most japanese seller charges standard shipping fee according to their EMS (or SAL) service.

for EMS... this is the most common calculation is

- a base charge, which is packaging weight (some seller use 300g or 500g for small packets)
- charge for item weight, for every 100g increment

you can refer to EMS shipment fee table for the actual cost.

as for SAL.... it really varies.

MA chassis seems to be pretty versatile for beginners. That'd be Heat Edge and Blast Arrow.

If you can get one locally for less than RM55, then go for it. Not worth the waiting time ordering from HLJ. Both models are pretty common.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Dec 16 2013, 06:01 PM

HLJ minimum 1100 yen with EMS for a total order less than 300g I think
Can't say the same for 1990, I think they charge for packaging weight too.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Dec 18 2013, 10:51 AM

not sure if you even read my post properly?

Anybody knows if this rim



... is the same one as in the Avante V Special?



or do they have different shade with the V Special actually in deep solid black color and the one with red tires are more greyish?

like in pictures the color can be tricky so I just want to make sure.

I have the V Special, but missing the rims only (also came without shafts and gears, but no biggie)

a quick question

i'm using MA chassis + atomic + stock height (original wheels with superhard tires)

my car flies a little bit after a slope that follows with a corner. if possible i don't want to make my car heavier yet, so should i just adjust the brake clearance first? i'm using the AR brake set

Our track here in Miri.
Yesterday we had a technical race tournament, but I totally forgot to take picture of the whole layout
The basic layout was similar only that we moved a few slopes and made more continuous jumps, and also added jump limiter too.

My car already set up but didn't manage to race because I had gastric in the morning



And it was jam packed here yesterday... this is only from inside the shop. Outside, there was a very long queue still waiting. Contestants from Bintulu, Brunei and Miri.



This post has been edited by soulfly: Dec 23 2013, 05:07 PM

The double jumps in the 1st photo was moved to a different side on the 2nd one, can't be seen in the 2nd photo

atomic tune stock brass pinion causes my counter gear teeth to wear out. anybody experiencing the same? i think i want to change to carbon pinions instead.

ajak org main dalam bilik...main tamiya ker main xxxxxx?

prior to this i was using light dash pro with carbon pinions and car sounds smooth enough.
now since the tech competition i was using atomic pro and soon after the gear noise is kinda loud, and i found that my counter gear teeths are wearing out. so i assume that the noise was because the gears are not making proper contact, idk.

brass pinion gear too hard to pull out, and pinion puller is just expensive

You can try look at Super XX Evo.1 to get a clue on how to set up the basic layout. Not necessarily need the exact parts, but roughly similar should be good

I have a few sets of this model coming next week

i didn't know if you were asking in terms of noob perspective, but you can use the basic layout like the roller sizes, the style/type of plates/stays to use, damper placements.

if you were asking about more techie stuff, it's really hard to explain because you at least need a basic setup, and test on the track and see if it suits your local track.

it's really hard to say or suggest what to do apart from the basic layout. i learned from many previous otai, all of them said the same thing... there's no particular formula. One person may do different set up and still get the same result as others. Different track layout may require different setup altogether.

If you're asking for a specific setup, then I can't answer to that of course. But my friend who uses SXX for quite a while only use the chassis for semi-tech stuffs, aluminium rollers with rubbers and high front stabilizing poles. more dampers on the front than rear to make the nose dive after a jump (well, basically very similar with most, if not all rear motor chassis).

This post has been edited by soulfly: Dec 26 2013, 09:59 AM

oh my friend is not an otai... i was referring to otais in the forums.

toa cheng barang aku bila nak sampai ni... minggu depan aku outstation, nak pesan orang rumah kalau2 barang datang.

if you happen to go to a shop that sells tamiya motor (or from underground traders), you can check behind the packaging. there will be rpm range, torque load and power consumption ratings.
sometimes website don't list the specs properly, but you'll find them if you google... although I find confusing because different sites says different things (due to older packaging writes different specs compare to newer ones)

kena tahan, but then lepas sebab invoice supplier kasi declare rendah. pegawai tu salah tengok, dan sebab kotak besar


kat sana berapa RM kena tax?
kat sini lebih RM200 gerenti kena 10%
sebab ada dengar kat area2 lain boleh pulak limit RM500.

I noticed that there are some normal edition kits (18xxx or 19xxx) come with plated or clear bodies. Are these random?

I know some kits are labelled with stickers on the box (silver plated, gold plated, black plated), but I've also seen those without labels too.

biasanya pagi pagi lagi poslaju dah call cakap barang kat kastam

ni masih menunggu jawapan pasal some normal model kits kadang2 boleh pulak dapat clear body.... Tamiya memang buat camtu secara random ke?

contoh....





ada petanda tak?

biasa kalau silver plated atau gold plated dia ada letak sticker kat luar kotak kan? kalau clear mcm mana? gambar kat atas tu tak ada petanda pun.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Dec 28 2013, 08:27 PM

what does LC stands for?

i use roller angle adjuster, and it's really effective when racing on tech circuit. i get more corner stability especially after a jump or going uphill. without roller angle adjuster, usually it will fly off the track.