I concur with the idea of 'bake under the Sun' method with any waxes/sealants/coatings. Not sure why (most probably because it helps the curing process), but performance and durability spiked every time I do this.

You should. Actually, I found this out the 'Einstein' way....hehehe....

Actually, quite a few years ago our 'Grand Master' of Detailing did mention about this but it never occurred to me the difference would be that pronounced until I 'accidentally' tried it myself.

But if you mean applying -> baking -> applying -> baking....then you *might* be faced with a little problem of dust collecting and settling on the surface though.....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: May 30 2014, 04:39 PM

Osren Bubble & Wax

WEEKLY - wash + UQD/UQW (Ultimate Quick Detailer/Ultimate Quick Wax)
MONTHLY - Cleaner Wax + Tech Wax
QUARTERLY - Clay + Cleaner Wax + Tech Wax
ANNUALLY - Clay + polish + Tech Wax OR send to pro for polish & wax

Do the 1st one properly, you might not need to do the 2nd one monthly.
Do the 1st & 2nd one properly, you might not need to do the 3rd one quarterly.
Do the 1st, 2nd & 3rd one properly, you might not need to do the 4th one annually.

Confused yet.....???

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jun 4 2014, 11:25 AM

Not the Megs Cleaner Wax....that one don't have abrasive. It's just a 'chemical cleaner'. SwirlX, ScratchX, Ultimate Polish, etc...those are Megs products that contain abrasives...

Which plastic? Interior plastics or exterior trim? Please note that scratched means the plastic is damaged. You cannot 'clean' damages. You can only 'cut' or remove the surrounding plastics to get it to the same level as the depth of the scratch. A good illustration is like when you scratch wood with a nail. You'd need to sand and level that area to 'remove' the scratch. Same thing with paint. But the difference between paint and plastic is that most plastic surfaces are normally textured and, after 'cutting', the surface would be smooth.

ONR for wash or clay lube - OK
DG431 is actually a light degreaser, not an APC. You can treat it as an APC but just be careful ya...you might degrease those parts of the car that require grease....such as door hinges, etc.
UC - anything to follow up after UC & before PBA or OS? There's a reason why Megs designed (and recommend) to use the UP (Ultimate Polish) after using UC. Might be a good idea if you do a little bit more reading up on those two.
PBA before OS - request: could you try a small section straight away using OS without PBA? Had never tried this combo before and would be interested to know if OS is compatible with PBA.
TC after OS - TC does make the paint look shinier, but OS has superior beading and sheeting. Maybe you should try half a section (or 50/50) the other way around, just to see which one performs better or more to your liking.

With PlasX, you might be able to remove the scuff, but not sure about the scratch though....

No I don't....well....not the blue one....the green maybe but not the blue....

You'd need to do another round of rinsing after using DG431...you can't use it as a 'no rinse'...it'll leave 'chemicals' behind that *could* be detrimental to the paintwork.

PBA's use is to 'help' bonding. I don't know the details on how it does that but I've tried it with DG105, Zaino, Menzerna Power Lock, Megs NXT, Megs M21....and a few other 'liquid' sealants' and, to a certain extent, it does work (lets just say that they're compatible). Though I also have Opt Optiseal, Zaino Clear Seal and EnvisoShield it never occured to me to try these type of wipe-on-walk-away sealants with the PBA.

If you have any type of polish with you (any brand would do as long as it's not a wax), do a test spot right next to your rear bonnet and see whether the colour matching improve or not. That's the only way to know.

Like haushinka said. If you don't have anything with you and you plan to send to shop for polishing, might as well go to one of the shop and ask them to try first. If you want to try yourself first, you can try soft99 Meta Clean, cheap & effective for what its worth. But if you plan to do properly yourself, go with a branded product. If your budget permits, i would suggest Megs 'twin' - Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. Duraloss 501 is also good, and even after you sent your car elsewhere for polishing, you can use it for maintenance later on. A 'normal' polishing job can cost anywhere between around RM150 to RM350, depending on quality you're looking for. Better ones can cost more than that and i wouldn't recomment those places that would do it for anything less than RM100....unless you trust the guy.

Might have been too late to response, but that's one of the better shampoo and the price is quite decent. I like the shampoo as well.

*YAWWNN* Back frm a little 'away-time' from active fb/chat/forum/etc. Wassup guys? Looks like you guys are having fun here. Good to see that this thread is still much alive and kicking......

One of my all time favourite tire dressing. For RM58, if you apply every week (which you won't really need to cuz it'll last longer than that - provided you apply in on CLEAN rubber), for the average OEM tire wall size, you would finish that bottle in....errr....maybe 4 ~ 5 years time.... Expensive if you consider the initial investment but, in the long run, the cheapest tire shine around (even when it is a little bit overpriced locally if compared to how much it's selling in the US).

And about the clay thingy, if can afford, I would strongly suggest using a quick detailer instead of diluted shampoo, regardless which type/brand of clay. I have tried/used quite a few types/brands of clay ranging from the cheaper PG clay to Riccarro polyclay and all of them would have some sort of problem or another if used with diluted shampoo, ranging from crumbling and leaving clay residue to severe marring of the paint, and not to mention degrading more rapidly in storage after use. Another thing to also remember when using diluted shampoo as clay lubricant is that you'd NEED TO rinse (and sometime even wash again) the whole car down again afterwards. Whereas if using a quick detailer, you don't need to and whatever residue left are easily removed when you're doing the waxing/polishing afterwards. Worst comes to worst, if you don't plan to wax/polish after claying, another round of wiping with the same quick detailer could do the job.

Saying that, if you're just using a 'cheapo' clay then it doesn't really justify a dedicated clay lub which is few times more expensive the the clay itself. But just remember one thing though, claying *could* induce damages to the paint if the lubricant used is not....well...lubricative(?) enough and it would be more expensive and more time consuming correcting the paint when damaged.

My advice is, safest way is to read the label and use whatever that is recommended there. Just remember: prevention is FAR BETTER then correction.

I think I still have few more rounds left of applications from the first bottle that I bought almost a decade ago... And I have another still unopened bottle of it that I bought a couple of years later. Last I looked it's still good...

Yup. Still that bubble-gummy sort of grape smell...

I know the feeling. I remember I finished my first Megs Quick Detailer within one month. That was why I decided to go for the gallon once I can afford one.... Maybe you can share with a few guys and buy one gallon of Megs Last Touch. Diluted at 1:1 (1 part of LT to 1 part of water) you'd get 2 gallons (that would be 3.78L x 2 = 7.56L or 7560ml) of quick detailer at the price of...errrmm...I think it's around RM150/gallon.

Use a 'sponge'. When you finished, store it in a plastic bag (something like those thick 'bungkus air' plastic). When you need to use it again, just hold the sponge from the outside and turn the plastic inside-out so that the plastic would now become a 'glove'. Whatever left on the sponge can still be use and you'd only need to add a little bit only. And best thing is - NO MORE OILY HANDS....

I think yours should be M34 Final Inspection. Smallest size for Last Touch is one gallon.

hrrrmm....curious. FI is actually my most preferred clay lub. What happened?

Last Touch is the bulk version of Megs Quick Detailer.

No I don't....refresh me....

Endurance doesn't come with an applicator. Those yellow round wax applicator would do...but try not to use the ones frm Megs. They're too soft and the foam cant take the roughness of the tyres, especially when they have been 'soften' by the gel. Any tyre applicator 'sponges' sold in the stores are fine too. Personally, there's this Kiwi shoe polish applicator that I personally like cuz it's denser than normal sponge, softer but quite durable. I like it because the dense foam makes the gel stays longer on the surface and doesn't absorb as quick, softness makes it easier to squeeze the gel out again to the surface especiallynduring application, and durable than any other foam that i've tried since 'rubbing' the sponge against the texture of the tyres do wear out the foam faster, especially when I'm trying to work the gel into/between the small letters/wordings/grooves.

And I would guess it's only suitable for gel/silicone based product that doesn't (or VERY SLOWLY) dry over time. I've never tried it with wax or polish though....can't say for sure but i don't see the point of doing it with waxes/sealants/polishes....

Wax is just for protection against the elements...something like putting on a *very* thin layer of cling wrap film over the paint. It might be able to 'mask' a little bit of the *very* fine scratches...but not by much. Further more, it's just temporary and would wear off over (a short) time. Best is to get the scratches remove by polishing and the round thing that spins is called a 'rotary polisher' Just make sure they use the right polish to REMOVE cuz some polishes are also good in 'masking' the scratches.