There are some who gets 7k to 8k offer. It's just a few pages back, might want to recheck with your SA
LYN Official Toyota Vios Owners Thread V4, Thread for all LYN's Toyota Vios owners
LYN Official Toyota Vios Owners Thread V4, Thread for all LYN's Toyota Vios owners
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Nov 24 2014, 09:05 AM
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#61
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80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
There are some who gets 7k to 8k offer. It's just a few pages back, might want to recheck with your SA
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Dec 3 2014, 02:11 PM
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#62
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80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(secret_tidus @ Nov 27 2014, 10:03 PM) owned a 3 months old e spec.. so far no problem.. just kruk sound appear.. btw is the bonnet iron stand sound.. Really? I've never expected that. How'd you secure it in place? (So that it's secure enough)I'm getting some increasingly often and loud noise of loose plates/metals(?) when travelling on uneven grounds. At some point I'm happy because it makes it easier when I go and ask for repair/claim parts. Failed to recreate the normal "kruk" sound when going through bumps. That happens too rarely. |
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Dec 5 2014, 09:46 AM
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#63
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80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(BravoZeroTwo @ Dec 5 2014, 09:34 AM) It's mostly the 'kruk' sound that happens when you go over bump sometimes and the loud roof noise. Also some rattlings here and there but I suppose that's worksmanship issue and is not prevalent across all Vios. A matter of luck. Same goes to the 'kruk' sound. Some gets it, some doesn't. I'm one of the unlucky ones. HahahaOtherwise, I find the ride comfortable enough. The only problem that comes from this car so far is the noise. |
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Dec 5 2014, 11:20 AM
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#64
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80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(RoxyMunky @ Dec 5 2014, 10:31 AM) bro, try to invest on floor and rear car boot soundproof. I took a look at GA Auto Soundworks that you recommended before this. I am interested in having floor, firewall and door insulation but alas, budget constraint dictates that the plan has to be postponed. Anyway, is the car rear making noise at all? I barely noticed anything. Hardly have any passengers at the back so I've received no complain thus far.then, DIY install the P and D rubber seal on the door rubber lining gap. it improves the cabin NVH by a thick margin. The rattling sound mostly come from the dashboard/front area. Am unsure which so I hope that getting the firewall insulation done will reduce the noise. Any luck on yours? Thinking of buying P and D rubber seal from this seller. Is this good enough? |
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Dec 5 2014, 11:29 AM
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#65
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Junior Member
80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(RoxyMunky @ Dec 5 2014, 11:23 AM) the car boot insulation blocks the hollow noise that you can hear upon cruising above 60kmh. Aye, will get the P and D rubber from him then. Thanks!the firewall won't solve your dashboard rattling noise. It only helps in reducing the engine revving noise. the P and D rubber seller, its the same seller that i bought alot from.. these rubber seal helps in reducing windnoise from door, as well as tyre noise from door bottom after you install the P seal. The problem with the firewall is that I'm not sure if the rattling noise comes from the dashboard or the engine area. It sounds like some loose metal plates clanking at each other when going on uneven roads. Gonna bring the technician on a long drive in around 2 weeks. Must cruise around until the source is identified. Hahahaha. If the sound does indeed come from the mounting/lower arm, will firewall insulation help? |
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Jan 7 2015, 12:25 AM
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#66
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Junior Member
80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
From personal experience and basic understanding of how gear box works, shifting to N while your car is in motion will do negligible to no harm to your gearbox. Look at the video below for better understanding of how it generally works.
If you switch to neutral gear while in motion, all you do is 'release' the gear, there's no additional friction or damage to the gearbox However, I suspect that if you switch to D gear while your car is still in motion in neutral gear, you will cause a little damage to the gearbox. As you can see from the video, the gear will still be rotating when the D gear is engaged, causing friction with a moving gear part. TL/DR: Shift to N while moving = OK, Shifting to D from N while in motion = Personally not advisable. I could be wrong, feel free to correct me. |
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Jan 11 2015, 01:07 PM
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#67
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Junior Member
80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(PPZ @ Jan 9 2015, 03:53 PM) Hey guys, want to ask if i should buy the new myvi advanced version or vios E series? Well, my suggestion is that you get whichever that is cheaper. Car is really a depreciating asset and since you asked here, I assume that you're not rich enough to not be bothered by monthly installment (I am bothered. Hahahaha). If new myvi advanced version, my loan will take up to 5 years with RM 780 per month If i take vios E series, my loan will take 7 years with RM 900 per month If you were me, which one should i take and why? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks! Point of consideration. 1. Load - If you don't bring full passenger/luggage often then Myvi is good enough 2. Finance - Less commitment is always better. You can save it towards property/expenditure instead. 3. Standard - Honestly, For the general public, having a Vios is almost always better than a Myvi but you're the one facing the monetary commitment. All in all, I'd opt for Myvi. It's as powerful as Vios (if not better than this third gen one) and you have less commitment. |
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Apr 29 2015, 05:37 PM
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#68
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Junior Member
80 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
I own a batch 3 Vios and I've changed lower arm and mounting. I must say that the 'kruk' sound has been reduced significantly. I live in an area where the road condition is bad so the 'kruk' sound happens more often. On normal roads it's hardly noticeable.
For people who asks if they should get a Vios or a City/Mazda 2, I'd say that if cheap spare parts and perceived reliability of the car is not a concern, don't go for Vios. Too much hassle for a new car and the delayed pickup is really a turn off, other problems aside. |
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