True....but I wonder whether they're the same product since it's under EnviroShield and ES=Maddetailer.

I'm talking about this one:

http://www.maddetailer.com/product-categor...ss-coating.html

Without getting too technical....I wash in a straight line....

Not available.

'Red' marks? hrrmm....sounds like went into the primer already....it won't polish out & need to respray.

Anything from any of the established brands like Meguiars, Duragloss, Optimum, 3M, Mothers, Soft99, etc...etc...etc...

If you wash the pad, you should be ok to use the pad again with any product. Been doing that and don't notice any significant/major issues.

Wahh....so easy to be 'lift from the paint surface' and 'wash away'.....doesn't sound to be a very durable product to me. Anyway, haven't tried their latest Diamond or Platinum 'coating', but I've tried the [for the sake of me can't remember what it's called back then] quite a few years back. Couldn't get it to last more than 2 weeks in Klang Valley's weather. Maybe it's my method but, even applying it straight (without diluting) it still couldn't get past the 1 month mark without the beading going *almost* flat. But, I have to say, it's a really easy product (back then) when you'd only need to dilute it with water and use it after a wash (like a QD) to keep the beading going....though that would mean RM1xx worth of product finished in less than one year....OCWax lasted longer (and looks better) for me so I switched to that afterwards.

I still see M85 & M83 selling at one of the authorised Meg supplier. M105/M101 & M205 is currently the most popular pair. I'm able to tackle *almost* anything with those two, from removing sanding marks to finishing. The only exception (for me) would be finishing hologram free on very soft paint with M205...still just can't get it right (referring to using them with a rotary polisher).

Not sure whether you can get the OC or CQuartz locally, but I'm sure you can can get DDJ Infinity Sealant from the DDJ Malaysia and I 'heard' that it's currently selling at a reduced price...just had a brief TT with him a couple of days ago while picking up a few stuffs from him....

Erm...get in touch with him in fb la. Nice guy to deal and chat with. If it does matter, personally, he's a trusted seller....well....at least by me la.

They've close down.

Depending on what are you're trying to strip. Megs M205 would require something a little bit stronger dilution than that. Some AIOs (like DG501) are also quite strong. My regular mix is at 25% for wax/sealant application and 50% for coating application. Just a side note: multiple applications of weaker mix is better/safer than single application of stronger mix.

The foam for the LC backing plate (rotary) have quite a list of failures, I personally had 3 of them disintegrated and crumbled and I don't even do any commercial details (i.e. no heavy use). Not sure about the DA ones though. Personally, I'd go for Notty's just for that reason only.....

They're the hard, thick and dense type of foam....deteriorate over time...even if not used. Check with Hendry@Osren. He has the LC ones. Not sure if anybody I know of got the Notty...best bet would be to ask Kah Wai as he's quite close to Jeremy@Shinecars.

Nice finish....great start...I love dripping wet black coloured car. The thing about the Bosch ROB//LC Orange//UC is you'd need quite a few passes to remove deeper defects like water spot etchings, bird poo etchings and scratches. Not to worry cuz sometimes, even with a rotary, you'd need more than one pass for them. 9 hrs is not bad to finish doing 2 steps on one whole car with the Bosch. It would have taken me 2 days.....

Yes, you can go with speed 4 or even 5. Personally, I'd go for higher speed for compounding (and to answer your second question) to compensate for the light pressure so that the pad will keep spinning (not bogging down). The newer compounds and polishes (like UC & UP) will still work even with light pressure, albeit slower and requires more passes. And, like you mentioned, exerting more pressure would slow down the spinning (and even bog it down - not spinning at all), hence reducing the ability to correct. So, you're better off using light pressure with higher speed....more efficient that way. For the polishes (like UP), work using 'zenith' method - 1 pass at slower speed (2) to spread the product, a couple of passes at higher speed (4~5) to work then finally another pass with slow speed again (2~3) with *almost* no pressure (only weight of the machine) to 'refine' the finish. Just to give you a rough idea of the speed of your arm movement, a typical single 'pass' (eg. going one round horizontal then another round vertically) for 2' x 2' area would take around 2~3 minutes or so with the UP. Plenty of video online on how 'fast' your movement should be when using a DA and the same could apply when using an ROB like the Bosch.

Also, do take note that having the face of the pad not evenly flat on the panel (eg. tilting a little) would also slow down/stop the pad from rotating (and sometime it would even spin in the other direction), so you'd have to play around with the angle you're holding the machine to maintain the spinning.

Just a suggestion, for defects at isolated areas (small areas) or spot corrections (eg. scratches, bird poo, etc.) you could first try removing the defect using the UC by hand with a cloth or applicator, then only go over the area again with the Bosch. Using the UC by hand and with point load pressure (palm or finger/fingers) would be more aggressive and remove the defect quicker, furthermore you'd only be 'cutting' the AFFECTED AREA and avoid unnecessary 'cutting' of unaffected areas.

CCS - got something like 'dimples', suppose to 'hold' polishes better and longer instead of being absorbed into the foam. Mainly meant for DA use.
Flat - normal foam
CCS curved - CCS but the face is curved/convex, can't remember what's the 'supposed' advantage.
Hydro - stiffer, denser than normal foam. Supposed to keep the polishes longer on the surface. Meant for the 'newer' water based polishes.

Personally, I'm not bothered with LC pads except for the normal flat ones. I have them all and haven't touched them for ages and ALL my CCS pads aren't usable anymore - crumbled and disintegrated....except for the flat ones...

Megs on the right track for this one. Unless you're into super duper serious commercial detailing and doing all kind of cars with different type of paint hardness/softness/sensitiveness(?), all you'd need is just 3 levels of aggressiveness - cutting, polishing and finishing/waxing. You won't notice any major differences in aggresivenes in, say, the different cutting pads that LC produce, especially with a DA...maybe on a rotary but not much with a DA. I'd suggest you should concentrate more on the quality of the foam/pad. Now that, i can assure you, would make a whole lot of difference, even with a DA.

Btw, i think the picture there is the hydro pads, can't say for sure but i think LC traditional flat pads are more rounded at the edges. Maybe you should have a little Q&A chat session with Jeremy....he's in the kaki group