences of failure. I'm glad your shower screen turned out well, but I can only imagine the thousand horrors and sleepless nights I would go through, thinking of the many possible things that might go wrong. But seriously, kudos. It was very inspiring to read about your endeavour

Haha, that is a real big project.
Good luck to you!

It was also my first time DIY tiling besides the shower screen. The thing to do is to understand how things work and the tools and materials required. When I have the thought of wanting it, I go round the shops and getting quotations and see the samples myself. Then go get quotations for the "raw" materials and same time google DIY and youtube. From there on decide whether to get contractor to do it or DIY. Looking at the samples workmanship and cost I decided to DIY the way I like it like total frameless and solid stable screen that those samples I seen with large gaps and goyang vibrate as you close the door. Also they dont know how to open both sides for the door and insist no such things and I must be a fool wanting something nobody does. For the vibrating door they insist with adding a top rod it will be stable. I do not see how the top stainless steel rod is of any help. So, I device a side glass and it really hold solidly. The side glass can be a triangle no necessary to be a square and act as a shelf. For those whose shower screen that vibrate can just copy this simple technique.

Besides, the use of acrylic at the bottom is my very own idea. It works and I was sure it work after doing the experiment with silicone glue. My only regret is the colour of the tile. I should have use light grey tiles than the pink tiles to match the bathroom colours.

Yes, this is a big project and since it is big have to think carefully if i missed anything. Now thinking of extending it to first floor enlarge one of the rooms and add a toilet. So many many things to consider and furnishing is another headache. Even the kitchen cabinet top is giving me headache should we choose quarts, solid surface, granite, colour and design, etc, etc, etc. pening besides griles, windows, doors and those things not cheap something like RM70 per sq ft.

Yes, memang a bit tedious at this stage.
But after completed the reno, you will think all worth the hassle.