Last time I asked from my usual tyre shop, CD2 are RM190 for stock 15" size. Cheapest I can find. Better than kedai kayu, I think.

Gua RM1800 whole car....

Haha.....most cheapo tint will bubbled within a couple of years. Worse still is the rear demister screen, bubbled and when tear, might pull the demister off. That's why I emphasis on using a good quality tint and good workmanship on rear screen coz it most probably have to stay day until car EOL.

Don't know address. Its Teoh Brother's in Taman Sentosa, its HQ kuah among the many branches coz the big boss is there.

The price I got for PS3 185/55/R15 also quite good last time when compared with "outside". Got my City's Hankook V12 installed there as well.

Just now laugh like shit....coz

One of our office driver shaking its pen based liquid paper hard coz dry up liao. Up and down up and down..

Our malay receptionist : Kenapa goncang itu kuat sangat?

Our indian driver : Air tak nak keluar...

No, you should put SV is B-Line with disc brake and air bags. Everything else still b-line.

H-Line got leather seat, much better NVH pad insulation, bodykit, fog lamps, etc. Both have different class of comfort level.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 23 2014, 12:41 PM

Have you included repaint in that cost? Its not that cheap as he had to knock both the door and rear side body. Repainting the door and rear body will cost much more.

I doubt any add on can actually decrease the FC. Of course, taking out the spare tyres, reduce extra "baggage" (go gym), will help also....ever so slightly. My meter almost always show 7+l/100km but when avg the filled petrol, 8+l/100km, so if you read from meter, I suggest you go the manual way of fill petrol full tank avg to calc.

PE seems to excel and somehow save petrol and higher speed (rpm) coz its optimal torque come in pretty late. So lower than 2.5rpm at lower speed is not really an optimal rpm reading for FC savings unlike other car makes with higher torque and lower weight ratio (aka City, vios, etc).

And be a hard working guy to wash filter every 5K ~ 10K or so. Me, I just spend less than RM20 to change new stock filter every 10-15K. Easier, cleaner and less problematic later.

I no need wash at all. Duduk kat rumah, lepak kaki....

So more if Selangor tak da air (contingency level of 0.7% vs 10% supposedly safe limit), your car gonna eat dust.

First couple of tanks very high FC ones. Probably engine and parts still new thus efficiency of parts like piston, etc grinding is not good yet.

It should improved after a few tanks but FC does not go down a lot until your engine is vet, that is around 5-10K mileage. Mine seems to improved after hitting 15K mileage. Stayed consistent since then.

Oh wait.....when I installed LCP har....I think around that time also.

That is solved by LCP actually. The effect of LCP is bringing forward the torque acceleration. I've always mentioned, I could close gaps faster, accelerate much faster at low end.......one of key changes is LCP somehow switch the gear earlier than before.

Before LCP, from standstill, it takes quite a while for auto to change gear to 2 and then 3. The slow gear change actually hold the car back instead of giving it more low end power as it does not change when needed (manual has no such issue). This increased FC besides slowing acceleration speed once the low gear runs out of breath before it changes.

After LCP, when accelerating from standstill, the gear smoothly changes when its reaching a certain speed and so on to gear 3 without a hiccup unlike the stock ride. No pulling back....just smooth acceleration all the way to high speed if needed. That is why I'm in the opinion that LCP is A MUST for PE AUTO TRANNY.

Initially when I installed LCP, I keep overpressing of accelerator pedal coz used to tekan kuat sikit for car to move. After a week or so, my right foot just naturally tekan softer sikit and the car just zoom smoothly to higher speed. Vibration and sound of engine is noticeably louder and I've complained abt it, thus LCP has cons as well.

In the end, the pro of everyday driving with MUCH increased and smoother low end torque acceleration for auto tranny is just too great vs the cons of increased vibration and engine noise just......disappeared (get used to it liao). As mentioned many times, I would have abandon PE if not for the LCP mod to address the weakness of PE auto tranny gear change and low end acceleration.

Go for either Works Engineering (that's what I'm currently using), abt RM350 or so OR go for Mytheo (that's what I'm supposed to install....mistaking the high price, regret a bit), abt RM550.

If you're in Klang Valley, call Drex up. Most of our PE Works installed by him. Later only find out Mytheo price only RM550 including installation (abt 1-2 years ago), not RM700++ as I initially thought...

Mytheo has harmonic dampener, similar to our stock, a better option if you willing to part more cash for it. Works still ok tho but hear that vibration a tiny bit stronger than Mytheo.

And DON"T DIY unless you know what you're doing. You would not want your CP to drop of and the belt worn our prematurely or even drop off if you don't know how to install correctly. Engine will stop running ooi. For normal mechanic tho, its plug and play, easy.

When you're using auto tranny, MUST GO INSTALL LCP. Our auto on wheel hp only 70++ vs manual 90++. Quite a huge difference thus LCP is a must to address auto tranny low end torque major weakness.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 28 2014, 09:12 PM

I don't know abt manual but for auto tranny, its a necessity, regardless of SV or not.

I would suggest driving a few months, get used to car and most importantly drive stock to check if any problem arises. After a few months, after most items (warranty) fixed and car run smoothly, only consider installation. I installed after hitting 15K mileage.

LCP brings forward the torque increment, not increase the torque out of nowhere. That means in layman explanation.....it will hit lets say 50% power much sooner than without. That also means it will hit 100% torque much earlier.....but once hit and if rpm go higher, it will go downwards SOONER than before.

For everyday driving (auto tranny), its a gifts but for redliners.....those that drive above 160km/h constantly.....its not a good mod as it will lose power sooner. I constantly hit 130-140km/h at abt 3.5~4K rpm. Rarely if ever exceed them. So these....redliner lose power issue is a non issue. I will need that increased torque everyday in my city and highway driving (130km/h not out of breath yet....still powering up), vs the once in awhile or never reach 5K rpm.

Also with works LCP without harmonic dampener, I cant remember if campro harmonic resonance that can damage crankshaft comes at 5.5K rpm or 7K plus rpm. If you're a redliner, Mytheo with dampener is a MUST to minimize risk oif damaging.

In a way, this mod is similar to open pod air filter....low end torque increase but in a way lowering the maximum speed.....ala 180km/h max vs 200km/h previously. However it does not have open pod weakness.......very dirty throttle body that reduced performance overtime...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 29 2014, 10:20 AM

Everything also you mod liao. I only have stiff ring and lcp enuf, coz no money unlike someone here always complain no money...suddenly ribut air, ribut apa pun masuk.... jk...jk...

Battery, you should change laio before it goes down....halfway when balik kampong. I changed 2 years ngam ngam even tho battery still ok, don't want to face what my wife and mom faced.....got stuck jusco and middle of nowhere when battery kaput halfway respectively.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 29 2014, 11:15 AM

Ooi.....you punya bini target long ago tak da progress kah?

What cc hah, your bike?

When I young, I also want ride bike, then my mom worried....since basikal also I sometime jatuh, take me go see Chinese feng shui life thingy.....say if I ride bike, sure die one.....I no belif, so go see another master.....also say I will go meet maker.....still want a bike, then western......tarot card reader.....card show a man with many many swords piercing thru his body.....that seals the fate of my bike ownership.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 29 2014, 11:24 AM

Don't spend too much cari ayam.....ayam nowadays got credit kah, until you need to bayar that hutang with your bonus...

Single free my a$$, that what most single say AFTER FAILED getting bini. Get bini, can get free "bed massage" halal one......save lots of money....some more if bini earn as much, got extra pocket money somemore if you pandai bodek.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showuser=82686

Might also be wheel bearing failing if the screeching sound also sound rough...

Last I heard outside is abt RM600 or so, not sure tho coz I changed the control knobs module set under warranty when the button on off by itself occasionally. So far, does not reoccur after the change. So I strongly suspect its the same case for vort3x.