the 2013 has a bit more power and a few little extra gimmicks in side. and you get the s+ feature which allows you to "boost" the car for a short while with all the power from the electric motor. its not a turbo but you get a little kick. choosing between the 2013 vs pre facelift, i would go for the FL version.

VW, personally, from all the horror stories on both the gear box and especially the Service centers... i would say away from anything "Very Worrisome".

I have an FL CVT, 1.5yrs old.... drives great, no issues. no regrets getting the car but it could do with another 10-15hp or so for the midrange. the car goes from Zero to 50-60KMH very quickly, but after that, the rate of acceleration starts to taper. its still quick to 100KMH but lacks the omphhh of a FD2 in the midrange.

For compatibility, you may need to cut into one of the flange of either the JS Racing pipe, or the original pipe, and weld the correct flange in order to fit JS Racing and the ori pipes together, as I don't think the flange will fit with each other. I can't confirm as I have not used JS Racing stuff before unfortunately.
As for power, you may make some power since you have removed the cat converter in both section 1 & 2, but note that your exhaust gasses may be restricted by the smaller sized ori pipes at the back sections. I do not know what is the impact of that to the overall power of the car, but you may make some power. Why don't you go full JS Racing?

what engine oil do you use?

I do not fully comprehend the scenario as I wasn't present but to need S+ to overtake a lancer is something I do not understand unless the lancer has been modded a lil' here and there too..

our car kinda eat lancer 2.0 and FD 2.0 for breakfast, lunch and dinner..well by my experience using sports mode only as I do not have S+..

thanks for the input guys

@ ilyas, which specific recaros are you looking at?

@nitrous, those replicas hks, how much does it cost? I need the power, minus the sound in the cabin, so most likely need to do noise insulation, but by doing insulation car weight would increase... sigh...

@civic, im surprised u can achieve tat mileage, im getting lower day by day, are you using 97?

im running on esso 97, i think currently its about 13.8km/l on normal mode mostly

i bought the car used, from my understanding, i believe the car is still fully stock, servicing was just done when i bought the car at ard 13k mileage, whereas the prior service was done ard 11k mileage

hahah, like tat one ka
wait a minute , urs is manual is it?

it it possible to be on full time sports mode, or we need to select it everytime we start the car

IINM there is 2 cats on the Z? are there any emission sensors located at the cat area? if you de-cat, does the emission warning come on?

i would decat but not at the expense of an annoying check engine emission warning on the screen
lol there's no way anything short of a mugen super/turbo crz can ever touch an evo. even then it would be difficult.

fc will never be their concern. I'm sure

if nitrous willing to share, half a day i also willing to take time to understand
if na setup can gain another 20 more horse for me, im also ok, then no need go for supercharge in the future

SR4 many fakes nowadays? Safe bet why dont you get those used recaros from lets say DC 5? and get the rails for crz

i remember reading here before, to increase NA hp is much more expensive than charging
every one horse tambah is about rm 1k
so technically plus 20 hp, = rm 20k, of cos NA u can part by part, so not so ex
charging with everything in, maybe about 12-15k, at least also 40 hp more 

a mechanic friend of mine did recommend an ECU reflash (RM2k), local stainless steel full system exhaust (RM2k) and drop in air filter if I wanted a better mid range n top end without too much tinkering with the engine and electronics.

is this takeda really worth it? im thinking of just getting a drop in filter, all these while, my cars all have been using drop in replacement filter

cat delete only 550 ar? local brand ka?

I think for our cars its better to go specialists shop that are familiar with our cars. Like Avantgarde and JC. They've done lots of crz and that just gives us a peace of mind. Thats just my opinion

was he behind you all the time? could be taking advantage of draft and overtake when you run out of batt juice

actually...satria neo was never really a slow car.. 1.6 comes with 110bhp and 148Nm torque..it also can b considered "light" and with some minor mods..this car is pretty zippy...

http://paultan.org/2006/06/16/proton-satri...nd-16-in-depth/

well either that or the fella squeezing the shit out of his car to overtake you..

Time to Supercharge your car? 

Buy and pasang, and then make us proud ...   Make sure got video...
Frankly, I would still go for Rotrex SC rather than turbo or Sprintex. Major engineering and tuning companies like HKS, HPD and Jackson are using the same design, thus the design should be pretty sound/solid and should be good in terms of parts availability. 50-70 ponies should not be a problem to obtain....

Long post below on my opinion...

Personally, I do not think it will shorten the lifespan of the IMA battery, both engines and IMA battery are not directly linked and both discharge/charge is controlled by the IMA ECU. This is not your standard 12V battery that we are talking about, which is charged by the alternator powered by the crank pulley. IMA ECU will cut off charging of that battery when a certain limit is reached. The IMA will also protect the discharging of the battery if your speed or RPM is too high, even on stock cars the IMA will do it (you will notice that battery does not assist at high rpm). If the battery gets too hot (happened in mine a few times), the IMA will also retard battery assist, causing your car to lose power.
By the way, what is top speed warning light? As far as I know, there are no speed warning or cuts for our CRZ (you'd notice some folks did in excess of 200kmh on the streets), thus not sure what your mechanic meant by that. However, I do know that there is a speed sensor inside the gearbox itself, which measures the velocity of the gearshafts to allow appropriate charging of the IMA battery. As far as I know, if you change your final drive, it can cause the velocity measurements inside your gearbox to go abit wonky, and IMA charging to go a bit nuts. Is this what he meant? You should be safe provided you leave your final drive alone, it only affect your car if you have changed the final drive or some LSDs.

If in doubt, try asking Avantgarde... they have done tons of SC CRZ.... a most recent SC monster just rolled out of the garage recently. 
Yes, provided the kit has been taken care during installation and dismantling. Superchargers have extremely tight tolerance, hence their high price, but they are usually manufactured using good quality materials to withstand abuse such as heat and knocks.
But I still won't take up sprintex kits, I trust HKS with their design and engineering... so will stick back to centrifugal design kits, just my personal taste (worried about heat issue on engine).
Yes they do. They use Rotrex superchargers, comes with intercooler and stainless steel piping (custom fabricate), and Hondata to control everything. Think they still use Synapse bypass valve too.... As usual, they use only Torco oils for their cars. Call them for more details... if you need their number, PM me...

All the best guys!