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 -+♠+-LYN Proton Persona Owners Club V50-+♠+-, Welcome new Persona SV owner *claps*

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Cavino
post Dec 24 2013, 08:44 AM

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QUOTE(r20Seven @ Dec 24 2013, 12:03 AM)
Hi i am new here. I have a Persona Elegance M-Line - Manual - 2011.

Sometimes I feel the car engine response is bad. It feel very underpower when I shift gear, it feel like the engine shudder when we try to let our car move on low speed with top gear. It feel delay between the gas pedal is press and the engine response kick in.

But sometimes the car feel smooth and good response when drive on next day.

Will it be ECU problem? I have this problem since I got this car 2 years ago.

Any advices & suggestion would be appreciated! ><
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Did you try cleaning your throttle body yet? If not try it first as it is not expensive to do that and it may solve your problem. No harm done cleaning it if not solve also since its already over 2 years old.
Cavino
post Dec 24 2013, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Dec 23 2013, 02:42 PM)
No V51 liao. Persona gonna be EOL or we all go change to other car.  whistling.gif
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How ar!!! I no more money change car. Next year, elec naik, food naik, toll naik, petrol sure naik sooner or later but gaji tak naik. Thinking abt all the cost naik, my little brother also cannot naik liao.....I bet go kiu kai, also price naik next year.

After sell PE, itu 2nd hand selling price enuf to buy what car har !!!! Viva can or not....I but no like with no butt...
Cavino
post Dec 24 2013, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Dec 24 2013, 01:15 PM)
cavino will be officiall thread v51 TS rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
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Don't want....I only want to whine..
Cavino
post Dec 24 2013, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(Effy92 @ Dec 24 2013, 09:15 PM)
Maybe because of aircon compressor to powderfull? you will feel smooth when compressor off but when compressor kick you may felt underpower. better switch to warmest temperature @ 30c only, the time interval for compressor off will be slightly longer than 20c.
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That is not practical lar...rather than trying to "hide" the problem, its better to try solve it.
Cavino
post Dec 24 2013, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(r20Seven @ Dec 24 2013, 08:16 PM)
I guess never do the cleaning yet haha. ok I wll try on that 1st. thanks
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Its really not necessary to clean throttle in a few years. Normally only clean when car start feeling laggy, heavier, etc. Some car never clean throttle for 4-5 years also ok (gua punya city last clean at 40K mileage (problem), till now at 107k, no clean again, no problem).
Cavino
post Dec 26 2013, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Dec 26 2013, 02:34 PM)
not convenient to tell u here...
severe gearbox kong - car cant drive at all. no gear engaged
mine is not really severe, can drive but experiencing clutch slip when gear is engaged.
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What is the symptom form clutch slip ar ???

New City gonna come out, wait first then compare with tukong...
Cavino
post Dec 26 2013, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(s30ckf @ Dec 26 2013, 03:47 PM)
my workshop didn't carry Borch brake pad but Metal Bendix King, how you think about his? use before?
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If you want performance brake that eat your rotor like shit....ya...go for metal king. I don't recommend bosch, too much brake dust. Use FBK brand (proton oem also), as good as bosch and little brake dust to boot. Abt RM90 to RM100 a pair outside. I'm using it for my auto.
Cavino
post Dec 27 2013, 08:29 AM

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QUOTE(nickzkuso @ Dec 26 2013, 09:49 PM)
buy persona sv..no need pay so much d/p  whistling.gif  whistling.gif
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You think he wanna go buy another PE after his experience with his new PE then...
Cavino
post Dec 27 2013, 08:31 AM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Dec 26 2013, 05:01 PM)
unsure.gif Nope. The one kena rape by nenek one. ph34r.gif
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Depends, if I got paid a lot for it....can consider...but have to take <removed> to get it up... rolleyes.gif
Cavino
post Dec 27 2013, 08:32 AM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Dec 26 2013, 05:34 PM)
unsure.gif suddenly so active when topic changes... hmm.gif
cavino got any advice on ATF other than using SP-3? not advisable to use other ATF that has different spec compared to SP-3?
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Gua don't know, not much experience with any other ATF except for SP-3 and XP-3.
Cavino
post Dec 27 2013, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Dec 26 2013, 03:57 PM)
what shop you recommend?
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Unless you want to come to Tmn Sentosa in Klang. Itu tyre shops, alignment/balancing not bad. Still ketuk a bit for camber if camber runs...

However tyres pricing is pretty competitive. Last time quoted RM190 for stock size C-Drive 2. PS3 for 185/55/R15 quoted RM220-RM230.....outside RM250. Just changed Hankook V12 (1 year old unused tyres coz no more production, waiting for V12-Evo 2 out)....only RM190 for 4 pcs for my City 195/55/R15. I don't think I can get that price even for a year old unused V12 anywhere else.
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Dec 30 2013, 09:56 AM)
jasonloh7906 also using D3-MV for 20000km already...atf drained out is slightly black which is kinda unusual.
need to bring down the gearbox as stated by voscar below. the picture taken by my mechanic is my gearbox is totally taken out for rebuild.
yeap need to bring down the gearbox... our gearbox can fill up to total 6-7L if u include the torque converter and the pan...normally we do draining and topping up of atf which can only drained out around 4L+. there is still leftover which cannot be drained out...unless u do a flush until the old atf is totally drained out,only u do the filling up.
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I'm still wondering, why the heck you guys want to change to different gear oil brand when either the SP3 or even the better XP3 is doing a good job already.

Most under the tree mechanics usually says this oil can use, that oil can use. Most likely those oils CAN be used BUT what is left unsaid is that it also might be shorten life span, miniscule damage due to different specs, etc. Nobody knows if it will happen now or later or even happen at all. That's why I prefer to use back stock oil unless the NEW oil is proven to give a noticeable increase in performance with minimal or even better no repercussion later.

My mechanic even say City iridium spec can be used in PE. Sure can use but I'm having doubt if it will be provide smooth perfect ignition, size or even having long term performance hit or what. No.....I would not trust everything a mechanic says.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 2 2014, 08:45 AM
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(r3apers @ Dec 30 2013, 10:52 AM)
automatic gb is sensitive with fluid and additive.. thts why advice use ori and same spec and dont intend pandai pandai add thous lubricate or other additive stuff..
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Ya lor, if you try it on my 06 City, you gonna cry big time when that over 20K CVT gear box failed.....
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 08:56 AM

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QUOTE(waiket @ Dec 31 2013, 12:45 PM)
Guys. Wanna ask. Minor service 50K km.
Changed:
- pertonas fully syc
- manual gear oil
- dropin air filter

All get charged rm250 (inculde labour).
Price reasonable?
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Noticed you mentioned PETRONAS FS. Make sure it IS NOT 5W50 coz that's what SC have in stock for FS, not the W40 rated ones. Having a W50 FS might have worst performance than a W40 semi syn.
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jan 2 2014, 09:06 AM)
What's the code for City? Thread probably same, but the length of the electrode may be different
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IZFR6K13 kuah....not familiar with spark plug so don't want try.

From Denso list and web, the alternative is IK-20. Thus I doubt it will perform perfectly as IT-20 that was meant for our engine. My mechanic insist can use.....say all plugs same one.....

Anyone know a reliable supplier for ORIGINAL denso plugs? Not urgent coz still got 15K to go b4 changing but I always like to buy in advance so no need urgently search later. Might be opting to use back the 30K mileage IT20 performance plug or VT20 for long life version if price is right.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 2 2014, 09:27 AM
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jan 2 2014, 09:34 AM)
I think IK20 is the popular one for Honda but no one actually told me IK20 can replace IT20. After checking Denso website, IK and IT has exact same diameter but IT is tapered seat.

I am also looking to replace my plugs. I am eyeing on gjrforce's sale https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=467970&hl= Quite a good price here.

Ask for bulk purchase if you can combine shipping with me? Haha
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Everything same except for REACH and TAPER SEAT. IK20's 19mm vs IT20's 17.5mm. Not sure what is the effect of REACH length..


There's a lot of fake outside, sure that dealer only deals with real stuff?
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 04:18 PM

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QUOTE(xandras @ Jan 2 2014, 04:16 PM)
Go trade in lo.. Considering they're quite new, you might still get a good price for trading them in.
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Not when they have sidewall damage like that. Not many place want to accept such trade in.
Cavino
post Jan 2 2014, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(Woon Ann @ Jan 2 2014, 04:26 PM)
Any idea where or who doing this? I'm from jb and not much people doing here and want it. Sad sad.gif
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The best to do trade in is when you change tyre at that shop. If you just go sell like that and with that sidewall damage, chances are very low but then again you might get lucky, RM30-RM50 per pcs also ok.
Cavino
post Jan 3 2014, 09:10 AM

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QUOTE(waiket @ Jan 2 2014, 08:50 PM)
from the 3 time free service at SC, pertronas FS from the SC is definitely perform better than semi syn.
description: hmm.. felt like lighter, smoother acceleration.
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In terms of lube quality and lubricating strength, FS is definitely way ahead of semi (which is almost similar with mineral lube).

Generally the viscosity will be almost the same between both viscosity rating at most time. However as it gets hotter, W50 will maintain thicker lube that provides more load protection in engine with constant high speed runs with high temp.

However thicker fluids also has a trade off, since the higher the viscosity, the more drag at bearing, etc thus more potential power loss or worse FC. So while W50 FS quality trumped over the W40 semi, the viscosity difference will even each other benefits out when compared if you used the FS for 10K. W50 will put more than necessary burden on the bearing, etc for our PE thus IMO, not recommended even if it is FS.

Our PE engine runs really hot but its won't reach the level that it needed 5W50 (yet) unless you really maintain 160km/h constantly in most of your drive. Thus using W40 is a much better trade off for PE's performance and FC.

Or you can put it this way, if you switch to 5W40 FS now (if you're on 5W50), your car will feel EVEN MORE lighter thus much more powerful. Whats more, they're usually at same price range.

Unfortunately I also understand SC only have 5W50 FS. Once warranty over, you go switch to W40 FS, the performance difference will be very noticeable.

On side note, PETRONAS Semi is really quite shitty in all aspect, so using FS, even that W50 definitely seems improved in performance. However when compared PETRONAS FS at W50 vs lets say Caltex Havoline semi at W40, the FS improvement will be much much lesser.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 3 2014, 10:03 AM
Cavino
post Jan 3 2014, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jan 3 2014, 09:59 AM)
A lot of Proton SC have Synthium 3000, 5000 and Shell Helix Ultra in the range of 5W-40
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In turns out I only see PETRONAS W50 rated FS for SC I go including HQ. If SC using other than Syntium, then sure got W40 FS.

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