Hi bro, at least IRR 75% or TSER around 50% is good enough if u don't have much budget to go for highest product. But you can only use this method to select film in those Genuine USA brand like Raytech, Vkool, 3M etc. Cuz you get what you pay for.

I suggest not to compare the spec only to select film between brands, cuz in the market a lot of specs provided by the tinted shop are not accurate. You can visit tinted shop to see product demo and feel the heat rejection of the film personally. If possible, request them to use the solar meter (BTU meter) to test the film. BTU meter can show how much heat can reduce by window film. The lower reading has higher rejection

This post has been edited by Lord Gitsy: Mar 15 2017, 11:25 PM

Hi bro, to test the tint heat rejection capability, you can use BTU meter as below video:

Hi bro, having your car tinted got a lot of benefits
1. Fade Reduction
2. UV Ray Blockage
3. Solar Heat Rejection
4. Shattered Glass Protection
5. Privacy and Security

Hi bro, most of the window films in the market have JPJ guarantee now, but don't guarantee for Puspakom. It's because Puspakom don't allow window film during inspection or they need very clear tinted only can pass the inspection. Normally higher VLT % of window film has low heat rejection's performance. Sometimes it's depend on your luck on Puspakom inspection too. There is a forumer on previous page passed his Puspakom inspection by using Raytech window film

Can bro, actually the wording is a sticker. You can request not to stick it after tinting

Hi bro,

1) keep side window untouched, only tint front & back for better heat rejection tint. <--if wanna save money, may try this, if still feel hot then add double layer on side windows.

2) you can tint front & back for better heat rejection film (cuz most of the heat coming in through front windscreen and rear screen), then apply a medium range solar film for second layer on side window. But the warranty of the tinted will void and it is not JPJ compliance if do double layer.

3) tear off every thing and retint. In this scenario, your risk is it may spoil your rear demister when remove the old tint. And you may spent money to retint but still receive low quality product. So u need to do more studies about how to chose a good quality film.

Thanks

Hi bro, for your info, Raytech brand is founded from Malaysia so you can seen most videos from Malaysia. Raytech window films are exclusively manufactured in the United States at our world-class facility film manufacturer, Commonwealth Laminating and Coating Inc, in Martinsville, Virginia. So you can ensure the product quality. You can find our company details on our USA manufacturer's website too

When google for info, you can find a video which is comparison of heat rejection between few Genuine USA brand top range products :

Hi bro, there are 2 types of bubbles on the window film.

a) Dirt Bubbles - Normally will not disappear, can claim workmanship warranty and need retint.

b) Air Bubbles - Normally will disappear within 3-4 days for SOLAR film.
- Normally will disappear for SAFETY film after few months.

Last advice, if you not sure what kind of bubble is it, and the bubble still there after 1 week, it is advice to drive back the car to the tinting shop and ask for warranty claim. Normally, they will fix back for you

Hi bro, you can refer below image for the latest JPJ regulation

In VLT (Visual light transmission) %, the lower % of VLT is darker. So 30/50 is darker than 70/80.

You can refer below image :

Yes, you should refer to TSER instead of IRR. TSER has included IRR, UVR and VLT %. So it will be more accurate to indicate the heat resistance of a package. Raytech suggest customer can drop by to Raytech branch to see the live demonstration and feel the heat resistance personally

Hi, normally need to use small knife and chemical to clean the adhesive. You can send your car to any tinted shop to remove the tint adhesive. Labor cost will be around 50-100

Normally the labor cost will include in the new tinted price, tinted shop will offer you a combined price. It will be more worthy than just only remove the adhesive

Hi bro, my own car is tinted with Raytech RX and never have this problem. I think maybe is just tinted and the water haven't fully dried out. You can wait one to two weeks and observe it. If the problem still occurs, you can send your car back to our workshop to check.

In the same time, pls try to use other phone to Waze and check. thanks

Hi, there are 2 possibilities of your current problem. First is low quality problem. Second is low VLT of the tint, darker tint may affect your driving vision at night or raining time. What's the VLT of your current tint?

This post has been edited by Lord Gitsy: Jun 27 2017, 10:36 PM

I don't think the nano rain coating would help if it's darkness problem. You can do a simple testing first. You ask few of your friends sit your car during night time and see. Maybe your eye is not comfortable with VLT 50% tint at night time. The VLT 50% tint for windscreen is not compliance with JPJ rules also

This post has been edited by Lord Gitsy: Jun 28 2017, 10:50 PM

First you need to understand there is 3 ray in natural sun-light. In another word, you are expose to these 3 ray in the same time when you walking under the sun.

a) Visible light (Light which can be seen by human eye)
b) Infra-Red (Invisible)
c) Ultra-Violet (Invisible)

All these 3 rays contribute to Solar Energy. Infra-Red (54%), UV (3%) and Visible Light (43%). Total 100%.


If the film spec IRR90% means 90% of solar energy in Infra-Red Region is reject away, thus it is not represent the whole solar energy. The more accurate film performance is refer to TSER, Total Solar Energy Rejection consist of the solar energy rejection of IR + UV + Visible Light.

Somehow, the TSER value is always low for automobile film. Due to VLT is high, more visible light can pass through, means more energy contain in visible light can pass through. In the other hand, when VLT is low, if the film is darker, the TSER is much higher.

Example :
Raytech RX IRR95%, TSER 62%

Infact, TSER value is more accurate compare to IRR value. Somehow, we normally refer to IRR value is good enough, because VLT value in Malaysia in order to compliant with JPJ rules and regulations must be higher than 50% for side and back window.

The only problem is that the IRR value you getting is genuine or not.

1st, You have to know which brand film product is origin made from USA or Japan.
2nd, The spec which you can find in the internet can be trusted.
3rd, The genuine product from one brand normally got it trademark logo on the film.
4th, If that tinting shop provide meter testing is even better to make you confident.

Thanks

Yes, but for your info, the 3 rays contribute to Solar Energy. Infra-Red (54%), UV (3%) and Visible Light (43%). VLT is one of ray contribute to Solar Energy. The higher VLT film has lower heat rejection. It means more light can be passed through the window and you will feel more heat. In window film market, no matter how good IRR we offered to customer, but if the VLT is still on higher side, customer still can feel the hot inside the car.

Normally JPJ can give tolerance within 5% during roadblock, but Puspakom is strict on the reading. So far now don't have tinted shop can guarantee customer on Puspakom inspection. You can read back the thread, there has forumer here passed the puspakom inspection with tinted film. Can ask them which Puspakom to visit

Thanks for your review. Hope you can enjoy your ride with it. We have Raytech Q70 and Ultra 70 which have higher heat rejection that you can try next time

True. VLT 90% is really very bad in heat rejection. Cuz some of the original windscreen's VLT is around 90% d