QUOTE(mirage81 @ Jan 28 2014, 11:40 AM)
you could use the paste for larger/easier panels, then the modern ultimate wax for everything and then layer on top of the paste Car Care and Detailing [V3], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread
Car Care and Detailing [V3], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread
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Jan 28 2014, 12:07 PM
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#81
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Jan 28 2014, 03:27 PM
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#82
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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Jan 28 2014, 02:31 PM) Never seen Rupes polishes before but from your description, it *could* be a water based polish and also a fast working one. You could try spritzing a couple of light mist of distilled water onto the pad before starting the pass and on each fresh 'top up'. I see thanks for the tips When I'm using the Bigfoot with the more 'modern' polishes like the Sonax and M101, I tend to do the first pass at speed 1, spreading the product at a quicker motion, then bump the speed straight to 5, slowed my motion to work the panel for a couple of passes then down to 4 and very lightly remove those whitish polish haze. If you think the Notty lambswool is plush, you should have seen the Wookie's Fist....just imagine twice as big and twice as thick....hahaha... And why in the world you want to use the lambswool with detergent or dishwashing soap? I don't think that's a good idea...they're natural lambswool and leather...you might degrade it. Lambswools wash mitt require some 'special' care since, like I said, they're natural....like leather (well...they are leather with the fur intact anyway). Rinse off any shampoo as thoroughly as practically possible so that there's minimum traces of any surfactant left. GENTLY wring (more like squeezing) most of the water out then pat the rest of the access water off. Turn it inside out (with the leather facing out) and you'd need to dry it under shade cuz direct sunlight or excessive heat would crack and destroy it...again, just like leather....they need to dry slowly. There would be some 'wool' coming off during the first few uses...but that's normal. Lucky I haven't wash my wash mitt yet. Will do as advised |
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Jan 28 2014, 04:50 PM
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#83
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QUOTE(kww @ Jan 28 2014, 04:43 PM) Meg do have wax for white paint, never try it before. this does blur the definition of synthetic and natural/carnauba waxes lolSo far I have been using 2 kind of spray waxes, I like the ease of use, ~15min can wax the whole car; Optimum car wax and Duragloss aquawax. Optimum car wax suppose to be carnauba base while DG suppose to be sythetic wax. But I found DG give more dept, gloss, shines and slickness compare to ocw, this is more obvious on my wife's solid red car, my solid white is less obvious. But ocw last much longer than DG, easily 2x. If more rain, DG will wear off even faster, ocw can outlast by 3x. My cars are all park outdoor. |
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Jan 29 2014, 03:10 AM
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#84
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Krismas
stone chip? can't seem to correct it off seems to create marring/hazing as the product lessens... http://twitpic.com/dtojwc well minus the marring /hazing part, the Meguiar M101 does a way better job at correction lol http://twitpic.com/dtok0a the defect I posted earlier was roughly reduced in half http://twitpic.com/dtok8q the rupes medium gel compound (green) seems like a waste of time compared to the m101... however the marring/hazing is an issue; Caused by lack of product/buff burns or something? |
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Jan 29 2014, 10:32 AM
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#85
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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Jan 29 2014, 09:26 AM) Stone chip....don't waste your time. haha ok, hopefully the filler/glaze will cover it up No experience with Rupes polishes so can't say anything. But with the M101, a little haze is understandable as it is a compound after all. 2nd step with a milder combo is *always* required when using this level of aggressive combination, even with the Bigfoot. didn't hit the base coat, only clear coat damage as the 101 can somewhat correct it. btw, this morning i inspect, the haze is gone WTF i IPA'd it thinking it's just compound oil/residue, however it isn't coming off. this morning it's magically gone? wtf lol |
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Jan 29 2014, 10:33 AM
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#86
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Jan 30 2014, 01:19 PM
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#87
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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Jan 30 2014, 12:35 PM) minor feedback on the LHR21: definitely not as balanced as the 15 is, 1 handed operation is much more difficult though doable (had to because inspira roof is HUGE, basically widest i've washed/detailed so far lol that i require a stool to extend my height/reach surprisingly, speed 1/2 is much more unstable/vibration than speed 3/4... didn't feel safe on 5 and it's a little too noisy for late night detailing anyways so didn't really try. the m101 is cutting enough as it is so don't think i really need heh considering it's insanely huge orbital radius, it's pretty much worthless on curvy/small panels. thankfully, the inspira/lancer design is very flat/boxy lol, not too many curves etc to deal with, the rest i'll just do it by hand i guess... pros: as mentioned, the orbital radius is so huge, i can just cover larger panels/sections at one given time less topping up products haha |
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Jan 30 2014, 02:31 PM
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#88
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Jan 30 2014, 03:41 PM
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#89
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QUOTE(windskill @ Jan 30 2014, 03:30 PM) Okay. Will ask the seller soon. Just not sure I should pick for M101 or M105. I have LC foam pad and a DA. Which product is more recommended actually? I know M105 is more like a universal compound that suits for various types of pads as well as for DA or rotary. For M101, it's more geared towards foam pad. i just started compounding/using DA/orbital so eh can't really comment much. all the pads i gotten are foam too so no issue with the m101Happy CNY to all! |
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Jan 30 2014, 11:55 PM
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#90
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Jan 31 2014, 11:24 AM
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#91
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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Jan 31 2014, 07:20 AM) Menzerna has the VOC compliant formulation for their export to the US and sold there. But some of the US folks still prefer to order straight frm Europe and willing to pay a slightly higher price for the non-VOC compliant version. That would say something... that means harmful chemicals = best results! (just like msg, they are harmful to your body yet adding them into food = btw EVERYTHING from Rupes suck except for the machine itself lol... the provided gel compounds pale in comparison to m101 and ultimate polish the mf cloth is hopeless in buffing off... (even the mr clean i bought ages ago for cheap outperforms it :/ ) and the lake country/buff and shine is even more stable/balanced (less vibration basically) despite not having a friggin aiming hole to properly align the pad to the machine wow. lol. anyways some pictures... in the process of making mirrors XD http://twitpic.com/dtvt1x polishing and compound done, applied and buffed off poorboy's "black hole" glaze /pre wax. Omg the shine/mirror http://twitpic.com/dtw9vr it is unfortunate, however i can't achieve the results i desired and there are STILL plentiful of defects on the car (LOADS of white paint drops, what the f***?) that i didn't have enough time to work with else i'd miss chinese new year (in fact family already going back ipoh late regardless, still a GOOD experience and hopefully the next time i do this it won't take a whole damn week (granted, the weekdays i only got like 5-6 hours at most to work on the car) for a detailing project hehe. also shout out to the poorboy's black hole. took a leap of faith on it (then again, after the loads of explanation/Q&A from shinecars/Jeremy, i'm pretty convinced already even though i haven't decided on the car's color ROFL) and my god it works wonders! (well i got a blackened/darkened meguiar's foam pad now... rofl) now if you'd excuse me, gotta catch some power z's and then after waking up = ipoh trip to present this "somewhat show car like not so new car new car" |
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Feb 1 2014, 01:48 PM
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#92
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QUOTE(acefreakz @ Jan 31 2014, 03:45 PM) it isn't harder to get the mirror-like finish per say, more like if you're OCD black (or white) cars will give you a heart attack when minor defects are revealed easily in my case, what the f*** white paint particles :/ anyways forgot to post this before i went Ipoh: Hmm would list the products used, however too long for Twitter, will just have a more detailed write up later http://twitpic.com/dtyq79 Final shot on my completed detailing project for the new Proton Inspira products used (hopefully i don't miss out anything): - Karcher pressure washer - Rupes bigfoot - LOTS of microfiber cloths - buff and shine black finishing pad - lake country ultra fine finishing blue pad - meguiar's hand application foam pads - lots of IPA (for in between compounding/polishing sessions) - meguiar's m101/gold class wash shampoo/mirror glaze mild clay(C2000)/final inspection as lube/ultimate polish/endurance tire gel/headlamp protector/ultimate liquid wax/ultimate quik wax - osren clay cloth/MFs/gritguard system - poorboy's black hole (http://www.shinecars.com.sg/detailing-store/glaze/poorboy-s-black-hole-16oz.html) DAMN GOOD for black car or rather, proton's tranquility black that isn't fully black at all (because whoever designed the metalic color coding is retarded) my meguiar's foam applicator that's yellow in color is now slightly black/darkened lol. - turtle wax f21 shampoo for the clay cloth's lube - notty lambswool wash mitt (awesome stuff lol)/notty miracle drier (lol damn huge, a little bigger and it can be a bath towel for humans XD) - turtlewax and sonax glass cleaner sonax way better lol, no leftover residue to clean up and it evaporates easier too. but eh need to finish the turtle anyways - darlie toothpaste lol - rain x - car pro's iron x (didn't really scrub/rub/clean the tires, just iron x > pressure washer lol) project duration spanned from Saturday until Friday Saturday wash > Sunday wash + quick clay cloth + iron x on wheels > Monday wash + megs mirror glaze mild clay + toothpaste polishing on glass + compounding Tuesday and Wednesday and Thursday are generally compounding/polishing works (imho hardest and most tiring step) Thursday + Friday = finishing glaze > wax. did glass cleaning and afterwards rain x too Friday = final touches, buffing off the wax/rain x after baking them in hot sunny weather (whoever in the weather department up there must be touched by my efforts haha) at night after i woke up (no sleep straight work just so i can get the LSPs done before i crash out from exhaustion) i finally understood what people meant by ultimate liquid wax being hard to buff off/streaks, it's the carrier oils and what not in their liquid formula. interestingly enough, after application and baking the wax gets fully "melted" into the surface and the only thing left is the oily residue/streaks, i didn't really need to buff them off, just use ultimate quik wax and top up which also serves as a buffing off (you'll need to quite a number of passes with moderate pressure to get rid of the oil streaks though) for a great lasting finish hopefully i don't miss out any steps, feel free to ask me anything/feedback as i'm still in the learning process so i'd appreciate the tips and pointers |
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Feb 1 2014, 01:51 PM
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#93
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QUOTE(shaniandras2787 @ Feb 1 2014, 01:29 AM) guys, if you have the budget, considering the essentials from meguiar's (user/beginner friendly, albeit more expensive though)needs some heads up here. just got myself a 4 layer polish on my crystal pearl black honda city last week and i was informed that waxing once every 2 to 3 weeks is recommended however i have never done it myself and sending it to detailing centers is very taxing on my wallet. i intend to do it myself from now on but i need some advice on what is the suitable type of wax and is there any specific method that i need to employ? i saw the detailers that did my 4 layer polish apply the wax, it's seemed simply, just apply and the wipe off? for methods, do a search on this thread or look up meguiars' site for video guides or even youtube videos QUOTE(life09 @ Feb 1 2014, 02:13 AM) Any1 here did plasti dip on your car body or rims?Thinking of trying to plasti dip my rims,but how do you clean them?Normal wash? normal wash would do, they are generally rubber based paint anyways, so whatever that treats/deal with rubber good should be applicable. |
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Feb 1 2014, 02:49 PM
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#94
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QUOTE(acefreakz @ Feb 1 2014, 02:13 PM) yo bro Quazacolt appreciate the details 1) as I separated my session across few days, in addition to compound /polishing dusts, I prefer to clean up the surface before proceed so I can spot defects easier and not mistaken it for before mentioned dusts /dirt. Not to mention as its cny, neighbors setting off fireworks /crackers really dirty up the car and I don't want to wash it up again 1. why need IPA between compounding / polishing 2. what's the darlie toothpaste for? lol 3. i noticed u listed only 'finishing' pads, mm thought u used some cutting pads, interested to know which color u used Thanks! 2) mild polishing on the glass surface, better rain x adhesion 3) for cutting /correction, I stuck with the Bigfoot provided pads (2 of them, mild and fine (green /yellow respectively) |
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Feb 1 2014, 02:51 PM
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#95
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Feb 1 2014, 08:55 PM
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#96
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QUOTE(acefreakz @ Feb 1 2014, 07:20 PM) http://www.shinecars.com.sgI went Singapore and directly cod with Jeremy. I believe he have postage as well which isn't too expensive |
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Feb 1 2014, 08:59 PM
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#97
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Feb 2 2014, 03:31 AM
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#98
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QUOTE(CoffeeDude @ Feb 2 2014, 01:27 AM) ultimate liquid wax? or the ultimate quik wax? (i'm using both)and also the poorboy's glaze, not to mention my car is mostly parked indoors, and mostly being a "weekend drive". so my durability feedback would be a bit biased/skewered |
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Feb 3 2014, 05:16 PM
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Feb 3 2014, 11:21 PM
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#100
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QUOTE(scoutfai @ Feb 3 2014, 08:35 PM) Agree with your concern but I think no need over worry. People who sends to road side wash using unknown cap ayam tire dressing also do not complain any cracking I do not think people like us who use established brand product will get our ass kicked faster than them. this should be good enough, and considering i prefer low treadwear/soft compound tires for better NVH/grip, accompanied with my aggressive driving, well yeah. chances are the treads will be gone before my sidewall shows any cracking much less puncturing |
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