I'm using 2 sets.

My pair of Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers moved to the bedroom for music only listening. My theatre room now fully equipped with SVS ultra and prime speakers.

Q Acoustics make decent speakers all around. But which model are you specifically talking about? Significant differences between the entry level 3000 series and the Concept series.

Jeez the in-ceiling speakers cost more than your front LCR combined. The shop trying to gasak you or what?

Spend more on your front LCR, that's 10x more important than Atmos. 95% of the sound comes from the front and sub.

Yes, I know it's 2 pairs that's why I said it's overpriced. They're just effects speakers, don't have to spend so much money on them. You could just use some Klipsch CS18C which are 8 inch drivers, they only cost RM500 a piece or if you want to go even cheaper and not lose anything really, a pair of Yamaha IC800 are only RM1k.

Best you follow the Dolby diagram if you aren't sure how to place your speakers - https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/s...r-setup-guides/

Also, I don't understand what's the point of that little 10" sub. It's basically a fart box and it's pretty eye opening they charge you RM1.2k for it when you could find it for about RM800 on lazada.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jun 20 2020, 12:12 AM

What are your other speakers and how big is your room?

Unfortunately, you have to also cover your dining and kitchen area because sound travels as far until it hits the next boundary and then reflects back. So since there are no walls between your kitchen, dining and living area, the next wall is basically the back of the house - assuming nothing is behind your kitchen after that.

Returning to your question, the most important speaker to amplify in a multi channel setup is the Center channel, followed by the Left and Right mains. Preferably, you'd want at least a 3 channel amp. A good one that doesn't break the bank is the Emotiva XPA 3 Gen3. If you have deeper pockets, then there's a whole slew of multi channel amps that you can choose from like Parasound, Rotel, McIntosh, and so on.

You can use pro amps from Crown too, but as far as I'm concern - it's not optimal. Reason being pro amps usually have a very high input voltage, most receivers only has 2v out from their pre-outs and even then they start clipping at around 1.5v. So buying pro amps and not being to utilize the full range of its power is kind of like a waste of money (although they are much cheaper than mainstream amps). Furthermore, pro amps usually use XLR as their inputs and your 5011 doesn't have that. You could use a converter but that means you're driving up noise level even higher.

You can build partitions using gypsum boards yes, but it'll have to be several layers. In between the layers there should be some form of insulation, like rockwool or mass loaded vinyl. If you're just standing a single piece of gypsum, it doesn't do anything and you're just creating an extra point of reflection for nothing.

I converted a bedroom in my house into a dedicated HT room using a method similar to this for the partition walls -



As for the amp question, no what I meant is that if you're going to get an external amp that would last you forever - you should get an amp that covers at least 3 channels. At least, that's my opinion because the bulk of the audio track goes to the fronts and subs.

The A500 is an okay amp, but nothing exceptional about it. I have it and I'm using it for my Atmos channels, which is more than good enough. But for mains - nothing spectacular. Would still be an upgrade over your 5011 though.
You can use this calculator to get a rough estimation of the power you need - https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html



Langsir berape tebal? Got such thing as 10 inch thick langsir ke? Bass standing wave is 65ft long.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jun 23 2020, 10:54 PM

Unfortunately, no amount of panels or different arrangement is going to deal with standing waves in a square room. The standing waves in a square room is doubled vs a rectangular room, so there's no way any kind of bass trapping will help - not even if they are 20 inch thick. More over, your room is really small so boundary gain is amplified even more.

One method which would not be as feasible (and I do not recommend either) is to construct a "fake" wall on your side walls with gypsum, insulated with rockwool or mass loaded vinly. 1 ft thick for the left and right would narrow down your room, effectively making it more like a rectangle. But then your width would be left to 7ft and I think that is quite narrow as your sides of your sofa may be very close to the walls.


However, here is what I'd suggest -




The more plausible method and what you CAN do however is employ multi subs - it will not fix all the problems but it'll be much better than simply bass trapping. There will be work to do of course, lots of measurements with REW and tinkering with EQ in order to get the best balance. Square rooms is a difficult challenge but it's not impossible to get good bass out of it.

Dual subs is probably the max you fit in here (well I'd say you could put in another behind your seat), generally a great location in a square room is in the middle point of the sidewalls.

You'll also not want to push your couch up close to the back wall otherwise you're going to have another different problem to deal with - reflections created from SBIR, speaker boundary interference response.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jul 1 2020, 05:11 PM

Bass will still travel throughout your house regardless of where you place them. The length of a wave length for 20hz is 17m long, so you do the math how long your house is? And remember, bass is omni directional so it's not just 17m from one angle.

I can't tell how much better if moving your living room setup to a dedicated bedroom will be. I don't know how your living room looks like. In my opinion and experience, the bigger the space - the better the sound but only if the bigger space has symmetry.

Your TV requirement doesn't exist and is unrealistic. There are no 75 inch TV that has HDMI 2.1 that costs RM7k+.

LG OLED C9 77" has HDMI 2.1, but it's about RM30k+/- depending on where you get it from.

There is also a Sony X90h 75" that will have HDMI 2.1 input but it hasn't release yet. I guarantee you it'll be at least RM15k.

When it comes to cables, you look at science. Not flowery language and certainly not take advice from a very specific moron on this thread since all he says is "if you don't try, you don't know". Yeah, please go and touch fire so you know it's hot please. I won't name who this person is, he's well aware of who I'm talking about.

The most important criteria in cable performance goes from resistance > insertion loss > damping factor.

The higher the gauge, the lower the resistance but the longer the cable, the higher the insertion loss as such damping factor goes up. What you need to choose is a cable of a sufficient gauge for the length you are planning to run.

Monopoles are preferred for an Atmos setup because it's object based audio. Don't be mistaken that dipoles/bipoles (you want bipoles actually) don't work, they do and they get the job done. But there are mixes in certain soundtracks where objects are supposed to be pin pointed at your side (or rear), if you use a bipole that info becomes diffused and smeared depending on the surroundings of your room. Not that monopoles aren't subject to this flaw either since there are many monopoles that has poor speaker directivity too, but generally speaking monopoles are preferred.

One thing to take note about the the 2020 Denon AVRs is that as far as pre-out goes, as long as you choose an external amp which has a gain factor of >29db and input sensitivity of 1.2v, you're very unlikely to run into issues. What ASR has shown is that there is a flaw in the Denon AVRs, but this flaw is only exhibited in rather extreme cases.

As for subs, SVS and Rythmik are great companies that makes great subs. However you're in Malaysia and therefore, SVS holds the best performance-to-price ratio on their subs. Definitely check them out, contact MaxxHT or Chong (Actcessory Shoppe) for SVS products.

You comparing the same audio track on both formats or not? Have to understand that there are different mixes between both formats.

I give you an example; The Greatest Showman OST on CD 44.1khz 16bit PCM 2.0 vs The Greatest Showman on BluRay Dolby Atmos.

I will tell you the bass on the Atmos version is much more significant, this is normal because the mastering is entirely different to how it is done on the stereo PCM 2.0 track.

I think you're getting too overwhelmed with everything. HT is a journey, you're not going to get it all right from the beginning. You also shouldn't spend all your money on the very best either, it's better to start from low and work your way up. That way you get to learn and appreciate audio.

As long as you don't get suckered into snake oil like a certain member here, you're fine.

For now, get your basis and foundation right first.
Good cables to all your sockets in the room, make sure it's appropriately gauged, use the right MCB, plan out your room for your seats and ask some acoustic treatment companies for help to place room treatment.

Yes 4mm is fine, the important thing is that you tell the electrician to at least use pure copper and not the cheap shit like CCA.
Which KEF Q did you listen to? The older Q or the recent Qx50 series? I think they're alright speakers though. But always keep in mind that how speakers sound in a demo room could often sound different in your room due to room acoustics.


As for this:



Well, there you go. Told you there's a lot of dishonesty in this industry and it's not surprising that you even got an advice like that. There is no fault in buying expensive cables if all you are into is how they look, they're jewelry just like watches. A RM200 watch isn't going to tell time any better than a RM20k watch. But if you're buying cables solely based on "improving sound", then my opinion is that you're going to end up looking like an idiot IMO.

Don't even bother with any fancy cables for now even if you're into the looks of it. You're off to a good start, so continue along.

I don't like to beat around the bush. I tell you like it is. Harsh? Well, no offense but grow a pair please.

Yeah, KEF uses their own design of coaxial drivers. The design of coax drivers allows for wide speaker off-axis response, which is what translates to a "wide sweet spot" as you heard. The downside is that the treble response can be a little too bright for some people, but you seem to enjoy that kind of sound so looks like it's a boon to you.

You may check out the Wharfedale Evo series of speakers. Been really impressed with these speakers recently, really enjoy listening to them. Pretty well priced too, not much more expensive than a full set of Qx50 KEFs.
For now, get your room done with the basics first as was already mentioned. Choose your sofa(s), choose your wall color and any theme you'd like to go with in your room, get the lights done. The room acoustics part, well without a picture of your room, it is very difficult to say where to put what and how you should sit or orient your setup. I don't even know the size of your room.




When someone says something as absurd as this:

It should tell you to stop listening to the guy. Power cables will change the sound? Yeah uh huh. Sure. Pigs will also grow wings one day, it's just not their time for evolution yet.

You may want to try Klipsch speakers too then.

Your room is on the small side, so placement of your sub is going to be critical. Will definitely need some heavy bass traps as well, pretty sure you're going to run into pretty significant room modes.


Actually I have a pair of Wharfedale Evo 4.2s. Bought it for my wife, put it in the bedroom as she wanted some good speakers for her music.

Yeah I bought my pair from Style Laser on discount few months ago during MCO.

I mean, I'm usually not a fan of demo'ing speakers in a showroom because it's practically pointless as the showroom is always going to be different to my room. The truth is, we hear more of our room than the speakers so yeah... IMO, it's sorta pointless to demo speakers in a public space.


The SB4000 and PB4000 are just rebranded 13 Ultra series, with support for the SVS app. The 13 Ultra series has been legendary for good reasons, so read up on them and you'll get the idea of how the 4000 series are like.


I think it's better you go for dual PB3000s instead. It's not that far behind a PB4000 really.

However noob you are, I'm pretty sure you can still follow simple steps right?

Just follow this video -

In my experience, more often than not - small rooms do require some form of bass trapping, either via conventional methods of large bass traps or use of multiple subs, placed properly.

You do have to measure the room first to see what is wrong though before committing to room treatment.

- Delete Double Post -

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Aug 22 2020, 10:58 PM