if you're using hand sponge, it's almost impossible to mess things up unless you use excessive force (which you shouldn't when it comes to detailing)

for gold class quik wax, i assume it's spray? carnauba based and then spray wax, it's not gonna last long i'd reckon. will need further comments from users who used it, i personally have not.

can consider going for ultimate paste/liquid waxes for a start, that one really last especially if you have a car that sits indoors mainly

compound is compounding, waxing is waxing, both are not really related so any brand/preference will do.

paste type wax *traditionally typically* last longer, and you would have less waste especially if you wax by hand compared to liquid which tends to get soak into the sponge.

try this:
after applying paste wax, use your qw as a "topper"

that way you get better/more even shine (paste wax can be uneven especially if you applied too thick of a layer/not buffed off properly) and the quik wax will serve as a "shield" on your existing wax which will prolong it's durability

Finally got my Opti-Seal and HydrO2 from a friend who got back from the US - I have no idea why but the Opti-Seals we get here are all cloudy which ain't good... but this one came in clear as water. As for HydrO2, the GF's car will be put to the test

Also, anyone knows where to get nice brushes for washing wheels and wheel spokes?

good luck bro
if possible show ur work

If ur budget allow add 1 more bottle of AIO will be much more better.. Cheers!

Currently im using Duragloss 501 and CarLack68' systematic care..very recomended..mayb u can ask sifus here for others products..

I am no expert, just some guessing,
Might be stone chipped spot on your paint that caught all of the UC and paste wax residue inside

Anybody want to take a part?

1 bottle rm70 , 4 bottle rm180

worth for 4 bottle its become rm45 per bottle

Now got 2 empty slot because i'm booking 2 slot...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQSAhc-2h-E

your Almera still sparking why always polish ?
UC is more aggressive than Osren AIO

I was thinking the same too as at the moment im using carnauba wax and with our current weather and looking at the beading on my car now (almost a week my car protected by the wax), i highly doubt the wax could last more than a month on my car...

Correct me if im wrong..but to apply the aio monthly to strip off the current wax prior to apply a new 1 should be safe right?

Well, for starters, I'm no Sifu, just another guy who does his own cars and some.

Conventional wax are not permanent coatings, permanent coatings are stuff like the OptiCoat, OptiGuard, Cquartz, anything that, forms a permanent bond onto the surface, and crystallizes(from liquid turns to glass/solid) if you leave it in open air.

Well, it's always recommended to clay as a form of old wax removal and also to remove any contaminants before a new coat of wax/sealant. Also, well, we won't want to seal the contaminants along onto our paint work when we apply the new layer of wax/sealant, right? But, if your car was recently clayed and waxed/sealed(maybe say about 2-3 months? Actually it's hard to judge other than to feel the surface after a wash), then, a cleaner wax is good enough to remove old layer and apply a new layer.

This one rm66 for 500ml..

http://www.menzerna.com/en/company/news/ne...s%5Bmonth%5D=11

now im trying tp get best price if group buy...

You're using too much.....

use only small amounts.

ps: i started out with TW hard shell, and i STILL have at least have half a can haven't finish
planning to detail my iswara as i haven't washed it for more than half a year

8 year old car that hasn't been polished...clear coat should still be there. It won't wear out over time, but it *could* deteriorate (oxidize, peel, etc.) to the point where the only way you can get it shiny again is to repaint. I'm quite confident, under normal conditions (not exposed to extremely harsh environment or treatment), you'd still be able to 'restore' the paint to better conditions.

Now, to the steps.

- wash - right
- clay - still on track
- wash - depends...if you're using some sort of quick detailer for clay lube you might not need to wash again. A simple wipe down again with the same quick detailer could do the job. But if you're using shampoo mix as clay lube, then you'd need to wash the car down again.
- Ultimate compound using RB - still on track but with what pad? And errr....I hope you know what you're doing. If use with a compounding pad (or wool pad), it would be a very aggressive combination and you'd bee cutting a lot of the clear coat. Just be careful and check/inspect regularly.

Thanks for reminding me on the pad. I was unaware on this. Was thinking that to compound > need to use compounding pad..

So far you have the right idea there. But after compounding with UC there would most probably be compounding marks as UC//RB is quite an aggressive combo. You should carefully inspect for compounding marks, buffer trails, holograms (google them, plenty of pictures/illustrations on how they look like) and if you see them, the next step is to 'step down' to a less aggressive combo (change to a milder polish like Ultimate Polish with a less aggresive pad like a polishing/finishing pad) to remove those.

Afterwards, you'd most probably would need to wash the car again to remove all the polishing dust, then only you do a wipe-down with IPA or the like. Thoroughly inspect the car again for anything that you missed or any area you missed out. If all are in order, next step is to apply the coating.

Will washing the car after polishing will create mar on the paint? Noted on the IPA step 

I haven't use Carlack68 products before. But, from their descriptions, SC is an AIO and LLS is a sealant. If you want to use the SC it should be after using a finishing polish and BEFORE applying the coating, but you'd still need to do a thorough wipe-down to remove the protection that it left behind. Personally, I think it's a little redundant. And LLS should go after the coating.

I'm quite confused on this. From my understanding coating suppose to protect the paint thus if i coat after using wax it will flush out together with wax within certain time just like what other wax does. Correct me if i'm wrong on this. 

Depending on what type of coating you plan to use, you might or might not need to put on the LLS on. For this, you'd need to check with the seller or anybody else who have experience with Permanon or Opti Coat whether it's safe or not to put on a sealant on top. Personally, if SC could effect a coating, I don't think that coating is even worth getting...

Am planning to have a repellant effect + glossy paint on her car. Will check further on the coating thingy with the seller. Thanks a lot KrisMas for your clarification.