clear coat sure got, if no it'll look something like this:


if you're OCD like me, i did a wash > clay > wash > clay > water rinse again > dry
full steps/write up:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66119939
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66131474
2nd/last detailing on the car:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/VR5EqWv1Vv5
last wash:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/btvYH9QfMDo
some poison:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/ciQPg7F3XNY

IPA after UC is optional (considering modern day compounds/polishing), i do it because OCD lel
i personally haven't go into coating because i'm not that good of a DIY person, and coating is "irreversible"

so i'm sticking with waxes/sealant for the time being.

i doubt carlack sc would be stripping much of the coating (if any, because chances are you'll be stripping surface defects/contaminants instead), it is an AIO product after all.

oh wait wrong poison links:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/bjd5jDhgxLE
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/QEJZJQeVaz6

Washing the car *could* create marring, drying with a cloth would even me more risky. That's why proper washing tools, methods and techniques are utmost important for detailing fanatics.

Proper coating would require clean and BARE paint to properly bind and stick to the paint. Polishing residue, wax, sealant, etc. will impede this process and the coating would either won't last long or won't bind at all. Coatings are longer lasting than wax/sealant, you want to put something more durable at the bottom and the less durable on top.

The more defects you remove the glossier the paint would be. Anything else (like coating, wax, sealant, glaze, etc.) would only give a little boost to the shine/gloss.

very effective that you can easily wipe off with a cloth

not so much after you wet/soak it for prolonged period as the effectiveness would be reduced.

and i'm not sure on the product durability, initially when it was effective, it would squeak a lot when you sit on the seats
maybe i should do a follow up test some time around hehe

Review from  member who have tested osren paint restorer

" Hey bro, I just finished play around with the OSREN AIO polish.
Works pretty good on my car I would say hehe
Cuts more than metawax and yet finishes pretty decent IMO.
I tried on both DA & RB.
I would say the RB with foam white pad works pretty well for a one step polish. Managed to cut majority of the swirl marks and yet finishes hologram free for my car.
Speed used was in between 600 - 1400 rpm.
Black foam pad can finish better but lesser cut; so may not be the best choice for one step task. But again, it is really dependent on the type of paint and amount of correction that u r looking for, bro. "

Krismas thanks for spending the time to meet up! apologies again for delaying it for so long

btw,
crash: https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/Znx2WgQbbUW

shit cc5:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/TPcDSWcNBGq
then again:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/cj2qpZfx6rH

random:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/P9QEV3KePLH
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/2Q8oZqXKQTD

again thanks to sifu krismas:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/ZspzHfWcCta more detailing stuff acquired: 3x grit guards, 3 Bilt Hamber clay bars, some microfiber cloths and applicator pads

krismas selling it...

Finally found this bucket....hahahaha...



Ngam2 for grit guard...



My collection still some not use yet..

from sifu Krismas

CORRECTIONS....I'm not 'selling' it per se ah....just helping out a friend (who unfortunately had to close shop) to unload some of his stuffs....  

I'm in Shah Alam. If there's any upcoming TT I'll post it up. Cheerio....

[attachmentid=3988891]

You could try checking out DeWalt DWP849X too. Brand new are priced at around RM650.

Dewalt 894X is M14.

Both sizes can get the right backing plate in Malaysia although M14 should be more "plug and play" as the EU machines all use the M14 size.

We used to rethread the 5/8" plates from US into M16 back then. (At least, for me, that's what I did since I have access to a lathe)

https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/UNxzGMEcwMe Last car wash was february, it's approaching June now, water sheeting/beading is still going strong XD

posted previously already

FYI: i don't go with ONR too, and i have a karcher power washer

and i am certain that dirt is suspended beneath because during the the first few rinse when the bucket/water is still clear enough, you can see the dirt sink and no matter how you stir with the grit guards blocking the dirt just stay beneath

AFTER you're done and when you're pouring out the water, you'll realize how dirty the the water is but surprisingly it never get back on your mitts

i have answered, and if you're not convinced, google will help answer:
https://www.google.com.my/search?q=how+does..._sm=93&ie=UTF-8
"how does grit guard work"

http://www.gritguard.com/faqs/
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/produc...html#post236193

and a video test!

Guys, forget about the washing already. With or without the grit guard, proper washing methods/techniques can minimize wash-induced marring...any method would do...there's no RIGHT or WRONG here...just personal preferences.

The grit guard does work for me, but it's just ONE OUT OF THE MANY items that can be use to REDUCE the risks....that's all. Once you get the washing method right, DON'T FORGET that other thing that is even riskier than washing - DRYING. That is the time when the paint surface is semi-wet/semi-dry with ZERO lubrication other than the water (or whatever left of it) itself.

grit guard - i own one but i dont feel anything so special

washing shampoo - i'm using Zaino, Dodo Juice, Modesta, Willson, Zymol, Polish Angel

washing sponge - Dodo juice supernatural, Zaino lambswool wash mitt

drying towel - Duragloss Plush MicroFiber Drying Towel, cobra guzzler HD waffle weave, cobra guzzler waffler weave