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 Water marks on the wall - why and what to do?

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Untitled2
post Dec 10 2013, 11:56 PM

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Indeed, most handyman kind of job is all sub standard in Malaysia, which is why we are having a lot of roof leaking, pipe leaking, tank leaking, aircond water leaking. lol. (Electrical wiring also same =.=")

Even for car repair, really have doubts about their expertise.. but too bad Malaysia doesn't have any licenses required for car mechanics to protect road users. Nothing happen still okay. If anything were to happen on the road, it could be fatal..
Many car repairs probably does damage to a new car much more than everyone knows.. Especially when cars these days are very much electronics, normal self taught mechanics would not have a clue on whats happening..
stevie8
post Dec 11 2013, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(Untitled2 @ Dec 10 2013, 11:56 PM)
Indeed, most handyman kind of job is all sub standard in Malaysia, which is why we are having a lot of roof leaking, pipe leaking, tank leaking, aircond water leaking.  lol. (Electrical wiring also same =.=")

Even for car repair, really have doubts about their expertise.. but too bad Malaysia doesn't have any licenses required for car mechanics to protect road users. Nothing happen still okay. If anything were to happen on the road, it could be fatal..
Many car repairs probably does damage to a new car much more than everyone knows.. Especially when cars these days are very much electronics, normal self taught mechanics would not have a clue on whats happening..
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Ya about car industry, this is where some people are jumping on our misery for new business opportunities. They now do not allow import of original used parts called potong with the excuse it is not road worthy but allow sale of new non-original parts made in Malaysia, Japan, Thailand whcih are sub-standard. I rather use the potong parts when ori is too expensive than those sub-standard new parts. And soon they want to outlaw old cars. Some already went to the extend of doing clash test to convince us saying old cars are not safe from their clash test. Of course new cars come with newer safety measure better than yesterday technology. It is all excuses to support new cars sale.
TSboyan
post Dec 11 2013, 01:08 PM

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Assuming I want to go for DIY mode.. For the hacking the wall.. what do you guys suggest?

Unfortunately, all I have is the standard drill.

stevie8
post Dec 12 2013, 12:03 AM

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First you need a chisel and a hammer. Chisel with flat sharp edge as in the pic or a sharp end like a pencil.
Attached Image

You may also need a circular saw to make hacking easy but you must know how to handle it.
Attached Image

The picture you see is sawing wood, change to concrete blade saw.

Circular saw spin very fast and you must have steady hands and practice. Besides, as said earlier if you do not know how to use you might accidentally cut wires and rebar. To avoid that this is how you should use it:

1. draw two parallel lines the channel you want to hack.

2. Adjust the depth. You must not go deep but bit by bit. the first depth you estimate the depth of the plastering. To do that you hack using chisel in between the 2 lines middle of the channel and review the bricks. From here you know how thick is the plaster. With this shallow depth you should not have cut the rebar or the white pvc tube that concealed the wires. But when you can guess the wiring line with all precaution you shoiuld not saw that areas but use chisel instead for that small areas.

3. Saw the 2 lines and followed with another at the middle along the two lines and then a few more between them.

4. with 4 or five cut lines you can now use chisel and hammer and dig a shallow channel.

5. Next with chisel and hammer hack as deep as you can at the middle of the hacked channel.

6. Now you got a deeper middle channel and still find no rebar or wire, means you can adjust your circular saw blade deeper as the mid deep channel. Now, saw the two lines with this depth and repeat 2,3,4 and 5 till you get your desired depth.

See, so easy.

There is no use for drill except for digging out of house toward the end.

Cheers.
stevie8
post Dec 12 2013, 01:10 AM

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Precaution using circular saw on concrete:

1. Concrete powder fly as you cut, so no fan, no aircond. Open all windows and doors. Cover furniture, tv, computers as far as kitchen. Close all room doors except toilet. Still you will find that your whole house is covered with white powder it is no use closing all windows and doors so open it to allow as mcuh powder to fly out of house.

2. Wear goggles or safety glasses, dust mask is a must.

3. Use both hands and ready for kick back. To avoid kick back go slow and patient. moving slowly cut from bottom to top. A circular saw will almost always kick straight back. Watch your body position. Keep slightly to the side, and never keep a hand behind the blade. Never turn corner, it will sure kick back.

4. Be aware of the location of any power cords, keeping them behind the path of the cut at all times.

5. Do not work once you are tired or sleepy. Get rest. and take a break in between cuts. Also to allow flying powder to settle so that you can see properly. Rest or break outside of the house for fresh clean air.

6. Stand on steady ground or solid support.

7. Clear your other tools in the work areas, keep the tools away like the pencil, ruler, pipe etc or leave it a side at a corner like the hammer, chisel.


dillonyap
post Dec 14 2013, 11:18 PM

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you can use sica, alternatively you may use one of our product and mix it into the cement wet mix and patch the area. this will enable your cement to be water repellent.

http://www.nano-g.com.my/products/nanophos...urfapore-c.html

pm me for details
stevie8
post Dec 15 2013, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(dillonyap @ Dec 14 2013, 11:18 PM)
you can use sica, alternatively you may use one of our product and mix it into the cement wet mix and patch the area. this will enable your cement to be water repellent.

http://www.nano-g.com.my/products/nanophos...urfapore-c.html

pm me for details
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can it be used on old concrete like roof tiles?
tiensong
post Dec 15 2013, 12:31 AM

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Hi, just to share my experience here...my living hall also facing the same problem because neighbour house is higher than mine too...I already tried more than 3 waterproof paints but none of them success...so, I can conclude that paint can't prevent the water from coming in through cement...you need to stop the water first before it reach and wet your cement wall...so, don't waste your time to try any waterproof paint and repaint your wall...

Like other member did mentioned, one of the solution to hide the mark is using tiles....but like what you said, very wired for a living hall....so, I also don't choose this solution...

Another solution is, hack all the plaster/cement out, apply waterproofing, and re-cement/plaster the wall....but I already moved in and don't feel like want to do hacking any more, so I do not choose this solution too...

What I do is I try to put some wall decoration to cover as much as water marks I can.....
dillonyap
post Dec 15 2013, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Dec 15 2013, 12:12 AM)
can it be used on old concrete like roof tiles?
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Any cementitious based, you can use Surfapore C. I suggest you to do thorough cleaning of the old roof tiles first.

dillonyap
post Dec 15 2013, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Dec 15 2013, 12:31 AM)
Hi, just to share my experience here...my living hall also facing the same problem because neighbour house is higher than mine too...I already tried more than 3 waterproof paints but none of them success...so, I can conclude that paint can't prevent the water from coming in through cement...you need to stop the water first before it reach and wet your cement wall...so, don't waste your time to try any waterproof paint and repaint your wall...

Like other member did mentioned, one of the solution to hide the mark is using tiles....but like what you said, very wired for a living hall....so, I also don't choose this solution...

Another solution is, hack all the plaster/cement out, apply waterproofing, and re-cement/plaster the wall....but I already moved in and don't feel like want to do hacking any more, so I do not choose this solution too...

What I do is I try to put some wall decoration to cover as much as water marks I can.....
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waterproof paint is just a PAINT, not effective in blocking moisture from the negative side. it has limited capabilities

stevie8
post Dec 16 2013, 01:05 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Dec 15 2013, 12:31 AM)
Hi, just to share my experience here...my living hall also facing the same problem because neighbour house is higher than mine too...I already tried more than 3 waterproof paints but none of them success...so, I can conclude that paint can't prevent the water from coming in through cement...you need to stop the water first before it reach and wet your cement wall...so, don't waste your time to try any waterproof paint and repaint your wall...

Like other member did mentioned, one of the solution to hide the mark is using tiles....but like what you said, very wired for a living hall....so, I also don't choose this solution...

Another solution is, hack all the plaster/cement out, apply waterproofing, and re-cement/plaster the wall....but I already moved in and don't feel like want to do hacking any more, so I do not choose this solution too...

What I do is I try to put some wall decoration to cover as much as water marks I can.....
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How long ago?

After some years it will stop as the water dries underneath unless new water source is introduced like underground broken pipe or broken drain next to it allowing rain water to seep into the ground more than usual. Under normal circumstances the front of house have drain that drain roof rain water to big monsoon rain outside the house.These drains could be yours but if it is your neighbor's then you got problem if they choose not to repair the drain rclxub.gif big headache for you.

Also when concrete aged it get harden and gain strength and at the same time its shrink and its capillaries getting smaller and waterproofing improved. When the water marks are not getting worse, it is time to repaint those areas.
stevie8
post Dec 16 2013, 01:18 AM

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Maybe applying Surfapore C kaw kaw could help with first removing the paint layer. That reduces water vapor coming through and condense at the paint layer. This is for Surfapore people to comment and give assurance.
dillonyap
post Dec 16 2013, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Dec 16 2013, 01:18 AM)
Maybe applying Surfapore C kaw kaw could help with first removing the paint layer. That reduces water vapor coming through and condense at the paint layer. This is for Surfapore people to comment and give assurance.
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I would rather mix it into the cement and patch it back on the wall.


tmchong
post Dec 16 2013, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(dillonyap @ Dec 15 2013, 11:29 PM)
waterproof paint is just a PAINT, not effective in blocking moisture from the negative side. it has limited capabilities
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Agreed. There is no effective solution unless you can waterproof the 'wet side'.
You can keep painting but the paint will not hold.
stevie8
post Dec 16 2013, 07:15 PM

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QUOTE(dillonyap @ Dec 16 2013, 02:27 PM)
I would rather mix it into the cement and patch it back on the wall.
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That will require a lot of your product like few liter and your product is not cheap.
geniuz
post Jun 22 2014, 12:07 AM

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My wall also got so called damp rising and i dont know how to overcome this matter since i already moves to my new house. Any solution sifus?
geniuz
post Oct 2 2015, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Dec 4 2013, 01:25 AM)
This is a very common problem. There are plenty of water. It is not termite. It is the other way round. Water attract termite.

You cannot get rid of the water as you do not know where the source of water from. If no new source of water present then it will dry soon and the problem solved by itself due to capillary action and evaporation.

If it is due to when no polythene sheet laid below concrete slab then it should happen to all areas and not only the isolated areas.

The easy and cost effective way is to waterproof the wall up to 1 foot above the highest water mark. When the source of water is continue feeding that area and if you only waterproof up to the problem areas then new patches will appear above the waterproof areas as by nature accumulative water need cycle. meaning it has to go somewhere by capillary action and evaporation. By waterproofing higher hopefully instead of water getting up higher it goes else where by gravity like to your neighbor soil and find a way out somewhere else. Gravity is your friend, so waterproof higher and do the job once.
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How to do a waterproof job? Is there any product to use and how to apply it?
Slash21
post Feb 15 2016, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(boyan @ Dec 5 2013, 05:18 PM)
Yup I agree. But I'm not too sure how flat is too flat. Any ideas?

If you look at the picture again (probably need to look closely), it is not really flat. You can see at the 'difference' in height from the start of the 'horizontal' pipe all the way to when it exits the living hall to the grassy patch.

user posted image
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I see you did not cover your floor during reno, did you get a lot of scratches? I am getting loads on mine and i believe we have the same tiles, 2x2 ft cream colored glossy ones. Now I am trying to find someone to grind and polish it.
arasu3
post Oct 20 2017, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(boyan @ Dec 11 2013, 01:08 PM)
Assuming I want to go for DIY mode.. For the hacking the wall.. what do you guys suggest?

Unfortunately, all I have is the standard drill.
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Hi,

Did you ever managed to solve this issue?
EneriW
post Jan 12 2018, 12:03 PM

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Hi,

I have my sliding door (facing the car porch) removed and build a wall, with a single glass panel on top (glass panel about about 6'X2' only). No aircon in the living room, fan only.

I found that there are water marks on the 'new wall', below the glass panel. It could not be leaking water from the top, as there are no water marks above the glass panel. I checked the other side of the wall too and all's good.

Anyone knows what's the problem and how to solve it?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by EneriW: Jan 12 2018, 12:04 PM

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