Lowering the car helps. Decrease in drag. Increase in acceleration, handling and fuel efficiency.. and most importantly VERY minimized body roll. I hated the body roll with the stock springs, feels like being thrown out of the car at high speed turns. Lol.
Oh, nitrogen filled tires are really nice to drive. Very light too.
Lowering the car helps. Decrease in drag. Increase in acceleration, handling and fuel efficiency.. and most importantly VERY minimized body roll. I hated the body roll with the stock springs, feels like being thrown out of the car at high speed turns. Lol.
Oh, nitrogen filled tires are really nice to drive. Very light too.
Well you can try, but it must be done properly though. The shop i went to the removed the tire from the rim to clear out the water vapor before filling it with nitrogen.
QUOTE(knine @ Feb 2 2014, 08:52 AM)
How would you rate ride comfort compared to stock bro?any difficulties maneuvering car park ramps n bumps?
I have small problems with ramps cause it scrapes the rubber part under the bumper but so far bumps are fine. Ride comfort is depending on you. Now my ride is quite bumpy on uneven road, but very minimal body roll during turns.
This post has been edited by Kikifish: Feb 2 2014, 11:28 AM
Well you can try, but it must be done properly though. The shop i went to the removed the tire from the rim to clear out the water vapor before filling it with nitrogen. I have small problems with ramps cause it scrapes the rubber part under the bumper but so far bumps are fine. Ride comfort is depending on you. Now my ride is quite bumpy on uneven road, but very minimal body roll during turns.
but does it really makes any different??? , because once u mount the tyre to the rim, it will contain air inside, unless you using the enkei famous dual valve stems rim,so the nitrogen can fully go in while the oxygen can fully drain
How would you rate ride comfort compared to stock bro?any difficulties maneuvering car park ramps n bumps?
Comfort will not be good once u go change the springs, especially lowering ones since the spring and absorber travel will be shorter. There are no "comfort" lowering springs available anywhere as it would cause the car to bottom-out during driving. If you are concerned about comfort, keep it stock, it is the best compromise at this moment. Cheers...
depends on which warranty you are talking about. there are different warranties, and different ways of voiding them. got to interview the SC's for this piece of info.
Was about to get the Manual, initially the SA told me got.. today tell me don't have.. Very disappointed now.. So, quick question.. Should I get the CVT? :\
Was about to get the Manual, initially the SA told me got.. today tell me don't have.. Very disappointed now.. So, quick question.. Should I get the CVT? :\
Was about to get the Manual, initially the SA told me got.. today tell me don't have.. Very disappointed now.. So, quick question.. Should I get the CVT? :\
Its a very personal question, it all depends on individual. If you can live with manual on a day to day basis, manual is definitely a better choice IMHO, as the manual gearbox for the CRZ is as slick as it can get, and has a great feel to it. However if you are stuck in a jam most of the time, manual gearbox can be frustrating to live with, and the auto can be a left leg saver.... The other item to consider if you are planning for mods, especially on power mods, as most aftermarket stuff are made for manual CRZ. Very limited amount of mods are made for auto CRZ, and some are not even available for auto box (such as the Idle-Stop Canceller). If you are going for mods, CRZ manual cars are the best and can cope better with more power and high torque from the engine (forced induction mods). If you are going this path, it is either you import the manual CRZ via Honda Malaysia (gonna be very expensive), or get a used ZF1 manual CRZ which can be bought at a good bargain now. Hope this helps!