When the 2 pieces of glass was delivered, the first piece which is the side panel was chipped due to carelessness of worker during transportation. The workers agreed it was badly chipped and said to bring back to factory to polished the chipped part. I was wondering how could they polish a tempered glass. True, the factory people called up said it could not be polished but to make new one for me.

The moral of the story is inspect before you accept delivery. Even for hard tempered glass it chips or scratches.

The fixed panel temper glass was supposed to sit on the setting block which made from rubber or cured silicone and is translucent brownish. I have to cut 2 pieces at the height of 10mm and width not more than 10mm so that it is not wider than the 10mm tempered glass panel and to be seal in silicone glue. The height need to be exact 10mm to accommodate the door bottom as the door sweep is 10mm.

Instead of the setting block which I paid RM5, I decided not to use it, and used acrylic sheet. So I went and bought one piece 10mm 6"x24" and cut two pieces of 10mm width. The reasons for using acrylic instead of the rubber setting block

1. Acrylic is transparent, clear and see thru better than glass. Whereas if i use setting block there would be 10mm of silicon glue at the bottom with two setting blocks. Silicone is not transparent when it is thick like 10mm and it becomes translucent and blur.

2. When it is soft, the setting block if I were to cut 10mm height, with the heavy tempered glass sitting on it it should sink and could be 9mm or 9 1/2mm, too much of trials and errors. Also, the first piece will hang the door and that will sink further and become uneven. This is how heavy the door 26" x 72", 64lbs or 28kg. Imagine you carry a 10kg rice bag. This is 3 times! How woiuld two rubber blocks hold 2 pieces of 2' x 6' temper glass ?


3. It is not a problem for the hard tempered glass to sit on acrylic which is plastic and this acrylic should not disintegrate as early as setting block.

4. Of course it is the look i like.

Will it last? The silicone I applied in the kitchen doesn't last, I have to reapply after few years. Was it due to a bad job? I used it to seal the kitchen sink & the cement top.

Had you thought of painting the tiles? I saw on the internet people just painted over rather than replacing or overlaying. Just curious, cause I am thinking of painting my tiles which are dirty.

Of course it will last many many years. Look at the data sheet here: http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/3559219836TDS%...(Low%20VOC).pdf

The data sheet states 1.2 MPa = 174psi of pressure tensile. Dont know how strong it is but the number look like very strong pressure it can takes so long as the material stick well.

100% silicone glue are used in sealing aquarium, strong and last many years. The kitchen seal you used are coloured ones and paintable, I guess, which likely to be acrylic glue, not silicone that wont last. Do not use acid base silicone for your kitchen. The acid will eat/corrode the concrete surface and make sealing loose. Use the neutral one as shown in my post.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 20 2014, 11:51 PM

How I silicone glued the glass panel standing vertically.

Things required: L brackets or anything square or rectangular 90 degree 8 pieces,double sided tape, 3 feet long ruler, spirit level, silicone glue of course, masking tape, a used credit card and a helper for positioning.

Bracket at the floor


Bracket on the wall


1. Once the acrylic stick is silicone sealed down to the floor and cured over night 4 L bracket were stuck next to the acrylic stick with double sided tape on 4 sides of the acrylic stick. This will provide guide to the glass to sit on the acrylic stick in position.

2. With the 3 feet long ruler using spirit level measure it vertically on the wall and stick another 2 L brackets on the wall about 20mm apart. This will allow the glass panel to be slot in and hold the glass vertically but loosely.

3. Then just lift the glass panel and helper guide you placing the glass panel on the acrylic stick.

4. With the spirit level leveling the glass panel vertically against the wall and stick another 2 L brackets to the wall. This time the 2 L brackets provide a true vertical for the glass panel to slot it correctly vertical. The earlier 2 L brackets can be taken out but no harm leaving it there. Same time make a mark on the floor the glass panel would sits. There should be at least 2mm gap between the wall and glass panel for silicone glue.

5. Take the glass panel away. Stick masking tape along the two sides of the acrylic stick of the floor (so that silicone glue will not stick on the acrylic stick but on the masking tape later) and stick the bottom edge two sides of the glass panel where the it will sit on the acrylic stick.

6. Apply silicone glue to the top of the acrylic stick where the glass panel will sit, then carry the glass panel and again the helper guide the glass panel to the correct position on the acrylic stick. The glass panel will stand vertically and hold by the 2 wall brackets and you can let go your hands. Make adjustment where necessary.

7. Use credit card wipe away the excess silicone glue. Do not use your finger, the glass still could cut you if you press too hard. Then pull away the 4 masking tape one by one.

8. You cannot silicone glue the glass panel to the wall yet because there are 2 brackets holding the glass panel you cannot removed as it will fall. Apply a litter silicone glue to hold the glass panel to the wall allow to cure over night then only you can remove the two wall bracket and apply silicone glue to it. So, do same 4 masking tape on the very top of the glass panel and wall about 4 to 5 inches inches from the top of the glass panel. The 2 masking tapes width on the wall should be less than 10mm about 8mm will do (so that it would be covered by new silicone glue tomorrow). Apply silicone glue to 3 inches between the top of the glass panel and wall not more than the masking tape, wipe away excess silicone glue and pull the masking tapes.

Let it dries over night before applying silicone glue bwteen the wall and glass panel. That is when the silicone is cured overnight you can remove the wall L brackets and apply silicone glue and do not forget to use masking tape.

From the above you can see it takes 3 days to do this one glass panel mainly waiting for silicone to cure. That could be one of the reason why contractors do not want to do frameless shower screen and never have experience in it as no sifu to learn from.

When U channels are used it takes just one day. Measure, drill holes, screw U channels, place setting blocks in U channel, apply silicone to U channel, slot in glass panel, wipe excess silicone glue and done, all go in a day.

No. I have same problem basically lime from water. You can try using rubbing compound buy from hardware shop. It is a hard work. Do not use acid. Acid cannot help instead corrode your grout and then you will have water leak problem at the drain holes which are concrete.

After the silicone cured as expected the panel vibrate goyang but I go ahead hanging the door added 28kg to the goyong vibrate door. Closing and opening the door cause the panel to move and vibrate.

To overcome this problem I silicone a piece of 6mm glass 15" x 9' as shown in the picture and next day when the silicone cured the panel and door are solid, no more vibration. the 6mm glass act as a stabilizer.


Again L brackets were used to hold the 6mm glass and silicone glue it.

The 6mm 15" x 9 1/2" glass panel is a shelf for towels or any other things.

Hanging the door is easy. Remember I bought a piece of 10mm 6" x 24" acrylic sheet and cut out 2 pieces at 10mm. There is a purpose I bought more than required. The balance is to put on the floor at the door to support the door hanging. With that it was easy to hang the door hinges to the door. First install the hinges to the fixed panel and then lift the door to the acrylic sheet, position and screw the plate of the hinges to the door and done.

See pictures here why I want to diy. I saw many sample at shops and all have large gap like 10mm or more. Mine the gap between the panel and door is only 2 ATM card wide = 1.5mm. With 10mm thick glass and a gap of 1.5mm water will not flow or get to the other side even if i spray water at it. Of course not spraying directly.


Alamak mistake made. The 4 screws per hinge supposed to be on the inside shower and not on the outside where the face is smooth without screw heads. See pic. Anyway the screw heads are covered by buttons. Anyway, leave it as it is and change later and not putting in the buttons as yet. With buttons it look nice so decide later if want to change it.




Then I ordered the last panel around 19" wide and while waiting for delivery it was time to hang the new basin and the old mirror.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 21 2014, 08:14 PM

This is where the new smaller basin sink going to be.


Using masking tap, draw a few horizontal lines so that when I hang the sink i know it is level. Then the center were marked and the drill holes were marked too. That shows how useful masking tape is that you can draw on it than drawing on tiles especially dark color tiles.


The first hole were drilled. See a nice hole. Compare with the old holes (the two what patches) so called drilled by profession, basin installer who drill holes and installs basin practically every other day if not everyday!!! Enlarge the picture below you can see the bottom hole drilled by installer the side of the hole were hit few times by the drill bit on my tile surface and scratches too. Just how lousy these people are. Just because it cannot be seen these people just simply dont care.


Job done. The sink drain pipe was fitted with the exiting drain pipe temporary and that is why it slanted. will make it L shape and the bottom of the sink will be covered later. connecting piping hot and cold is easy.


So replacing and hanging sink is not difficult, right?

This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 22 2014, 03:03 AM

The Final Piece

With door closed and water strip attached to the door (11mm width of door strip), marked with masking tape where the final glass panel sits.


Cut the length of the acrylic rod from the wall to the mark and silicone glue it to the floor.


Brackets to the wall with double sided tape.


Waited half day for silicone glue to dry. 4 brackets around the acrylic rod with double sided tape. Masking tape to the rod and the glass below. Apply silicone glue to the acrylic rod. Without wasting time lifted the glass panel onto the acrylic rod. Removed the bracket and masking tape around the acrylic rod.


Using spirit level make sure the glass stand vertically. It did not by a little, so little that I had to insert a cutting blade on the inside of the big bracket and wrapped the cutting blade with tissue paper (see pic above) so as not to cut the glass.

Masking tape the wall and glass and ready with silicone gun.

The glass is standing on its own next day


Gameover


The door. Left side 1.5mm, right side 11mm for water strip.


This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 23 2014, 08:52 PM

I always wanted to DIY but lack knowledge and experience. I admired your DIY skills. Great Job.

Stevie8 hardcore DIY. Should learn more from him.

Later many contractor tapau.

Nothing to shout about. Shout a little bit ok la . Actually everyone can and you learn along the way. It is not your hands that do it. It is your brain start thinking and start working. Only if you take the step to "Do It" it added a "yourself"to it and becomes DIY (Do It Yourself).

Here another brain teaser:

After the glass shelf been attached to the fixed panel I applied Rain X on the glass. Remember when I wanted the shelf mainly to stabilized the vibrating fixed panel and door i used L brackets to hold the glass shelf with double sided tape on 3 sides between the walls and the fixed panel. Then only I could apply silicone to the glass shelf. And now I wanted to add another shelf. Of course to hold it is again using the L bracket with double sided tape. But the double sided tape could not stick to the glass panel as before. Why? Because of Rain X. For those who do not know what RAin X is, it is a product, applied to your windscreen rain water will just flow away from your windscreen without you using much of the wipers. Water wont stick on it and so is double sided tape. It was so smooth. Now I can't hold the glass shelf with the bracket on the glass side.

So, the brain start thinking and here the brain provides the solution. Using two stools one on top another and a box see pix. Therefore DIY is all about your thinking brain and not hands


The finished product with a toilet roll so you can see the shelf properly.


This post has been edited by stevie8: Feb 24 2014, 09:35 PM

You also DIY and with you and me contractor tapau.

Forgot to show the water strip.

View from inside, the water strip is exactly 11mm after pushing all in into the glass.


View from outside

Brain has to work again.

See these pictures


That was the place the old basin and there were 4 expansion bolts had to be cut and plastered. Two of the plastered holes are visibly inside the shower screen and of course unsightly.

A visit to kiddy store. Bought some stickers. Now you see it now you dont. Plaster holes no more.

How long can Rain X last? Where you got it from?

One application on windscreen can last you 3 years. It gives you a clear view on raining days but will cause your wipers to jump because your wipers cannot hold on to the smooth windscreen to give you a good wipe. You will also realize that your wipers will move faster than before due to reduced friction. On other window glass or real windows it will not get dirty easily.

Also on mirror in bathroom you will get clearer mirror. It is good especially hot shower bathroom with storage and solar water heaters.

Our water certain areas contains lime we have lot of limestone. The hot water makes the lime that dissolved in the water more liquid and as the droplets of water cooled it solidified and as water evaporates it leaves the lime behind and you will find your taps and mirror scaled with white like stains. As such Rain X helps reducing droplets of water stays on its surface and of course the white scales.

I bought it at Brother, the car accessories shop.

Thanks, will definitely get Rain X.

Talk about Rain X. Still got 1 bottle in my storeroom. Been over 10yrs keep. Don't like to use it as it give squeeze sound when wiper wipe the windscreen. Also the wiper jurgle.

Brought from japan this RainX.


This post has been edited by ozak: Feb 27 2014, 01:16 AM