I have a Asus motherboard P5RD1-VM , with P4 630 3.0GHz processor , 2X512MB Kingston DDR400 and x1300 ATI graphic .

With Old Colorsit 480W PSU , My Overclock P4 can go up to 3.9GHZ ... But after i buy a brand new RM78 Colorsit Pure power 500W PSU , the computer keep restart and show "Overclock Fail , Please press F1 to run Setup or F2 to load Default "

The Clock Stables at max 3.53GHz ... I am puzzled .. i think i been cheated by the shop .

Then i go to another shop to buy a RM180 Power Logic ATRIX Real Power BTX 500W . Same thing happen and The thing gets worse ... Now only stable at max 3.45Ghz ....

I don't think ATRIX will give Lousy power output .... as it have mention the total power Peak output will be at 1KW ....

Anyway , is that dealing with power ? or any other Factor , such as overpowered PC cannot be overclocked ?

Or should i Buy the RM4++ Cooler Master 550w SLI power supply ?

I don't think my P4 with x1300 use that much of energy ....


EDIT :
Cooler Master 550W SLI bought .
New Info at :http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=306658&view=findpost&p=7720803

This post has been edited by RIGmaster: Jul 8 2006, 10:31 AM

check on the power supply stats in ur bios...see if the rails are giving stable output....

Even more stable than before . expecially the 12Volt rail in my ATRIX PSU (12V Dual Rail )

Colorsit 450watt
Vcore :1.25V (nominal should be 1.33V)
3.3V : 3.34V
5.5V : 5.03V
12V : 11.34V

ATRIX 500watt Real Power BTX
Vcore : 1.34V
3.3V : 3.34V
5.5V : 5.48V
12V : 11.94V

Just don't know why when start up , it will hang there without any BIOS post ... Then if i press restart button , it came out "CPU Overclocking Faliure "

That's what puzzle the most ..... Wierd Mobo ...

???????

Any one had this problem before ?

Or i had my Prossessor "ROSAK " due to previous Overclocking action ... I never Volt Mod or have my Load Temp > 42 celsius ...

Here "pening , Pening " already .

Problem is all the 100+ psu's you bought may not be qualified for overclocking.

Good discussion on PSU's:

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=218930

RM 78.00 can get pure power PSU ????

lol you want to complain about overclocking on budget colorsit PSUs?

the base minimum should be HEC

Anyway , i gain more overclocking power on Colorsit .... Up to 3.8Ghz man ..... P4630 3.0GHz meta stable at 3.8GHz without any problem . Some more i check the real Maximum output only 423Watt .

Yesterday , My Overclocking Power Drop to 3.3GHz on ATRIX (Real Maximum 1KW) .... And now All voltage 3% more than normal , I think is Overpowered ....

Unless someone can say ATRIX is cheating ....
Anyway , for my Computer with x1300 graphic , i think 380Watt is more than enough . Just Puzzle with 500w PSU ...

probably the psu's are having weak rails
did u see any fluctuation of voltages when idle n on full load

i doubt those psu are having good ampere ratings on each rails, esp 12v rail

u know.. i'm getting sick with so called True Power PSU for OC..
i'd also got same experiences as yours..

using True Power PSU cannot oc high..
using chapalang brand can..

if others component compromise with the True Power PSU.. why cheapo PSU i using almost 1 year not fail me once? that's totally mean not other hardware problem.. the True Power PSU is the culprit..
(it's not a reason when we paying RM500 for the PSU should have incompatiblity issue - it's just sound stupid and will baffle us forever)

if others keep telling using normal PSU will lead to damage the hardware... well i'm not going to use my rig forever... afterall it's needs to be replaced..

Try popping your old Colorsit and see how it goes.
Hmm.. My Acbel also just died on me for no reason. Cannot handle high wattage output now. Not sure what's the problem. Even worse, sleeved it.

I just bought Powerlogic PSU.. I can say im not satisfied with the performance also.. NOT suitable for OC.. normal use can..
my pc is 2.8E .. last time use my chapalang 220w also can oc till 3.06.. now oc 3.06 the pc restarted.. haiz.. any other psu to intro? dun so expensive lar..

i wonder, what true power psu did u guys bought
is it well known brand like CM, Enermax, OCZ etc ?
or juz some random brand with "true power" tag
even branded like acbel have low end n mid/high end range..
dont expect low end to perform as great as mid/high end range

u get what u pay for

Powerlogic also well known in mid-range lar..
What strange is my cap ayam psu 220w can oc but this 300w true power brand powerlogic cannot oc..

I think i have some "starting error " ...

Haha , hard to find other brand of PSU here in Sungai Petani ... Hunt high and low , only get Magnum,Colorsit ,CoolerMaster(Max430watt only) and ATRIX .... Others ... never seen one ...

Anyway The Voltage in my ATRIX PSU is extremely stable , Really only flatuate 1.32V to 1.34V on V Core and 5.08V to 5.11V in the 5Volt rail ...
Anyway still flatuate a little , cannot stop the flatuation anyway ...

Somehow , i had found that only the First Boot is very unstable , after wards , OC to 3.8GHz , no problem ... , just the First Boot ...

Anyway i had just Dissable the Enhance C1 Control , TM control , Speed step , Microcode update ... and now can run at 3.8GHz stable* . Just a problem with First Boot .

Everytime when i switch on the main power source and Push the Power on button , all things run but the screen is black ... Bios is not booting . Then i Press the Restart switch , every things seems O.K , even to 3.8GHz is no problem ... even with as many restart without unplug the main power source is o.k. ... just "hang " at the first boot . In order to Boot the first Boot , you must had 3.3GHz clocked CPU instead of 3.8GHZ ...

Just Curious ... Why like that ah ? Spped Step error ka ?
MoBo Startup error ?
Bios error ? (updated already , still the same )

Or i really need the Cooler Master 550Wat SLI suported edition to run my baby ?

i dont think u need a SLi certified psu to power up ur rig
from the problem u mention, looks like it got something to do with the saved voltage settings, probably bios prob/cold-boot issue
did u raise the voltage for the OC speed?
did google lead u to other user having same problem with mobo/bios?

----------
im not familiar with powerLogic
but even with low end acbel, CM etc, u'll have a very low A rate for 12v rail
with low A, the devices may stress up the rail till it become unstable
so, aside looking for brands when buying psu, do look the A rate for the rails. 22+A n above on 12v rail is a good one to start with [single rail psu]

This post has been edited by e-jump: Jun 29 2006, 12:46 PM

Seriously, who the heck is powerlogic anyway? Mid-range psu? Brand?

Haven't heard of them anywhere except Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. Google also can't find anything useful

What an insult to me..

WTH ? just checked.. my system all overpowered kar?

Vcore - 1.36~1.37
12V - 12.03~12.09
3.3V - 3.37
5V - 5.13
VBAT - 3.15
5VSB - 5.10

This post has been edited by Amedion: Jun 29 2006, 01:51 PM

I'm not insulting you. Don't think it as such please. Just trying to clarify things only.

I'm just curious how come there's a lot of forumers (even some supposedly senior ones) recently that claims Powerlogic as a good mid range psu and that it's better than Icute.

Is it because Powerlogic sounds more western compared to Icute?

I've been googling out of curiousity and couldn't find anything about it except that it's by a Singaporean disty Leapfrog and that it only appears in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.

It can simply be some cheap-a$$ generic china sweatshop product stuck with a label.

Could anybody help clarify?

Thanks.

Just wondering. Is the Acbel Ipower 450w a low end PSU?

I guess I'm just plain unlucky.
But still, rigmaster, what you're facing is most probably cold boot issues, where by your comp will only boot up when you restart it. As far as I know la...

Hmm.. This seriously makes me wonder... How come that chapalang can perform better.

This post has been edited by Enigmatic: Jun 29 2006, 02:36 PM

Everything's build for a price.

But at least we know who Acbel.

Nah.. jz kidding only..
Senior members in LYN claiming powerlogic is mid-range psu.. dat's y i bought it..
I think Icute is better than powerlogic also.. As from feedbacks from users..
how bout coolermaster?

I have not done any research as of now & I am not claiming that I am an expert in the field. But I can't agree less with 'bro Sinper there. Powerlogic, iCute, AVR, etc. are NOT PSU's you want to be overclocking with. They are neither stable nor reliable (from past experiences). The quality of the components & make is just not up to par with those that are MADE for power. "cheap-a$$ generic china sweatshop product" would be a crude way of putting it

Unless the above brands are re-labeled versions of DELTA or AcBel PSU's, I don't think I'll be willing to put my precious hardware at risk. And I won't recommend you guys to do it as well. Simply because it's NOT WORTH IT.

If you guys are serious about overclocking, go for a good, reliable PSU. I'm running my rig on an ancient Enlight 420W. As stable as a rock, although the 12v-line only registers 11.97v. You can hardly see any fluctuations.

Having high voltages on your lines doesn't mean you have a good PSU. It just means your PSU has high voltage rails. Stability can NOT be determined like this.

Well, that's my 2-cent's worth. Sifoos, please correct me if I'm wrong

the weird thing is.. Why some cap ayam PSU can performs better than those claimed to be mid-range psu powerlogic or icute, in term of OC?

like i said earlier in my post.. how come my cap ayam 220w dunno is true or wat power can OC till 3.06 n play games while the powerlogic which is 80w higher with 300w TRUE/ PURE power cannot... once start 3d.. pc restarts.. which means the senior members are telling lies? powerlogic is CAP ITIK?

This post has been edited by Amedion: Jun 29 2006, 02:57 PM

its a rebranded oem brand from somewhere near you, snipe. don't know who produces them, but it seems it most likely taiwan made.

Maybe spike fluactuations? Just giving a guess... I ain't any expert myself, just wanna get into the discussion and learn more.

RIGmaster, Dude...

READ THIS:

-->PSU Brands to Avoid!
-->Game Freeze

Sorry if it's TOO shocking for you... just had to bring you to the real world

Better spend a little extra on 1 GOOD PSU than throwing cash on many *ahem* PSU's

On senior member here:
- there's those who might be teenage noobies spending his ample free time reading post ,repeating them to collect postcounts while surfing friendster trying to buaya someone
- there could be those who knows what they're talking about but hardly post.

On O/C:
- Frankly, I have no freakin idea but that's the thing with o/c...it's such a mystery. Hahahaha. Seriously, my old barton and my current winchester does seem to lose its overclockability over time. Conclusion --> I dunno

On quality:
- High quality component: They ship millions and have a single digit failure rates. It'll suck if you bought one unit that fell into this failure rate. They're more expensive.

- On Ayam quality component: They ship thousands of units and have double digit failure rates. You'll untung bersih if you bought a unit that DIDN'T fall into this failure rate. They're cheaper


Wow..noob eater also here. I know lar.. I checked with the folks down south di.

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Jun 29 2006, 03:08 PM

Ok.. the box written Powerlogic is a trademark of SonicGear..

Actually got heard lots of branded psu.. Acbel , coolermaster, etc..
Too expensive for me.. i just OC extra 200mhz oni.. tot the powerlogic is enuff.. haiz.. not hardcore OC'er like 500mhz ~ 1Ghz gap..
haiz.. mana tau 200mhz also cannot.. now extra 80mhz oni.. doing 2.88ghz..

This post has been edited by Amedion: Jun 29 2006, 03:27 PM

well, a protip in getting psu's
1. get the ones with wattage suitable to ur rig. the more W the better. for future device add in
2. at least got few reviews on particular psu, n user feedbacks
3. high Ampere on each rail, esp 12v rail [where proc n devices suck power most]
4. ..
5. profit

Well, many seniors also using the PowerLogic products and claim its good for its value.. Mana tahu is CAP ITIK value..

I've said this many times before already... everything cost money wan.

Situation 1:

a) 500W psu --> $200
b) 500W psu --> $400 but proven to rock

Obviously the $200 one is not really up to job despite what the box says and how many real power, truepower bullsh1t it's got on its labels.

Alternatively... Situation 2:

a) PSU with proven track record cost --> $300
b) PSU with LED bling bling, sleeving, show off name * --> $280

= Psu B have to save cost from somewhere. In this industry, even 10cent also can kira until die wan so if there's a price gap....especially if its big. There's usually a reason why.

Wah ... Nuclear Boom , H- Bomb ..... So many post after i left for 3 hours ...
Thanks for all the info ..... But still the war is there .... Who should i thrust than ....

Ask everyone to buy Acbel , Enermax , Cooler master ..... Not everwhere got sale .. ... Even the shop sale PD Computer set only use 380watt PSU .... should we blame then for sale Good Computer with Low rating ....

Getting Expansive PSU is the answer ? How expansive is consider Expansive ... still the question ... My RM180 PSU still not expansive enough to make the produce a better PSU ..... How much a Switch Mosfet cost ? Increase wattage up to a certain level , the price do not vary much .... 20A Mosfet may only cost RM 20 or low , i can get RM5 if i buy more than a certain number from my dealer ... the whole electronic cost only a little .... Just where the Money Goes ? Cheap RM40 PSU that claim for 450Watt can be forgiven ... But RM180 PSU ....????


I quote From http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29248


Most of them never heard before ....
But still ATRX or PowerLogic or SonicGear is not in the list , and not people review it anyway ... So are they Chap ITIK ? a grade lower than Chap Ayam ones .......


Ehm, 500w PSU , even if it is Its MAX POWER RATINGS , The worst PSU would diliver at least 60% of their Power , that is approximately 300W , But what we talking is the Real Power series of Powerlogic ... (Which they claim to be max out at 1Kw for 60seconds in Maximum possible ussage for my series) .... Do not seems logic at all ...

If a PSU is in low power and high Ampere Demand , The Voltage will Surge Down , By Logic , the switching power supply will try to recorver by increase Frequency of "switch" to stable the current .... The time that The controller circuit responds is the flactuation you get ... when you load the computer suddenly and see the voltage Going Down and Up ...

Since My Processor Only 90watt ... Plus other component ... ehrm ... x1300 still not making up the full use of 500w ... i think by calculation , only 380W at the Max ...



Anyway . I had off all the Powersaving Feature of the Processor , Includes TM1 , Speed step , Enhance C1 control ... and the outcome is even better .... More Current Drawn but better outcome . Better than before i disable it ...
Off all the feature will increase the ussage of Wattage from 90W to 120W for my P4 and become extremely hot .....

(For your information , i had read some article that if your PSU is Overpowered , and Use <50% of its Continious Power Rating , The efficientcy of PSU will be very Low , and i think this is my problem , because i use much less than 50% of its power capability , the whole thing is unstable .... I think this is the Disadvantages of Switching Power Supply . Thats why the better Wattage PSU i change , the worse it become . Any advice on this please .)

The Condition is better than before , Just still there is a problem , why it can't Boot at First Boot , but can Boot only when restart button being pressed ....

I had a good reply i read just now .. He claim that My Computer may had a cold Boot issue ... Just curious , does PSU really affect Booting ? But why not when i am Gaming ? or converting Movie ... Or PRIME test .... Or even Memtest , 3DMark , Sandra ....

usually cold boot issues r caused by the bios/mobo itself, as the psu only supply power, n trip it when sudden surge[protect], nothing else.
and the psu circuitry have nothing to do/connect to the mobo.
any bios update on ur particular mobo? or try reverting to older one n test

Ehm why this comes in ?
... what's the Point Collecting Post Count ? even i have 1 billion post count , i still can't buy a Conroe Processor with it . But i have spend all the time which includes all the Stremyx cost and Electricity , which can be equal to the future Conroe price ...

Anyway , just stick to the Discussion ... No Buaya please , Just PC and PSU ....

e-Jump ...


Thats why i really want to ask all the experts here before i buy the really expensive cooler master 550W SLI ( argh ... the shop here dont give things in between ... either the worst PSU or the Best PSU ) and the ARTRIX is the 2nd best i can get so far .... here .

Anyway , i had update the Bios to the new ones but it is still the same with the old ones .. I saw the discription on Bios fix is just to fix some Graphic thinggy , nothing mention about the Power Supply ...

Anyway , i still confuse here ... Ya very confuse ... Now i am in a delima now ... Weather i should buy a x1800 Graphic or split have to buy x1600PRO + CM 550w SLI ....

i used to love powerlogic. cause the name sounds so professional. not to mention they offer the cheapest bang for bucks psu. but once i got hold of one. disaster struck. lost one HD due to power problems. this really causes a set back. more over when i asked opinions from my friends, they say Sonic Gear is good in making marketing strategy. professional names and professional packing will really caught the customer's eye. their statement on where pure power and max power will confuse most consumer into thinking the ability of the psu can be maxed out on such a low price. In short i fell for their trap.

based on experience, i personally think i-cute can do better than power logic. My MEC 300w is now officially on my friend's p4 and it's still running till today.

now i think the best way to know a good psu is to judge by its weigh if you're too noob to judge PSU. good psu are ultra heavy

Read it in context.

Oh.. Atrix quite heavy also.. Not judging by that lar..

for ur info i've tried using CM.. yes CM...
to be precise.. CM ACLX 450W.. cannot powerup my system.. weird eh?
even using 400W chap keretapi berapi is no sweat..
is it becoz of the dual rail?
haih.. these days buying PSU also base on luck..

What the hell is cap keretapi berapi?
Yeah.. really depends on luck.. It whether u get cap BAGUs or Cap ayam/itik/keretapi berapi..

NF4 memang picky on psu mar...

i'm using Acbel now...
no problem for going high htt, ram freq...
worst branded psu,tt.
it does not help in oc...

good psu not cheap...

powerlogic is a unfamous name, carry by leapfrog...
and, all the time i tell them, powerlogic, is bad...
but they keep telling me rail stable... XD

Branding mar..just like the TT fiasco last time. U'll be surprised how many ppl think TT and CM are some big time US brands.

ehrmmmm ... Powerlogic is lousy ..... Ah the only choice to get is really CoolerMaster 550W SLI .... If no , need to import Acbel from somewhere .... Why good PSU is not sale in normal shop and very very hard to find anyway ?

The shop don't Dare to import good PSU ka ... Funny la ...

Once i tell one shop to import some CM 450W real power and i may buy .... Then after one week , i go to the same place , they said 5 Sold already ... No stock , need order .... Argh ... waste my taxi fare RM20 ....

They say they don't dare to import much ... (why ? Not good business ? 5 Coolermaster PSU in one week ... each >RM200 .... ) what a lousy reason ...

But all the Cap Ayam/itik/keretaapi PSU Banyak banyak sampai store penuh .... Some already last year stock ..... Confuse with the Shop here la ....

Anyway , Any expert know how to Really Check a PSU power ? I may want to load my PSU and see the power rating ... One way i try is trying to light up a 12Volt Halogen ... All my old <400Watt Chiplak PSU cannot Light it on ... Just few above 400W ones can .... I dont dare to try in my new PSU .... (or should i try a better method ?)

Just want to OC my Computer to 4GHz ... Haha ... Should i take the risk ?

If u keen to get acbel,u can ask bombman frm bulk section. If CM or other brand, just ask mr moderno. Of coz, u got to pay for shipping, but trust me, both them are reliable and trustable.

local shop also got acbel selling...if u r interested.

Im using CM Real Power 450W ALCX and it work flawlessly. Until recently it struggle to supply enough power fo my overclocked CPU and new X1800GTO. The cheapest solution is use cap tikus PSU 350W just to power my X1800GTO but still it isnt enough for my X1800GTO.

The reason why your overclock drop is because of lousy PSU, you called that a good PSU? If you realiy want a reliable overclock buy something more expensive and better like Enermax, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling and Antec. Those are high quality and reliable PSU maker. I'll buy Enermax FMA 535W PSU if my budget allows. If LYP sold PC Power & Cooling PSU I'll buy one even though it super expensive. Remember that cheap thing no good and good thing not cheap

I believe in your system a CM Real Power 450W is enough, but if you can afford the 550W SLI is even better.

that's the point...

Yep, but I rather spending more to get a better quality PSU then settle for less expensive model so I dont have to bother to buying another one. I dont understand some people settle for something cheap say that it performs similarly, but the truth is it isnt. The price diffrence reflects its capabilities and reliability. Im a student and I dont mind saving to buy new PSU, my pocket money is RM70-RM170 a week and I save RM50-RM100 a week. RM20-RM70 to eat and everything else, no PTPTN whatsoever

lol i thought that powerlogic is the same as gtr brand from hk...

Argh ... just disable all the possible 12V fans (5 casing fans - 1 CoolerMaster 12cm ,2 Thermaltake , 1 12cm industrial grade exhaust fan , 1 VGA Fan ) , but the result still the same ... I think my Boot up problem come from Other rails ... not the 12V rails .

Anyway , anyone can explain which Rail is the most important in Overclocking ? +3.3V , +5V , +12V , -12V , -5V ?

I check across the Cooler master PSU series .... @ CM website

The Continious Power Ratings ....
CM 430W Extreme Power (+3.3V@28A , +5V@30A , +12V1@14A ,12V2@15A, -12V@0.8A , +5VSB@2.0A)

CM Igreen 430W (+3.3V@20A , +5V@15A , +12V1@14A, +12V2@13A , -12V@0.5A , +5VSB@3.0A )

CM 550W SLI real Power (+3.3V20A , +5V@25A , +12V1@12A ,+12V2@12A , +12V3@6A , -12V@1A , +5VSB@2.0A )

The ratings on the 3.3V and 5V getting lower and lower ? Which should i buy then ? Is CM 550W SLI cheating ?

Confusing .... which rail is important .. Not the Overall Watts ...

Thats why i need to know which is best for my P4 630 with x1300 Graphic ....

Fortron, PC & Cooling (whatever) or Seasonic.

Colorsit? Atrix?

both sounded like cap ayam to me....

wAit, thread starter...
btw, im curious here, hav u done ur stability test after u oc ur entire pc?
includin all ur o/cin results - 3.3/3.5/3.8 ghz?

ACBEL LCD 500W ( 3.3v@26A 5v@28A 12V1@18A 12v2@21A 12v3@15A -12v@0.8A -5v@2A )

Moreover, stable rails.Very little flux during prime and superpi (+-0.03 is the max).

thread starter.. purchase here > http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=308634

basically, the procs, hardisk n few devices use 12v rail
rams usually use 3.3v rails [epox uses 5v rail]
as for high end gc, it uses 12v rail too

for single rail psu's, try looking for ones with 12v rail w/ 24+Ampere
for multirails, at least 18A on any 12v rail

ya la i mean noob. cause normally good psu have bigger capacitors and larger and heavier components. not to mention bigger heat sinks inside. atrik heavy cause of the case? or the fan?.

CM uses the term real power. i heard from one of my friend who is using this kind of psu saying its not as good as true power psu.

here soem review
http://www.motherboards.org/articles/guides/1487_3.html

Ah stealing post from satanhead2003 Hope dont mind .....
He he , interest in this Baby .....

Ah , Mine flatuate About 0.08V for 12v & 5V ... No wonder ATRIX become Cap Ayam/Itik/Keretapi/Tikus .... whatever cap la ..

Yesterday lagi worst , flatuation more than 5% ... really sweat sweat ... ehm ... is that bad .. ATRIX ?


Only 118W on load ???? Can't believe it ...
What PC Spec you use oh ?
then my ATRIX 500w is "too Enough ?" or what .... Any ideas ....

IDLE ( 3.3v@4A 5v@5A 12V1@4A 12v2@0A 12v3@0A ) ???

On LOAD ( 3.3v@4A 5v@5A 12V1@4A 12v2@0A 12v3@0A ) ???

Like use nothing ... But why my 500W atrix cannot support .... Something really foundamentally wrong here ..... Unless Atrix is a 100W PSU with 500W casing ... Imposible ma... Where is the QC ? (Quality Check )


Nice feature ... Asus PC probe cant do like this ... haha ... Is that include in the Acbel LCD Package ?


e-jump


High End Graphic ? I thought x1300 is a low end graphic ... haha , dont use that much , do they ?
One 80GB hard disk ... ehm not that much power needed ...
My P4 630 only use 110W estimated at full load .... Just the problem here ... Why not jam when fulll load to the max (whatever software , sissandra , prime , 3dmark ....)? and only have some Boot up problem ?
From the above Acbel Power Usage data .... ehm ....12V rail need 24++ Ampere ?i think 10A is enough ....

Well, my spec as in siggy.



It's actually not the value used. Its's percentage of Ampere used.

e.g.
12v1 = 4, meaning, 4% of 12v1 is used, which translate, 4 / 100 x 18A = 0.72A is used.

Unbelieve able .. Only few percent used (<10%)... some more is Opty with a 7900 Graphic ..... So this makes me really really confuse ....

That mean my ATRIX is a 100W real Power in a 500W Casing that claim that can Max up to 1000W ? What business trick is this ......

Then I should go for 200W Acbel PSU instead .... but hard to find la ... All >380W ... what i got to do with all those wattage ... Using x1300 and not planing to get x1900 ..... in the near future .

Well, just think abt "Future Upgrades" dude. If u're willing to spend for another hundred when u upgrade ur pc, then, go for the lowest avvailable. But, do remember, future proc n gfx will consume more and more power. As for mine, I'm lucky enough to get 38W TDP opteron. 79GT is 90nm die which consume less power than its predecessor. which is around 51w idle. and 85w max full load.

i don't think so leh...maybe can get low pure power lo..

I dont want future upgrades anymore ... haha , drive me crazy only ...
Always udgrades and upgrades ..... until i change 4 processor , 5 mobo , 6 PSU , 6 DDR , 3 Graphic card , 2 casing from , 5 HSF from last july to today ....

Lazy with the upgrades now ... because the computer i now already more powerful than i intended . I just want to design graphic using flash and play My simcity 4 and some Power point ... The same thing i do since 2002 . Nothing more ..

Future computer is totally diffrent spec lo ... I plan for a 5 (Gigabyte server linked) Conroe Quad Core Compter + Gigabyte quardro graphic , to design my Graphic and movie in the future . By that time , all things are cheap cheap ...

Just to sattle the PSU problem first here ... Just think whether i should use the same amount of money to Buy a Acbel LCD PSU ( if really PSU is the problem) or a X1600PRO ICeQ Graphic card (if PSU is not a problem ) ...... Anyway , my x1300 450mhz core Overclock to 702mhz Core is already more than enough for my basic application . Just plan if i use X1600 , i can get cooler GPU as the Graphic cooler of IceQ is better than those CoolerMaster Cool Viva VGA heat sink .

So it is still the problem ... ATRIX ? Acbel ? Already spend too much on Computer stuff .... Even Cheap sale all the things also cannot get enough money to buy same new things .... ( I get the currently P4630 Processor because i had trade in 2 MoBo , 1 s478 CelD and 1 ATI 9225 Graphic )

Haha , come back after 1 hour of PSU test ... not actually test , just observations ...

RM 78.00 can get pure power PSU ????
No you can only get Real Power ... Not Pure Power .... Actually all the Cap cap capalang Brand PSU is not so "simply" put a Wattage on the casinng and that's it ... It normally said 400W MAX @ 25celcius or so .... That means under controled condition , the maximum possible Wattage output may be true .... ( unless they want to get Sue by someone .... business strategy ) The thing may be true only under certain condition .. You know la ... How to keep PSU at 25Celcius at all times in Malaysia .... Unless Face to air cond la ... PSU very Temperature Peaky one ... Too high or too low , the wattage produce is diffrent ... Silicon Mosfet Performance may Vary ... I had notice those Ciplak PSU had very narrow ... 0 celcius to 40 celcius ... This is just to prevent people from said the PSU not UP to Standard .... But Good brand Like Acbel had working temp from -20 to 70 celcius (Silicon only in danger after 80Celcius ...) They dare to said that because they can go future ...
One more thing as long as their Multimeter Reads 400W at all possible perfect condition ... They can proudly Promote that their PSU is 400W .. aha Business strategy ... But for Good brand , their 400w may mean always above the minimum par of 400W regardless of temp .. unless extreme temp ...

Ah ... Mosfet Mosfet Mosfet ... crucial component in PSU ... anyway this dont cost much .... You can get 12V@50A if you want for only RM20 per mosfet ... But one thing that is important is the Voltage controller ... It control the switching of the Mosfet (hence called Switching PSU ) and it is very expensive if you get a Good PSU .. This High speed Switch controller determine your stability ... The faster the responds over the negative feedback , the more stable the current ... Acbel had a good Controller ... expecially the LCD version ... which vertually connected to the computer USB for better control of voltage flatuation .

Flatuation of ATRIX is terrible on the long term when sudden load is induced not when the load is already induced .....
I observe this when i open the voltage Sensor for one hour and see what it flatuate .... Yes in short time you see nothing flatuate much ... But you put it as sensing once per second for 1 hour .. you will notice someting .... Dangerous indeed ... ATRIX can actually go as low as 1.26V and as High as 3.39V while the nominal is 3.33V ... this account to more than 5% of flatuation of the VCore .... this goes to the 12V rail as well .... (thats while it had unstable Voltage regulation ... a power Mosfet but poor poor regulation ) No wonder it connot boot at the begining ... The voltage cannot be stablise in a sudden rise in demand ... anyway , if you say it can't run at REAL POWER 500W as stated .. you may be wrong ... If you give it enough time , It will Burst to the full power .... Thats why , after suceessful boot at first boot , you can actually stress the CPU without risking underpower ... (PRIME , SANDRA ... all the stress test can't trip this baby )

So , Not "the weight" that resemble the Power of PSU ... "ATRIX is very heavy la , heavy than those Ciplak one " but it is true for certain extent as the Powerful the Mosfet , the bigger the Heatsink ... but if you had high performance heatsink , then it will be smaller .... ( and those High performance 3 rail PSU have very smaller heat sink as inside is too crowed )

More research going on tonite until i had get my Acbel 550W...

good stuff..
seems u know your thing..
how bout some pics of the test event, or maybe u can try follow how reviewers online test, rate n compare between psu's

Wow.... just like Owen Hargreaves. From zero to hero. Well, i guess, u just answered ur initial question on the 1st post.LoL

Now you know why PSUs are expensive

do u confirm that ur oc stable last time?
priming stable?

another thg shd be motherboard i guess...
not really suit for oc?

All OC is stable at max 3.8 GHZ with FSB 1Kmhz (with my celeron D and P4 630) , higher than that , consider not stable ....
Anyway , My maximum record is at 3.9GHz , but not really stable ... can play game but those loaded ones really can jam in middle ..

Anyway , at 3.8GHz , Priming is nothing much harm to my system ... Once prime for one hour and i lazy to prime anymore ( Once play Game >14hour one go nothing happen , so assume to be stable - haha eating on the computer table .. what a mess- ) ... I rather spent time watching anime than looking at computer slow slow doing prime .

Haha , Anyway , Prime only apply continous load on the systemand see how long it can be stable ... ATRIX have no problem at that .. since the continious current is quite stable , only when the Boot up , the current is not stable , expecially the first boot ..... Therefore i categorise PRIME is continious System testing , and component cooling testing , and data bus cloging testing , system memory refresh testing , and arithmatic processing testing .... cannot test PSU refreshing testing ...
Cheap PSU had slow "voltage loss Recovery"

So , thats why , i say Priming had no effect on my system ... haha ...
Anyway , just cannot overclock futher ... can't break the 4.0GHz Barrier without Volt moding ... any one have idea how to volt mod ? there is no options can be found in my MOBO BIOS ....
My MOBO , Asus P5RD1-VM .... anyone oc it before ?

I tried Clock Gen before ... but cannot detect the system clock .... cannot acess also ..... Funny readings comming out like current Processor running at 6.4GHz , 300MHz PCI .... how to clock oh ... move abit already jam when apply .

Hehe , Planing to volt mad my Mobo after i get my Acbel PSU ... Since Conroe is in the future line , this P4 can Play Play already ...

this board consider low end mobo
dun expect it really can go for high oc...
mayb change board to oc better...

Ehm ... have better choice ?
I prefer ATX MOBO ...not the micro atx one ....

Anyway , more result soon .. wait to get new mobo and see the PSU , MOBO and OC war ... ah , my 2X512MB DDR400 need to sale .... since Good MOBO uses DDR2 .... Just bought them for 5weeks .... Ah spent allot last few month ...

can try to check for those using nF4 SLi intel edition chipset mobo...
Biostar T series not bad for oc...

RIGmaster

it's better for u stop OC la.. 3.8 to 4 or 4.5ghz not a big different i think..
unless u can achieve 5ghz..
if u manage to get good upgrade (psu, mobo, etc) is it worth to pay? better get higher clock cpu then.. and oc more...

but psu thingy.. still baffle me.. haih...

wahlauehh..Oc til 5GHz?you did b4 ar??

Not much diffrent on Preformance .... it may be ... but >1K MHz FSB ... i craze for that
if can get higher in FSB , the internal Data Transfer will be extremely fast .... Anyway , i oc a 2.66GHz celeron D to 3.9GHz before and the performance is outperform my P4 630 3.0GHz in many areas like Pi calculation .... If i can get this P4 higher ... haha .... fast fast ..... can do lots of Animation work which needs allot of CPU rendering ....
Of course , my target is beat the Extreme series .... The fun of OC ... who cares the cost it may take ....

Look back ... ah ! i had buy 5 MoBo , 4 Processor , 6DDR RAM , 6 PSU , 2 casing , 12 Case Fans , 2 VGA HSF , 5 Proc HSF ......... left my bank account empty .... but it is fun .... OC , OC , OIC .

Yeahhh.... that's the spirit.... let the spirit be with u

This post has been edited by satanhead2003: Jul 5 2006, 02:43 PM

lol oc sampai pokai..

So many words....headache....didn't read.... but the Force flows strong in you.

Most of all...u totally tar pau'ed me in terms of hardware purchases.

Mine was...over past 3 years.

3 mobos, 3 processors, 4GB of rams, 4 psu's, 3 casings, countless fans, 6 vga HSFs, ~10 cpu HSF (lost count)...and get this... 8 VGA's!!!!

Haha , Exactly next month will be my One year aniverasary in Kedah ....
My OC experience will be one year then ...

If i can buy a new rig by this month (1MOBO , 2 RAM , 1VGA ,1PSU and 1HDD )...

Then I have a record of changing 6 MoBo , 4 Processor , 8 RAM , 7 PSU , 2 casing , 12 Case Fans , 2 VGA HSF , 5 Proc HSF and 4 VGA for my RIG in one year ... yeppie !!!

Ah .. Like System Test Pulak .... Haha , experience of using is better than anything . Anyway , Keep me Updated LYN !!! More Intel-ATi RIG to go ...

Next Plan ... Conroe quard Core and Intel 975 chipset Mobo .....
Ah ... Never try AMD before , may be i will try afterthat .

Rigmaster is pro ..
You check his post.. All so many words.. makes people lazy to read and ignore the thread liao..

this thread seems not really that active anymore, but i would just like to ask something(related to the PSU issue eventhough rigmaster already got his answers).

Is there any possibility that Powerlogic is actually Colorsit, just different brand. As we see, Colorsit too has an Atrix Casing which Powerlogic has.
Btw, answering a question i forgotten by whom on this thread regarding the weight of the powerlogic casing after Amedion stated it was heavy, the Atrix 500 PSU actually has a plastic casing, if i have not mistaken. Does this really add weight to the PSU itself?

Btw, i haven't seen anyone talk about Tagan here, any views on Tagan PSU?

Tagan's are a Topower brand.

Very decent stuffs just that I didn't really like the new ones with the "switchable" single or split rail....sounds very suspicious.

what can i said for past few month, 3 mobo, more than 6 amd64 include opteron used, countless fan, chipset heatsink..., 3 cpu heatsink...
more than 8 pair of 512mb ram, and 1 pair 1024mb ram...
one casing that plug in 2 xtreme delta fan, full speed will like a vacuum machine...

This post has been edited by Westley: Jul 8 2006, 02:53 AM

HERE I COME AGAIN ...

But something More Interesting .....


Cooler Master Real Power 550W SLi(RS-550-ACLY) Same Performance as PowerLogic ATRIX 500W ?

I just Buy Cooler Master Real Power 550W SLi(RS-550-ACLY) yesterday and try ... found out that the Overclocking is the same ...

I summarise my problem again :
1) Cannot Boot up properly at first boot if OC >3.4GHz unless Press reset Button , the second boot is sucessful .
2) Can OC to 3.8GHz if you had second boot running .
3) 3.4GHz and 3.8GHz mention are all Meta stable state .... No effect on priming or Sandra stressing .
4)3.95GHz is the Maximum possible OC with all stock Voltage .

The Question is :
Why the first boot is lousy with a COLORSit , ATRIX and CM PSU ?

The Possible answer by now so far :
1) PSU not stable (what about CM ?)
2) MoBo not good ( Stable in Priming but why not stable in booting ?)
3) Bios Cold Boot ( need heat up ?)
4) Ampere Not enough ( I see the CM550WSLI Power meter .. maximum ussage never touch 200W )
5)RAM not stable ( ah , swap many times liaw )

So far the CM550WSLI is just goyang kaki .... Flatuation like ATRIX , In CM550WSLI only have 12V rail at 11.91V rather than 11.60V in ATRIX ....

Power Meter in CM550WSLI .... like not moving la ... just goyang goyang a little because uses less than 200W ... most of the time 90W only .... Loading games and OS , about 140W max ..... funny .... A stable system cannot boot up ?

Ah .... Bankrupt already for PSU ....
2 COLORSit PSU RM60 each , 1 ATRIX PSU of RM180 and 1 CM550WSLI PSU of RM475 ....
With all the money , can buy a ATI x1600 Graphic card to OC lo .

Anyideas ? Looks like ATRIX is not so bad after all ...

hmm.. cold boot...
if it goes like this, no point to get a higher end psu..
im thinking its the mobo/bios now..
btw, whats the A rate for the CM's 12v rails ?
on heavy load, which rail fluctuate the most? 12v or 3.3v ?

Actually the most flatuation is 1.33V ... The VCore ... as low as 1.26V and as high as 1.38V ..... Same result between ATRIX and CM .
12V and 3.3V not much flatuate but the 12V rail is higher abit in CM @11.91V

hmm... vcore fluctuate most...
how hot is the power phase mosfets(its near where u plug in the 20/24pin latch] when on load? any heatsink on em?
cooling it of will help stabilize the fluctuation of either vcore or 12v [i forgot]
abang sniper got comment?